How hard would it be, or is it even possible???

[liduno]

I'm just wondering if you didn't hurt performance by removing the electric choke.
If not done properly you could be running way too rich once the engine warms up.

[The Blind Man]

Originally Posted by liduno

I'm just wondering if you didn't hurt performance by removing the electric choke.
If not done properly you could be running way too rich once the engine warms up.

========================
Have the electric choke back on, i was more curious as if i could do it or not, with everyone's help here i will get it dialed in... Am also curious to see what the performance cdi will do (should be here friday) Thanks...Bob

[The Blind Man]

This S.O.B. was running fine but i can not stop messing with it... Plugged in a Performance Cdi and now it runs like crap... Electric choke is back on ...Thanks Bob

[SYCARMS]

Have you done a compression check, have you checked the valve lash. Sorry if these questions are redundant, I haven't read thru all the posts so this may have been answered already. This is important to know because if you are low on compression due to either misadjusted valves or worn rings, the buggy won't run right no matter what parts you throw at it until the main problem is repaired. You have to be certain the engine is sound first. It has to have compression 150psi plus. 130 psi and below and it will never run right until compression is restored. You need spark, check the color, it should be blue. White, yellow, or orange are all weak, you need a blue spark. You need the correct metered air/fuel mixture or it will not run right. When I buy a used buggy before I do anything I'll make sure compression is adequate, next if not running I will make sure it is getting fuel and has a good spark. You will want to check the intake for any vacuum leaks for this will cause a lean mixture. Go to Americansportworks.com and download the engine service manual for the 7150 buggy. This manual will give you all necessary information for you to check and troubleshoot your problem. The manual is very detailed. Once you have a well running stock engine then you work on building more performance. There is only ONE way to build more performance and that is by installing the parts which will directly introduce more air and fuel into the cylinder. The head, cam, along with a less restricted air intake and exhaust are the most important. Big bore kits, Perf. CDI's, iridium plug, hot coil and CVT mods will only enhance the performance of the head and cam mods. Alone without these other mods will due absolutely nothing with the exception of the CVT. On a stock engine CVT mods basically rob Peter to pay Paul, for the mods will increase the low end torque but top end will suffer. Once you build more power into the motor the CVT mods will make for bettering the engines power curve thus moving this additional power in a range to most satisfy four type of driving.

[The Blind Man]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Have you done a compression check, have you checked the valve lash. Sorry if these questions are redundant, I haven't read thru all the posts so this may have been answered already. This is important to know because if you are low on compression due to either misadjusted valves or worn rings, the buggy won't run right no matter what parts you throw at it until the main problem is repaired. You have to be certain the engine is sound first. It has to have compression 150psi plus. 130 psi and below and it will never run right until compression is restored. You need spark, check the color, it should be blue. White, yellow, or orange are all weak, you need a blue spark. You need the correct metered air/fuel mixture or it will not run right. When I buy a used buggy before I do anything I'll make sure compression is adequate, next if not running I will make sure it is getting fuel and has a good spark. You will want to check the intake for any vacuum leaks for this will cause a lean mixture. Go to Americansportworks.com and download the engine service manual for the 7150 buggy. This manual will give you all necessary information for you to check and troubleshoot your problem. The manual is very detailed. Once you have a well running stock engine then you work on building more performance. There is only ONE way to build more performance and that is by installing the parts which will directly introduce more air and fuel into the cylinder. The head, cam, along with a less restricted air intake and exhaust are the most important. Big bore kits, Perf. CDI's, iridium plug, hot coil and CVT mods will only enhance the performance of the head and cam mods. Alone without these other mods will due absolutely nothing with the exception of the CVT. On a stock engine CVT mods basically rob Peter to pay Paul, for the mods will increase the low end torque but top end will suffer. Once you build more power into the motor the CVT mods will make for bettering the engines power curve thus moving this additional power in a range to most satisfy four type of driving.

============================
L do have a compression tester (it plugs in where the plug goes right?) you have given me something to go on as far as to where the compression needs to be...If it is low compression What do i do? am so frustrated right now... it was running ok if i get it back to that stage again i will have two options to think about 1. running ok i will feel no guilt in selling it to someone and i will tell them the things i have encountered ... 2. we like this buggy and i see 175cc new engines for around $650...Will the 175 cc fit on there without me spending more then what i paid for the engine and tranny new? Thanks... Bob ...going to try the compression test now

[SYCARMS]

Make sure when doing the compression test you have the throttle wide open. If reading is low use an oil can with engine oil and give it 2-3 squirts of oil. Redo your test, if compression rises the problem is worn rings, if it stays the same the problem is in the valves which may need adjustment. If you download the manual I mentioned last post it will relieve much of the frustration since you will have all sorts of info at your fingertips making it easier to troubleshoot. Last, know what your buying, many will make false claims either out of ignorance or just plain greed. Whenever you buy used you also buy the problem. You have to be patient and work thru it. Money alone fixes nothing, money and knowledge ( mostly knowledge) fixes anything. Download that manual and read thru it, it's free unless you print it off than it will only cost the paper and ink it takes to print.

