my new project hammerhead

[zman007007]

zmans brand new battery recycling please ship to me only brand new batteries that you know are good. if we get a chance maybe we will say thanks but don't hold your breath, and even then, this may be after years of testing it. as xlint said why take a chance? lol

[jmansracerocket]

Dude, why take the chance?

Just send that thing to me to be safe......

LMAO!!!!

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

zmans brand new battery recycling please ship to me only brand new batteries that you know are good. if we get a chance maybe we will say thanks but don't hold your breath, and even then, this may be after years of testing it. as xlint said why take a chance? lol

lol do u charge a core charge for sending it to you lol.

[jmansracerocket]

I didn't get a chance to work on the buggy today im hoping some more work tomorrow on both of them.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

ive been using ballistic batteries since last winter and am very happy w/ them. got one in the 400 and the crosshammer. considering before that i had the biggest atv batts in both of them, that weighed 17 lbs. this was an instant weight loss of about 15lbs. the ballistics are cool cuz you can balance charge so each cell is close to being equal.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by JERSEYDEVIL

ive been using ballistic batteries since last winter and am very happy w/ them. got one in the 400 and the crosshammer. considering before that i had the biggest atv batts in both of them, that weighed 17 lbs. this was an instant weight loss of about 15lbs. the ballistics are cool cuz you can balance charge so each cell is close to being equal.

yes sir!, same thing with my lipos for my r/c car I have a intelligent lipo charger that peak charges and shows exactly how much each cell gets and balance charges. . Either way its going on the hammerhead for 5 pound savings and a decent amount of starting power

[rich1]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

lol it is a lipo but its a lipo iron not ion as I stated above. Ive done a lot of research and not afraid to use it.

That's the NY spirit !!!!:Warning... just don't park it inside anything of value, trailer ,garage ect. The one in my sportbike is kept on the special charger in a storage building away from the house !

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by rich1

That's the NY spirit !!!!:Warning... just don't park it inside anything of value, trailer ,garage ect. The one in my sportbike is kept on the special charger in a storage building away from the house !

What brand did u get? And what yr is it from? They have come a long way when they first came out I saw videos years ago of them catching on fire but they supposedly fixed these problems.

[rich1]

It was a Shorai battery, 2 years ago with the Deltran charger . It had a lot of trouble trying to crank the bike in cold weather. Started to get HOT when charged so I threw it out ...and went back to a Yuasa gel cell with higher amp....fixed.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by rich1

It was a Shorai battery, 2 years ago with the Deltran charger . It had a lot of trouble trying to crank the bike in cold weather. Started to get HOT when charged so I threw it out ...and went back to a Yuasa gel cell with higher amp....fixed.

I guess theres only one way to find out how this thing works then, urs was probally the ion not the iron which is suppose to be safer and not explode.

[jmansracerocket]

past 2 days worked on the hammerhead

I moved the seat belt mount 1 bar up so it was rubbing up against the head rest anymoe and I prefer it a little higher over my shoulders






next no more tow ball ! never used and never needed so I decided to ditch it to give it the clean look


I cut out the roof where the circle wholes where and made 1 mount for my mirror another nice clean look this was a decent amount of work with out cutting into the actual frame and making mounting piece and completely sanded the roof again.

[jmansracerocket]

i also took the old mans hand vacuum might vac and pulled the brake lines fluid so there completely fresh of new fluid. The roof is painted and so is the seat belt bar, il post pics of that tomorrow. Next is to cut out the 2 bars that are on the bottom end of the rear frame that where used for putting plastic up because i don't use them, then cut the battery tray down to size after i use the battery for a while first to see if i like it. Also need to get the rear cargo rack sandblasted again and paint that since i trimmed that down. Want to cut out the old battery tray plate and make a box light jersey devil does. Want to also take out the seat and sand down the seat bar frame and repaint that and put new upholstery on the bottom half since there is 2 rips down there. I've been looking all over for a pair of decent blaster shocks but a lot of them on ebay have a lot of rust and the bushings are worn, my rear shocks are kind of worn they don't really spring like the front ones still do. A lot of work left to go love this project though i am hoping to have everything the way i want it to be riding it next year as long as everything goes as planned.

