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  #1  
Old 11-14-2017, 06:54 AM
Scorpionrt Scorpionrt is offline
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Question Engine id location

I am trying to find the engine id #’s to order a bbk kit and parts on an asw scorpion.
I know it’s supposed to be on the front lower left, but it’s not. Completely blank.
Front lower right has “gy6 .7ltr”. That’s the only stamping I could find. Haven’t pulled clutch cover yet.
The engine was ran low on oil and locked up on the trail. I’ve pulled the head and jug to find some really nice scarring on piston and sleeve.
How can I check the crank for damage without pulling? Seems to turn ok.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
  #2  
Old 11-14-2017, 12:28 PM
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Default Duh!!!!!!

I found them on top left center above the clutch cover under a thick layer of oxidation.
Turns out to be JL1P57F.
Will normal 61mm big bore parts work?
What about cam and crank?
  #3  
Old 11-14-2017, 01:43 PM
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First a 61mm cylinder will require the case to be bored. There are some kits out there claiming that they are drop in. Do not buy. On those kits they turn down the cylinder sleeve which makes it too thin and does not last long for the sleeve cracks. Stick with the 58.5 kit which is a true drop in cylinder. If the pin can be removed from the piston with ease the crank should be good. If the pin is difficult to remove like having to use a punch to knock it out than check the rod for any scoring. That engine with internal reverse uses a different crank than the common GY6 so they won't work.
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Old 11-14-2017, 07:38 PM
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Thanks a bunch. Saved me time and money.
What about cam? Will a normal a12 work? Probably not.
  #5  
Old 11-14-2017, 10:55 PM
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A12 cam is good, just depends what type terrain and how you like to drive. Where you located?
  #6  
Old 11-15-2017, 06:31 AM
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I live in south ga.
Not many hills, plenty of mud and sand.
My kids drive it around neighborhood and surrounding trails.
It will do 40 with me in it, wouldn’t mind loosing some top end in exchange for low end tire spinning torque.
Would like to put slightly larger tires on it seeing as all 4 are now slicks.

Last edited by Scorpionrt; 11-15-2017 at 10:38 AM.
  #7  
Old 11-15-2017, 06:34 PM
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The A-12 cam will be a good choice with a 58.5 big bore. I would also say a good quality performance head with larger valves and runners. You can top the new head with a port and polish. This will increase power best for the money spent There will also be other things you will also want to tweak. Just to make absolutely sure you have the proper engine for the parts, pull your valve cover and measure two studs diagonally center to center. If you get 3" your all good but if it measures 3 1/8" than performance parts will not work in that engine. Feel free to give me a call 662-301-1563 and I can give you a bunch more information much quicker than me typing.
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:50 PM
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Many, many, thanks my friend!!!

Last edited by Scorpionrt; 11-16-2017 at 06:56 PM.
  #9  
Old 11-25-2017, 08:07 PM
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Would the carb need re jetting with the 58.5 mod?
  #10  
Old 11-25-2017, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpionrt View Post
Would the carb need re jetting with the 58.5 mod?
More air needs more fuel, bigger cylinder means more air is sucked in
  #11  
Old 11-26-2017, 07:04 PM
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Definitely..
  #12  
Old 12-02-2017, 02:05 PM
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Got it all back together, turn key and nothing.
Checked all connections. No joy.
The engine turns over if I jump starter wire straight to battery.
Solenoid has juice but doesn’t click.
Any tips?
Checking solenoid harness between the red and yellow wires I have 4 ohms. Normal?

Last edited by Scorpionrt; 12-02-2017 at 02:08 PM.
  #13  
Old 12-02-2017, 03:09 PM
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What buggy do you have?
  #14  
Old 12-02-2017, 08:08 PM
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Asw scorpion. 6150
  #15  
Old 12-02-2017, 09:32 PM
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Go to Americanlandmaster.com Click owners, manuals and fun karts. Chose 6150. You can download or copy the service manual. This will have step by step directions to check and repair the engine transmission and wiring schematics. Great manual.
  #16  
Old 12-03-2017, 12:14 PM
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Thanks. Think I found it. Had a burnt connector.
Got it running. A little sluggish. Waiting on jet kit and uni filter.
What’s normal operating temp?
  #17  
Old 12-03-2017, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpionrt View Post
<snip> Had a burnt connector.
<snip>
I've been chasing those all over the place. I finally gave up "fixing" the factory ones and started replacing every one I can with waterproof ones. Leaving stuff like the engine replaceables (cdi, stator, etc) but swapped everything else.

Took an afternoon because I took my time, pulled the entire harness out, and went through it one wire at a time. Took the tape off everything, fixed the cold solder joints, heat shrink instead of tape, and moved on. I also replaced the main power wire going to my key switch with quality 12 gauge awg.

After I was done it seems to crank up easier and the lights are brighter. I swapped everything over to leds when I got the buggy.


I don't have a temp gauge installed yet but measuring the temps on the head (with a temp gun) running around the pasture I've seen around 212 - 280F. Been holding off running it wide open for a very long run until I get my gauge cluster finished and installed.
  #18  
Old 12-03-2017, 02:37 PM
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320-360 Degrees. This is why it is important to make sure the fins are clean and the shroud fits good
  #19  
Old 12-03-2017, 03:20 PM
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What size jets should I try first?
  #20  
Old 12-03-2017, 03:22 PM
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What all have you done to the motor?
  #21  
Old 12-03-2017, 07:22 PM
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58.5 piston and head.
Orange coil and plug.
New exhaust.
Uni and jets on the way.
Looking for a decent dc cdi.
Diving into cvt after its running right again.
  #22  
Old 12-03-2017, 09:20 PM
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.124-.126 main and 40 pilot jet. The stock cdi is designed for the heavier buggy. The stock cdi is best for the heavier buggy. Performance cdi's are all designed for the lighter scooters. Timing map is different in buggies compared to scooters.
  #23  
Old 12-03-2017, 09:25 PM
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Good to know about cdi.
Thanks for all the help.
Will let y’all know how she works out.
  #24  
Old 12-14-2017, 05:22 PM
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Finally jot it all back together. Starts great, idles great, torque is not there and a bit jerky and popping when running like its running out of gas. Can’t seem to get wot.
Any guesses?
  #25  
Old 12-14-2017, 06:21 PM
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Do a WOT run for at least 400 feet . AT end don't let off throttle, keep it wide open and cut engine off. Coast to side and when engine dies let your foot off the full throttle position. Have your plug wrench with you and remove the plug. What color is the tip and porcelain as well as the base of threads. If white it's running lean, if black it's running rich. Tan to medium brown is good and will not be the cause of the problem. Let us know what you find.
  #26  
Old 12-15-2017, 08:26 PM
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Was running a tad rich, but on a hunch swapped out the 6 month old orange coil for the original. She runs like a raped ape now. Totally different machine.
Next up is cvt.
And tires. Kids are slinging donuts.
  #27  
Old 12-15-2017, 08:33 PM
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Great to hear.
 


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