[The Blind Man]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Make sure when doing the compression test you have the throttle wide open. If reading is low use an oil can with engine oil and give it 2-3 squirts of oil. Redo your test, if compression rises the problem is worn rings, if it stays the same the problem is in the valves which may need adjustment. If you download the manual I mentioned last post it will relieve much of the frustration since you will have all sorts of info at your fingertips making it easier to troubleshoot. Last, know what your buying, many will make false claims either out of ignorance or just plain greed. Whenever you buy used you also buy the problem. You have to be patient and work thru it. Money alone fixes nothing, money and knowledge ( mostly knowledge) fixes anything. Download that manual and read thru it, it's free unless you print it off than it will only cost the paper and ink it takes to print.

=================
I like your reply and it makes sense... The compression test i will have to wait until my son comes over ( i can not read what it says)...After dinner tonight i will download that manual... Thanks...Boob

[The Blind Man]

Update on my go kart....Thanks to everyone here i have it running steady and stable ... It is doing about 30 mph but it is getting to that point much faster then when i first got it... One time i got it to go up to 35 mph but have never been able to duplicate that... I am happy with the way it starts and runs, therefore i will leave that one alone... Now the other day i was bored and wound up buying a new Roketa Pro Cyclone MCR-74 y 150cc scooter, I should have it at my door within 10 days... I am kind of excited about this it looks like a nice little scooter and it should work out fine for when i have to go to the store or anywhere close around where i live... I am going to follow the directions on breaking it in correctly so it should last a while (i hope)... My question is this... Should i use synthetic oil from the beginning? I have never ridden one and do not know how it picks up speed (hopefully not like the go kart)... Should i do the "orange CDI" which i will buy from an authorized vendor on here... The UNI filter did help out the go kart with this one being new should i just leave it alone?... Should i get the expensive spark plug for it?... I guess basically what i would like to know is should i "break it in" with the factory stuff on it first or should i get this stuff first and break it in with that already on it and if i do put this stuff on it will it void out the "very limited" warranty that comes with it....Thanks... Bob

[SYCARMS]

First off I would not change anything on the engine until the warranty expires. As far as break-in goes, you want about 1 hour riding time on the oil it comes with. The first hour should be minimum idle time and 90% driving without ever going over 3/4 throttle but at the same time don't drive at a constant speed ( throttle, letup, throttle, let up). After the first hour drain oem oil while warm. Refill with a non detergent 30w 0r 40w oil (strait weight). Run this oil in same manner as above for about 3 hours (don't have to be all at once). Again drain while warm than refill with a quality 10W40 V-twin or ATV oil. These are designed for air cooled engines which run much warmer than a water cooled engine. I personally prefer 100% synthetic oil but any high quality oil will be sufficient. Many will drive a new vehicle like the stole it and never have a problem that they know of with it. However by breaking it in properly the rings will seat much better giving you the maximum compression which means more power and more efficiency, also the cam and its followers will seat much better.

[The Blind Man]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

First off I would not change anything on the engine until the warranty expires. As far as break-in goes, you want about 1 hour riding time on the oil it comes with. The first hour should be minimum idle time and 90% driving without ever going over 3/4 throttle but at the same time don't drive at a constant speed ( throttle, letup, throttle, let up). After the first hour drain oem oil while warm. Refill with a non detergent 30w 0r 40w oil (strait weight). Run this oil in same manner as above for about 3 hours (don't have to be all at once). Again drain while warm than refill with a quality 10W40 V-twin or ATV oil. These are designed for air cooled engines which run much warmer than a water cooled engine. I personally prefer 100% synthetic oil but any high quality oil will be sufficient. Many will drive a new vehicle like the stole it and never have a problem that they know of with it. However by breaking it in properly the rings will seat much better giving you the maximum compression which means more power and more efficiency, also the cam and its followers will seat much better.

===============================
Thank you for the reply back, i have always had new cars and always broke them in hard from the beginning and it seemed to work fine, then again i never kept a car with more then 30k miles on it as they all have been leased vehicles... As i have been reading the "quality" on these Chinese scooters have improved quite a bit in the last ten years, so i am going to follow the break in schedule on it and follow your advise on it, who knows i may keep this one for a while... Thanks... Bob