[jmansracerocket]

just bought a pair of blaster shocks off ebay for the rear of the hammerhead that look like there in decent shape

[jmansracerocket]

well ive been tearing into the hammerhead again. Took the heat gun and finally pulled away the warn out ugly stickers on the flooring. Engine came out, Went threw entire engine cleaned and made my own gasket for the transmission and filled it up with oil. With the engine out of the way I did the ckau engine mount trick and have 2 bolts instead of 1 long one. Next I cut out the 2 bars that ran along the length of the rear swing arm as they where there for just mounting a piece of plastic under the sprocket. So cut those 2 bars out grinded down the welds nice and smooth. The 2 bars had the little square piece attached to them that I cut off them and made a bracket for speedo sensor for the trail tech . So freed up some space and weight and got a little bracket out of it is was a win win all around. All I did was stick the square metal piece on a vice heated it up and bent it to shape and then welded it on to the swing arm. Checked the trail tech and speedo works smoothly! Next u cut the electric box off the swing arm also. It was way to close to the engine for my liking, and u cant get the starter off because the metal sits to low! So same thing cut it off and grinded it down nice and smooth. I have the entire wiring harness out and just waiting for ckau to drive up ,to wire it up like he did on his yerf lol. I have 2 electric boxes one is a 8x8x4 and I bought a 4x4x4, seems like the 4x4x4 is to small and going to have to go with the 8x8x4 box just need to figure out where to mount it.

[jmansracerocket]

probally going to leave wiring the way it is and just put it in the new electrical box

[jmansracerocket]

Ive been working on the cargo rack trying to figure out how I want to make it smaller. So I cut the 2 end halfs off and going to reduce the width of it and cut off the end that mounted to the frame and welded the wholes solid. Also remounting the fuel tank a little higher not much but enough to keep it away from the 2 frame support bars by the rear. This will make fueling a lot easier, and if I need to remove the fuel tank makes it a lot easier for removal. Also wont be hitting nor rubbing the 2 rear support bars. Pics coming soon.

[jmansracerocket]

Well I pulled the seat out and dropped it off at the upholstery shop today. The bottom half had some pretty good rips in it, the head rest only head a couple. But the framing was rusted pretty bad! So going with same thing black vinyl. He's going to rip everything apart and I am going to pick up the frame tomorrow sand it all down and its going to get painted with por-15 paint!

[liduno]

Making me want to rip my new buggy apart and start modifying it. I think I should get it running first..lol

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by liduno

Making me want to rip my new buggy apart and start modifying it. I think I should get it running first..lol

mines from 2004 so it needed some tlc. I plan on never selling this hammerhead so I just cleaning it up. I just replaced all 16 lug nuts also with new ones, replaced a lot of nuts and bolts that where rusted or that I didn't like. I have the engine all cleaned up sitting on a bench with some nice upgrades . Nothing crazy big valve head, a-12 cam, 12 gram sliders, intake, hammerhead exhaust, I do have a 30mm pumper carb here with a 30mm intake also lol. Still cleaning up the cargo rack but wildbob got me hooked on the aluminum gas tank so now that seems like its going to be my next mod. After that im hoping to have a spot decided for the electric box. All the wiring for the trail tech is setup. I still want to move the front fenders into a different mounting spot don't like the stock mounting spot. So still lots of work to do. Oh and need to decide what to do with the battery I have lol.

[liduno]

I wish I hadn't sold my warrior. Would have been perfect for this coolster buggy.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by liduno

I wish I hadn't sold my warrior. Would have been perfect for this coolster buggy.

should have just kept the odyssey and put a new piston and rings in it. I know urs was the 350 which I still like, but im dying to own a pilot 400 one day in my life time. Every now and then Ill see the pilot on ebay ive seen them sell anywhere from $1,500-$7,000 depending on condition and documentation, and so on.

[jmansracerocket]

I grinded and cut away those little metal tabs, gives it a cleaner look, the tabs where causing rust, and now I can wrap the wiring and zip it to the frame



already have the paint and prep for it to paint the seat frame which will be tomorrow!

[liduno]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

should have just kept the odyssey and put a new piston and rings in it. I know urs was the 350 which I still like, but im dying to own a pilot 400 one day in my life time.

