My Spiderbox

[2SlickNick]

True.... I will be getting a 5 point instead for sure

[ckau]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

The main message here is always wear at least a DOT approved helmet, quality seat belts and arm restraints. You may go through life never needing them but all it takes is one time to spoil the whole rest of your life.

I whole heartily agree!
Add to that... Those who don't take advantage of all the safety equipment available are those who haven't been injured YET!
If you mess around with these buggies long enough ,it's not a matter of "IF", it's a matter of "WHEN" !!!
And when considering arm restraints? .. the first instinct when in a roll over is put a arm out in a futile attempt to catch yourself. It takes a conscience effort and steady nerve to NOT let go of that wheel! I've witness several injuries occurred by people not paying attention to this instinct. Smashed fingers, sprained wrists, and broken bones, etc. Your not going to stop a 400+lb buggy from going over but you will try!
You don't want the cheap restraint that loop around the steering column.
You DO want the more expensive type that are incorporated into the belt latch.
Reasoning being, the loop type are effective but have to be undone Before your able to release the belt. you may not be able to reach you belt latch without removing them first. you may be able to release the belt but your still tethered to the buggy.
The latch types are released with the same motion required to release the belts. Releasing the belt latch lets the whole system fall free.
IMO.The whole discussion of what is needed or not is mute. I've heard it numerous times. " I should have worn this or I wished I had that" I've never heard some one say "This stuff got me hurt !"

[bear]

Just remember that you have to think of your safety equipment as any other part of your buggy, you want the best parts you can get for both your buggy and your safety! and Tom & ckau, very well said!

[TheFauxFox]

So the other day I ordered some HD ball joints, rack booties and tie rod ends, and as of now I've tried (unsuccessfully) to remove the old BJs and...they don't have a snap ring. Trust me I looked it over very carefully, NONE AT ALL. idk how to get it out. Help

Nevermind. I found the little bastards.... I managed to get two off with "ease" (gotta remember, they're c-clips, its never gonna be easy) and I little had to cut off one other with the angle grinder (careful not to mess up the a-arm tabs). I still have one more where the c-clip isn't even raising at all...so I might have to cut it as well...oh well. 3/4 is good right now. I forgot to mention that everything came today. So I have one tie rod end on one side of the rack, and the other (old) end won't come off... :/ Still working on it. One project sitting in the vice the other on the work bench. Life is good

[TheFauxFox]

Alright. So I technically got 3/4 ball joints off, but none of the a-arms mounted have ball joints in them...

So I got 2/4 c-clips off somewhat easily. And 1/4 I managed to cut off the top of the ball joint and slide the clip off...the other one.... well....
I couldn't even get the c-clip to budge, so I go to cut the top off like the last one, and lo and behold, I cut too low and essentially fuse the c-clip to the bj body. Well great. Now what do I do? I can't cut it because it's too close to the a-arm tab. So I go to by parts I got with the kart and there we go. One fresh top right a-arm (albeit with its balljoint still mounted). So I manage to pry THAT ball joint off and just swapped out the a-arms. So lesson learned. Don't cut the ball joints off.

I also managed to only get one new tie rod end in as only one was able to be taken out atm. Well, its been quite a day so I'm loggin' off. talk to y'all later!

[SYCARMS]

Kroil oil is a mechanics best friend. It smells similar to PB Blaster but reacts to rust and will even dissolve red loc tite . Don't know where to purchase since it's a commercial pennetrant. I have a gallon from when I worked at the airlines. I have a small lighter fluid can I use for it, and one can has outlasted 3 cans of PB Blaster. I have found nothing it won't penetrate. All I know is it is made in Tennessee.

[TheFauxFox]

Wow! Good to know! Thanks, SYC

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Kroil oil is a mechanics best friend. It smells similar to PB Blaster but reacts to rust and will even dissolve red loc tite . Don't know where to purchase since it's a commercial pennetrant. I have a gallon from when I worked at the airlines. I have a small lighter fluid can I use for it, and one can has outlasted 3 cans of PB Blaster. I have found nothing it won't penetrate. All I know is it is made in Tennessee.

Tried the candle melting trick with no success. :/

I can't get enough leverage and I'm using vice grips because I don't h e the right wrench. The vice grips work fine on the nut but I can't get enough leverage holding the rod arm still.

