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| 150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
10-28-2020, 10:35 AM
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First time Gy6 engine swap -tubing and connections helphelp!
I bought a used Kandi youth side by side with a hole in the engine block. So, I purchased a GY6 engine off of ebay to replace it. I have the engine installed, with oil in it. However, I have never done this before, so I'm not sure I have the vacuum hoses hooked up correctly. Does anyone know where I could find find drawings/pics to be sure I have it right?
Also, does anyone have advice on starting a gy6 for the first time? |
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#2
10-29-2020, 10:31 AM
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Post pic of lines. Generally a line comes off intake and goes to bottom port of fuel pump but some carbs have a diaphragm in carb which the vacuum line will have a T with a line going to it.
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#3
10-29-2020, 03:57 PM
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#4
10-29-2020, 04:40 PM
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#5
10-29-2020, 04:41 PM
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Picture Link
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#6
10-30-2020, 10:01 AM
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You will have a port coming off intake. The line runs from intake to a vacuum tee. Off the tee one line will go to air valve on side of carb and other line goes to the fuel pump. Two of your lines are the crankcase vent and the other is a transmission vent. Those two normally go to the air box. Those 2 leave open to atmosphere, however if using the stock air box make sure you plug the open nipples the 2 hoses went to so not to suck trash into the air box. The last bigger hose should come off the exhaust or head at exhaust. Leave that hang.
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#7
10-30-2020, 11:04 AM
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Thanks! Ok, I think I see where I need to move some things around. I've looked on the engine and don't see something I would call a fuel pump. Should it be on the engine itself, or is it over near the fuel tank?
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#8
10-30-2020, 11:13 AM
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Second question. When I hooked everything up, everything seemed to match very well. All the holes lined up, connections were easy, until the very last connection. The old engine connected to a 4-pin power regulator/rectifier. The new connection that came with the engine is a 5-pin. When I went to start the machine, I hear clicking, I thought I heard the starter turn one revolution, but then just clicking as though the battery were dead. I hooked up a portable jump-starter and it did the same thing, only the clicking was faster. Pushed the brake, same thing. My guess is that it's partially how I had the tubeing hooked up and partially related to the regulator/rectifier (I had plugged back in the old, 4-pin regulator). How critical is it that i get the 5-pin regulator hooked up? Also, I noticed that the enrichment auto-choke began to get warm/hot when I forgot and left the key in the "on" position. I'm hoping I didn't damage anything. Andy advice on that? Or how to get the engine started for the first time? Here are some pics of the regulators:
Old Power Regulator/Rectifier: https://photos.app.goo.gl/V7RvQSYwyrikXH7F7 new Power Regulator/Rectifierhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/382ULCZKjTcgrGJA9 |
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#9
10-30-2020, 03:53 PM
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The enrichment valve is working. It's suppose to get hot. As the unit warms the valve starts to close until completely closed on hot engine. What ever plug is on engine the regulator must match. As far as the clicking, make sure all your grounds are connected and making a good solid contact with metal. Make sure all plugs are secure in that when plugged in no terminals pushed out of plug. If all good then jump across the solenoid which runs 12 volts directly to starter bypassing the solenoid. If then it cranks you have a bad solenoid if not make sure starter is good by putting 12 volts to starter on the bench. If all checks good then you will have to trace wires.
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