new hammerhead project

[john.h]

i started by doing an oil change and it ended up with the engine removed and it torn apart along with the rest of the buggy. i have looked and looked but i could not find my engine code on it anywhere there isnt anything where everyone elses seems to be but there is a lot of other letters and number all over the case.
on the top right center of the case there were the numbers JL1109-19Aand JL-3
on the upper right of the case in the center of it were the numbers/letters
BGSNX 150LUV
JL1P57F
*11090388
i looked under the cvt cover on the front left of the engine and there weas nothing.
i decided to go ahead and order the top end rebuild but i want to be sure i am ordering the right size. every time i measure it with some calipers i get a different number which i have no idea how.
Also i have an internal reverse gearbox and i can not find a new gasket for it anywhere.i opened it up just messing with it because there was a very loud whirling noise and i thought it was a bearing but everything looked okay in there so i went back and looked at the gear oil that came out and it wasnt nearly what it was supposed to be so i guess thats why it was running like that. but now my gasket is in multiple pieces and i desperately need a new one.
thanks in advance, John

[Dallastx]

I have a carbide 150 with internal reverse as well. Opened it up last year thinking something was wrong. Turned out to be just a worn out drive belt. I used permatex the right stuff grey to close it up. One year later, no leaks or problems with it since. I also bought another carbide in October that was in pieces. The transmission cover had also been taken apart so the gasket was missing along with a couple of bearings. Put it back together with the same grey right stuff by permatex. That ones running great as well. Hope that helps.

[tkeagle]

I've had to use gasket maker before to replace gaskets. Just dont get crazy with it. Really not the 1st suggestion I would give. But if you cant find a gasket, it will work if properly cleaned. Just make sure you give it a good 24hrs cure before you decide to go any futher.
However, if gasket can be found, would be better.

[tkeagle]

BD does have Hammerhead Gaskets, and gasket kits. you really didnt say what type of engine it is. If you haven't looked there, you might give it a peak. And a FYI, just because it's not listed on the Website, does not mean they dont have them. So might call if you dont see it.

[john.h]

i have finally found a gasket that fits it and im nearly positive its a gy6 but there it no engine code where it says there should be. i will post pictures in a few of the numbers that i found and where at. thanks for the help though

[john.h]

i have no idea on how to put images on this same thread so i just made a new album and it has all the picures there

[john.h]

i figured out how to do it. i guess this is my engine code? if it is im still confused why its above the cvt cover

[john.h]

does anyone know what that engine code means?

[x-bird]

From various sources, all concur ...
JL, no idea, maybe manufacturer. 1= 1 cyl. P= tall head 57 = bore dia.

The F is odd, all sources, but most of them are several years old, always say Q = GY6 and MJ = 150cc.

What does the engine look like? maybe with some of the newer internal reverse and some of the more oddball mounting configurations that have been made over the past few years, there may be a new designation for some of them, because the cases are so much different at the back end.

[SYCARMS]

What year is your hammerhead?

[hhgtsplatinum]

It seems you have the same as me, it is a gy6 1P57 but it seems to be another variation. the head is a " power" head which should mean ( according to many people) that they are taller and u can't put cams on it, not true as i installed a A12 cam no problem, it has bigger valves the regular gy6 heads and ports flow a bit better. The cam that comes in it is also not bad already ( probably why they rate these at 10hp) I measured the intake lobe and came up to 26.3mm and the A12 at 27.0mm so lift barely goes up a little more then half a mil.... You should contact a hammerhead distributer so they can point you to where to get stuff for these, there are quite a bit of differences on them like the crank etc.... I heard u can't stroke these either... Sucks in some ways but nit bad in others. I will be building another regular gy6 with all the best stuff, whent this one goes i will swap it out.... Good luck

[john.h]

thanks everyone the buggy is a 2011 i ordered a top end rebuild kit that will be here wednesday i ordered a gy6 57mm hoping it should work if your saying that the engine is a little different

[john.h]

Originally Posted by x-bird

From various sources, all concur ...
JL, no idea, maybe manufacturer. 1= 1 cyl. P= tall head 57 = bore dia.

The F is odd, all sources, but most of them are several years old, always say Q = GY6 and MJ = 150cc.

