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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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carb problem need help
ok her it is i have a yerf dog 150cc howitt engine go kart. and the carb is doing weird things its getting gas but the gas isnt going into the engine its going out towards the air filter hose is there a way that i can fix that ive cleaned the carb and put it back together a couple of times and its doing what i said so if anybody out there can please help me i would really appritiate anybodys help
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#2
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How do you know it is going to the air cleaner? Just by looking at the air cleaner?
If you can see it there, it is probably loading up (i.e. flooding). Have you recently replaced any of the vaccuum lines? The reason I ask is the last time I saw one do this and it NOT be a float problem, they had the pcv line going back into the carb vent bowl and it was pressurizing the carb thus fuel was spilling everywhere. That said, was it ever running? If so, what has changed between the last time it was running and the time that it started giving you a hard time? |
#3
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no its not loading up its like its not going into the engine, no i havent changed any of the vacuums, the last time it was running this only hapend once so far i got it running and gave it full throtle and it wouldnt even move but after a will of trying to start it it stopped doing that and then i turned it off to go walk my dog and when i came back to start it it would start its like the gas is going through the carb but not into the area it needs to and gas isnt leaking out eather
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#4
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Ok. you have to narrow down what is going on. Either use carb cleaner or ether (starting fluid) and give it a shot down the carb and see if it starts. If it does, then you do in fact have an issue in lack of fuel. You have to start there to verify that you in fact have a fuel issue. If it runs for a few and shuts off, then you need to verify that you have fuel coming out of the fuel line to the carb. If it does, you thn need to go back in that carb and look at the jets.
Check to see if it runs with starting fluid or carb cleaner and then report back. |
#5
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the carb is getting fuel its like the fuel is not going the right way if your looking at the back of the go cart you take of the air filter hose the big one and look and start it that way first its comeing out at me its not going into the engine
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#6
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You see it running out or is it flat out spraying at you? Also, does it run under any conditions right now?
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#7
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i will try the carb cleaner tommorrow it wont start at all right now but i can tell you this though when its started its just fine it idles it runs good its just the carbs gas is comeing out at me but ill try the carb cleaner
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#8
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no it doesnt run right now the engine itself isnt geting any gas and its spraying out at me
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#9
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ok. report back what happens with the carb cleaner
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#10
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ok talk to you tommorrow
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#11
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ok it had nothing to do with the carb the skid plate on the timing chain came off and messed up the timeing
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#12
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That was going to be on my list of things to check as your timing going off with cause it to spit at you however that would be way down my list. Rare to have that happen.
Glad you got that figured out! |
#13
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but the skid plate for the timeing chain keeps slip timeing slipping to the side of the timing chain causing it to come off time and my dad made a thing for the tensioner but all that does it puts a little more tension on it but it kind of helps but the chain will probably keep coming off time is it possible to take a link off of the timeing chain and how mutch does it cost for a new starter for a 150cc howitt engine because my dad took the last start out of it before i could ride it again now i have to ether get a new starter or try to get one from some good person or someting
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#14
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Something doesn't seem right. I've never seen one get that bad to where it slips to the side. The tensioner might actually be bad on it.
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#15
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If the cam tensioner is out all the way and cannot be pushed in by hand, the pad is not gone the tensioner probably is not the problem. I would be careful on modifying it to work cause if it comes apart you could chuck the engine. If there are a lot of hours on it and especially if it has been run low on oil,or your pump is weak and not pumping enough to the top the chain can be streched.Removing a link is not wise cause if the chain is streached it is weak and if it gives out at high rpm's there goes the upper end.I would first make sure your getting plenty of oil on top. If so I would replace the timming chain, guides, and tensioner and you should be back in business. What would cost you $50-$70 now will cost much more if that chain breaks and the valves hit the piston at high rpm. Now your talking in addition a head and cylinder assy.I have built several engines that people have tried to do cheap fixes on and its 2-3 times more costly or more than if they fixed it right the first time.When the part wears beyond specs you have to replace it. TOM
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#16
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I have the same kart, and have the same problem with the carb not delivering gas. Can you explain what you recommend for me to fix this problem exactly.
__________________
Sheckells MAV#29 |
#17
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carb trouble
Really need more info for your problem.Did you check valve lash, timing ect. Many things can be the cause of any problem and since the buggy is not right in front of us it is hard to answer such a generalised question.When did the problem begin. What have you done. Did it just start or was it right after a mod was done. The more info we have the better we can isolate as where to start. TOM
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#18
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I also have carb problems or somthing else, the problem I'm having is the buggy starts fine and idles fine but when I go throttle it up it starts missing and spitting back through carb, I just put on new stator and cleaned carb, i was wondering could this be from lack of spark or do I have carb problems?
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#19
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It is also running rich I adjusted air/fuel mixture scew but no change, I bought the buggy used so I don't know what size jet is in the carb.
