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| Go Kart Engine and Torque Converter Tech Forum for discussing go kart engines and torque converters (Briggs, Tecumseh, Suburu, Comet etc) |
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#1
11-28-2009, 12:34 PM
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Torque converter maintenance
I bought a Murray go kart about a year ago for my daughter. It has a 6.0 Tecumseh engine and a Comet torque converter. On the cover of the torque converter there is a label that says 6hp Overhead Valve Torque Drive Transmission. On the opposite side, on the frame there is a label that says to oil the clutch and chain regularly. I am not familiar with go karts. My question is how do I oil the clutch? How do I maintain the torque converter?
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#2
11-28-2009, 02:03 PM
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For the clutch, the bell rides on a bushing which rides on the axle. They are saying to give that a drop of oil here and there. Since you have a torque converter, that doesn't really apply to you.
For the torque converter, you are supposed to take apart the variator (and rear driven) assembly periodically and clean all of the parts. They tend to get carbon deposits on their parts. When they get too dirty, the variator cannot slide easily and you can get a jerky engagement or lack of disengagement. They actually make a spray dry lubricant to coat the moving parts with after you have cleaned them. |
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#3
11-28-2009, 07:52 PM
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What do you recommend I use to clean it? Where can I get the lubricant? Also, when I start the go kart up, it will not idle and shuts off. I have to immediately take off and run it a few minutes in order for it to idle and not shut off. I'm assuming it has something to do with some type of carb adjustment. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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#4
11-28-2009, 08:01 PM
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I will use a wire brush to remove all of the nasty stuff and then you use Comet GP-730A spray lubricant. It's a dry film lube made for torque converter parts. It's kind of expensive at around $20.
For the running condition, does it have a red primer bulb instead of a choke? |
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#5
11-28-2009, 09:15 PM
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It has a choke. The engine is a 6.0 hp Tecumseh Power Sport.
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#6
11-28-2009, 09:22 PM
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That's good. A lot of them are the tecumseh old style with a red primer bulb which typically just need replaced. The ones with the choke seem to do a lot better. You are likely going to have to clean the carburetor. You'll need to take it off of the engine, remove the fuel bowl, and then clean out the main and the pilot jets. You'll likely find that the inside of that carb is dirty. Not really a big job.
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#7
11-28-2009, 09:44 PM
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Sounds great. Is it a difficult task? I am not a mechanic but I am willing to take on the job. Where can I find a step by step? I can do basic car maintenance (change oil, change breaks, change water pumps, etc etc...) but I've never tampered with a carb. Am I better off taking it to a pro?
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#8
11-28-2009, 11:19 PM
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No. In fact it is pretty simple. Remove the air cleaner assembly from the carb. Then there are two nuts/bolts that hold the carb to the intake and a spring for the governor. The biggest drag is keeping fuel from spilling all over when you remove the fuel line from the carb. What I do is take a pair of small needle nose vice grips and pinch the line to keep it from flowing. I'll leave them on until the carb is remounted. Once the carb is in your hands, tip it on its side with the fuel line nozzle facing down towards a catch can to allow the fuel somewhere to go. Otherwise, when you pull the fuel bowl, it will still be filled with gasoline. Once you have poured the fuel out of the carb, there is simply a nut on the bottom of the fuel bowl that holds the bowl on. Take it off and then tap on the bowl and it will come loose. There are two jets to contend with: the main jet and a pilot jet. Both come off with a flat tip screw driver. I have a compressor and a jet cleaning kit but your goal is to make sure the passages in those jets are clear. Do not use a drill bit, especially on the pilot jet. Soaking them in carb cleaner will get any dirt loosened up pretty good too. Each carb is different in how much cleaning it needs. You'll have to get yours apart to investigate. If you have questions, ask.
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#9
11-29-2009, 02:35 PM
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OK I'll try that. On to another subject, will the engine get damaged if I take the go kart to sand dunes? Obviously not deep in the dunes but rather just around camp. Will the sand ruin the engine?
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#11
11-29-2009, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
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#12
11-29-2009, 07:40 PM
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What type of air filter would you recommend?
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#13
11-29-2009, 09:07 PM
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Honestly, you could probably get by ok with the stock filter for the time being. After riding for a short period, take a look at it and see how it is doing.
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#14
11-30-2009, 09:47 AM
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How about if I want to install headlights? It does not have a battery and the engine is a pull cord? Are there any kits out there than I can buy at a local auto parts store?
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#15
02-17-2010, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
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#16
02-18-2010, 07:23 PM
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They make a newer style carburetor that works great. Instead of the primer bulb, they have an actual choke. It costs $85 though.
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#17
02-19-2010, 09:34 PM
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Where can I purchase the carburetor? Can I just rebuild the old carburetor?
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#18
02-22-2010, 12:27 PM
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go to walmart to get the spray lube
only costs $4.20 or so olderthan
__________________
olderthan 2008 tomberline punisher 1500 spring 12g sliders 30mm cv pumper carb uni filter no rev cdi polaris xlt snowmobile shocks for front w/550 magnum springs & blaster fronts on rear and another buggy built working on mods gk-13 white spring 17 gram sliders so far |
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#19
02-22-2010, 05:13 PM
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Here is a link for a place on line where you can get the "good" one:
http://www.shakyparts.com/tecumseh_6...arburetor.html It is tecumseh part number 640346. Also, if you have a local tecumseh parts dealer, they could order it for you provided there is any left in stock. Remember that tecumseh went out of business so you may find it difficult to get parts. The thing that you need to make sure of is that when you get the carb, see what size jet is in it. It is stamped on the jet. The jet on these is actually what holds your bowl on. I can't remember the part number on the one that you need but they are interchagable. So if the main jet on your existing carb is good, just clean it real well and use it on the new one if the new one does not have the same size. The size that you currently have will depend on what size engine you have. For example, a lot of the 6.5 hp machines will have something like a size 64 in it. On some of those replacement carbs, they will actually be for a 5.5 hp which may only have a 56 main jet in it. If you try to run your engine with that in it, it won't run very well and that will be noticeable. The carbs with the red primer bulb are just flat out junk if they sit for any period of time and I am yet to be able to clean one properly because of their design. The idle circuit holes can't be cleaned properly. These new style carbs with a manual choke will cure your carb problems and are a major improvement. |
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#20
02-24-2010, 05:58 PM
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Hey,, I'm interested in the headlight question too...lets start a new thread for that... ;-)
As for the motor, If your willing to jump in and get your hands on it...CONGRATS...you are miles ahead of the general public... If you can follow directions, there arent many things you cant do... GET A MANUAL! I cant stress that enough to anybody about anything they own! A decent manual will have pictures and directions from general maintenance to rebuilding, and can be INVALUABLE as a reference tool. ;-) |
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