TK's Kids Yerfdog updates

[SYCARMS]

Looks great.

[tkeagle]

Busy weekend. Was determined to get all this wrapped up. Pretty much got Er done. Took every thing off I was working on. Sanded, painted, and clear coated all the areas I was working on. Sprayed a rubber spray inside the box I made for the front station. Sprayed outside with epoxy, then added some graphics. Everything tucks up really good. Touched up the front control station and did the final mount, and added lock washers. Cleaned up the back wiring. Got everything tight on the block and fitted everything in the box. Sprayed the back cargo rack with the rubber spray this time, since might be able to use it again, and mounted the gas tank. Placed a 90 L off the tank with a shut off value. By end off weekend, was ready to take it out. But to tired to do so. Pretty much all cosmetic. But with the safety features with the block out. However, with the new added light lights, and light bar, should be pretty cool, taking out on night runs.

[SYCARMS]

Looks great, nice and neat.

[tkeagle]

Thanks.
Also, the cheap starter button flew apart while doing all this. So made hole larger, and put a stainless steel one in, instead of that cheap plastic one. Besides running wire through the pipe on top roll cage and from back to front, in that one pic can see I welded some round tubing on frame to run wires through, to keep protected, and just looked better.
Better then having lose wires all over. Even if all tied up. After kids rolled it last time, decided I wanted everything secure much as possible.

[EVILWS6]

Great Job!! Looks very nice.

[tkeagle]

Got pretty much everything wrapped up. Then realized never finished the winch.
Since had block out and electric box in. Figured wouldn't be to difficult. Connected the winch to a 30 amp block, and attached the ground to block also. Fabbed up a bracket for the regulator to the winch bracket. So it will all stay together when not attached. Took advice and placed a toggle switch on positive side. At first not sure where to place it. Then hit me. Still had room in the box. Turned out better then thought. Shorten up the wires, and put a splice on both wires for easy detachment.
Finish up paint touch up. Got fenders back on.
Changed oil.
Pretty sure it's ready for the summer.
Thou, watching the voltage gage. Only shows it keeps around 11.8. At an idle. Seems like not charging like should. Had to jump a few times. But if give some rpm, goes over 12.5.
So maybe just need to get out on trails and open it up.

[SYCARMS]

It should read in the 13v range when running. You could have too much pulling on the stater or possibly a bad rectifier.

[tkeagle]

Ok. Well can't be over powering the sator. Have nothing at all except the engine. Again at idle. When give it some gas, volts jump up. Hoping to get it out soon, and see if going to be charging enough. And if can keep up with light bar. Have turned on all lights at night. At an idle don't seem dim.. and they don't get brighter when give it some gas. Don't know if that's a sign of anything. After last paint I placed, had to move light bar. I noticed something right away. Bar was not constant. Would brighten and dim, following the rpm. The ground was lose. So fixed that, and it fixed the lights.
I've got 11 pole sator. So should be able to keep up. Hope so. Don't think there is anything bigger.

[SYCARMS]

The 11 pole should be plenty. Di you replace the regulator as well?

[tkeagle]

Yes. Got the full kit.
Took it out little bit yesterday. Once fired up and moving, jumped over 13 v. Didn't have much time. But turned on light bar. It stayed over 12 v. Going down the road.
Then turned on the head lights, and went slightly under 12v. But would jump over at times, then go below.
Is that just the nature of sator? Jumping up and down?
Was during the day, so hard to see the readings, continuously. Or this a warning from the regulator going out?
Not sure what changed. But felt like the yerf rode alot smother. Even son said noticed it, saying it rode like 4wheeler.
Could taking that bigger gas tank off, putting a much smaller one on, and relocating it much lower make difference? Also had the winch attached in back. It's got some wieght to it. Some how that extra wieght on the back of buggy, below the shocks, and lighter wieght, and move back on cargo rack, make a difference in the ride.??? Either way, both son and I, noticed a huge difference in the work shocks now.
Maybe weather much warmer? Can't think anything that might make difference. If any of that does at all.
Guess the driver side upper roll bar had pretty good bend in it. Fixed all that. Now don't look like it's leaning on one side.

[SYCARMS]

When the engine is started the voltage should be high 13's to 14 volts. Once the battery is up to charge the voltage should be in the low 13's. When all the lights are turned on voltage should increase to compensate the draw on battery. Problem could be in the stater(most unlikely) or the regulator(more likely) but it can also be a wiring problem such as loose connection or ground.

[tkeagle]

Ok. Thx. Next time I get it out, I'll pay more attention what the voltage is doing. After all the rewiring I did, I made sure everything had a good ground. And know the block out has good ground, which all my grounds are connected to. I put a bolt through the rear frame. 1 8 gage wire from battery to the bolt against frame. On other side of bolt or on "nut side" did same thing going to block. Guess in my mind if one connection goes lose, since both connected to bolt on opposite ends, will always have a ground. At least from engine, and wiring in the back.

[tkeagle]

Think I've finished up what can. Or can do now. Still need to reinforce the bulk head. Just not in mood, to take front end off, and repaint again. Maybe little later. Only other thing is upgrade of engine. Not in mood for it to be down for weeks while doing that upgrade. And not 100 percent sure which way want to go with it. Plus, weather is turning nice. Kids been itching to go play with it. So will see about later.
Final changes, I added some blue led's. In back I had left over. Looked wierd with them just up front. Got 3 sets of leds, that can be switched on and off separately in 3 phases. Upper front, lower front, and back.
I took wiring on winch, cleaned it up. Tied it back, so was not behind rear tire. Took hot glue gun, put extra protection on the wire conections on winch control box.
And sealed up any wires coming out of frame tubing that I couldn't get rubber gourmets in. Thinking might made some kind of slash plate for it, to help protect the winch. Also took cvt cover off. Cleaned up the inside up. Cleaned filter up front, and painted.
I really need to replace passenger seat. The new one I got last year for driver is much more nice. Love how keeps seat belt straps off your neck. And seat cover nice. Little extra padding.
Started working on fl 350 yesterday. Get that going, might go into the engine on the YD.

[SYCARMS]

Looks great. The only thing I see is that winch and battery are vulnerable. I can see many ways they could be destroyed.

[tkeagle]

Ya, the battery in not best place. In same area as old one, just moved to driver side, so can access easier. Used some 1/4 plate for battery tray, for that reason. Might make a top plate for it, for extra protection.
Winch. Ya. Not ideal place. Did what I did for easy detachment. In most cases, won't be on. That thing is so light, really don't need winch. But will be fabbing something up for the FL 350. That thing is heavy.
Got it so, can take winch off, and detach wiring easy, and won't have lose wires hanging out. Only be using winch for certain few things around the farm on the yerfdog.
Prob. Will take it off, once make sure got it all done way I want it.
Tried to fab stuff up so can move winch easily from one buggy to other. Even going to fab up something so can use it on back of my ranger, for deer hunting. Hoist type thing.