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#20
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When you first start it ,does it run ok? If so I would pull the choke and check it. How do you know it is running rich? Have you looked at the spark plug? What color is it? What color is the spark? Have you checked your valve adjustment? Have you checked to see if the two wires going to the coil are tight? Have you checked compression? Any of the mentioned things can cause problems. Why was the stater replaced? You really need to check all these things and give more detailed information. Since you purchased this used it could be any of several problems. Was it like this when you bought it, or did it just start. The more info you give the better we can trouble shoot it.You don't want to just guess at it and be replacing parts you don't need. Someone can come on here and tell you theirs done the same thing and they replaced the carb, so you replace the carb and it does not fix it. You have just spent money for nothing. Also what buggy do you have and what engine is in it? Give us detailed information and I'm sure well have you going in no time. and if there is something you don't know how to check just ask and we shall tell you how to do it. Or you can give me a call on monday or PM me and I'll be more than happy to help, however it is easier over the phone. Also where are you located? TOM 662-301-1563
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#21
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My initial impression is you have a jetting problem. I'll tell you that if you have a clogged main it will spit and sputter when you start getting into it and also if you have too large a pilot jet it will spit and sputter as it tries to move from the idle/low circuit to the main jet.
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#22
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My buggy starts fine and idles fine but thats about it, I could start it up and let it idle all day, but as soon as I try to throttle it up thats when the trouble starts, I think its running rich from black smoke coming from exaust when trying to rev it up, the plug is black, also I haven't checked valves or compression, I replaced stator because it stopped running and would not get fire so I checked for current coming from power and trigger wire , wasn't getting any so I replaced the stator and it fired right up but now I'm having this probs.
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#23
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you've described what happens when people use a drill bit to clean out a pilot jet thus widening it too much.
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#24
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Is it even possible to use a drill bit to widen a jet without going too far?
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#25
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if it was drilled out I didn't do it
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#26
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Did you buy the buggy used?
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#27
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yes it was used
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#28
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They may have to done a red neck re jet to it.
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#29
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but it ran ok befor the whole stator change
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#30
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I forgot about that.
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#31
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i'll probably give Tom a call tommorrow
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#32
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Since it started when you changed the stator, I would narrow it down to the electrical system, but where in the electric system?
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#33
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Does anyone know where I can get a manual choke for my 150 cc gy6 hammerhead?
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#34
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since it ran good before the dtator, I would double check the wireing coming from the stator. I have the manual chokes but need to make sure what the problem is
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#35
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I wouldn't just go replacing random parts until I know what the problem is.
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#36
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its probably just a bad connection at the stator
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#37
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Pull the plug again, connect plug wire to it, ground threaded part of plug to valve cover and turn engine over to see what color the spark is. If it is blue, spark is good. As far as the choke goes, here is a breif explaination of how it works. When the engine is cold the enrichment needle is retracted allowing fuel thru the enrichment jet. As the engine runs and 12 volts is supplied to the enrichment valve this heats the valve causing the needle to extend blocking off the enrichment jet. If when you start the engine it runs fine than progressively gets worse as engine heats up I would than suspect the choke to be bad. To check you would pull the enrichment valve and connect to 12 volts and watch that the needle extends the entire travel. If your spark is good make sure you have no vacume leak at the intake. This will cause a no change when adjusting the air fuel screw. The intake could have developed a crack when you removed the carb, or the sealing o-ring could be broken, and or cracked insulater. Once you have determined a no leak vacume than I would check the needle /seat for leakage and the float level. When the kart is first started and the choke is enriching you will have a rich plug reading. Try taking it on a run at full throttle popping spitting and all for about 1/4 mile at full throttle than without letting off throttle shut down engine never letting foot off throttle until engine stops, than pull the plug to read it. If it is white/ lean than chances are very good you have a vacume leak. You will also want to check the valve adjustment setting both intake and exhaust to .003-.005. Give me a call if problem still exists. TOM
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#38
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any way you can do a video and show us what it is doing?
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#39
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Vi-de-o, vi-de-o, vi-de-o. I'm chanting video in case you can't tell. LOL
__________________
-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#40
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hey guys I think I narrowed it down to the carb, my needle diaphragm is not letting enough air in , its almost touching the bottom when you look up in the carb. I took out the diaphragm and it appears in good condition, even up against a light no holes visible anyone know what would cause this, by the way the reason I know its not working right is that when its running and I have the breather cover off , if I take a screw driver and manually raise the diaphragm and give it gas at the same time it goes full throttle if I let the diaphragm go I starts spitting and sputtering again.
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#41
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check the vacumn line going to the air shut off valve on the side of the card. also pull that cover off and check that diaphram. and the spring on the top between the top plate of the carb and the big slide diaphram
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#42
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the diaphram on the side has cracks and the rubber is pilling off, I bet thats my problem, so do you think its probably time for a new carb ?
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#43
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not just for that. I can look and see about getting the small diaphram. you could go with a 30mm pumper if you want to change to a bigger carb
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