What does the engine look like? maybe with some of the newer internal reverse and some of the more oddball mounting configurations that have been made over the past few years, there may be a new designation for some of them, because the cases are so much different at the back end.

i am not sure i have a picture of it all assembled still because when i removed it i had a few parts off already ill look though if i dont i will take one tomorrow

[john.h]

this is what the engine looks like sorry the pictures aren't very great i was just taking them to show someone what i was doing to the buggy

[hhgtsplatinum]

Looks just like mine, I'm m not sure if the rebuilt kit will fit it. Hope it does as I might need one one day. I actually want the bbk that brings it up to 58.5mm. But now I dont know as the studs are 3 1/8" diagonally not the 3" everyone talks about on the qmj's keep us updated

[john.h]

im really hoping that this rebuild kit fits it gets here tomorrow so i will let yall know when i try to put it together fingers crossed it fits. At first i wanted the bbk too but i really didnt want to have to bore out my crankcase so i just went for the rebuild. i saw you were talking about putting a cam on it? what would that do and what is it? is it just a different size camshaft? if its cheap and easy to do then i will look into it and what kind of results does it get? sorry for all the questions lol just trying to get em all at once

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

im really hoping that this rebuild kit fits it gets here tomorrow so i will let yall know when i try to put it together fingers crossed it fits. At first i wanted the bbk too but i really didnt want to have to bore out my crankcase so i just went for the rebuild. i saw you were talking about putting a cam on it? what would that do and what is it? is it just a different size camshaft? if its cheap and easy to do then i will look into it and what kind of results does it get? sorry for all the questions lol just trying to get em all at once

No problem on the questions bro, I am not as knowledgable as Some guys on here, I just bought my hammerhead gts last christmas, however I have been doing alot of reading. This is what I know, the piston that comes in these motors is 57.4mm they have big bore kits that are 58.5mm (considered 59mm technically speaking) no case boaring required for these, it's only 1mm more but hey every little helps. Then they have the 61,62 and 63mm which you will need to bore the case for... The cams come all the way from A8-A15, u want A8 for more top speed and less torque and towards A15 more torque less top speed. They say u can't do a cam on them "p" heads do to the springs sitting higher etc. maybe on some older ones...I with out knowing this installed the A12 and clearences all look fine, starts up easy... Just need more gas... ( I made a thread about this, but not too many people are familiar with these JL1P57F motors so didn't get much feedback... The lower the cam the longer the valves stay open, the higher the cam the higher the lift on the lobe and they open more but for less time... I installed the A12 but before installing I measured the intake lobe and found my hammerhead to come with a 26.3mm on the intake lift, then I measured the A12 on the same lobe and it lifts 27.0mm ( not even 1mm difference) so like I said all clearences are fine but did gain a little more air in/out = more power... Also piston to valve clearence is fine...the lobe duration did not seem that different from each other also, so I guess in numbers they come with what many would consider aprox a A11?? ... I guess that's why my buggy felt fairly powerfull even in stock form... I am know porting and polising the intake manifold and head ports, I am also waiting on a 26mm carb and 38 pilot jet oppose to the 24mm carb it comes with. It makes sense to me as the intake valve measures 26mm on my head so I want it all from carb to exhaust to flow nicely. Anybody feel free to correct me, this is how we learn! And hope i am of some help john

[hhgtsplatinum]

O btw i went with the motorio A12 cam on mine $44 free shipping on ebay... It is really easy to install, youtube and this site help a ton! You will need some feeler gauges and a few tools... 30 min job...with the intake exhaust and all the mods i have done i hope i have made a difference to my motor, if i even get just one more hp on this supposedly 10hp motor that is a 10% gain, that would be like 40hp on a 400hp motor, read that here on this site somewhere and it stuck on my head... Makes sense to me...

[john.h]

i typed a long message in reply to those two messages but i guess it didnt go through. i was saying i might get the a12 cam the new one i got is an a9. it was also asking about jetting the carb. i have no clue how to do any of that and even when i went to open up my carb i couldnt because every screw on it is broken off. i got the rebuild kit in the mail yesterday and went to check out everything and it all fits!!!! only problem is i dont have a pulley puller to remove my fly wheel or a torque wrench so i went up to advanced auto to rent one and i had a heck of a time the first thing i got didnt have anything the right size it was all to small so when i took it back i took the engine with me and they had nothing that could get it off. the guy working there said he has a puller at his house that should work so i am going back up there this afternoon to see if we can get it done. also the torque wrench they gave me has a 1/2 inch drive on it and the majority of my sockets are either 3/8 or 1/4 so i have to buy an adapter for it but ive needed it anyway because my my pneumatic impact driver has a 1/2 inch drive too and i would like to be able to use it on more things without having to buy a new socket set. i have a few deep sockets with 1/2 drives but the smallest i have is a 5/8 and i need metric for these chinese things.