Edit: IDK why I didn't think of this to begin with but I just sprayed a TON of WD40 in there. Like 10 mins ago. Let it settle in, go back for another try and NOPE. Nothing moves. I feel like I might need some rust dissolver like SYC was talking about....oh well.

btw found the oil http://kanolabs.com/

[zman007007]

fox try finding you a pipe that will fit over the handle of the vise grip too use for more leverage.

[zman007007]

take some wire or an old belt to fasten the arm to the buggy so you are not having to hold it too.

[x-bird]

like i said over on bn, i'm pretty sure you've got a left hand thread that you're tightening the living daylights out of. try going to the right.

[TheFauxFox]

My dad brute forced it. Got it out. He REALLY HIT IT with a hammer then preceded to remove it. LOL

We got the HD ball joints on today. Re-mounted the steering rack with locking washers to prevent wiggle movement, haven't quite gotten the tie-rods attached to the spindles, but will do tomorrow. Very happy with front end progress! Now back to the reverse... (pics tomorrow).

[SYCARMS]

When all else fails get the 5lb. hammer.

[TheFauxFox]

haha SYC! When I used the hammer, I hit it pretty hard, but was afraid to bend the tie rod. My dad was just like "BAM BAM BAM" and then just unscrewed it like nothing. At least its off

Here are the promised pictures:




Got booties on the rack. Didn't take pics of the tie rod ends as they are just tie rod ends.

[disstudem]

When in doubt, hammer it lol. Glad you got it out. Looking good. I was thinking about your cloth roof when i came across colored 1/8 inch rolled plastic on the speedway motors website. Great price. Thought you might be interested in checking it out.

[SYCARMS]

I should have given credit where credit is due, so let me reiterate my last post.
When all else fails get DAD with the 5lb. hammer. Dads can be a pain at times but when needed they are worth their weight in gold.lol I know this cause I'm a DAD.

[bear]

Yea, just ask my daughter!!! but as you know Tom, the two best words in the english language are "hey dad"!!!

[SYCARMS]

I don't ever get "hey dad" instead I get " hey I got a question" to which I answer ask me next month.

[TheFauxFox]

Haha, SYC! I hammered, but was a bit afraid of bending it. When it doubt, call dad. Ask him if you'll break it if you hit it too hard. If he says no, respond with "you'll pay for it if I break it then?" If he stands by his word he'll say yes. Then HAMMER AWAY. That's what happened when I went to put the belt back on the cvt. The clutch wouldn't budge and I was gonna yank that sucker till it slid over the clutch but was afraid to break it. Asked dad, he responded with "no way. You can't break it." "You'll pay for it if I do?" "Sure"

PULLLLLLLLL, click. Slid right in. LOL

@disstudem Yea I saw that plastic a while back and then considered body paneling. Then I realized that I have things that I actually need to work on. Like the reverse

[disstudem]

Lol fauxfox, i would also work on the reverse first then worry about body panels. Nice looking body panels will not make it go backwards thats for sure

[TheFauxFox]

haha disstudem! Since I had the front end off today and some nice spray paint left over from my roll cage painting, I painted the front bulkhead/a-arms. 3rd coat is drying. I'm gonna do some quick touch-ups later and tomorrow I'll mount it back on and see what I can do with the reverse. My parents won't let me do some of the reverse stuff alone, so I think it's getting postponed to next weekend...

Will upload pics tomorrow

[TheFauxFox]

Before Paint:


Taped off ball-joints so nothing gets inside of them (just a precaution):


Primer on everything (except the main ball joint body):




Finished with 3 coats:

Also, I covered the joints because I wanted the contrasting colors of the joints:

[zman007007]

great job there fox

[disstudem]

Looks killer

[TheFauxFox]

Thanks! Just put it on 30 minutes ago. Looks nice.

Later this afternoon I'm going to add the quick connect "bullet" snap connectors to my electrical stuff.

Right before I mounted it on the kart:


Detail:


It's on:


Different Angle:

[SYCARMS]

Looking good.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Looking good.

