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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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porting and polishing
Check out some of my porting and polishing work for intakes and cylinder heads.
I like to take my time and do alot of r&d Last edited by achidotcom; 11-28-2009 at 10:21 PM. |
#2
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thats is sweet work!does it help much to shine the carb like that?ive seen heads but not a carb
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUgir...ature=g-t=2668 FABRICATION ITS HARDER THAN YOU THINK |
#3
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would a p and p be hard for a first timer?
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUgir...ature=g-t=2668 FABRICATION ITS HARDER THAN YOU THINK |
#4
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the carb is not just shined, it is re angled for max flow. also the choke has been relocated and the idle access port has been filled then turned on a lathe and re angled the venturi. its alot of work and not suggested for a beginner, niether is porting a cylinder head.
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#5
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what is that exhaust on the one pic? Looks super cool.
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#6
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that is a yoshimura silencer from a klx110 and fitted with a BTX header.i tig welded it together. very trick and good power. that engine is a 190cc tricked out from my garage. with a custom rear wheel and hub.
more of my work custom intake swirl polish see more stuff here http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z...com/?start=all Last edited by achidotcom; 11-29-2009 at 12:33 AM. |
#7
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Awsome port and polish I just did a quick port and so so polish on our buggy head after finding out that our cheap replacement motor cyl head was restricted. I was experimenting so didnt want to go crazy. About 5 hours of porting and it made a huge
gain in mid to top end. It actually now pulls and dosnt rev out with nowere to go. I was origonally going to only remove the base gasket but had only 25/30 thous of inch on tdc . So instead of removing the gasket I am very happy with the perf gain from port job. |
#8
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good job, that looks very professionaly done. A couple of tricks that could improve your job even better.
Un-shroud around the spark plug, clean up/taper around the spark plug hole to expose the plug end. This promotes better flame travel. The intake side should not be polished mirror smooth. A slick surfaces in the intake and cylinder port will cause fuel to cling to the walls. A rough finish will keep the fuel particles in suspinsion. Keeps the air/fuel mixture stired up! the trick here is to keep the interior volume the same throughout the entire intake track in order not to alter the rate of velocity. The exhaust side can't be too slick. you want the spent gasses out of there as fast as possible with no bumps or obstructions to disrupt the flow. |
#9
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So should it not be done so shiny smooth mirrored like the images on this thread?
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Buggy 1 150cc Buggy A12 Cam, 12g Sliders, Ban Jing Bell, NCY Green Clutch, 24mm Carb, 115mm Koso variator ramp, redneck intake, uni filter, straight through exhaust. Guang Max 150 All stock but to be like Buggy 1 with all koso cvt. Roketa 150 Complete tear down building port/polished 61mm NCY head, 62mm cylinder, A12 Cam, 28mm carb, straight through exhaust, 8 pole stator, possibly 2.5 stroker, painting frame, adding plastic including doors and rzr seats. |
#10
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The intake runner should never be polished. A rough surface helps to breakdown/atomize the fuel.Too smooth surface causes fuel to puddle. Fuel burns most efficient in atomized state and not so good in liquid state.
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#11
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So on the exhaust side it is good to get it very smooth to the point of shine?
The intake is best to just get rid of imperfections of casting but leave about the same roughness as the casting made?
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Buggy 1 150cc Buggy A12 Cam, 12g Sliders, Ban Jing Bell, NCY Green Clutch, 24mm Carb, 115mm Koso variator ramp, redneck intake, uni filter, straight through exhaust. Guang Max 150 All stock but to be like Buggy 1 with all koso cvt. Roketa 150 Complete tear down building port/polished 61mm NCY head, 62mm cylinder, A12 Cam, 28mm carb, straight through exhaust, 8 pole stator, possibly 2.5 stroker, painting frame, adding plastic including doors and rzr seats. |
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