Parts are so expensive for odysseys. Not engine parts but everything else.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by liduno

Parts are so expensive for odysseys. Not engine parts but everything else.

il agree to that, seems like there rare and hard to find also

[x-bird]

jman, follow the por directions precisely . if you're using it on clean metal, use 40- or 60 grit paper to give it good tooth and make sure you metal etch it. Also FULLY follow the safety directions, that stuff will kick your hide hard!

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by x-bird

jman, follow the por directions precisely . if you're using it on clean metal, use 40- or 60 grit paper to give it good tooth and make sure you metal etch it. Also FULLY follow the safety directions, that stuff will kick your hide hard!

I've used it on the mustang before the stuff is pretty toxic I wear a mask and when I spray with the metal etch and there degreaser ,I spray that crap outside or leave the garage door wide open

[jmansracerocket]

haven't posted on my thread in a while figured I give an update on this summer plans for herbie.

1. I going to order some new piping to make a new fuel rack, and order a spun aluminum gas tank.

2. I have an electric box for the wiring harness just need to decide where im going to mount it and how I want to route the wiring.

3. I still haven't had a chance to try out my new light weight battery, once I try it out and see how it works out then il modify the battery tray for it.

4. Want to get a wideband kit for it so I get very accurate tuning with it.

5. If funds come by I would like to change to the hammerhead/trailmaster aluminum wheels.

6. I think im going to cut the tabs off the front fender mount point the one is slightly pointed at the wrong angle on one side and I don't like that there on the lower half of the frame, I rather make the mount on the front end on the strut like I see on the other buggies.

7. I received a media blaster for Christmas from my inlaws its the 100lb tank and cant7.it to put it to use! Im going to sand blast the entire thing and paint it most likely this color.
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-mol...lic-paint.html

Im sure there will be more ideas that I will come up with along the way but this is my starting list of things to do in the upcoming months.

[mb1134]

Any pics of the electrical box? I need to upgrade mine after installing the 11-pole rectifier and would like more room so its not all wadded up in there. What kind of box is it?

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by mb1134

Any pics of the electrical box? I need to upgrade mine after installing the 11-pole rectifier and would like more room so its not all wadded up in there. What kind of box is it?

il try to get u a pic in a little bit, but exactly what u stated is why I cut the original box out. It was so tight and always wadded up I didn't like the layout. I bought the box from home depot I believe its 6x6 or 9x9 its sitting in the garage somewhere.

[mb1134]

Gotcha. I was trying to decide what kind of box to use. I believe I may try to fine one with a fliptop lid with a gasket seal for easy access. Just need to install the Wideband, new box, exhaust and intake, then break in the new engine.

[jmansracerocket]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercia...4-CE/205727789

this is the one I have, it seems a little small in the pic but in person it looks like the perfect size. They have a nice cover also that has a gasket once screwed down not like when ur always fighting the stock cover trying to get it closed or screwed down. Both home depot and lowes carry these.

[jmansracerocket]

getting close to ordering a fuel tank for herbie, im thinking this nice should be just right for me. Its has more fuel capacity then stock, and I will be ordering it with a internal baffle and a fuel guage. They even have the option with there quick disconnect 1/4 fuel line with shutoff which I will probally order also so it will be a complete set. Once I get it then il be able to make my own rack all over again. Hoping by the end of next week to order it.

http://shop.spunaluminumgastanks.com...llon-M814C.htm

[jmansracerocket]

with the new tank option how many of you switched ur petcock from 90 degree turn to a straight petcock ? im researching which petcock to order with the tank, either way im also looking for something with a 1/4 nipple to match the 30mm carb setup that I will be running in the future with 1/4 fuel line.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-F...p2054897.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MINI-SPACE-S...p2054897.l4275

[jmansracerocket]

well since im waiting on my fuse panel I decided to order the fuel tank while im at it! Just ordered the 2.5 gallon bam spun aluminum fuel tank, with an internal baffle and gas gauge so lots of goodies should be coming at the end of the week.