Thanks! After uploading and painting I googled "spiderbox paint" just to see what others are doing and found somebody on the buggy-depot forums that did the EXACT same paint job back in '09 for a high-school grad project. LOL

[disstudem]

Oh no kidding eh. I was thinking black and cherry red for my buggy also, but i dont now lol. No offence, yours Looks good. Just seems like a common color.

[bear]

Yea I was lucky enough to get the red "industrial" paint for mine left over from a work project! now I've got ahold of some official "Ford oval" blue for my blue one, so it will be getting a new paint job, after this season!!!

[TheFauxFox]

Nice! I'd love to get some nice, cherry red metal fleck paint and do that, but we all know that ain't gonna happen...

[disstudem]

That will look real sharp bear. Fauxfox you have other priority's with yours right now any way. Ya cherry metal flake would look bad a,,

[TheFauxFox]

Alrighty so today is gonna be the last time I try jerry-riggin the reverse. After that I'll just suck it up and buy a cable...

[jmansracerocket]

just buy the cable all the time u have spent trying to rig it up isn't worth the time imo, but a new good cable and be done with it.

[TheFauxFox]

That's what I think I'm doing...tbh I just figured out how to jerry rig it WITH the adjuster (I just have to slide the cable into the housing, but as I never go to the bike shop today to get another cable I think i"ll just end it and order a REAL ONE. LOL

[disstudem]

Any updates?

[TheFauxFox]

Planning on buying the cable soon, have to talk with my dad about it, he's practically at work everyday (noon to midnight) so it's hard. I'm trying to get there, though!

[TheFauxFox]

LOL just ordered the cable.

Immediately after I wrote that, I realized my dad was actually home now (DOH) and I said "hey can we talk about the reverse cable?" and he responded "you mean the one we need to buy" and then I said "yep glad we're on the same page. I'm off the get it."

Went to gopowersports and got it for 29$. Cheaper than the 35$ I INITIALLY SPENT on the bike cable. What a mess that was... Sadly the buggy masters coupon code expired april 30.. oh well.

So far I have almost 70$ put in this damn cable ALONE. I should have done it correctly from the start... And if I can't creatively route the 61" cable around the kart (I only need 50") than I'll just re-mount the shifter 11" further away. LOL

[disstudem]

Lol fauxfox, glad you were finally able to get a cable. You sound like me, if it don't fit right make it fit lol.

[bear]

Don't sweat it Fox most of us have to "snake" our reverse cables to take up some of the slack!

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by bear

Don't sweat it Fox most of us have to "snake" our reverse cables to take up some of the slack!

Yea, I don't WANT to drill more holes in my frame to remount the lever, but if I run out of routing options (so many I doubt that will happen) I'll just redrill.

diss, that's me. My dad says to stop jamming the round peg in the square hole, and mean while i am making the square hole round enough to fit the round peg!

[TheFauxFox]

Cable came in today! Tonight I'll be working on that to see if I have to route it/getting it "plugged in"

[TheFauxFox]

Nevermind...Started to POUR outside and with the way its set I can't get it out myself...

[disstudem]

Lol Fauxfox..sounds like our dads think alot alike. My dad always told me. Great minds discuss ideas, Averange minds discuss events, small minds discuss people.

[bear]

Oh! let the nail bitting begin! lol

[disstudem]

Fauxfox did you get to mess with that reverse cable yet?

[TheFauxFox]

Still no! ugh... Ya see the my vice grips aren't gripping enough to hold the little piece that holds the cable open for enough time for me to pull out the old cable and put in the new... I need a helping hand, and as of yesterday all helping hands were unavailable and as of today...well today is pretty self explanatory... I wanna get this done so I can give myself permission to look for parts vehicles and check rims/tires/shocks stuff. I wanna email these people so bad and pick up some parts, but I don't have that money and if I need more I'll have spent it already, so its back to waiting for an opportunity to try to swap the cables. But the more I look at this one the more I'm convinced it'll work (I'm assuming its gonna work as all the buggies use this cable LOL)

[disstudem]

I hear ya. Hopefully your dad can give you a quick Hand when hes not busy. Can you hold that piece your talking about with a pair of needle nose pliars? I never messed with one so I wouldnt know

[TheFauxFox]

It requires quite a bit of force to pull it out, and sometimes it doens't budge at all. The needles don't have enough "bite" to them... We'll get it, but with my dad back to work tomorrow and us doing yard work, there isn't much time. I just wanna get this done so can drool over some front tires/shocks and a new trailer

[x-bird]

external reverse boxes are a real bugger in that regard. If the old cable is going in the can, cut the cable, remove the outer half of the reverse box and just take the cable end out of the fork shaft.

