JOYNER JD400 BUILD THREAD (the abridged vs)

[JERSEYDEVIL]

well not sure who has seen this and who hasn't, but i figured i'd post the pics and a shortened explanation of what was going on at the time. if there are any questions along the way, feel free.
basically bought a joyner 250 in june 2012 for $800. because they're rare i figured i'd scoop it up and deal w/ come whatever may.

here's the first chapter

THE PATIENT (DONOR)

[JERSEYDEVIL]

trashed shock, missing tranny, trashed arms redrilled lug holes.......what a mess!

[JERSEYDEVIL]

i was just moving into my shop when i got this thing so to make it just a lil harder to move in i fguered i throw another dead buggy in there to work around.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

once i got moved into the shop i officially pushed this thing outside and washed it. it was officially time to prep the patient.

SURGERY

[JERSEYDEVIL]

oh and did i forget to mention the last owner welded a hub to the cv.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

the point of no return...........let the cutting begin!

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

FRONT END DESIGN/ BUILD

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[jwilson645]

Awesome project. Looks like someone welded that hub and arm with a battery and a coat hanger. You definitely have your work cut out.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

the total front end build basically took 2 months if i remember correctly. there was a lot of research reading and taking notes when i wasnt actually getting dirty. i learned so much designing this and even more after the fact.
all in all it turned out great but getting there was tough but being well read when it was done it was done. getting there just took a lot of putting stuff together, measuring, taking it apart, tweaking putting it back together and start all over again. i knew i wasnt going to use any joyner stuff and that it was all going to be done from scratch,but when all the point of reference is gone and it's your first time it can be intimidating.
the general feedback i was getting from freinds who had the joyners was that it wasnt the best turning buggy and the ride was harsh. i wanted it to turn on rails and it had to have travel. the camber change need to be correct throughout the cycle, which the joyner in stock form had none of this going for it.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

once the bulk head was made for the a-arm mounts i welded it up. upon looking at my notes , i had read a lot of articles that a 5* rake was desirable, at least that was the avg of the range between all of the reading i did. it just so happened that the difference of an inch gave me what i needed so i cut the bottom lose and wedged a piece of 1" sq tubing between the frame and the bulk head and welded it back up.
by then the steel wheels i had ordered to mock up the front end had arrived. i made some mock up arms out of 1" flat stock to try and figure out the mathmatics of what i needed. the box i made that the wheel sits on is the height of a 25" tire side wall and the extra distance to the ground relative to the frame sitting on the build cart. while the wheel is on that box that is the wheel sitting on the ground w/ a 25" tire.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

i used 2x6's to run throught the travel cycle so i could see any changes in 1 1/2" increments

[JERSEYDEVIL]

once i figured out the kingpin inclination i used the old spindles and made my tabs accordingly

[chuckorlando]

Details, it's all in the details. As you know, fine work brother

[JERSEYDEVIL]

thanks bro, i know this is "history" already. ......but it's great having you around, hahahahaha

[disstudem]

Your moving along quickly. Looking good. Details, awh yes, the details they always take the longest.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

well let me explain .... this thread is a year old at this point. it's been posted on buggynews and buggycountry while it was in progress. i realized there are alot of members here that arent on the other 2 sights so i figured id share it from start to finish to help anyone who was interested in a similar build here. it took a combined 6 months to build it.

FIRST POST IN THIS THREAD:
"well not sure who has seen this and who hasn't, but i figured i'd post the pics and a shortened explanation of what was going on at the time. if there are any questions along the way, feel free.
basically bought a joyner 250 in june 2012 for $800. because they're rare i figured i'd scoop it up and deal w/ come whatever may.

here's the first chapter"

i have been guilty of just looking at pics to which there is nothing wrong. i will post any important info especially if it applies universally.

now the "TWIN TALON" project is current and is being posted in "real time"so to say.

and thank you for the compliment.

[chuckorlando]

crosshammers, twin talon, 400 JDjoynerish, yerfasaorus ahahahahahahahaha The force is strong with this one

[JERSEYDEVIL]

Originally Posted by chuckorlando

crosshammers, twin talon, 400 JDjoynerish, yerfasaorus ahahahahahahahaha The force is strong with this one

hahahahahahaaha yes obi-wan

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

A-ARMS

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

pretty much at this point doing the math and designing the front end, using the flat stock for measurements and point of reference.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

rear a-arm mount , fab and mounting.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

cycling through the arm travel for the 1st time.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

a-arm jigging and final construction

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

cycling the arms for the first time!

[JERSEYDEVIL]

because at this point i was getting about no camber change through the whole cycle and though i thought that that might be perfect, i decided to try something and make new tab mounts the entire height of the bulkhead so i could make the arm mounts adjustable/tunable for different settings. i drilled holes through the entire front mounts and did the same to the rears , which were already welded on. this ended up working great. i ended up lowering the uppers 1 hole down , which gave me the camber change i read i was looking for.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

that was the slight camber change at full bump i was looking for

[jwilson645]

Man, this is an awesome build! Love all the suspension tech too. Seriously thinking about doing something like this on our Yerf since it needs a front re-do anyway.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

the next thing i realized was that the arms being "v" shaped the heims had to be at a certain position for the arms to line up w/ the mount holes. this was limiting for adjustment. i came up w/ a solution by cutting the upper arms and making an adjustable "dog bone" leg. the mount side w/ a heim and the arm side i made a solid rod end til i could find or have some precision made. this not only made the mounting alignment easier but gave me full caster adjust-ability and some additional camber adjustment.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

friended up w/ a dude at the shop next door, a socket screw shop.
they make 1 piece bolts and screw for the military......HMMMMMM, MILITARY GRADE ROD ENDS!
this is what he made me.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

i had just set up my bender at this point and had gotten my hands on some tube so i thought i would break the ice and bend the main hoop just to break the monotony of all the front end work i had just done

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

got lucky and nailed it on the 1st try

[JERSEYDEVIL]

from there i bent what could be called the "dash" hoop.
then i cut off the hub the PO welded on to the axle and removed the trailing arms.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]

REMOVABLE FOOT CONTROLS:
because everything was getting centered because of the switch to a single seater i had to relocate all of the controls and steering. i figured it would be cool, convenient and easier to fabricate to make a removable foot pedalboard.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

[JERSEYDEVIL]