Battery Size?

[Camlee98]

Hi everyone first time poster here. I just bought a yerf dog with the 150cc engine. The battery is dead so I want to buy a new one. What do you guys reccommend? Can I get one from walmart or do I need to order one? On the same note this thing has about a total of 10hrs (I bought from a trusted friend) He's cleaned the carb but it dies when you give it gas. I'm thinking it's the choke I'll test this later but I had a question about it. Does it need a healthy battery for it to work correctly? Thanks for the help in advance.

[BuggyMaster]

The battery is not likely causing your problem. Still sounds like the carb didn't get cleaned properly.

It has been too long since we had our yerf dog to tell you which battery it needs for sure but there are plenty of yerf owners here and I am sure they can reply. Seems to me they take a slightly off-size one...a smaller one (smaller than say a 9-BS) if I remember right.

[Camlee98]

Thanks for the reply. The battery that's on it now is 12v 6.5 amp I haven't checked walmart yet for something compatible but it would be nice to grab something there instead of waiting for something to get shipped.

[BuggyMaster]

Walmart typically does have them. For some reason though I am thinking that they may have been a wierd size.

Just take your old one with you. The width and length would be what matters relative to it fitting in the stock battery box. I think a 12ES works for it.

[Camlee98]

So as long as it's 12v and fits the footprint of the old battery I should be alset? Can I go with a bigger amp size? Say 8amp or bigger?

[BuggyMaster]

YOu could go bigger just fine. A few more cold cranking amps won't hurt.

[Camlee98]

Went to walmart today and ended up getting the 12ES. It doesn't fit the footprint but fits enough so I can strap it down. Charged it up before leaving for work so I'll find out what's going on with this thing tomorrow. Thanks again for the help!

[olderthan]

you will like the 12es
bend the tabs down on the battery box
will help

[Rarerat]

The battery I bought for my daughters Yerf cam from AutoZone. It was bigger than the factory battery but has worked well for the 5 months we have had the buggy.

On the carb, hers will do the same thing ever once in a great while. I have noticed if I tap the side of the carb with a screw driver it clears it right up. I suspect the needle may be stuck in the seat. It doesn't happen very often & I have just been too lazy to pull the carb off to fix it.

[Camlee98]

Thanks for the input everyone. I might as well give you the story of how I got this thing. It's a Yerfdog model 3206. It belonged to my good friend/boss. He bought it for his 2 girls 4 or 5 years ago brand new. He said the buggy is lucky if it has 10 total riding hours on it. He's taken apart and cleaned the carb every year before riding with no issues. He offered it to me (he knows I have 2 boys) for 400 bucks at first. Because he couldn't get it to stay running and had other projects on his plate he gave it to me for 300! Sounded like a good deal to me lol! I'll get some pics up this week and anything I do to it I'll try to take some pics.

[Camlee98]

Ok I did some testing. Bending the flap down on the battery plate worked perfect. I did break the dryrotted strap but it would have fit over it. I put the strap I bought on it and it's fine. So I started it up and it idled fine for a few minutes so I jumped on and took off. It ran great with no issues for about 10 minutes or so. Then just as I was about to take it on the street it lost all power. I was hold the gas down and it almost seemed it was just idling. If I let of the gas it would sputter out. After starting it a few times it finally just wouldn't start at all. After letting it sit for a half hour or so it would start back up and repeat the same symptoms. So I'm thinking it's the auto choke? Any other suggestions before I order one? Do you guys recommend a vendor that sells them?

[olderthan]

the auto choke is realy a enrichment circuit
adds gas till the buggy warms up then closes
if you are able to ride 10 min then it quits i would bet
the "choke" is working ok you need to pull your carb
down and reclean it

[Camlee98]

I will attempt to clean the carb tomorrow. I pulled the auto enrich and hooked it up to a 12v 2.4amp source. It did extend and contract so it looks like it may just be something with the carb. I'll let ya know how it turns out. Is there anything I need to be looking for? I've seen buggymaster's video on changing the jet.

[olderthan]

just go in pull jets and clean them
spray the passages they were in
spray out the inside of the carb
hold jets up to the light to make
sure they are clean

[Camlee98]

Aright here's the update. I pulled the carb and cleaned it very well. Jets were not plugged but I cleaned them again. Sprayed everything with carb cleaner and let it soak in. I put it back together and it fired right up. Took it out on the street and ran WOT down the street and when I slowed down to turn around it lost power again. I sat in a driveway with my foot on the gas and it sounded like it was idling. If I let off the gas it would die. I could only crank up again by holding my foot on the gas???? I have ordered a new carb and intake manifold. I figured even if I get this one working it will be worth the 45 bucks to have a backup. Any other ideas send them my way.