[SYCARMS]

Don't know how others do it, all I know is that before I figured a way to do it I created a whole slew of cuss words. You will need some needle nose vise grips. Using a Phillips screwdriver I pry the shaft out using the recess which the cable ball goes in, then setting the vise grips tight to shaft I use them to hold the shaft in the out position while I insert the cable ball in the recess, remove the vise grips and your done. You have to use a good Phillips driver to pry like craftsman for a cheap one will bend. That spring tension is pretty stiff.

[bear]

That's the way I do it! and yes before I figured this way out, I to created a few new "words"!!!

[SYCARMS]

I wonder if between the two of us if there are any duplicates.lol

[x-bird]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

I wonder if between the two of us if there are any duplicates.lol

I think there's a couple hundred buggiers who's invented some choice ones, myself included.

I use the same method but use blunt vise grips to pull on the end of the fhaft then lock a set of needlenose ones on it. It helps to undo all your cable tension ferrules front to back to get as much slack in the cable as possible. i also use a pair of c-clamps on the two halves first to pull them completely together

[bear]

See, all of us "great" minds think alike! lol

[TheFauxFox]

Haha! The first time I used my regular vice grips to hold the edge of it, and then after maybe a couple dozen times or so pulling in and out, the vice lost grip, and then the metal on the edge of that cylindrical thing start chipping away, like it had a protective coating on it (I'm sure it does). So off to go find some quality vices grips. My personal tool kit is one of those 100 piece of $30 type kits that does the job, (sometimes) but leaves more to be desired.... My dad's got some good tools, but no vice grip... Alrighty I'll ask my neighbor if he's got some I can borrow (he tunes up "sleeper" car/modifies pickup trucks so I'm sure he's got something like that....).

[SYCARMS]

Get the Vise Grip brand. Original makers of it and still the best and won' t cost an arm and a leg.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Get the Vise Grip brand. Original makers of it and still the best and won' t cost an arm and a leg.

Just checked out Homedepot.com, looks to be pretty cheap. We'll try to make it work without them, and if all else fails, we'll just get a good pair...

[bear]

Yea a tool is only as good as its usefulness!

[TheFauxFox]

Alrighty I'm sorta calm now... so here's how today went

1) We got the old cable out of the gearbox and the new cable in by using the old cable to pull out the little "inside cylinder" and took my vice grips and they got a much better hold so we quickly swapped the cables out. So now we went on to adjust the cable...

2) We "Creatively" routed the cable and got it hooked up, tightened the front and the back pretty well (not the "bell housing" bit, but we'll get to that in a minute) and it doesn't shift. If I pull the lever back quite far the wheels spin and I get a buncha torque and then it goes backwards () but that's not what it's designed for (duh). So we get on and tighten the "bell housing" piece a LOT and tighten everything else fully, still the same thing.... So we think maybe with the cable still in the lever we can mount the lever farther forewords? Yea that'd be a good idea! So we cut some more of the metal we had laying around that we used for our mount and made a bigger one, mounted the lever further forewords, and still the same thing. This is literally hours of p-a-i-n-f-u-l work compiled into about 2 paragraphs...

3) We're just taking it to the shop. We've exhausted all of our options, and after shifting and hearing some not so good loud bangs coming from the back, we want it to be the shop's fault if they ruin something not to mention we REALLY have exhausted all of our options...

[x-bird]

did you try adjusting the idle? if you have it too high, it won\'t want to go in gear , then when it does, bang!

[TheFauxFox]

Interesting...It actually stalls sometimes when it sits too long so the idle (if anything) needs to go a bit higher... Either that or I should be looking into rejecting...

I found out that we were kind of sorta doing it wrong...we were adjusting the "front and rear" adjustments, where you were supposed to be adjusting the bell housing. We might not have to take it to the shop, but that idea sounds very appealing... I'm just frustrated now...

As for the sudden shift and tire squeal in reverse, I don't think that's normal, is it?