[scjeep4.7HO]

I have my original tank off my new hammerhead 150 that they just warranty replaced. It leaked at the seam but it you want it you can have it for shipping, maybe you can repair it.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO

I have my original tank off my new hammerhead 150 that they just warranty replaced. It leaked at the seam but it you want it you can have it for shipping, maybe you can repair it.

sorry I don't need it I still have the stock tank and now I just ordered this aluminum one. Just ordered some flat stock so I can make brackets for the tank, electric box, cargo rack, and im going to make plates for under my feet while driving the floor board seats below the pedals making it a pain for comfort for hitting the gas and brake as ur foot cant rest. With that I also need to take apart the wiring for the horn because that sits to low off to the right which is between my ankle and knee cap plan is to cut it out and move It to the left of me and a lot higher, so it will be easier to access and my leg wont be rubbing up against it.

[jmansracerocket]

sold the yerf dog today, and received my 8 gang fuse panel today. Went threw the hammerheads frame and cut off more of the wire tabs off that are just rusting. Also got the stock battery tray cut down to fit my little battery just waiting on the fuel tank and some flat steel stock. While I was at it I ripped apart the main wiring harness from the ignition. the hammerhead is a key start but also has a kill switch which to me is kinda a waste to have to kill choices. So ripped off the old year old wire loom that came from the factory that was completely wrapped with electric tape what a pita. PLan is to try to mount the horn button up in the slot where the push kill button is. Or I might just delete the horn stuff completely because I really don't use.

[jmansracerocket]

love the 1 pound battery and its size, once the steel comes I will make walls around it but the base is done.


going to be tricky to cut out a whole where the red kill switch is for the horn button il try to think of a way.


the 2x4s on the floor is where im going to weld in the foot rests for gas and brake pedal

[jmansracerocket]

a little update on the wiring. Its been very time consuming for me, between ordering wire connectors, then having to order wire loom, then recently having to order 22 gauge wire for the trail tech and wideband because there wires need to be extended. Made a phone call to john because the key switch had two grounds on it and was tied into everything up front and was totally throwing me off. John recommended just cutting everything out and starting over. After talking to him for a little while I finally decided to cut a lot of crap out and starting running power wires for each item and grounds. Its been taking me a lot longer then I expected but I feel like the end result will be well worth it. Il have to get more pics up soon as im about 80 percent done with the wiring now. When I started to run the the main power and ground wire for the battery I wasn't 100 percent satisfied with the battery stock location with it being close to the exhaust and wires. So I cut it out and now have it mounted on top of the rear swing arm brace. Just have to weld it in place and its further away from the exhaust and stays away from being low to the ground so a win win. Installed a new light switch just going to run regular lights so I deleted the high beams, john had also recommended trying led bulbs so that might be later on. The pic below is everything I pretty much got rid of.

[jmansracerocket]

made the brackets to hold the electric box it sits higher then stock and I have a lot more room inside the box. 8 gang power block and 12 spots for ground.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

cool hope everything is working out.
if you need any ideas for the dash or wiring i thought of this....
http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...4&postcount=86

[jmansracerocket]

some more good stuff, spent the last 2hours going threw some stuff. John the 2 small wires I put one to power and the other one to key switch start. I tried the ground first it didn't work. Everything else is a go! not bad this was my first full rewire and I am very happy with the outcome. I have 4 power spots left but 2 more are going to be taken up once I receive my wire. The trail tech is going to get a spot and the wideband will get the other. Still nice because that still leaves me with 2 mores spots open once im officially done. For the dash I have nothing fancy at all, Im thinking of just cutting the extra slot off that I have or maybe cut the whole thing off and make it a sealed dash like some others have done. Tomorrows goal is to hopefully get the new fuel tank rack made up and attach the brake light to it so I can wire that also.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

this was the pic i was thinking of

[jmansracerocket]

well time for another update, I received my spun aluminum fuel tank and have been spending a lot of time trying to decide on a new fuel rack/cargo rack. I was almost done making one for the stock one so I had to start all over. Spent a lot of time last week cutting the square tubing and making the mount bars for the tank. Today I was able to do some more work and finish welding in the little cargo area I made and making 2 tabs for holding the the rear side of the rack. Also welded in the driving/brake light. This setup took a lot of time measuring, re measuring trying to decide how big and how long to make it. I think its going to turn out real nice once its done and painted. Tomorrow im hoping to have it 100 percent done including the wiring for the rear light. Its light weight and compact and I can carry a small tool box with me that I just like to have on board if im deep into the trails and just need a tool or zip tie or just something silly.