[SYCARMS]

The new Joyners have the square receivers on front and rear and winch is mounted to hitch. Pull the pin and move front to rear. Quick disconnect plugs front and rear to get power to the winch and operates with a hand held control which disconnects from winch when not in use.

[tkeagle]

Kind of what I was trying to do.
Forgot how damn heavy that 350 is. been spending last few afternoons working on better mounting brackets for the gas tank for it. Yesterday, I pushed out the YD out in front of the 350, and used winch to pull it out of garage. Hey, what ever works right.
Think going to be working on bracket for the 350 sooner then expected to get winch connected to it. Especially if need to load it on trailer, and get it over to my buddy's shop. Be a lift saver loading the thing up.
For the winch, just got some basic 10 gage wire connections on them. Just flat, female, male connections. Is there something better out there? Like something can clip and twist, or something? Connectors made to be taken on and off, for similar purposes. Anyone know where to get any?

[tkeagle]

Side note: on the winch, should I spray the cable down with WD40 or something, to keep it in good condition? Or does it matter? Thought about that yesterday, but didn't know if would cause other issues.

[SYCARMS]

If you have an electrical store or camper store around you they should have something, or search online. Your looking for a plug with recessed male spades that can be mounted to the frame with matching female plug which will mount to the winch that will accept the 10 gauge wires. As far as the cable it depends on weather it is stainless or not. Once a year I let my cable all the way out soak a rag with WD40 or like then wipe the cable as you retract it. You don't want to soak the cable cause it will just collect dirt. Make sure you wear leather gloves in case there is a piece of wire protruding. Nothing worse than getting stuck by the wire.

[tkeagle]

Got ya. Thx

[tkeagle]

Finally got all together. Kids got to take out for night run. Holy cow, that light bar is really night and day difference. Short video of daughter take her brother for ride.

https://youtu.be/7T5si5S7WAM

Though again, just took the pedal rod from brake, to clean it up. And happened again. No brakes. After half day messing with it, got lines bled out, so had brakes again.

And again, now there was to much brake. Thought had adjusted good, wife took it for a spin. She couldn't go up the hill to get it back. Told her to slam on brakes few times. Finally let lose. Then didn't have any brakes. The brakes was smoking hot. I got frustrated, so took it for spin myself. After about 5 mins, the brakes came back. Guess after it cooled down.
I hates the brake setup for yerfdogs. They always come up to be a pain in the azzzzz!!!
Anyone ever put in another brake setup in a yerf? If so, what was used?

[SYCARMS]

It's not the brake system but a brake problem. It could be a seized caliper, seizing master or collapsed hose.

[x-bird]

think you've got dirt around your caliper piston/s causing it to hang up sometimes. i actually used and copied the yerf setup 3 different times and found it to be pretty decent.

[tkeagle]

Ok. I'll look more into then. I've got 2 extra calipers never used, off old spider cage I bought. So might swap them out, see if fixes it. Thx guys.
Btw, on earlier post, bitching about it not starting, had to hit starter button multi times to get it to start. This weekend, couldn't get it to start with push button at all. I had to cross fire it, with screw driver. Pick a new one today. Installed it. Starts every time now. Ugggg, so called new parts.

[jmansracerocket]

was never a fan of the yerf dog brake system.

[tkeagle]

Looks like that electric box I put in, comes in handy. Got a quick connect for winch. Was trying to figure out how and where going to make bracket. Would need to weld a plate, and drill a 3/4 inches hole in it. Which didn't have drill bit close to size I needed. Going to mount next to box, then hit me, the box already had good size hole in it, with rubber gourmets all around it. Checked out size, and perfect!!!! Saved half day work.
So now which is truly a plug and play. Plug in one connection. Slide in hitch, pulled out, or put in the pin. Done.
Keep finding small stuff to do. Think avoiding pulling starter off the FL 350.
Had a big tool box, wife got for me used years ago.
Check out how much room had on front of trailer. Yep, perfect fit.
Took some angle iron, welded to front for the base. Was going to just bolt it to 4 supports coming up off the 2 basses. Then noticed, the box had over hang. And the supports I had fit perfectly going in about 2 inches or more. So now can just lift the box up over supports, to place or take off. Cup holders come in handy.
Got lock for it. And still will make holes to bolt it to the trailer. Make it so when bolted in, can't take off without opening the box, to get back up on nuts. So if it's locked, can't be moved. Box is big enough to put my welder in. Grinder, drills, Dremel. Gringer disk, full tool box and of coure spare parts, and cup holders. Thinking of insulating a small section, and make cooler as well.

[tkeagle]

Damnit!!! Took out buggy this last weekend, Sunday afternoon. Have had no issues, but the moment got it out, brakes was locking up again. Did everything to try and unlock them. Couldn't do it. I checked all the lines, which only one. Not hard to trace, and didn't find any kinks in it.
Could there be something in the line, that's doing this? Or is just more likely the Caliper?
If Caliper, what do I need to check? take apart? Ect???
If I have a spare one, should I just replace it?
All I know, going to half to bleed it again. Not to happy about that. But guess have no choice.

[Big Rich]

Could it be something around the caliper pistons / seals? Maybe mud or something is physically holding the piston out?

[SYCARMS]

When you apply the brakes pressure is applied to the caliper when you let off the brake pressure is relieved to the caliper. If the caliper is stuck it is stuck until you manually pry the piston back into the caliper. the next time you hit the brakes it will lock. The brake line could have collapsed inside, you won't see that on the exterior. If at that point you break loose the banjo fitting at the caliper and there is pressure it could be a collapsed line. The last thing is if you have no play between brake pedal rod and master cylinder the brakes will seem ok until the brake fluid heats up and expands which will apply the brakes due to the fluid expansion. You should have some play in the pedal to where the pedal will move slightly before activating the master cylinder.

[tkeagle]

Ok. As I stated earlier, the brakes did get hot. The brakes where actually smoking. With that kind of heat, could it collapse the line?

[SYCARMS]

No. What you need to ask yourself is why were the brakes smoking. Naturally we know they were smoking due to being locked up but what caused them to lock up? Could be the caliper seized, a collapsed line not allowing the pressure to release, the master doing the same or a misadjusted pedal leaving no free play in the master for fluid to return when the pedal is released after the brakes naturally heat up. Your only looking at 3 components master, brake line and caliper. One of the 3 is causing your problem.