[SYCARMS]

When adjusted correctly, when you put it in reverse you may sometimes have to lightly tap the throttle then you will hear it click into reverse, other times it will go right into reverse. As x-bird said the idle cannot be too high.

[TheFauxFox]

Yea, so my sudden jerk backwards is not good? And because of that I should
1)lower the idle
2)I know it'll stall so I guess I have to rejet the pilot then (?)

[SYCARMS]

Not sure what you consider a sudden jerk. The reverse will not engage like your car does. Since there is no sincro mesh in the unit when you shift into reverse the gears will have to mesh to engage. If your idle is too high it will slam into reverse. With everything adjusted correctly, when you move your lever to reverse you will have to lightly tap the gas to get the gears to mesh. Sometimes you will just move the lever to reverse and it will go right to reverse. It all depends on the lineup of the gears at time of shifting to reverse. Did you check the rev box to make sure it has grease in it?

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Not sure what you consider a sudden jerk. The reverse will not engage like your car does. Since there is no sincro mesh in the unit when you shift into reverse the gears will have to mesh to engage. If your idle is too high it will slam into reverse. With everything adjusted correctly, when you move your lever to reverse you will have to lightly tap the gas to get the gears to mesh. Sometimes you will just move the lever to reverse and it will go right to reverse. It all depends on the lineup of the gears at time of shifting to reverse. Did you check the rev box to make sure it has grease in it?

Rev box? What's that? Yea it slams into reverse and the tires squeal a tiny bit in reverse. I know it's different because when I test drive that crossfire 150r it shifted fairly smoothly.

[zman007007]

rev box = reverse box tada lol

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by zman007007

rev box = reverse box tada lol

oh lol. My brain kinda thought that but not really...

It's got plenty... I'm headed back downstairs to mess with it now, we shall see how it turns out...

Edit: After fiddling with it for a while, I figured it was time to come inside because I kinda have all of my school finals this week (oops...time to study!)

What I learned (about the reverse..heheh) 1) After tightening the front and rear fully (and creatively routing) I have the adjustments perfect, all I need is to adjust the bell housing bit...it's a bit tricky, and I don't want to thread it out too much (out=tighter) because I will have less threads IN the bell piece and it will put more stress and snap... So this is why I want the shop to work on it, and I'm hoping they'll let me watch/helpout so I learn another thing or dozen

'night everyone!

[TheFauxFox]

Just curious about something off topic here... I have a key switch mounted on my little plastic "dashboard" that is attached with zip ties (and flaps everywhere) so I wanted to find a bigger key switch to put where the stock rocker switch is on the steering column... What size thread is the column? I'm not 100% sure how to check that except to thread in bolts (which I don't really have many of)

[TheFauxFox]

So here's what I need help with...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_S_...ature=youtu.be

[SYCARMS]

The 2 halves must be square to each other. What you described as happening is exactly what will happen since the two halves are out of alignment thus causing it to bind.

[TheFauxFox]

So even that 1cm difference will cause it to bind? And would that explain the sudden lurch and tire squeal? Thanks, SYC!

[SYCARMS]

No when you shift it into reverse and all is working you will just have to tap the gas (TAP) and it goes into reverse.

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

No when you shift it into reverse and all is working you will just have to tap the gas (TAP) and it goes into reverse.

Yikes....well I will definitely fix that....

[TheFauxFox]

Today was actually quite the day! I'm leaving for a vacation tomorrow, so I decided that I didn't need to pack anything, I should just work on the Yerf for 4 hours

So, I started off and put on the canvas roof that I made after the nylon one fell apart




And I strapped it on with some velcro zip-ties that actually hold it quite well and work great



And then after that I re-wired the front lights (and put them back on) and used bullet connectors so I can just unplug them if need be... Then I put the front hood on to cover up some of those wires







After I did that I thought that I might as well wire up the brake light, so I did!





This is the connection for the light, I had one bullet connector (ran out) to the negative which ran through the brake switch, and the positive went straight to the battery so I didn't use a bullet.



I didn't take pictures of this (you can't really see a difference in pictures) but I re-aligned the front wheels/steering because I did a half-ass job after I put the front end back on, and then I inflated the tires to see how fast/slow the leak is in the fronts.