[jmansracerocket]

small update, the cargo rack is in, all welded up, just have to finish up wiring the brake/ driving light. Next weekend shooting for welding in battery box, and foot blocks for pedals.

making sure it was level





its the perfect size for me I can carry a little tackle box with me with some tools, zip ties, and clamps hey u never know, my trails go a couple of miles deep.

[liduno]

Looking good man.

[JERSEYDEVIL]

nice

[jmansracerocket]

Thank you liduno, it's hard getting the time I don't know how some of the guys do it. Work mon - Friday, house chores, and trying to get the mustang ready for some track time before the season is over. I try to spend a couple of hours on it each weekend. Starting to get the itch to ride it now that it's getting there.

[jmansracerocket]

I forgot to add the tank is nice and light compared to the stock one but the dam straps I think are heavier then the tank, go figure.

[Sngmac]

The tank and new rack look great! When do you think the first ride's gonna happen?

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by Sngmac

The tank and new rack look great! When do you think the first ride's gonna happen?

thanks steve, if nothing pops how this weekend I should get a lot done on it. Wire the brake light, make the foot rests, weld them in, weld the battery box in, extend the wire and hook up the trail tech, I probally wont get to the wideband install. Then I can hook up carb and hoses, and pour some 93 octane in and see what happens lol.

[jmansracerocket]

got a late start on the hammerhead today but, the trail tech now has its own power wire and the brake light is wired up. Pics will probably come tonight. I took the brake light apart and cut the ground wire off the casing that holds the bulb and soldered my own ground wire on and now also has its own ground. going to the box. So just finished these 2 things and ran out of 1/4 wire loom . Just ordered a 100 foot roll. I have to make the foot rests now, and hopefully get the battery box welded in.

[jmansracerocket]

huge update, have a taida b block engine coming for herbie ! cant wait.

[wildbob]

Right on! Those B blocks can be built up like crazy.. You're gonna have a monster!

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by wildbob

Right on! Those B blocks can be built up like crazy.. You're gonna have a monster!

yes I see they can be built to a 232cc but I went with a very reliable setup instead. 63mm bore with a 3.5 stroker, taida performance head, t-100 camshaft, taida oil cooler. I bought some different size sliders and rollers also to play around with tuning the cvt. I will post some pics when the engine comes.

[Sngmac]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

yes I see they can be built to a 232cc but I went with a very reliable setup instead. 63mm bore with a 3.5 stroker, taida performance head, t-100 camshaft, taida oil cooler. I bought some different size sliders and rollers also to play around with tuning the cvt. I will post some pics when the engine comes.

Sounds sweet
Is that the two or four valve head?? How much HP should a motor like that make?
What does the stock motor make?

[wildbob]

I think the stock ones make about 9HP. God only know what that bad boy is gonna put out..

[scjeep4.7HO]

That should be really fun.

[jmansracerocket]

well just finished talking to the builder the past 2 days. I didn't go threw with it because the 63mm taida short case is actually a bored/ cut case which I was not informed about. yes it has the 57mm stud spacing but I didn't like what I saw in the pics he sent me. Im back to the drawing board and winter is around the corner might have to wait till next year.

[jmansracerocket]

well changing my mind I like do my underwear. Might pick up a 250cc dazon to do a swap.

[jmansracerocket]

a little update the dazon 250cc swap idea feel threw kept asking for more pics and I kept getting the run around. I think im going to keep it gy6 style and put a 232cc taida long case in. Wont start the project though till winter is over.

[jmansracerocket]

I might be playing with some seat options this winter, might look into a kirkey seat for herbie. I realized the stock seat points upward, the front bar mount seats about a 1 inch or 2 higher then the rear. Also the seat kinda has a little to much tilt back for my liking. With that I will be also looking into a 4 point harness seat belt. Hmmmmm decisions.

[SYCARMS]

I ordered one of the Summit $150.00 all vinyl sportsman seats with 5 point harness. The seat is way more forgiving on ones back than the Kirkey seat. The 5 point harness saves your head and neck in cases of rollover.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

I ordered one of the Summit $150.00 all vinyl sportsman seats with 5 point harness. The seat is way more forgiving on ones back than the Kirkey seat. The 5 point harness saves your head and neck in cases of rollover.