[olderthan]

while you are waiting for new carb
drain the gas tank remove it and the
petcock clean both make sure the vent
in the gas cap is open

[Camlee98]

Alright cleaned the tank and line. It still does the same thing I guess I'll be waiting for that new carb to come in. Shouldn't be long. I think I should change out the spark plug too. Might aswell right. I'll keep ya updated.

[BuggyMaster]

It kinda sounds like your float may be set too low and that what it is doing is running out everything in the fuel bowl and then it can't fill it back up quick enough. Let it sit for a few and it has time to fill the bowl up and do it again.

When you had the carb apart, did you take out the float, needle and seat and clean / inspect them? If you do this, prior to taking the float apart take a picture from the side with the carb turned upside down so we can see where it is set at.

[Camlee98]

Ok I'll do that now. Should I check the top end(diaphram) or should I leave that alone? I was also wondering if I should buy a new stock plug or should I go with something different (from the auto parts store don't want to order anything right now). If so what is the part number?

[Camlee98]

Hope these are what you needed.

[Camlee98]

Ok new carb and intake came in yesterday. I installed the carb today but the intake they sent me was the wrong size. (I ordered the right one they sent the wrong one) So I got the new carb on and fired it up. It runs great!!! I rode it for about an hour so all is well. Thanks for all the help. I'm still not sure what's up with the old carb but for 33 bucks it's worth having it running again!

[olderthan]

the first time you clean your new carb flip it upside down
& adjust the float on the old one the same way
put in a zipper bag as a spare- i have a stock for a spare
a 30 cv non pumper and 30cv pumper on buggy any mods
i do i save all old parts just in case

[Camlee98]

That was my plan keeping the old one for backup. How do I adjust the float?

[olderthan]

you bend the little metal tab

[BuggyMaster]

Here's your carb picture with some markup:



In all honesty, your carb looks pretty good but one thing I have learned about these GY6 carbs is sometimes you just get a dud. This is particularly the case with the American Sportworks brands as I have had them brand spanking new with bad factory porting done and they had to be replaced.

Anyways, if your floats were sitting higher when turned upside down, I'd say you had an issue there where it was running out of fuel but yours looks fine. I am thinking possible choke issue now.

In looking at how the float works (or should), as fuel enters the carb it raises those floats up which in turn shuts off the fuel supply. Failure to shut it off can cause flooding and if it starts to do that, it should be running out the overflow tube. In even worse cases, it floods so bad that it runs into the cylinder. Fuel doesn't compress. So if it fills up the cylinder and you go to turn it over, as that piston comes up, it simply can't come up all the way and can break parts and cause damage. Worse yet, if you don't realize that is the problem, and you are checking for spark, and you turn it over and fuel comes shooting out into the spark plug that you are watching to see if it has spark...this can cause a fire, damage, injury etc. Don't ask me how I know...

Anyways, back on the subject, the other thing the float system does is make sure that there is ample fuel when the engine needs it. If the float level is set wrong in this regard, what happens (what I was considering in your case) is the fuel bowl is only holding a smaller amount of gas and when you run wide-ass-open for a bit, it uses up the supply that was there. Because the float is set wrong, it only allows so much in there and then shuts off the needle until the fuel level goes down enough in the bowl to open it again.

So the trick is to give it a happy medium. Give it too much fuel, it can flood, give it too little, and it starves for gas. Bending the tab pointed out above is what allows you to adjust when it closes off the fuel supply. Any adjustments of that tab should be done in small amounts and then tested in between to see how it worked.

Most commonly I find myself having to adjust it because the needle and seat are worn and letting more fuel get by thus it is coming out the overflow. I'll set it to where I push the tab slightly upward (from the perspective of the carb sitting in its proper mounted position, not upside down like your picture is layed out). This will cause the needle to close off the supply slightly sooner and subsequent fuel coming in will push a little harder on the needle and seat and possibly get it to seal better. That works better than 50% of the time.

Now it is still possible that the needle and seat are slightly plugged which would cause your problem If you haven't cleaned the needle and seat, tap the float pin out and raise the float whole assembly up and out of the way and then blow through the fuel inlet (seat). Wipe off the needle and reinstall. This is usually black and white meaning it is either clogged or not. If you will being a lot of these, make a habit out of blowing from the seat outward as opposed to blowing from fuel line inlet inward. Some carbs (like on a tecumseh go kart) have this little rubber thing in the seat assembly and it will shoot out like a bullet into oblivion never to be found again if you hit it with air from the fuel line inlet. Don't ask me how I know that either...it's a real drag.

[Camlee98]

Awesome info! Thanks for explaining how it all works. Makes it a little easier to understand when something is not working. After reading that I would think that if it was the floats it run again after sitting for a few minutes. This is not the case with this one. I think I'll buy a choke for the old one and try it again in the future. Like I said it would be nice to have a backup. This will get the kids on it so they can learn how to ride and later on down the road I can start tinkering with it. You should copy that last post and sticky it somewhere. I bet it will help alot for people like me with limited carb knowledge