Running rich need little advise

[tkeagle]

I got the FL 350. I could tell it was running rich when looked at it, but not this rich. It take me or someone else to depress the gas down 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, to get it to start. I let it warm up for about 5 mins, but still wont stay started unless I keep giving it gas, if not then dies. Also when I rev up the engine, seems like it takes forever to get up in the higher RPM range. Checked the spark plug, and it black. even wet black.

I took off the carb. But some reason couldn't get the choke to come out from the top of the carb. Thought maybe there was a way to get to it inside, but there wasn't. So dis assemble it and cleaned it all real good. Float, all the jets. When I looked at the bowl, the last person that took the carb apart looked as if they used some kind of white seal on the bowl. The O ring looked a little warn, but not bad. But just incase sealed with some gasket maker to ensure wasn't going to leak.

When bought this, came with some extra Rims, and tires. Set of paddle tires, front and back. Also came with box of extra stuff. Some replacement parts, new cable still in its bag. and old choke, some engine parts, head, new piston still in the box. And a set of Jets. So appeared the 1st owner knew something about the buggy.

after cleaning the carb. I fired it up. Still needed to give gas before it would start. But with the air filter off I can clearly see gas shooting from the front of the carb. So it running really rich. Since it seems that the choke has been replaced before. Could the choke be stuck, and cutting off the air? As rich as it's running, I don't see what carb. adjustment could give to lean it up enough. Maybe float or jets? But since the owner (I'm guessing, had an idea ) what they was doing, I don't see them saleing it running that way.

If choke is stuck open, or part way, would it act like I described?
any thoughts would be helpful. Carb looks like its in good shape. but could be wrong.
Thanks

[liduno]

I hate to say this but it sounds like you might have taken the carb apart for no reason. You may have just needed a spark plug, 2 strokes will run like ass with even a slightly fouled plug.

I hope you went very light with the sealer on the bowl gasket. One little piece of rtv in a main jet could cost you an engine.

Can you take a picture of the choke? They are usually pretty straight forward.

[x-bird]

Don't rule out float needle and seat. gas shooting up sounds like something's on the seat or the needle is worn. White crud may be aluminum corrosion buildup around the o-ring. i see it on just about every 5+ year old carb i take the bowl off of.

[tkeagle]

Just posting this pic real quick while on computer. A aftermarket gas tank was installed. I dont see anything wrong with stock gas tank, and its big enough for what we use it for. Want to put the Steel gas tank on the YD. But the set up is wierd to me. From the steel gas tank, has hoses out from the top of it. Then connects to the top of the stock gas tank. The other line goes to a fuel pump. From the stock fuel tank, it connects to the fuel pump also. The fuel pump connects to a hose that runs below the engine. Not sure what it connects to. Basicly go 2 hoses coming out of both tanks. one line connects the 2 gas tanks together. The other lines goes to a fuel pump. However, the only gas line connecting to the carb is the line coming out of steel gas tank, and is gravity feed. Is this some sort of duel tank setup? And how would I convert it to the stock gas tank?

[tkeagle]

Yes. I used very little seal. And tried to keep it outside of o ring much as possible.
Its a kiehin carb. Something like that. Slide carb. On the bottom of the float needle was black. Couldn't get it off. So thought maybe was made that way? First time opened this type of carb. And first time I saw a black float needle.

So maybe that could be issue?
I'll get a pick of carb later today. But when was cleaning it up, I couldn't find any #'s on it. I don't know what size or model it is. So not sure how I would buy a rebuild kit for it. The carb looks like and is built the same as mink I carb. The choke is off to the side. Comes out of the top. I worked on a mink I almost just like it. Was a 2 stroke also. Once I got the nut off. The choke just slide straight out. This one would not. The cable for the choke seems not to be setting in correctly. I set the cable back into the carb much as I could. Then took tape to keep in places. It tends to want to slide up and out of its seat. It did seem to run better once I did that. The rpm was going up much quicker. But still would not stay at idle without giving it gas. But was close. I did try to set up idle. But no good. Still couldn't get it to start or run on its own without giving gas.
Spark plug will get replaced today. The old plug was warn and lightly pitted on the end.