[x-bird]

my daughters blued the rotor to purple ))) ... told her to take her *Q&%^$# foot off it!
But ditto tom, my bet is still on dirty caliper piston with a nice ring of crud on it. Nearly every caliper in my pile of about 20 or more from buggies to atvs ended up with that issue.

[Danial]

Interestingly enough when this happened to me it was something very basic and mechanical. We had driven the newly semi-restored buggy so much out in the desert over the past few months that the brake pedal ear mounts had kind of wallowed or spread from usage. That and the fact that the throw of the pedal had elongated from use. We tightened up the nut on the front of the brake rod and also tightened the bolt holding the brake pedal to the frame. It fixed all issues.

[tkeagle]

Ya, I went though all of that. And even repainted everything. I've got good slack in the petal for sure.
However, got question. Again, took it out again. Brakes working. Then after about 2 hrs brakes locked back up. Called it a day. The next day was looking at it, and brakes was no longer locked up. So can I determine that it's the caliper if it's doing this? Wouldn't a collapsed line be done? Meaning it cant loosen up on it's own after it cools down?
Or am I thinking wrong on this?

[SYCARMS]

My 78 Cutlas started pulling hard right when I let go of the steering wheel after driving awhile. Let it sit over night it was fine until I drove it again for some time. Replaced the caliper but same problem. Turned out to be a collapsed brake hose. When things heat up with the brakes the line swells inside not allowing the fluid to return and release the caliper. Once cooled down the fluid will slowly release the caliper. Not saying this is your problem but it is something most will not look for unless they have run into this before. When everything is cooled down and you hit the brake and hold the wheels should lock up and when you let off the pedal the wheels should freely spin. This tells you your master and caliper are fine unless of coarse the pedal freeplay is not there. This only leaves the lines to fault. The brake line (hose) is made in layers, the first inner layer, than the support layer which usually used some kind of cord to add some structure than the outer layer to protect the cord layer. They are than moulded together by a heat process. If the inner layer separates from the corded layer pressure is applied to stop vehicle but when you let off the brake the inner layer is sucked in not allowing the fluid pressure to release from caliper. Things you already know is the brakes do stop the buggy when applied. so this tells you the master is good and the calipers are good. When the brakes heat up the brake locks up but free up when cooled down again the caliper is not the culprit. When calipers stick they stick and the only way to unstick is to pry piston back. This happens hot or cold regardless. Same with the master if they stick hot or cold won't matter. You have 2 hoses for the brakes one from the reservoir to master the other from the master to caliper. One of the 2 hoses are collapsed inside I believe.

[tkeagle]

Ok. Thanks man. The short hose, from master to res. Is new. Less then year. However that said, seems to be much softer hose. With some wire spring to protect the outside. Think I've noticed before, looks like that hose, is sucked in right below the res. Or maybe it's kinked, and need to adjust that hose, for better free flow. Will check it out.

[tkeagle]

I meant under master.

[SYCARMS]

Hopefully this solves it.

[tkeagle]

Ran it all afternoon, with no issue on breaks. However now the kill switch is locked up to off position.
But it ran. Then died half way through the track. So guess will just bypass it. Stock kill switch. So guess time to replace. Guess will just go with stock type switch. There just not much room, under steering wheel. And don't feel like drilling bigger hole.
Buggy preformed real well though. Until died.
Had adult friend that couldn't get enough of the buggy. He loved it. He has 50 acres him self. Kept telling his wife we need one of these. I just knew he was going to roll it.
But never did. Guess he listen to my advise, to be carefully around the Conners the center of gravity on that thing sucks. Got a feeling the shocks helped.
It even handled 2 full adults pretty good. About 500lbs between both of them. Impressed even me. Never had that much wieght in it at once before.
Thought maybe shocks would be to stiff. But after watching them preform that day, think they a perfect match.

[tkeagle]

Omg. My starter switch and kill switch went out at same time. Had me puzzled like crazy. I couldn't get it to fire. Was not getting spark to the plug. Thought was coil or cdi. I had spare of both. And nothing worked. Was getting frustrated. Finally at end of day, figured it out. I had wire jumped between the 2 wires on kill switch. Took it off to look maybe for bigger wire. Then forgot about it. Friend came by, and we check the spark again. Got fire. Then realized that the kill switch is to kill the engine. Not GIVE it fire.

[SYCARMS]

The kill switch is a normally open switch. Coil positive goes to one side of switch and the other side of switch goes to ground. When the kill switch is closed the pos. side of coil is grounded which causes spark to go to ground thus killing engine. So by jumping the kill switch terminals together you basically made the kill switch. Glad you got it figured out. Something I doubt you'll ever forget.

[tkeagle]

Almost made it through weekend, with no issues. Then on last day, in afternoon, a friend of our, adult, rolled the yerf. Was like damn!!! Just got it all going good.
In previous post, showed where it bent the spindle. This was the other side now. Bent it the exact same way as the other one. Yes, was a heavy duty one. So will contact BD on it. Really think need to weld a gusset on the side where keeps bending. However, need enough room so can get a wrench on the bolt. So will need to be careful with that.

Also, since would half to take off one side of front end. Decided to take off both, and reinforce the bulk head, like most ppl do. Looking at it, and seen had another issue.
The plate that is welded to bulk head, that holds the steering box, is in really bad shape. Should be welded in all 3 connection points. Only one weld holding it on, and bent pretty bad.
Don't think this because of just this roll. Been getting worse as its been rolled multi times. Which should have checked each time. When that spindle bends, that tie rods is being push way back. And gives that result.
Thinking best way to do it, is go ahead, snap it off, straighten it, the weld back on. Instead of trying to do in place. Or maybe just replace? Anyone know if there are new bulk head can buy for a 3206 yerfdog?
Anyway, the adventure continues
BTW. Was my friend, and his son. They came out without a scratch. The son thought it was cool, and asked dad if could do it again. Dad's reply was Hell No!
Dad felt terrible, and said he help any way he could. He's a good welder. Better then me, so will take him up on it.

[tkeagle]

Got to give credit where credit is due. Buggy Depot does a great job backing up thier products. Got the newest 2017 version of thier spindles. Stronger, break bracket, and holes for fender mount.
I must bring this up also. Some ppl, have had issues with them getting back to them. Or slow getting parts out. They are updating thier staff, and equipment to do more services in house, rather then shipping out to other locations.
Thanks for the great customer service!
That said. Got bulk head straighten. Steering box bracket welded. And put beads where there never was through out the bulk head. Got tab brackets almost made. Need to get longer bolts. Also, in back, the rear reverse bracket I made, welds broke finally. Back when first learned how to weld. Will look much cleaner now. Making all new bracket.
However, took entire front end off, don't recall how the steering box mounts. Looks like can be mount with the mounting bolts above the steering box. Or under. Which will make the steering set up higher or lower. Can find any pics of it. Can someone look, and tell me which way it should be mounted...
Thanks.