U had the kirkey seat in your buggy? did you have the cover on it with the cushions?

[SYCARMS]

Yes and I added 1" more padding. It was just too jarring on my back, but than again I'm not as young as I sometimes think. Those seats are OK for cars since they have more of a suspension.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Yes and I added 1" more padding. It was just too jarring on my back, but than again I'm not as young as I sometimes think. Those seats are OK for cars since they have more of a suspension.

Good to know because I was going to do the same thing and add 1 inch of padding. Couldn't have been worse then the yerf dog spider box seats though ??

[jmansracerocket]

very long overdue work has started. Had lots of ideas going threw my head over the months on the frame. Wanted to shorten the roll cage and have the front come down and meet the tubing right above the steering rack like a dazon single seater and blade. Next I wanted to extend the front end of the frame with out sacrificing turning radius. By extending the leg room it will make it a much more roomy ride. Nothing to crazy about a 5 inch extension. Also with this the stock location of the master cylinder could have been pushed forward another inch so I should get about 6 more inches total of leg room. The cage is also going to get reworked a little, the roof will be welded shut no more holes , or nuts and bolts. I purchased a new set of head lights that are square and led so will have to decide where to mount those. I ordered a kirkey seat today with the vinyl cushion wrap, and seat brackets. I ordered the aluminum pro street in the wide version. I'm probably going to put another 1inch or maybe 2 of bed memory foam for more cushion. Also been going over the cage noticing just a few little spots just need a clean up weld. Have a new master cylinder coming also, the stock one was kinda sticking. Have a new floor pan for it also just have to cut the old one out hopefully today.

[jmansracerocket]

[EVILWS6]

I like the single seat buggies. I have never see any around here. It would probably remind me of driving the old Honda Oddessy atv's when I was younger. Those were a blast.
There was a couple of the Coolster 250 single seat buggies for sale not too long ago. I almost bought them. But I already have too many buggies and I'd like to stay married.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by EVILWS6

I like the single seat buggies. I have never see any around here. It would probably remind me of driving the old Honda Oddessy atv's when I was younger. Those were a blast.
There was a couple of the Coolster 250 single seat buggies for sale not too long ago. I almost bought them. But I already have too many buggies and I'd like to stay married.

I personally love this single seater buggy. The thing is with the 150cc they where actually designed for scooters first. Me personally there under powered to be carry 2 people. Between the extra weight of a buggy, and you have 4 wheels to rotate vs 2 in a scooter in stock form the engine does work pretty hard for a 150cc. The single seater has a cool cockpit feel to it which I like and the weight is distributed in the center vs when having a 2 seater. I never got a chance to own a Honda odyssey or pilot. I think they are very cool machines but a lot of people I talk to say the parts aren't easy to come by. Ones that are in mint condition bring in some nice coin. Ones that need work still seem kinda high in price near me. I actually have a 250cc coolster for sale by me that I have looked at and negotiated with but I cant seem to tell my self to stop working on my hammerhead. I already have brand new wheels and tires on mine, and all the electric work is done. I love the gy6, parts are all over the place, reasonable and there decent with some head and cam work. I do hopefully plane on getting a engine built again for it, but I want to get the frame done. My seat will be here Thursday so hopefully by weekend a new floor will be welded in and a seat will be mounted, and more of the cage work will be done.

[x-bird]

you're at the perfect point to ditch that front strut setup and put a widened quad front end on it. = longer travel, better brakes & components, better shocks, better rims/tires .....

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by x-bird

you're at the perfect point to ditch that front strut setup and put a widened quad front end on it. = longer travel, better brakes & components, better shocks, better rims/tires .....

x I honestly wouldn't know where to start with a quad front end swap. I already welded in the new front leg extension bar. I went 5 more inches I think its plenty I can pretty much extend my legs all the way and still have room for the master cylinder. The entire floor pan has been cut out. I'm going to go with mounting tabs for the floor rather then a weld in floor. Would be nice to have a removable floor just in case. I welded a couple spots up front that had a little gap from factory so sealed those shut. I received the seat yesterday. I sat in it on the floor I'm very happy I went with the wide version because it gives me room to add extra padding now and still holds me in place with the side walls but also has some room on both sides. Cant wait to get the seat installed. I'm still trying to drill out the threaded slugs that where in the main center bar to have the top roll cage bars come down and meet at that location.

