Gearing Buggy Internal And External - BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum

fan4chevy · #1 09-11-2016, 12:42 PM

Hi,

So much on scooters but not buggies. As we all know buggies are much heavier and bottom end can not be overly compromised if we want to get it rolling.

I have 13/40 external sprockets and 31/16 internal final gears. I am wondering if you all could pipe in to help me in deciding if my gears are good to stay with or if there is a better performing setup for my needs.

I need all around performance. I travel legally on the street so need as much top end while having a good launch to hit some hills or powering in turns.

Thank you.

tkeagle · #2 09-12-2016, 10:20 AM

Not to sure about final gears. There is some on here, that might be able to help.
See you got 11 gram rollers.
I've been told by more then one person, that 10 sliders, will give you your lower end, but still keep your top end. I've got 10 sliders. Put in 12 rollers once. And did not get any more top end. Felt little sluggish on the very bottom end. Don't know if that will help you or not.

jmansracerocket · #3 09-12-2016, 11:35 AM

Do your big bore, cam, head, exhaust, and intake first, then decide on gearing.

fan4chevy · #4 09-12-2016, 12:19 PM

tkeagle

Through some research I am now leaning away from rollers to go to the mentioned sliders. I was thinking of doing 12g sliders. I don't want to poo out my launch but also need to have as much top end as well. Whatcha think by your experience?

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Jaman,

You are saying see what the big bore kit does for me and how it performs to determine the need? The only thing I was thinking was that I already have the engine out though.

jmansracerocket · #5 09-12-2016, 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fan4chevy

tkeagle

Through some research I am now leaning away from rollers to go to the mentioned sliders. I was thinking of doing 12g sliders. I don't want to poo out my launch but also need to have as much top end as well. Whatcha think by your experience?

-------------------------

Jaman,

You are saying see what the big bore kit does for me and how it performs to determine the need? The only thing I was thinking was that I already have the engine out though.

Excatly, and you can change the gearing without taking the whole engine out, you can do a simple sprocket swap if you wanted, or you can also change the internal gears with the engine still mounted.

**SYCARMS** · #6 09-12-2016, 12:58 PM

I think you have your #'s backwards. The 13/40 should be your internal final drive gearing which comes to a 3:08 ratio. The 31/16 should be your sprockets. Both are the best you will do. Going with a smaller ratio than 3:08 will help top end just like a hi way gear in your car but bottom end will suck. Increasing your axle sprocket will give you better bottom end but you will loose top end. The motor needs to produce more power. For more power you need a good quality performance head that has the large runners and larger valves and a good performance cam. For more power a proper port and polish on the new head. A big bore kit will than enhance the power output.

GX150 · #7 09-12-2016, 07:20 PM

Keep the lowest gearing possible (highest ratios) and adjust later by using different height tires. My 250 runs 20" sand paddles, 22" and 25" trail tires or 25" street tires based on where I ride.

fan4chevy · #8 09-13-2016, 01:04 AM

SYCARMS

I will double check my gears.

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GX150 Good point. Bigger tires better clearance.

tkeagle · #9 09-13-2016, 12:52 PM

with 10 gram sliders, you will keep your lower gear longer. Will take you longer to hit your top speed. But keep your lower end longer at take off. So mainly how it's going to be driven. It takes a little bit, until I hit top end. But where I ride, I don't need my top end. I get on a open dirt road, then I hit my top end. But again, will take long to get there, compared to 12g sliders. Again, how you drive it, or what your driving conditions are.

tkeagle · #10 09-13-2016, 12:55 PM

You driving on the open road, 12 grams might be a decent choice. Really, best way, is to get a multi set, of around what you what. Then swap them out, and see what works best for what you are wanting. However, don't change anything else, but your sliders when trying to figure out what you want. Keep conditions same testing it, with heavier, or lighter weights. or you could chase your tail.

fan4chevy · #11 09-13-2016, 01:05 PM

tkeagle

As a new comer it is difficult to decide on how to build and engine to its best performance, that is for sure.

I am pretty sure I am going with the 12g sliders and a 62mm big bore (NCY 62mm Ceramic) and either a 61mm NCY head or a Taiwan no name 62mm performance head. Not sure which one of those to do yet being the NCY61mm is less then the size of my cylinder. Have suggestions?

Also to match up the 12g sliders and potentially a 2 or 3mm stroker (still debating whether to stroke due to scares of stroker breaking) what is the best cam choice with all this combo, an A11 or A12?

fan4chevy · #12 09-18-2016, 02:39 AM

Sycarms,

Yep you are right I had my numbers backwards on my gearing.

I have 13/40 internal and 31/16 external gears.

fan4chevy · #13 01-10-2017, 01:41 PM

Do you recommend sticking with the gearing I have? I would like all around performance. I have just about all riding needs, long runs, some hills.

scjeep4.7HO · #14 01-10-2017, 03:29 PM

Like other have suggested if you plan on ever doing engine mods do them first. They will change what you end up needing as far as gears are concerned anyway. If you gear to low now and add engine mods you'll wind out the RPM's too fast.

**SYCARMS** · #15 01-11-2017, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fan4chevy

Do you recommend sticking with the gearing I have? I would like all around performance. I have just about all riding needs, long runs, some hills.

I would keep the final drive gearing. After your engine mods and a few rides you might decide a larger sprocket would work better for your type of riding.