[GX150]

The tie rods should be parallel with the upper a-arms to prevent bump steer. I had to build an offset plate for the rack to get mine in the right place so the joints would not bind.

[ckau]

Steering box is mounted with the bolts under. Flipping the box to set the tie rods lower will result in opposite steering,... turn the steering wheel right= the wheels turn left. LOL! discover this little snafu while attempting to give the tie rods better alignment. ended up fabbing some stand- offs at the spindle end to raise the tie rods. this worked good!
While your messing with the steering box. Weld a bracket for the box to nest against. the constant push pull will loosen the two mounting bolts. the box will twist and shift at the mounting point causing misaligned steering

[tkeagle]

Thanks guys, that helps.

[tkeagle]

Guess time for update. Got everything back together few weeks ago. Sucker was running good. (Was) a key word. Drove it all weekend, and the last night did a major boo boo. About 10:00 that night, kids ran out of gas. It was very dark. Was about 1000 feet down road.
So had little gas left over in gas tank, so put in rest.
Thing would fire, start, but only stay running at full choke.
Could tell not running right. Able to keep it running at very low rpm. So slowly got it back, and shut it down for night. Thought maybe just hot. So shut it down for night.
Next morning, went back out, fired it up. Smoke like crazy. Smoking like crazy. Was like, crap. Now what? Look around engine, then noticed it. The fuel in the clear fuel filter, was red! For min. I had to wonder what the hell? Then it hit me. Yep,,,,,,, wrong gas!!!! Diesel!!!!!
Long story short, needed some diesel a few weeks ago, when buggy was down. Only gas tank had was the buggy gas tank. I remember telling myself, DON'T FORGET TO DUMP AND CLEAN THIS OUT RIGHT AWAY. Even told my wife, don't let me forget.

Well, we both forgot. I drained it all out. Took carb off, cleaned it all out. Dumped and cleaned both tanks.
So fired it back up.
It fired up pretty quick. Ran for about 5 mins. Thought cool we still good. Then looked at exhaust. Could see crazy heat fumes coming out of it. Even some smoke.
Like F÷$^#% %#=:*.... looked at temp on trail tech. Was over 400.
I really don't know if repairable. However, just so happened we getting some money from a previous year of taxes. Just enough to cover the price for new 175cc engine. And since was partly my wife fault, (at least what I told her.) got the ok to just replace entire thing. Could have saved alot of money, by taking one of my other engines, and rebuild it. But if was going to replace engine, I was going bigger. 175cc. I wanted to go stroker. But at this time, not an option.
Maybe this winter, I will make that happen. I've already got the crank for it. Just not for sure all ins and outs on it, to safely make that conversion. So might need help with that down the road.
So me and kids excited about the new engine. I think wife is to. She asked again yesterday, when it was coming in. Not sure yet. Just sent in list of upgraded parts I want to go with it. And need to send in my reverse shaft to them, so they can install it. I'm just so busy at work now. But Hoping to get it, in few weeks, if get shaft sent off in morning. Means I'll be pulling shaft out late tonight.
All that said.
What kind of difference can I see in the 175cc, compared to 150cc, but not stroked?
And a main question. Recommendation for break in???
I've read many different ways. But does sound like I will need to adjust values.
Seen, to break it in slowly.
And more then few spots, seen to drive it like you stole it.
Anyone first hand know how on this subject?

[SYCARMS]

Diesel fuel will not hurt the engine like gas will to a diesel engine. Spark does not ignite diesel very well, in fact I'm surprised it run at all. Since you had to run it with choke on and the spark did not ignight most of the fuel there are only 2 places the unburned fuel has to go out the exhaust into the muffler or into the crankcase. I'll bet if you pull the dip stick and smell the oil it smells like diesel. Drain the oil and refil with fresh oil. The oil will be thinned out from being diluted with diesel so the engine will run hot. Once running it will probably smoke until all the diesel is blown and burned out of the exhaust.

[tkeagle]

Hmm. Ok. Will do that. A extra engine is always nice.

[SYCARMS]

You have to be careful when buying an engine for these buggies. There is a 175cc engine but it won't fit your application without modification. If the engine is the same as your engine it will not be a 175cc without being stroked. You would be better off building your current engine if needed. If you want more power from the engine a big bore kit will not increase performance by itself, your power will be made in the head and camshaft. If I have confused you , you can give me a call @ 662-301-1563 and I can explain it all to you. There is a lot of deception when buying these parts.

[T@BD]

TK ordered his new engine from us. The 175 engine I offer is a 62mm bored GY6, 174.5cc actual displacement. It's a direct bolt-in fit for the Spiderbox, mounts exactly the same as the original with no modification.

Tom after re-reading your last post, I think you might have the fake "200cc" GY6 engines on your mind. The "200cc" GY6 engines floating around the net that are actually 170cc (61mm). They're lying, intentionally fudging the numbers to create confusion and scam up sales.

This all can be very confusing to the uninitiated that might be reading. I wrote a detailed "beginners" article years ago that will help clear all of this up. Explains the relationship between Bore, Stroke, and displacement CC. And has a calculator you can use to interactively see how changing the bore size OR the stroke length will affect overall engine size.

https://www.**********.com/tech-cent...er-calculator/

Hmm... replace the stars in my link with the BD name to access the article. Then plug in 62mm bore and 58.8mm stroke to calculate the exact CC size of our 175cc engine.

[jmansracerocket]

taida makes a nice case that comes with a oil cooler. Its a shortcase and is bored to a 61mm bore, which can be used with a stroker crank taida brand as well. Either way tk i wish you luck with the new engine.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by T@BD

TK ordered his new engine from us. The 175 engine I offer is a 62mm bored GY6, 174.5cc actual displacement. It's a direct bolt-in fit for the Spiderbox, mounts exactly the same as the original with no modification.

Tom after re-reading your last post, I think you might have the fake "200cc" GY6 engines on your mind. The "200cc" GY6 engines floating around the net that are actually 170cc (61mm). They're lying, intentionally fudging the numbers to create confusion and scam up sales.

This all can be very confusing to the uninitiated that might be reading. I wrote a detailed "beginners" article years ago that will help clear all of this up. Explains the relationship between Bore, Stroke, and displacement CC. And has a calculator you can use to interactively see how changing the bore size OR the stroke length will affect overall engine size.

https://www.**********.com/tech-cent...er-calculator/

Hmm... replace the stars in my link with the BD name to access the article. Then plug in 62mm bore and 58.8mm stroke to calculate the exact CC size of our 175cc engine.

