Hello From Colorado!

[Mac]

What's up everyone? I'm new to the buggy/go kart scene although I've done a pretty good job enlightening myself about then so far.

I just recently purchased a 150cc gokart, it hasn't been delivered yet but I got some extra goodies right off the batt aswell.

so far this is what I've gotten to put on the buggy

-Performance CDI w/ updated ignition curve aswell as the Rev limiter removal
-New replacement carb
-New main jets ranging from #100-#140 (any input on being at 9500ft elevation and choosing a good main jet would be appreciated)

Things I haven't gotten but plan too shortly

-Uni Filter
-Performance Exhaust
-12g Sliders
-1.5k clutch spring
-new tires
-replace gauges with something better, same with lights
-Big Bore Kit (I'm still a little foggy on what's involved with the big bore kit as far as machining and installation, also which kit to buy)



Primarily I will be trail riding out here in Colorado mountains, I live right next to a string of 23 miles of trails for OHV'S. My biggest and only concern is making this buggy as powerful and reliable as possible, I'm not gonna rag on it to ****, but I will have fun!

If anyone has any other suggestions on "bang for your buck" Performance for these 150cc gy6 clone engines, I'd love to hear them. I've investigated a turbo kit for it at some point, but from my research it looks like a wise decision to beef up the drive train first as the engine seems easy to upgrade.

the model of my buggy is the "Jet Moto ZX-4"


PS of anyone is in the Denver CO area, send me a message!

-Mac

[zman007007]

welcome Mac

[Mac]

[SYCARMS]

Welcome to the addiction

[Mac]

Haha for real, already addicted and it's not even here yet

[scjeep4.7HO]

Welcome

[GX150]

I just drove through Denver two weekends ago and had my 250cc buggy with me. Although I'm jetted for 1000-2000', I was able to ride in areas 6000-8000' but the plug would load up if driving slowly and deceleration had a lot of back fire due to running rich. Expect to be jetted 10 less on the main and 2.5-5 less on the pilot than at sea level. You may find with a less restrictive intake at elevation, that the OEM lean jetting may be just fine.

I like the 12g sliders in a 150cc setup but prefer the 2000 rpm main torque spring so it "down shifts" the CVT quicker and holds the belt tighter. I would swap out the axle sprocket for a larger 39t if it did not come with one. SycArms can provide you with higher ratio (lower gear) final drive gears if you need even more torque.

An open air filter on a 6" intake tract will free up breathing and offer you better filter choices than what is in your box. The exhaust can be improved with a 1" header pipe and better flowing muffler. Since you are in a high fire danger area, make sure the muffler you choose is USFS approved with a spark arrestor or you build your own arrestor into the muffler you select. For torque, I like the A12 cam - It has a long duration but not that much lift. It will hurt top end slightly but make a noticeable difference in how the engine pulls hills.

Unless you you have an ignition failure, upgraded components are not worth the price. As you replace the parts due to wear or age, you can experiment with the performance products but don't expect much change.

The Trail Tech is best bang for the buck instrument cluster. It will give you head temperature, RPM, speed and time in a compact weather proof package. Power available for lights or winch on a 150 is minimal. If you upgrade the battery larger than a 14Ah, you will find the the stock charging system will not be able to fully charge the battery and you will need to top it off with an external charger. Lighting can be improved by going with LED, but be aware that some of the 150's tap directly off the AC power on the stator instead of the battery's DC. This will shorten the life of an LED light if you power it through AC.

You will be disappointed in OEM tires. They typically are thin and are not very aggressive. I suggest running 22" tall front and rear to give better clearance but not rob too much power from the engine.

The 150cc engine is not powerful, but you can get excellent speed or torque out of it as long as you do not want both. Your riding style and terrain will determine where you find that balance between the two.

[Mac]

Awsome info bro, I really appreciate it. Ya I figured this 150cc will be a decent starting point to get in the game on somewhat of a budget.

Reading ur post has brought a few questions to mind.

I didn't catch the 6 " intake part, are u saying yo make a snorkel type and relocate with a uni filter? Or is there something else u meant?

The exhaust, I haven't came across any header pipes, are they just any pipe that's aftermarket?

The sprocket for the chain, I been having a hard time finding info on, I'm curious what stock is usually on a 150, and also where to buy, how easy to install...