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

i typed a long message in reply to those two messages but i guess it didnt go through. i was saying i might get the a12 cam the new one i got is an a9. it was also asking about jetting the carb. i have no clue how to do any of that and even when i went to open up my carb i couldnt because every screw on it is broken off. i got the rebuild kit in the mail yesterday and went to check out everything and it all fits!!!! only problem is i dont have a pulley puller to remove my fly wheel or a torque wrench so i went up to advanced auto to rent one and i had a heck of a time the first thing i got didnt have anything the right size it was all to small so when i took it back i took the engine with me and they had nothing that could get it off. the guy working there said he has a puller at his house that should work so i am going back up there this afternoon to see if we can get it done. also the torque wrench they gave me has a 1/2 inch drive on it and the majority of my sockets are either 3/8 or 1/4 so i have to buy an adapter for it but ive needed it anyway because my my pneumatic impact driver has a 1/2 inch drive too and i would like to be able to use it on more things without having to buy a new socket set. i have a few deep sockets with 1/2 drives but the smallest i have is a 5/8 and i need metric for these chinese things.

Wait pulley puller? What all exactly are u needing to replace? I thought u where just doing a top end replacement? Jetting the carb is simple as removing a screw and putting a different one on.... However i am almost sure you have a carb like mine that don't come with screws but rather rivets or headless screws... Youtube on how to change jets on a gy6 carb.... Now to get into the carb, use a dremel or a hacksaw and carefully cut a deep slot on the top of those rivet like things....make sure you get in deep as they are on there a bit tight. Use a flat screw driver and screw those things off, u can replace them with 4mm screws

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

Wait pulley puller? What all exactly are u needing to replace? I thought u where just doing a top end replacement? Jetting the carb is simple as removing a screw and putting a different one on.... However i am almost sure you have a carb like mine that don't come with screws but rather rivets or headless screws... Youtube on how to change jets on a gy6 carb.... Now to get into the carb, use a dremel or a hacksaw and carefully cut a deep slot on the top of those rivet like things....make sure you get in deep as they are on there a bit tight. Use a flat screw driver and screw those things off, u can replace them with 4mm screws

One of the gaskets on the case is bad so oil leaks out a little so I am replacing that too and also I think my stator might be going bad or might just need to be cleaned off because I can see behind my flywheel it is covered in dirt and other stuff plus when I stop quickly or slam on brakes it cuts off and my battery keeps going dead and not charging back up doesn't the stator work as a alternator on the car and charge the battery too
Another reason I have to remove the flywheel is because my camchain fell off the sprocket inside the case so I was gonna split the case to get it back on. I don't think I need it but the rebuild kit I bought came with a new oil pump so I was just gonna inspect the other one and if needed I was gonna put the new one on

[john.h]

I will post pictures of my carb when I get back to the house

[SYCARMS]

You will need a special puller for pulling the flywheel. Regular pullers will mess something up. I keep the puller in stock, give me a call if you need one 662-301-1563. For the case you will need an inch pound torque wrench. Harbor freight has them for around 20.00. Make sure it is Pittsburgh brand. If you have to remove the starter clutch you are going to need a spanner wrench to remove the spanner nut. Having the proper tools are a must to keep from messing things up.

[hhgtsplatinum]

Having the right tools does help a bunch...

[hhgtsplatinum]

Did u get the carb open?