Hey Travis long time no speak. What I was referring to is a customer had brought me his older HH with a new 175cc engine he bought off of e-bay but it was out of an ATV which had internal reverse so the sprockets did not line up and had a different rear mount set up. He was told it was a drop in motor.As far as a stroker crank they are tricky to do. The 2mm crank is not so bad but when you use the spacer it lifts the cylinder up which makes the piston skirt drop down in the cylinder. When the crank transitions from bottom of stroke the skirt puts a lot of pressure on the lower half of the sleeve. If the cylinder sleeve is made of cast it will crack in time, the steel sleeves were not a problem.When you get to the 3mm stroke a different piston is used to alleviate the added pressure to the lower half of the sleeve. Anything larger a taller jug is needed. This is what I was trying to convey to him. Had I known it was a BD engine I would not have questioned it for I know of your good reputation.

[tkeagle]

Yes. From BD. I wasn't going to spend that kind of money, with a shady company. Sure i could have spent less with some other places. However, for me, it was worth the extra $, with a company I have delt with for years.
Had a 2nd option to buy the bored out case kit from them, and build it myself. Yes, could have saved a chunk there. However, I would like to get buggy going this year. And knowing me, and how busy I've been at work, that might not happen. Plus, just piece of mind knowing it's done right.
So it's all good. Thanks.
Finally got bulk head reinforced. 1/4 inch stainless steel palates, front and back. Had my buddy do it. Im not that good, when comes to clean straight welds.
Thought be good time to add a tow loop. Now time to paint. Not sure what color, this round, or how going finish the front end. Will stick with same theme. Just slightly different this time I think.
Did get oil drained out of old engine. Might see how fires up, while waiting.

[tkeagle]

Guess decided to go with same color scheme.
Still figuring out what graphics going to place. Kind of like what had. But have done so much more mods on it, since used that layout, figure change it up a little.

[tkeagle]

Got the new 175cc in.
Son said it's so shiny. Well, not going to stay that way. But been trying. .

Put fluids in it, got it in buggy. Hooked up wires. Good think I've been working on wiring this last year. After only sitting without engine few weeks, got little confused on what went where. Good thing I used a paint pen and marked on connection, which one was its match.
Fired up on 2nd try!!!

At first was having issues wanting to run at lower rpm. Thought maybe need to re-jet.
But tried the simple things first. Took my good spark plug out of old one. And there was a night day difference. Purs like a kitten now. However got reverse issue, which I posted on another thread. But it's not engine issue.

Running good, and been running it over weekend. But not drivable yet. Up on jack stands, trying to get some break in time on it.

I must have a collapsed brake line. Every time, I mean every time, I run it a little bit on stands, and get it warmed up. Brakes are locked up. After it cools down, everytime, brakes are free. So guessing brake line?

So got some bugs to work out.
Thumbs up to buggy depot. Engine looks and runs great. And they through in some extra stuff, I planed on getting in few weeks. But they had me covered. Thx so much. Will give better review, when get it out on road. Maybe this weekend? I hope. But need the box, and brake issue taken care of.
Any thought on box, or brakes would be nice. Itching to get out on road.
Thx

[jmansracerocket]

No stroker ?

[SYCARMS]

I would check the brake rod adjustment first. There should be a bit of play in the pedal before rod contacts master cylinder piston.

[tkeagle]

I haven't checked that in while. So will do so. Going to get a new line anyway. Frustrating.
Nope, no stroker this round. Work has got me busy as hell. BD don't offer strokers at this time. Plus with the kids driving it all the time, not sure if they would do as I say, and keep it under a safe rpm range. This way, don't half to worry about it.
I've got the crank. Might make it a winter project this year.
Think got the reverse box figured out. The lock nut, is catching on the box itself. Just slightly to big. It's got a flared end, that goes up against the box. So will grind it down some, to give it some clearance.

Pretty much got it drivable. Every thing connect. wires and all. Sounds good on the stands. Many times more responsive then the other one. Think carb. fits the engine now.
Just need to fix the brake issue.

[jmansracerocket]

very odd travis at BD doesn't have stroker cranks anymore. TK looking at your pics more looks like the cvt cover is modded nicely with cooling vents? not sure cant tell. it does look good in black though.

[tkeagle]

Ya, CVT cover very nice. From what can tell, it's coated in black epoxy. I use the glossy epoxy for my black on the buggy, and was a few scratches on it. Covered it perfect. Cant tell was anything there.
However, no vents on it. Thou, wouldn't be hard to do, right in front of those lips. But think prefer for it to be more sealed. Where I ride, very dry, and a lot of dust, and dry grass. However, do plan on putting some pin stripe, or chrome strip on or around the lifted area's, to accent it. Since my exhaust is mounted on right side, cvt case, really shows it self off.
At this time, Travis not ready to offer that again. Maybe sometime in future. When they did offer it, ppl where putting to much rmp on the machines. And would want the warranty to cover the engine. So for right now, they not offering it.
At one time, they where looking into making their own CDI, which would limit the RPM. But not sure where they are on that right now.
This all to best of my knowalge. Maybe much more to it then that.

[x-bird]

is that brake reservoir line pinching shut? look like its got some "pull" on it in the picture.

[tkeagle]

Checked back tention on brake. Plenty of slack. Pretty much other then frame, everything has been replaced, or moded. Only thing stock is brake line and caliper. So guess will just do those two, while I'm at it.
However, found something with it. Took caliper off. And now there is clearly about 1inch slack in the axle. Slides left and right, in side the bearings. Is this normal?
Only thing keeping it place was the brakes against the disk. So could this be part of the issue? I replaced the axle last year. Replaced bearings about three years ago. Could bearings be out?
Just seems like it's a lot of movement. But don't recall when installed the new one.

[SYCARMS]

-This is most likely your brake problem. You should not have any side by side play. No clue as to why the play, you will have to closely inspect for the source of the play.

[x-bird]

that's definitely not good, Scrolled thru your pics ---- the YD guys here will have the answer to this question --- Should the bearing retainer shells be inside the bracket plates rather than outside them as I see in the one picture? 1/4-in.-ish plate x2 = 1/2 .....

I know when i was setting up the old sunl axle in my daughter's build where i had to add my own hangars to match it, it would sometimes not seat the bearings fully without an extra shove to get the seal lip over the bearing land. Messed up my measurements a couple times and left me with side to side play until i figured that little issue out. if you've got that movement, when the engine torque hits, it could be pulling the axle over and making the rotor shove against the calipers, effectively running with the brakes always on and overheating.

I'd drop the axle and see if you can't shove those shells inboard and remount them on the other side.