So yep. Good day, now I need to go pack. 'later!

[TheFauxFox]

So, after a week, the front driver's side tire held up, but the passenger's side deflated... So they both leak, but one is pretty quick to do so...

We have a trampoline in our backyard that is falling apart, and as a result we're going to get rid of it soon. I thought to myself "hmmm maybe I can use some of that stuff on the kart?" and so I went to work!






About 2 hours later after most of it was broken down, I had this!





Then I used those blue foam protectors that were on the trampoline and did this



LOL I went through two rolls of electrical tape...

Yep. So there we go. A little netting "wind-shield" and some bar pads for free! The pictures make it look like crap but I'm super OCD about this stuff and I think it looks pretty good in real life... Still waiting to work on the reverse with my dad though...

[SYCARMS]

I think it looks great. The most important thing is having a mechanically sound and safe buggy, cosmetics are a personal plus.

[jmansracerocket]

I like the look of the canvas top where did u get the material from??

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

I think it looks great. The most important thing is having a mechanically sound and safe buggy, cosmetics are a personal plus.

I agree, but when mechanical stuff has to wait


I might as well do some cosmetic stuff, especially when it's free!

Edit: Come to think of it, it is somewhat safe; at least those ball-joints were replaced! I don't plan on riding this heavily, so I don't think the a-arms/spindles will be a problem, but if they become one I'll definitely replace them. The rest of it works fine, I just need to get the reverse cable hooked up

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

I like the look of the canvas top where did u get the material from??

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[TheFauxFox]

Working out a deal to pick up some wheels/tires from a guy on CL (here) and I know that I'm going to need some front hubs, but the question is, if these wheels aren't a 4x4 pattern, where do I go from there? IDK where to find the 4x110 hubs for the front if I need, and the funny thing is if it's the opposite and they are all 4x4, I'll need to swap the rear tires onto the current rims to retain the 4x110 rim pattern and rear hubs. At least the tires are the exact same size so I can use the rims! Ugh its a bit of a mess but at least I'm getting a sweet deal on 'em!

[TheFauxFox]

OK so I cannot seem to find any 4x110 wheel hubs that are for the front of anything and I did a bit of research and it looks like Yamahas (where he got the tires from) seem to use 4x110 on the front too (?) Whats up with that? I think I found something wrong there, but we'll see. The only way I'll find out is if I see the tires/wheels myself


I think I figured out what model it is, I found a 125cc Yamaha Grizzly uses the exact same tire size, now to find the bolt pattern...

Yep...all Yamahas use 4x110s. So where do I go now? Do you think I could drill out the rims for the correct pattern?

[zman007007]

what size of bolt pattern do you need?

[zman007007]

it would be hard to drill out the right size holes by hand and not have them wobble

[jmansracerocket]

I remember buying my hubs from ********

[TheFauxFox]

Yea, so I'm gonna need some 5/8 bearing 4x110 hubs for the front...

BMI only has 4x4, and I don't think I'd be able to drill it... I also don't want to go out and spend 60$ ?(per piece) on atv hubs that might not even fit the bearing size I need...

[TheFauxFox]

I'm wondering about just getting the hubs off the parts atv with it and seeing if they'll fit on the spindle with the 5/8'' bearing... Do atvs use the same bearing size?

[TheFauxFox]

After all this and practically spamming the guy with the emails earlier, he managed to sell the back tires too (the only real reason I was in this deal). So no mo tires right now

[TheFauxFox]

So after this deal went a bit awry, I re-examined the kart and what I need to do with it, here is what I need to do...

1) Replace the chain tensioner. I just checked today and it's snapped. Oopsie. I just ordered it and it's on the way

2) Get the damn reverse cable hooked up. I am now not allowed to work on the reverse (thanks, dad) so Grasslands Powersports (nearby shop) is gonna do it...

3) TIRES and SEATBELTS

I'm hoping to get all of this done before my first day of school (aug 11) so I can get a bit of summer riding in

[TheFauxFox]

So my chain tensioner got here, and in the process of taking off the old one, I realized that I can't because the bolt that holds it on the the engine itself cannot slide out of its mounting hole because the chain is in the way. I would just remove the gearbox and move the chain otherwise, but when I put the gearbox on, I didn't use locktite to hold it in, I used jb weld...... Oops. Any suggestions?