[john.h]

I haven't got it open yet and I completely forgot to take a picture of it but I got my engine put back together and back on the buggy but I'm not getting spark anymore and I'm not sure why I didn't look at it too much because we had a party and I was busy but I'm hoping to get more into it soon

[john.h]

Okay so here's an update on where I'm at. I've tested every peice of wire or connector and anytgin I could think of and I found out I had a bad ignition switch. When I messed with te key a little and just kept moving it back and forth it would turn over a little. I ended up getting it to spark a little but couldn't get it started. I had the cdi and solenoid and everything tha goes inside the electrical box hanging out still and I reached over to give it more gas on the carb and put of no where my new cdi pops and starts melting everywhere. I had it in my shed when I was working on it and within seconds I could barely breathe there was so much smoke in there from the melting plastic.i unplugged the battery quickly and took the cdi off with a rag and got out of the shed as quickly as I could. So this new performance cdi that I got with my rebuild kit really didn't work to well considering it basicly blew up in my face. I'm going to email the company that I got it from and see what they will do. Luckily I still have my stock cdi so I can use that still. I'm just having one problem after another with this buggy.

[SYCARMS]

Sounds like you installed an AC CDI in a DC system.

[john.h]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Sounds like you installed an AC CDI in a DC system.

Everything I found online said I had an ac cdi and the one I got was a ac too I didn't have to change the connectors or anything.dont the ac/dc have different connectors

[SYCARMS]

No they both have the same plug ends. An AC volt cdi will have 2 wires on the 2 pin (smaller) side where the DC volt will only have 1 wire on the 2 pin plug.

[hhgtsplatinum]

Aren' the ac smaller then the dc also?

[SYCARMS]

In most cases but not all

[john.h]

I am just going to go back to the stock cdi for now but coming off of my pickup coil there are two single wires one is blue and on is red there is a spot that the blue plugs in but ever since I got it there wasn't a spot for the red wire to go what would that go to?.

[SYCARMS]

That wire is either a red with black trace or black with red trace. That wire is not used with a DC cdi. The stock cdi is the best in the DC volt simply because they are mapped for that buggy. All the performance CDI are mapped for the much lighter scooter. There are a few performance CDI that work well with the buggies that have extensive engine mods but they are pricey.

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

That wire is either a red with black trace or black with red trace. That wire is not used with a DC cdi. The stock cdi is the best in the DC volt simply because they are mapped for that buggy. All the performance CDI are mapped for the much lighter scooter. There are a few performance CDI that work well with the buggies that have extensive engine mods but they are pricey.

hey SYCARMS I changed my cdi to a after market no rev limiter adjustable cdi, will the stock one be better? thanks

[john.h]

So I do have a dc stator and cdi if There is a red wire with black stripe that goes to nothing? By the way I appreciate all the help

[SYCARMS]

That is correct.

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

So I do have a dc stator and cdi if There is a red wire with black stripe that goes to nothing? By the way I appreciate all the help

Hey john I checked on mine ( since i also have a hammerhead with a JL1P57L) and mine only has one black wire there. Don't know why yours had a red whit black stripe...

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

Hey john I checked on mine ( since i also have a hammerhead with a JL1P57L) and mine only has one black wire there. Don't know why yours had a red whit black stripe...

Might be because of year or since you have the platinum and I have the base model. Mine is a 2011 what is yours?

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

Might be because of year or since you have the platinum and I have the base model. Mine is a 2011 what is yours?

well I bought it in 2014, but I saw there for a while... so don't exactly know. is there a way u can tell?

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

well I bought it in 2014, but I saw there for a while... so don't exactly know. is there a way u can tell?

I think the first year of the platinum edition was 2012 but I am not sure. For your roll cage is there two bars that come out to the side and attach to the cargo rack? I know they started that in 2012

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

I think the first year of the platinum edition was 2012 but I am not sure. For your roll cage is there two bars that come out to the side and attach to the cargo rack? I know they started that in 2012

yes it does have that. I know the dealer had them for a while I got here in 2013 and I would drive by and see them, on late 2014 I bought it.

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

yes it does have that. I know the dealer had them for a while I got here in 2013 and I would drive by and see them, on late 2014 I bought it.