[tkeagle]

I do have the bearings on the outside. So they should be on the inside? I had same question when put new axle in. Where the bearings go? Inside or outside. ?
Got buggy still stands in back. Won't take much to drop axle, and check it out. Btw, I'd say there isn't 1inch of play. But it's there for sure. If both bearings need to go on inside, then yes, need to change that.
The tabs for the bearing axle, seems to be thin. Should I re-inforce them, while I'm there? Or can it be done? Clearance issues?

[x-bird]

did some digging and found a picture of a swingarm from bmi that was part of their inventory of recalled YD's, it had the witness marks from the bearings on the outside of the brackets. you may have bearings in it that are narrower than the originals or may have the bearing shells flipped possibly. The brake caliper mount posts dictate where your axle should sit in relation to the rotor, as does the engine sprocket mount. the bearings should be right up against the shoulders on the axle and limit the side to side thrust.

[tkeagle]

Took good look at it. Yes, there no way for bearings to be on inside. And would say only about 1/2 Play side to side. Took bearing shells apart. Cleaned them up. Packed some grease around them. Would say they looked in good shape. All seals still in good shape.
Seems still like more play then should be.
I put on a new brake line.
Had a caliper on a recalled box that bought years ago. Don't think ever used. Still had brake pads on it, looked never used. So put that caliper on it. It did have brake fluid in it, when took off. Guessing should work like new one? Anyway to clean it out? Anything I should do to it, since just been sitting for years? Or is it, i just get what I get out of it?
Buggy, already for the trails again. Been trying to get some break in time, on Jack stands, since haven't been able to take out yet. Trail tech, says I got about 5 miles on it. Got double that, just sitting at idle. Already changed oil in it once. After get a few more gals of gas through it, will change again.
From just what can tell, runs very solid. Hits the higher rpm range very quickly. Even thou on stands, can tell the difference from old engine.
With old engine, if ran it up high, then let off the gas, would get a small back fire.
Not with this one. Runs solid, up and down the ban.
Itching to get it out. Just need this brake issue fixed.

[tkeagle]

got it out. I cheated. still have no brakes. Flipped the master, drained refilled twice. Bleed brakes 4 times. NOW I cant get any brakes at all. UGGGGG. Said hell with it, took it out. Not like haven't done it before.
I've got some adjusting to do, for sure. It shoots right out of the gate. But after that, runs like something is holding it back. Almost runs like have much heavier rollers in it. I went from 10g's to 11g's sliders. Shouldn't be that much difference.
With me in it, takes forever to get up in the rpm range. Almost want to say, it's bogging out, like almost to much gas. But would think be just the reverse. Might need a different main jet. Might exsplain, why it runs good out of the gate, then just sluggish after that.
If get off decent from work today, will grab hand full of new spark plugs, and go run some spark plug test. Also will go through the fire, make sure it's getting all the fire it should be getting. Almost does run, like it's lacking on the fire side. Maybe some lose connections?
The valves was adjusted before it was sent to me. However, if these things don't fix it, then will double check the valve gap.

[x-bird]

a "quick" resolution for the axle play issue would be to find some thrust washers/shims to put on the axle next to the shoulders on either side until you get it down to a couple thou. put a bearing on it without the shells to see how much land surface you have to work with. you don't want the bearings hanging half off the land.

[SYCARMS]

Use an old already colored plug for your test, it will be so much easier to read. Make sure your test is at full throttle only for 900-1200 ft shutting down engine while throttle is wide open. Letting off the throttle for only a few seconds will ruin the test as the pilot jet will rich'n up the mixture and give you a false reading. So bring your plug wrench with you and remember that you will be pulling the plug on a hot engine so before you run the test make sure the plug is only slightly snug just enough that it does not leak.

[tkeagle]

will do. will take my gloves. it's a tight fit where plug is, the spider frame coming up, and beside it, and then got seat not far from it.
From what I've seen, a lot of ppl run around a #150 to #180 main jet. Carb came with a #190. vm-26 606
Larger the # the larger the jet right? More fuel into the chamber? Or is it reversed?
So just wondering, why the #190 was about right for the 155. don't see many jet sizes much over 200. Just don't make much since, so why asking if my thinking correct on this.
So many other ppl are running smaller jets.. But guess they don't all live in Kansas..

[SYCARMS]

The larger the # the larger the jet. My 150 has a 34mm Mikuni and I run the 190 jet in it but I have a 6mm stroke and 63mm bore with a custom made cam. I would say the 190 in yours is to big, may need the 150 main.You will know after your full throttle run. Just remember that you don't let up off the throttle until the engine dies.

[tkeagle]

Well.. Got a little run in. Was cut short, but did get a good run in. Didn't get pic on the full throttle plug. Was out on road, and forgot phone. But when pulled it, was white, almost pink, in some places.
So decided to go back slow to get a reading lower. Not sure did good job, keeping it low enough, but got pic on it. Looks still lean on that one. Got little brown, but still think to white.
Pretty sure need to up the jet. Cheap enough, so no big deal. The 190 worked perfect on the 155c. So guess makes since to up the jet.
Could be part of it, have such crapy gas, in little town, mid u.s.a.

[tkeagle]

I've truly never checked what's in the carb. hope it's smaller then what I read. I'm having problems finding jet sizes over 190. there plenty of room to up on the polite.

[SYCARMS]

Use an old plug , easier to read.

[tkeagle]

Did get jets in. Before taking out. See if could get idea on Jack stands. Put in 210. Was slightly better.
Jumped up to the largest, 240 see if I could get to much. Plug check showed still ok. But the max speed and rpm I got, went down. (This is still on Jack stands)
Put in 220, and was best results, as far as top speed and rpm.
Took it out with the 220.
Big improvement.
However,,,, it run strange. It would either jump up, or go down in power as getting up speed. Think felt like it was jarring forward.
Could that be filter? It's new since this year. But guess that could be void. Its a larger filter also.
Only thing I can think of. Or got a air leak somewhere? But just going through it, can't think where it would be.

Changed fuel filter. Thought that would fix it. But didn't. However, more I drove it, the Jarring feels like more in CVT or rear end somewhere. Just felt to abrupt to be a power loss or gain. But might be wrong on that. So will open up case and see if something can be seen.

Another thought. The rubber piece between the carb and intake, is to large, they sent me wrong size, but if tighten down, (think) it's sealed off. But does make a bulge between the 2. Wondering if that could be messing with the mixture.
Going to change it, to a matching set intake and rubber spacer, the correct size, see if that corrects something. Just everything seen, I shouldn't need that large of jets.

Live in central KS, and think elevation is around 1150

[OLDKID]

I don't think your going to accomplish any kind of real tuning results on jackstands ! It needs to be tuned under normal load . Tuned to real operating conditions .