[SYCARMS]

You used JB weld to hold what in.

[x-bird]

jb weld on the lucknut ... ouch ... if so, carefully using a small wood chisel, chisel the excess jb off. do not bite into the shaft/threads with the chisel. after that, you're gonna have to use a small metal pick or file to clean the end threads off before trying to loosen the nut

[TheFauxFox]

Yea... I was wondering about using a blow torch we have, but JB weld melts at 650 degrees f, and I feel like that'll mess up the gearbox, and maybe those temps around the GAS TANK is probably a bad idea

[SYCARMS]

The thing that makes JB Weld so effective on metal is it's acidity to etch into the metal for adhesion. An impact air wrench will probably be needed.

[TheFauxFox]

That's what I was thinking... Well we are taking it to the shop because of the stupid reverse cable issue, so maybe they can do that too...

[SYCARMS]

You really need to research first then do it the proper way being patient and not getting in a hurry. If not you will be spending way more then you are trying to save and always working on it instead of enjoying it. Sometimes you just have to wait until you have saved the money for the correct parts or supplies. Cutting corners to save every dollar does not work. I am not talking, trying to sell but I am talking from 40 plus years of experience.

[TheFauxFox]

As of now, I can't really enjoy it anyway as the tires are just not holding any air and I can't drive it on our trail so I'm putting as much work as I can into it; especially before school starts with my AP/honors classes....

This is killing me that I can't ride it though...seriously driving me nuts

[TheFauxFox]

More than a month later and I finally have it back... and $250...


SO! The reverse works! The guy said there was a metal piece in the shaft that pulls out of the gearbox stopping it from working (my lesson for purchasing second hand) so he ground it down, now it works like a charm. I rode it out back, one lap around the 1/2 acre, and reverse and it dies on me. It ran outta gas

BUT

if any of you followed some of my threads, I complained a while back that when my fuel ran out completely, it takes a long time for gas to drip into the lines. I'm afraid there's plastic n garbage in my tank, but that's what the fuel filter is for... So gas is currently dripping into the lines now. I'd like to get a pump/new gas tank but ya know how money goes when your this age... Does anyone else have this gas problem?

I'm also going to go out and spend $3-5 on some brake fluid and bleed/re-fill the brake lines... My pedal is super squishy and the brakes fairly ineffective. The pads are practically rubbing the caliper so I think there are air bubbles somewhere in the line.


BUT ALL OF THAT IS TO COME (plus new shoes in the next few months) Until then, it's riding time in the back woods!

[bear]

Im just glad to hear you finally got some ride time in!!!

[jmansracerocket]

That stock gas tank and gas line was such a poor design try to look for better tank that has a petcock design.

[TheFauxFox]

Now what is the difference? Is the petcock like a shutoff valve/pump? I see on ************* they have this and in total that would come to about $38, which seems to be very similar to me buying an entirely new YD tank and using that with it's same downfalls (fuel spills out the back when fully fueled...ugh what a mess) and the possibility of plastic corroding into my gas (the reason I have a fuel filter, but I still don't want it... I think there's plastic blocking my fuel flow). Anyway the surplus center tank looks like (I haven't checked) it should fit with a bit of cutting the bars away... I think others have done it and I"ll measure to be sure before I make it a plan. But I also need to check hose sizes... I'm pretty sure the YD uses 1/8'' hose, not 1/4 and I'd just get a brass adapter, but ya know.... The simpler the better!

And now I'm going back out to ride it! I'll upload a video of our small riding area later.

[jmansracerocket]

The stock tank yes would always spill out the cap, the stock tank also is small, thats surplus tank I think I know what ur talking about is huge. Try looking for a used one, carter, hammerhead, american sports works, and so on they are 2 gallon tanks with is over a gallon more then the yerfie. A better design with the filtered petcock which u can get a petcock that has a on, reserve, and off valve which is a nice setup and I recommend. For what u have the stock fuel line size will be fine with a filter. Its wasnt to bad cutting and welding the tank in took about an hr with proper tools. Its def a good upgrade. Not to get off topic but u really need to think about beefing up those control arms and spindles they arent safe in the trails.