Ok so it is probably a 2012 or 2013 but it is newer than mine so might be why we have that different wire. Also I usually don't have a problem with this but Ii messed up a little with all the vaccum lines and I don't know where they go do you think you could send a few pics of yours or if you have a good diagram for it it would be awesome

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

Ok so it is probably a 2012 or 2013 but it is newer than mine so might be why we have that different wire. Also I usually don't have a problem with this but Ii messed up a little with all the vaccum lines and I don't know where they go do you think you could send a few pics of yours or if you have a good diagram for it it would be awesome

yeah no problem I can send you a couple pics, but mine it is a little apart right now, nothing major though just had upgraded CVT and just finished my port polish job, let me know exactly pics of where. all the vaccum lines I can think of are the carb ones

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

yeah no problem I can send you a couple pics, but mine it is a little apart right now, nothing major though just had upgraded CVT and just finished my port polish job, let me know exactly pics of where. all the vaccum lines I can think of are the carb ones

Yea those are the ones I talking about all the different lines on the carb I don't think I put them back on right

[hhgtsplatinum]

Originally Posted by john.h

Yea those are the ones I talking about all the different lines on the carb I don't think I put them back on right

I'll get a pic as soon as I can but it's really simple one comes off the top of the carb and goes to a y or T joint that goes to the intake manifold and petcock on gas tank (bottom one)

I currently have the carb off as I wan to upgrade it, just have no idea what to get... many people say keep the 24mm cvk just re-jet, I want to get a bigger one but 30cvk is too big so maybe a 26mm as my head has 26mm intake port so it makes sense in my head...but now I want a mikuni 24mm or 26 but found out they actually perform as bigger cvk's dues to nothing to block the airflow... so maybe a 24mm.... but now I don't know as many people say get a round slide, others say flat slide... then I have no idea where to start on the jets if I do do a slide carb and many people say round slide suck because u constantly have to be tuning etc.... man I am lost and so it just sits in the garage collecting dust...

[john.h]

Originally Posted by hhgtsplatinum

I'll get a pic as soon as I can but it's really simple one comes off the top of the carb and goes to a y or T joint that goes to the intake manifold and petcock on gas tank (bottom one)

I currently have the carb off as I wan to upgrade it, just have no idea what to get... many people say keep the 24mm cvk just re-jet, I want to get a bigger one but 30cvk is too big so maybe a 26mm as my head has 26mm intake port so it makes sense in my head...but now I want a mikuni 24mm or 26 but found out they actually perform as bigger cvk's dues to nothing to block the airflow... so maybe a 24mm.... but now I don't know as many people say get a round slide, others say flat slide... then I have no idea where to start on the jets if I do do a slide carb and many people say round slide suck because u constantly have to be tuning etc.... man I am lost and so it just sits in the garage collecting dust...

That sounds like a lot of decisions to make haha I had the same problem with what I wanted in my cvt and I still haven't made up my mind but on my carb there are two lines that come from the petcock and there are lines that go to the air box too and I haven't gotten an aftermarket airfilter yet because I don't know what to do with that line

[SYCARMS]

The top hose from vacuum operated fuel pump is the fuel to carb, the bottom line goes to vacuum. The larger lines are the vent lines from crankcase, trans case and carb. The EPA mandates these vents to run to air box to burn vapors. Older models vented to atmosphere. If the air box is replaced with UNI or like filters you will have to vent to atmosphere. According to EPA regulations if you run closed circuit (sanctioned events) you are legal to remove pollution devices, but running open circuit(non sanctioned events)is not legal to remove. If eliminating air box, a UNI, K&N or R2C or like filter will be needed along with a larger main jet usually .122 to .125 for a stock engine. Vent hoses from valve cover, transmission, and carb will vent to atmosphere. One of the 2 vacuum tees (if equipped) will be eliminated and routing will be as such. Manifold vacuum to tee. from tee to lower nipple on fuel pump, last port on tee goes to diaphragm on right side of carb.

[john.h]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

The top hose from vacuum operated fuel pump is the fuel to carb, the bottom line goes to vacuum. The larger lines are the vent lines from crankcase, trans case and carb. The EPA mandates these vents to run to air box to burn vapors. Older models vented to atmosphere. If the air box is replaced with UNI or like filters you will have to vent to atmosphere. According to EPA regulations if you run closed circuit (sanctioned events) you are legal to remove pollution devices, but running open circuit(non sanctioned events)is not legal to remove. If eliminating air box, a UNI, K&N or R2C or like filter will be needed along with a larger main jet usually .122 to .125 for a stock engine. Vent hoses from valve cover, transmission, and carb will vent to atmosphere. One of the 2 vacuum tees (if equipped) will be eliminated and routing will be as such. Manifold vacuum to tee. from tee to lower nipple on fuel pump, last port on tee goes to diaphragm on right side of carb.