I've been looking at the A12 cam already, and a racing variation with 12g sliders and the 1.5k spring.
I understand the cam ratings and what they do differently, but I'm curious is it's wise to focus on the cvt first, or the engine?basically, should I upgrade trany or make engine breath better first?


The trails by my house have some decent long grade hills and some short hill climbing, I think a solid mixture of both speed and torque is where I want to be because there are opportunities for straight aways and fast riding, but then some areas with heavey turning and terrain.

and to speak on the jets, I havent read much about the pilot jet, but I was thinking that at such high elevation a lower # rated jet would work better due to thinner air, where is some good info on the whole re jetting process here with these engines?

Thanks!

[GX150]

You need an intake plenum between the carburetor and air filter to reduce turbulence. We have found that 6" of intake is the best length for performance.

Anything you can do to improve flow through the engine is a plus. If you change where the engine is making peak power, the CVT may have to be adjusted again. What you will find is the CVT is tuned for fuel efficiency powering a scooter. The dynamics of a buggy concerning weight and terrain is so different than a scooter, that changing the CVT parts over for a closer buggy tune will always be desirable.

If you want excellent hill climbing and the ability to ride in soft sand, expect around 30 mph top speed. If you are willing to give up sand riding, you should be able to get a GY6 tuned to run 35-40 mph on hard pack.

Due to variations in heads, cams, intakes and exhausts, there is not one jetting combination that will work for everyone. You will most likely find a 32.5 pilot will give you good low end for your elevation. The higher RPM adds the flow of the of the main and pilot jets, so I always advise getting the pilot selected first. You should have 110, 112.5, 115 and 117.5 main jet on hand so you can do plug tests to find the best burn.

[Mac]

I just got back from a test run on some fresh installs. It's a totally different buggy already!

I opened up the cvt and installed 12g sliders, I weighed the stock rollers and they were 13g but I could feel the difference for sure, alot more drifting out of turns and hill climbing was improved a good deal.

I also installed the blue AC performance cdi, I still have stock coil and plug but I did this install first obviously and drove it down the street, I was getting up to speed faster already but in conjunction with the sliders, it made a noticeable difference.

I still have a 1.5k torque spring, uni filter and a a few different main jets to play with.

I'm going to install the 1.5k spring tomorrow morning and hit the trails for a tester. I have a tap set for the screws on the bottom of the carb, but I'm really not sure I'm gonna be good at doing that so I may just order another carb and use that as my tester, plus I need to order that 6" tube for the uni. I know I could fashion one, but I want it to look clean.

is there a sleeve u can buy that goes over the uni? I thought I read there's a water repellent/pre filter sleeve type thing but I can't seem to find it Google searching.

also after I get the 1.5k spring in, dial In Jet and filter all installed, what would be some suggestions for next upgrade? Hd coil + plug I'll alreadydo soon eenough.

Any advice on suspension upgrade? I know that's asked alot, but I guess I'm wondering what I can actually do. My rear seems to be the worst, but I'm sure all 4 shocks aren't oil filed so anything oil filled would help. Would there be disadvantages to using a shock set .5" shorter in the rear? Or .5" longer? I ask because 18" shocks seems not very common, but the .5 ones are more common.

thanks in advance, I'll post some pics as soon as I upload them, ride was super fun

[SYCARMS]

If you have the 2 stage UNI you only oil the inner (black) the outer is your pre filter. As far as the shocks go, if you really want to make a difference then get ready to dish out some $'s. I have tried all sorts of shocks but after I bolted on the Works my single seat Blade went from a Geo Metro right to a Mercedes. Bump steer gone, bumps smooth out and control is unbelievable. What you have to realize is that a shock is designed around the vehicle this is why every ATV, UTV uses a different application, but as I said get ready to dish out the $'s. But you won't regret it.

[Mac]

I kind of feel like in the case of my China made kart, the suspension was more of a working object rather than specific to my vehicle, I took a shock off today and u can hear another spring inside of the shock hah so I need to do something if I don't want a sore ass, especially up here at 9000ft in the rockies.

but u say "the works" what exactly is the works? My rear suspension, mounted on the buggy is 18" maybe 18.5" eye to eye, I don't see much room even for fabrication the way the rear is setup, to much more movement would cause issues with the chain tension I'm sure, or it just flexing so much it came off sprocket.

[SYCARMS]

That is the brand name of the shock. They make them custom for the vehicle. It's a gas over hydraulic dual rate spring.