I could have a project on my hands.

[joshstep1]

The TSC is selling a Carbide. It was sent from the manufacture without any oil in it and they burnt them up trying to start them. The cylinder and and head are sitting in the seats. They're selling it for $300. If I cant fix it, it will be great for parts. My question is where do I even begin with trying to fix this puppy?

[joshstep1]

We did buy the Carbide for $225. I'll get some pics of it up soon.

[BuggyMaster]

Great job on that deal. Is the rest of the machine as new?

[chuckorlando]

Well you got 3 options. 1) New motor, 2) new rings, cylinder, and piston, 3) buy my fully built motor

Thats a very good price for a new buggy

[kliff]

No brainer, it would already be at my house, bought and paid for....engine, minor detail, work that out later.

[joshstep1]

Buggymaster- It's got some rust, all of the mud flaps are broke, and the tires are half worn, there's no battery, and all of the hardware from them taking it apart at TSC, some guy stole.

chuckorlando- How much do you want for your engine and I'm just assuming it's GY6. Right?

Kliff- ... Huh?

[joshstep1]

Here are some pics of my new project.

[kliff]

Buy Chucko's engine, and I'll give you $100.00 + $50.00 for freight for the engine in the carbide now.

[joshstep1]

Originally Posted by kliff

Buy Chucko's engine, and I'll give you $100.00 + $50.00 for freight for the engine in the carbide now.

What? I'm confused. You'll pay me to buy his engine?

[chuckorlando]

Know he said he will buy your bad motor. My motor is fully built. 180 kit, stroker crank, endrigo st2 port and polish, prodigy clutch n bell, DrP vari, electrics and all, for the right price my 30mm slide carb thats on it with matching alum intake.

Tom Syc had the fastest 250 at the bash and he beat my 150 by less than sec in the drags. It will dig a hole with 24in mudlites with a stock sproket.

All that being said this engine has 1600 in parts on and in it. Best offer I've gotten is 650.
If your looking for a new stock motor from a good dealer it will be 650 with no electrics or intake and what have you. And stock.

If you can or will rebuild your motor you'll need a stock rebuild kit and head if it's bad and probly run you around 2-250

[joshstep1]

I think I'll rebuild the one I have since it's the cheapest option.

[chuckorlando]

Yes it is my man. If you've never done it we can walk you through it. Pretty easy

[joshstep1]

I can't imagine it's that hard.

http://www.blujay.com/item/Top-end-g...0end%20rebuild

I was going to buy this and some hardware from gokartsrus.

[BuggyMaster]

Is there a bunch of slop on the bottom of that connecting rod? There should be no up and down play with it. If it's just a matter of a top end that is a pretty easy fix but if the connecting rod is sloppy (thus providing a rod knock) it can get a little more expensive.

[kliff]

Originally Posted by joshstep1

I can't imagine it's that hard.

http://www.blujay.com/item/Top-end-g...0end%20rebuild

I was going to buy this and some hardware from gokartsrus.

No problemo, GREAT learning experience. Might I suggest you also down load an engine service manual, if nothing else, it will help you with the correct terminology of part names when asking how this thingamabob fits over that doohickie.

[joshstep1]

Buggymaster- No. The connecting rod is pretty clean.

Kliff- Will do.

Here's a question. How will I know how to line up the timing chain?

[BuggyMaster]

there are marks on your camshaft gear that are used to tell you where the cam should be when the engine is at top dead center. When you get the parts we can guide you through it. Easier than you think.

[joshstep1]

Thanks. I should be buying parts in the next few days.

[kliff]

If it's been sitting around any length of time, even a week, wih the jug off, and the crankcase internals exposed, as that pic shows...then it needs a complete dissasssembly FIRST. Everything must be cleaned. You'll be cleaning stuff out you can't even see, but it could destroy your engine prematurely.

So step 1, you asked for it, remove engine, dissassemble to last nut and bolt, CLEAN everything with mineral spirits and compressed air, buy some new gasket and re-assemble. Besides, if it was run without oil, your crank bearings are at best questionable, and the crank unit should be replaced, as should the oil pump.

[joshstep1]

Wow... this is probably going to be a very time consuming and tedious process.

[chuckorlando]

If you do it right. I bought my motor siezed up like that. Ruinedfrom the crank to the head. Thats why I started the building of my motor. I refuse to crack a spanner nut to split a case, only to put a stock crank back in.

You'll get it right though

[kliff]

So how's the project engine coming? Mine should be going back together next week. Can should be in today or Monday so I can check piston/valve clearances, need to port match the intake, all minor details.

Clearanced the case for the stroker crank yesterday, re-cut the valve seats about .010" deeper into the head, unshrouded the combustion chamber on the opposite side from the sp.plug, cleaned up the bowl area under the valves & seats, yup 'nother 3>4 hours and the head will be ready...LOL, only have about 6 hrs in the head already!

Get busy! Just a clean up, and top end install. Order those parts and let's here some fire in da hole!

[joshstep1]

Well, I dropped the engine out of it on Wednesday, I think, bought most of the hardware and that's here, and bought this rebuild kit last week.

http://www.blujay.com/item/TOP-END-R...031300-2002797

[kliff]

Don't slow down now. You said it was run without oil....gonna need an oil pump, MINIMUM! Split those cases, might as well put a crank in too, about 80.00 for a stocker, 180.00 for a stroker...I like the stroker.

Get busy, tis just an engine, and whatever falls out, can always be put back in.

[SYCARMS]

Yes deffinately an oil pump also ckeck the crank. TOM