Don't think pulling a carb and give it a good cleaning is waste of time. Not knowing when last time was cleaned, I would have done it, if even running perfect. . Outside of carb looked like was dipped in oil and dirt thrown on it. Inside was pretty clean.

[liduno]

Originally Posted by tkeagle

Just posting this pic real quick while on computer. A aftermarket gas tank was installed. I dont see anything wrong with stock gas tank, and its big enough for what we use it for. Want to put the Steel gas tank on the YD. But the set up is wierd to me. From the steel gas tank, has hoses out from the top of it. Then connects to the top of the stock gas tank. The other line goes to a fuel pump. From the stock fuel tank, it connects to the fuel pump also. The fuel pump connects to a hose that runs below the engine. Not sure what it connects to. Basicly go 2 hoses coming out of both tanks. one line connects the 2 gas tanks together. The other lines goes to a fuel pump. However, the only gas line connecting to the carb is the line coming out of steel gas tank, and is gravity feed. Is this some sort of duel tank setup? And how would I convert it to the stock gas tank?

Simply remove the second tank and run the line that went to the second tank to the carb.

The line that runs from the pump to the engine is what pulses the pump and makes it work. It's connected to the crankcase.

[liduno]

Originally Posted by tkeagle

Yes. I used very little seal. And tried to keep it outside of o ring much as possible.
Its a kiehin carb. Something like that. Slide carb. On the bottom of the float needle was black. Couldn't get it off. So thought maybe was made that way? First time opened this type of carb. And first time I saw a black float needle.

So maybe that could be issue?
I'll get a pick of carb later today. But when was cleaning it up, I couldn't find any #'s on it. I don't know what size or model it is. So not sure how I would buy a rebuild kit for it. The carb looks like and is built the same as mink I carb. The choke is off to the side. Comes out of the top. I worked on a mink I almost just like it. Was a 2 stroke also. Once I got the nut off. The choke just slide straight out. This one would not. The cable for the choke seems not to be setting in correctly. I set the cable back into the carb much as I could. Then took tape to keep in places. It tends to want to slide up and out of its seat. It did seem to run better once I did that. The rpm was going up much quicker. But still would not stay at idle without giving it gas. But was close. I did try to set up idle. But no good. Still couldn't get it to start or run on its own without giving gas.
Spark plug will get replaced today. The old plug was warn and lightly pitted on the end.

Don't think pulling a carb and give it a good cleaning is waste of time. Not knowing when last time was cleaned, I would have done it, if even running perfect. . Outside of carb looked like was dipped in oil and dirt thrown on it. Inside was pretty clean.

If the choke isn't operating correctly then you will have a problem. It will either not richen the mixture and that would make it difficult to start, or it will only richen the mixture and that would make it not run good when warmed up.

All of this is speculation till you get a new plug in it. I would have tried a new plug before messing with the carb.

The black part on the float needle is the seal.

[tkeagle]

Thx lid. Will try that.

[tkeagle]

Changed plug. Ran even better. Could even start without hitting gas. But was low rpm. Still spit gas out of carb at lower rpm. But did not at higher rpm. Opened up top of carb to lower the needle. Then noticed the cable going into carb. In side the carb. The throttle cable was very heavily frade. So bad I couldn't get cable out of carb. Had to cut it. Also, while doing this, the needle fell into my hand. Got top half of carb apart. The clip that holds the needle was loose. Pinched it so was tight again. But now half to replace the throttle cable. There was a brand new throttle cable, still in package that came with buggy. So this issue was known by previous owner.

Any hints or tips to install the new cable?

[liduno]

Glad the spark plug made it run a little better. Keep in mind that if your choke is stuck in the full on position it will foul a plug in a matter of minutes. I would do whatever it takes to make sure the choke is working properly.

[tkeagle]

Yes. I do need to make sure the choke isn't causing issues. Can I just take out the choke. And plug it some way? This time of year, won't need it in ks. From what I understand from a diagram, I have a kiehin (se). Not sure what size. That's based on the diameter on the intake side right?

[liduno]

I believe taking it out would be full rich. And yes you measure the intake side.

[tkeagle]

Please move all comments to thread "new fl 350 project".
Thx