Thank you that had all the info I needed and then some I'm gonna get this back together here soon now and my ignition switch and new solenoid will get here by Friday supposivly Amd I got a volt guage too that I am gonna put on there so I will know if my battery is running low

[john.h]

its been a while since ive worked on the buggy due to other things going on. I got my carb opened.....very dirty. rebuild kit will be here in a few days. engine wouldnt start and i determined i wasnt getting any fuel. besides that though i am having trouble getting my shifter cable back on because i dont know if it is lined up right or anything. anyone have any tips for the internal reverses?

[liduno]

If I remember correctly it's spring loaded to be in drive, when you pull the cable you get reverse.

[SYCARMS]

Go to American sportworks.com, hold mouse over owners at top of page click on manuals then fun carts. Using dropdown click 7XXX then 7150 and service manual. It will give you all the info needed to adjust and even rebuild complete engine and transmission.

[john.h]

ok so i got everything in the mail and put the carb back together and got it on the engine. put new spark plug in, newly charged battery and nothing... i have tried and tried i can not get it started. I am getting spark but it doesnt look very strong. it acts like its not getting enough gas so i took some starter fluid and put a bit into air intake and nothing still. i even tried putting a bit right onto spark plug itself but nothing happens. i am so stumped with this thing. i have no idea what the problem could be.

[liduno]

Take off the filter and squirt some gas directly into the carb.

[john.h]

Originally Posted by liduno

Take off the filter and squirt some gas directly into the carb.

The float bowl was full of gas so there was plenty of gas inside carb but I took the intake manifold off and it was dry as a bone

[SYCARMS]

Do you have spark? What color is the spark? What is your compression? Have you adjusted the valves?

[john.h]

Have a blue spark, haven't done compression test valves are all adjusted to specs

[SYCARMS]

That leaves 2 things, compression and fuel delivery. If compression is too low there won't be enough vacuum to pull fuel from the fuel bowl. If compression is good it would have to be in the carb. The pilot jet or orifice could be plugged. Or something may not have been put in correctly. I have seen it happen first hand while blowing carb out using compressed air where the needle bushing had blown out. Look in the throat of the carb where you will see the slide. Push the slide up and where the needle goes through the floor of the carb regulating the fuel from the main jet you should see slightly sticking up either a brass or aluminum bushing. If you don't see it start looking for it.

[john.h]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

That leaves 2 things, compression and fuel delivery. If compression is too low there won't be enough vacuum to pull fuel from the fuel bowl. If compression is good it would have to be in the carb. The pilot jet or orifice could be plugged. Or something may not have been put in correctly. I have seen it happen first hand while blowing carb out using compressed air where the needle bushing had blown out. Look in the throat of the carb where you will see the slide. Push the slide up and where the needle goes through the floor of the carb regulating the fuel from the main jet you should see slightly sticking up either a brass or aluminum bushing. If you don't see it start looking for it.

Ok I will check on that tomorrow. I am getting a compression tester and new fuel lines tomorrow just for the heck of it because mine now are all Dryrot. Thank you for the help

[john.h]

im currently out of town but i am considering selling the buggy when im all done with it and everythings right on it. i need some help though, i have no clue what to sell it for or how to figure it. i found the exact same one as mine on craigslist for $1,600 but mine has more upgrades. any ideas on what it should go for?

[scjeep4.7HO]

Why do you want to sell it?

[john.h]

Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO

Why do you want to sell it?

I need the money and want something new. I don't know if I am yet though still considering it but I would re-do everything on it before I sold it.

[john.h]

So I have barely any compression. What should I start checking for?

[john.h]

I am getting about 12 psi the picture didn't come thru because I'm on my phone

[liduno]

Figure out why.

A little oil in the cylinder and another compression test will give you some info.
If the compression goes up when oil is added then it might just be sticky rings from sitting around too long.

If the compression doesn't go up with oil added you may have valve issues. Could be as simple as a sticky valve, or it may have a burnt valve.

This is all assuming there isn't a hole in the piston or a broken ring.

[SYCARMS]

When doing the compression test the throttle must be fully open. If compression is low than put 2-3 squirts of motor oil in cylinder and redo test. If still low problem is mist likely with valves, if compression rises problem will be with the rings. Have you checked valve adjustment yet?