[SYCARMS]

Correct, tuning an engine with no load would be like getting a stress test while walking on a flat surface. Tuning under normal load is like a stress test on a treadmill running wide open. One gives you feel good results until actually driving the later gives you accurate results. Another thing is I hope you don't have one of those no rev limit cdi's installed while doing your test. You would definitely be over revving the engine causing some sort of premature wear and even damage. Be careful, the correct way for you to test I explained in an earlier post unless you have access to a dyno which I would suspect that to cost between $200-$400 dollars for a few tuning runs.

[SYCARMS]

Get some carb cleaner and spray the intake around the rubber boot between carb and intake as well as the base of intake where it meets the head. I'll bet you have a vacuum leak.Your jarring feeling could be your tune up. Post a picture of the carb setup on engine.

[tkeagle]

Yes, I know on jack stands is not best way to go. And I watch the rpms when it's on them. It's a lot of work to get it outside of town, to make some runs with it. Stands are just to give me an idea, so I'm not spending hrs trying to find a starting point. 9 miles don't sound that far out of town. But there would be hell to pay, if I let the kids at home. .
Town laws says I cant even drive the buggy in my own yard, since I live in town. Got my butt jumped already a few times, and was given my last warning. So yes, it's a freaking pain for sure. If I wait until the weekends to do anything, I'd still be putting the engine on the frame. Wife has me doing husband things, on many of the weekends now. PAIN!!!
That said, If don't half to go out of town, might have a good weekend to myself, so can get this narrowed down. Load up all tools, head out to our place, and spend at least a full day down out there.

I got new intake, and rubber spacer. put on yesterday afternoon. After put it on, it hit me like you suggested. Took some carb. cleaner, and sprayed around the back side of carb. around the intake. Engine didn't sputter or rev up. On the old intake the o ring was trashed. Never did the carb. cleaner thing, on old one. So maybe this will get me to where I should be.
And if get off work decent today, will take the time to take it out, and give it a true run.
Pics are of old setup. The blue spacer was actually a 31mm I think. Can see the bulge pretty good in that one pic. And after comparing the old one. To red, the new one, pretty good difference, even in length. Blue was half inch or more longer. So we will see.

[x-bird]

might also want to take a peek at your clutch and variator while your at it unless you've been into those recently

[tkeagle]

Got it out yesterday. Still doing it. And sprayed carb. cleaner around those area's again when got back to double check. Don't seem to be any leaks. So know I'm almost at a lose. only other thing I can think of is if my gas tank doesn't have enough height for the vertical fall into the carb. Wasn't an issue before, but maybe because bigger engine, just not getting enough, fast enough? I did do somewhat a spark plug check. It did look much better. much more darker brown around the plug, still light brown on tip of diode.
still got the 220 in it. Might put the 190 back in it, and see if improves. After that not sure what else to do.
Air filter pretty dirty. ordered new one, but must have measured wrong, to big, need to order smaller one.
Could be CDI, or Coil? they both brand new, but they can be default out of the box. Have new spares of both, or could put on the old ones, they both was working when took them off. Can even check plug. have plenty extra's of those.
I know, when checking all of these, do one thing at a time.

[SYCARMS]

There are 3 things needed for your engine to run. Air/fuel& spark. With spark it should be blue in color, yellow to orange it is a weak spark. Check the color of your spark, make sure it is a blue color. If so than coil is good. The CDI only tells the coil when to spark so if you have any spark the CDI is good. Assuming the cam is properly timed and valves properly adjusted this leaves the fuel delivery. I would not expect the tank since your problem is not running out of fuel in the carb by what you describe. Reading the plug should be done using an old colored plug. A new plug will take many runs to properly read. Since an old plug is already colored a single run will show change to color immediately and be easier to read. The 2 areas to look at is the base of the threads and insulator. And as stated before there are only 2 tests for checking the plug. Now for your carb, is it a genuine Mikuni? I believe you said it was a VM-26. What series is it 606? Was the carb purchased new or used? If used what was it used on? Unlike a CV carb to where tuning is basically done by changing the main and pilot jets the slide carb is much more tunable. With the slide carb besides the jets you will also consider the slide, metering rod, fuel needle and fuel seat to properly tune the carb. Was this carb used on the old engine and if so how did it run? I know you are frustrated with limited time to work on it but you have to be patient. It's a learning curve.

[tkeagle]

Yep I know. Just not expected issues since pretty much same engine. It's a vm26-606. And yes worked perfect on the old engine, so why these issues, very confusing to me.
Bought it new 5 years ago. Or so. And it's a true m26.
It always gets a cleaning in the spring. But never change or replaced any seals or anything. No rebuild kit. Just gets a good cleaning at least once a year. Sometimes more.
There is a noticable increase in power from take off. Then shortly after that, starts the jarring. Tried to narrow it down on last run. Starts somewhere around 5k rpm.
If stay lower then that, don't feel it. However, not saying it's not doing it. Just might not be feeling it , in the lower speed.

This what been changed over old engine. New cdi, coil, plug. Of course going from 155 to 175cc
The head design is little different, from stock.
And upgraded variator 115mm and upgraded clutch.

I guess one other thing. Made a little bigger electric box in back that holds the main wire harness. Holds the cdi and solenoid. It's a metal box, instead of plastic. I sprayed the inside, top and bottom with rubber coating.
There is much more room in it. The other one was so tight, nothing could move inside of it. With this one, not the case. By chance, could this play a factor? Nothing is really tied down. Cdi or solenoid. I've got all connection covered in tape. But that enough?
Just thought about it, since trying to recall what actually changed between the 2 engines.
Oh ya, upgraded the rear engine mount. Or chain tighten.

[OLDKID]

Which came first ? The chicken or the egg ?
I'd try running it on stands CVT cover off , RIDING THE BRAKE ! and put it thru it's RPM cycle . Watching for any abruptness in driver , belt , and driven . Should be super smooth and uniform in transition of small to big , big to small .
If not ? Than the Big Question .... Is it because erratic engine RPM ??? OR is CVT not engaging / disengaging properly --- Causing erratic engine RPM ???? Picture driving a standard transmission vehicle in the wrong gear .....

[tkeagle]

If brakes worked.
Which been working on also. And found the bottom seal of piston is pretty tore up on 2 different sides. Could this be my issue?

[SYCARMS]

That is the reason for no brakes.

[tkeagle]

Might have figured it out. Can't believe didn't notice until now. The nut that locks on the reverse box is gone. Spun off again. Not sure how long it's been. But been a little bit, by looking at bolt. Maybe long as been having issue? Could be.
Only thing keeping it on was the holding bracket. Had lock nut on it. Not sure why 2nd time this happened. So guess need to put lock tight on it?
At least guessing this my issue with the jarring.