[jmansracerocket]

[jmansracerocket]

[jmansracerocket]

Well i ordered the seat with the brackets and looks like il be making my own mounting points. Just test fitting this seat looks cool and is roomy in the buggy. Hopefully tomorrow il have it set in. Still lots of work to do.

[jmansracerocket]

Just ordered a 5 point harness seat belt to match the seat.

[jmansracerocket]

ive been slacking a little here with the project. So some update, the main cage is done and welded in. Seat has been fitted, and mounted. Next step is to get the positioning and length of the pedals set and welded in. Most likely going to move the main front tube back 1.5 inches. hoping to get to some of it this week.

[jmansracerocket]

got some work done yesterday, I cut out the front part of the frame again, and was able to shorten in 2.5 inches. I still have plenty of leg room after tons of testing where to mount the pedals. The pedals are just tack welded for now. I think it looks good with the front bar shortened, I thought it stuck out to far and my last design so very happy.

[SYCARMS]

Looks much better shortened. You don't want it too far out in front of the tires.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Looks much better shortened. You don't want it too far out in front of the tires.

yes, I like it much better now then what I had it.

[jmansracerocket]

did some work on the buggy today, the quick release wheel hub came in today, said it wasn't going to be here till tomorrow so I couldn't wait. Took out the steering shaft, used the metal chop saw and had to cut the flange off the shaft so I could slip the new one on. The stock steering wheel worked with the hub, which saved me money on a new wheel, all I had to do was drill the mounting wholes slightly bigger, the threads where also slightly bigger on the new wheel hub, love having tons of nuts and bolts on hand, I was able to slap new bolts and washers on. Once I had the new quick release hex welded on the shaft, I couldn't mount the stock location of the steering shaft loop back on! So I had to cut that off and reposition it, and weld that back on and she fits mint now. Not bad for an hours work of fabricating. All and all I love the fact that it makes getting in and out so much nicer now, the only thing I would say I'm not completely happy with is that theres a little bit of sloop in the hex and the hub itself, but not terrible and I'm sure it wont bother me once I get this thing going. Also forgot to add that having the quick release setup is great for theft! good luck steering it if you try to steal it is what I tell myself.

[jmansracerocket]

also finished welding up the front end, well most of it, pedal bar is welded in now, and the front end brace is now fully welded in.

[jmansracerocket]

went around the rest of the buggy, cleaned up some welds, and some little spots I forgot about, even though theres still a bunch left to do. And for some reason I decided to cut off the ignition key dash area off. think I'm going to make something on both sides of the steering wheel. This way I have a dash on both sides of me that I can see.

dash gone


il think of something just took a pic like this to get an idea

[Sngmac]

Looks super clean, awesome work on the frame and steering!

[SYCARMS]

Herbie is looking good, I would get rid of the key switch and go with waterproof toggles. I have decided that my next project to my single seater will be a new reinforced roll cage and where the useless rear view mirror is mounted to where it only functions as a tool for putting on makeup which I do not partake, I will mount all my switches to top front of roll cage running the wires through and down roll cage.

[ckau]

Oh yea! toggles are the way to go! Very dependable, A whole lot cheaper than a key switch. Easy to use and simple to wire. I can post up a wire diagram if your going this route. In the pic, red is ignition and yellow is starter. The indicator lights are optional. their just convenience.
.....and we're glad to hear Tom stopped using make- up!

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by Sngmac

Looks super clean, awesome work on the frame and steering!

thank you steve, a very good $30 dollar investment.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Herbie is looking good, I would get rid of the key switch and go with waterproof toggles. I have decided that my next project to my single seater will be a new reinforced roll cage and where the useless rear view mirror is mounted to where it only functions as a tool for putting on makeup which I do not partake, I will mount all my switches to top front of roll cage running the wires through and down roll cage.

getting rid of the key wouldn't be a bad idea. I have to check my key ignition again, I know for a fact it has 3 connections on the back of it. So not sure which toggle switch I would actually need but I'm sure il figure it out. I can say welding up the cage so far feels good just pushing it around, but wont really now till I get riding again. I personally don't mind the mirror its kinda nice to have in case ur riding with someone and they get in trouble or break down and there behind you u can at least see them in you rear. Tucking the wires threw the cage will be nice, but then you drilling a hole in the frame, I'm eliminating all the holes in the frame as we speak. With tucking the wires in the frame though will be a very clean look.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by ckau

Oh yea! toggles are the way to go! Very dependable, A whole lot cheaper than a key switch. Easy to use and simple to wire. I can post up a wire diagram if your going this route. In the pic, red is ignition and yellow is starter. The indicator lights are optional. their just convenience.
.....and we're glad to hear Tom stopped using make- up!

my key switch has 3 connections on the back side of it so il try to get pics on it tomorrow. gotta make the dash also.

[jmansracerocket]

do I need a specific flip switch for ignition/ start ?

[ckau]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

do I need a specific flip switch for ignition/ start ?

If you are not going to use the optional pilot light then all you need is a on/off flip switch. if you are wanting to use the pilot then a single throw, double pole on/off flip is needed. These pics show the difference between the two types of switches and a wiring schematic. if not using the light substitute the switch for a on/off flip

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by ckau

If you are not going to use the optional pilot light then all you need is a on/off flip switch. if you are wanting to use the pilot then a single throw, double pole on/off flip is needed. These pics show the difference between the two types of switches and a wiring schematic. if not using the light substitute the switch for a on/off flip

ty ckau, I think I have to use the double pole.

[jmansracerocket]

this is what the key wiring looks like. Also where do you purchase your switches from?


the black and white wire goes to the cdi, the green and yellow connects to one side of the starter solenoid, and that green wire is ground.

[jmansracerocket]

ckau, I'm reading and trying to figure out the diagram u posted but its a little confusing. if I switch to just a single pole switch, I run a power wire to one side of the switch and then another line to the starter solenoid? but running that other wire to a starter solenoid does that connect to one of the thin wires coming out of the solenoid? Then I'm guessing I delete the black and white wire that connects to the cdi? My green and yellow wire in the pic connects all the way to the starter solenoid, where it meets and connects to 1 of those 2 thin wires coming out the starter solenoid. The other thin wire out of the starter solenoid connects to power.

[ckau]

I see what you have . your key switch is controlling the ground side of the system only. No big deal. if you can hold out till tomorrow, I'll post a diagram using what you have.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by ckau

I see what you have . your key switch is controlling the ground side of the system only. No big deal. if you can hold out till tomorrow, I'll post a diagram using what you have.

ok, yeah I'm in no rush, I still have tons of welding to do anyway lol.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by ckau

I see what you have . your key switch is controlling the ground side of the system only. No big deal. if you can hold out till tomorrow, I'll post a diagram using what you have.

any luck ckau? would like to change it to a toggle switch if possible.

[ckau]

Sorry J-man I thought I had sent this last night.
Run a dedicated ground wire from the rear terminal box, Don't depend on chassis or any other wire for a ground source. You'll need a 12v hot wire to power the indicator lights so while your running wire do both, it will insure a dependable circuit and give you a power point in the dash for future accessories.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by ckau

Sorry J-man I thought I had sent this last night.
Run a dedicated ground wire from the rear terminal box, Don't depend on chassis or any other wire for a ground source. You'll need a 12v hot wire to power the indicator lights so while your running wire do both, it will insure a dependable circuit and give you a power point in the dash for future accessories.

ok my head is spinning lol, to do a toggle style start system I would need 2 toggles then which is shown in your diagram? I'm guessing the first toggle is to activate the solenoid, then once the 2nd switch is flipped it will crank ? The first toggle is a single pole single throw, and the 2nd toggle will be a double pole single throw. I know I can buy toggle switches from auto zone or advanced, but I know they don't always carry the stuff I need. Also coul you tell me where you get the light indicators ? thank you again.

[SYCARMS]

If you buy your switches from auto zone or advanced buy a couple of each to keep in buggy as spares, or you can get the waterproof switches from either Summit Racing or Jegs and not have to worry about corrosion or breakage.

[jmansracerocket]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

If you buy your switches from auto zone or advanced buy a couple of each to keep in buggy as spares, or you can get the waterproof switches from either Summit Racing or Jegs and not have to worry about corrosion or breakage.

Thanks tom, im going to check what the stores have, i rather get a quality switch on the first purchase.