[SYCARMS]

That would definitely cause a jarring. My reverse boxes on both my 150 and 250 use castle nuts secured with cotter pins.

[tkeagle]

Ya hoo. No more jarring. So now need to work on the jetting.
I cheated and just took it down the block in town. So just got a quick run to see if it was fixed.
Just ordered a cheap master cylinder, hopefully have it by Friday and then have some brakes again.

I'll order a 170 and 180 jet Friday.
I'll play with the jets I've got and see what it does. find some sort of test strip, and take runs on it.
One thing I have noticed. Even with the old engine. I just cant step on gas and go. If do, just dies.
Half to easy into it, at first. is this a sign of anything?

[SYCARMS]

Glad to hear you solved that problem.

[Big Rich]

Tk, in my experience with motorcycle carbs (a pair of VM34's on a 650 twin most recently): hesitation off idle when stomping the gas is an indication of high fuel levels in the bowl. Now, that's not to say your floats are too high - my VM34's do the same thing and I've spent hours upon hours messing with them. But try adjusting the float height a LITTLE and see if there's any change.

If you think about the differences between CV and VM carbs it makes more sense. On a CV carb you pull the throttle cable, the butterfly valve opens at the same rate, but the slide moves up according to the vacuum created by the motor (which at idle, there isn't near as much vacuum as WOT). So the throttle response seems much more linear with the throttle pull. With VM carbs, you stomp the gas pedal and the slide hits the top RIGHT NOW. Problem is, the lower rpms of the motor don't quite have enough vacuum to suck in that much air / fuel right away, so it needs to build up a little (and hesitate the throttle response).

That's breaking it down to simple terms......and carbs are definitely not simple items. Hope that helps a little though!

[tkeagle]

Yes. That helps. I've always thought it felt like it was drowning it self out. Honestly, not real big deal. I'll see what happens if I lower the polite jet. But right now looking to get the jets good on the upper side.

[SYCARMS]

I had a customers Polaris 250 which needed a new carb. The Polaris Mikuni replacement was over 300.00 so I ordered the universal vm carb for a fraction of the cost. I played with this carb for days to figure out why it idled perfectly and topped out perfectly, that is once you got through the flat spot which would kill the engine. You didn't have to jump on it either, just a normal acceleration. I checked the float level 20 times or more, ordered numerous main jets to try but it still reacted the same when you accelerated.After several days of scratching my head I noticed a bald spot making me realize I had to call someone to figure this out. I called and talked to a gentleman at Carb Parts Warehouse. They are the US distributor for Mikuni. He asked me for some info such as the vehicle, engine displacement and model of carb which I believe was a VM-26 as well as a description of my problem. His answer was I needed a smaller fuel seat. I replied that it was not flooding out, idle is perfect and wide open throttle run resulted in a perfect plug color. I could not see wasting more money on a seat I knew would not solve the problem and told him so since fuel flows through seat filling fuel bowl until float rises and needle cuts off the flow. He disagreed and told me to replace the seat with a smaller one and guaranteed me it would fix my problem or he would refund me for the part and shipping and I would keep the smaller seat. He was absolutely correct but still I could not comprehend how the seat made a difference. When I put the VM34 on my 150cc I had called him to see if it would even work on my engine. I give him all the specs on my engine cam and head as well as numbers off every internal part in carb. After spending 40.00 on parts the carb I thought would not work performs perfectly. These people know slide carbs, very knowledgeable. So if you cannot get it right than google carb parts warehouse to get their phone number and give them a call. However have all your info ready to give him like engine displacement, mild performance cam, current jet sizes, slide, and needle numbers and a detailed description of the problem as to when it occurs, rpm's if possible.

[tkeagle]

Ok, thanks. last few days, been working on the brakes. OMG!!!! I'm about to shot myself. I've done everything. I do have very little brake. But just cant seem to get it bleed, or something. even took off the entire system. And bench bleed it. NOTHING!!
I got a new master. Could tell was made cheaper. I tried to just take piston out, and put in mine. NOTHING.. So put it all back together. I've got a hint of brakes at best.
Really need to get brakes going, so can do some carb runs. See where I'm at.
I did let my son have a go at it yesterday. He agrees, the engine is a monster coming out of the gate. But takes forever to get up to speed, and top speed is lacking. I'll get it figured out. But this brake issue is going to be the death of me. I've got a brake bleeder pump. Still cant seem to get it going. only thing not new on it, is caliper. so dont know. will have a few day today. So see what I can do.

[SYCARMS]

OK try this, remove the master with reservoir remove the brake line making sure it remains in the upright position so as not to loose your brake fluid in line. While holding master upright fill the master outlet with fluid then carefully while holding upright install the brake line and snug banjo bolt. Install the master to its mount than when secure complete tightening the banjo bolt. Now try to bleed. I have just had a Kazuma that give me problems. I tried 3 new masters and even tried to back bleed the system with no luck. The procedure as explained worked and I have good brakes.

[x-bird]

if you haven't yet, blow the brake lines out with compressed air. you may have some bits of rubber from the banjo washers floating in there plugging up the master 's little port. been through that hell already, over and over nothing working, flushing and blow the lines clean and sure enough more little bits o rubber. get copper washers if you haven't don't use those with the rubber seals even if they're new.

[tkeagle]

Thx guys. Will give it a shot.

Got a few runs in over weekend.
Test strip was 338 feet. Was just how it came out to be. (With no brakes.) This length almost got me to top speed. Think top is around 32mph. What seen so far.
Pic is plug of the #190 main jet.
Still little hard to see. But could tell running lean. Test run shows same thing. Forgot to plug test, on the others.

#190
12.75 secs @ 25.7mph
12.68 secs @ 25.7mph.
That might be top speed for that jet. Didn't think to record rpm, until next test.

#220
11.97 secs @ 27.9mph 7790 rpm
11.98 secs @ 27.8mph 7780 rpm
Could feel the difference.

#230
12.24 secs @ 27.4mph 7600 rpm
12.22 secs @ 27.6mph 7609 rpm
Couldn't tell any dramatic difference. But a slight one.

All time had for. I have #200 and #210. Will half to see what I get with them. So far looks like 220 is best. Can clearly see a decline once hitting #230.
Looked at tuning carb. Forgot you can adjust the needle, for more or less the fuel for the main jet.
As suggested I should be running around #170. And I'm pretty sure I moved the needle down, on old engine, to lower the fuel.
Is it possible that need to move needle up, to get me around #170 range? Could moving the needle change the correct jet that much?
But haven't test run the 200 or 210. So maybe not that much of a change?????
And say this is true. Does it matter which way you go, to get the needed fuel intake?
Say #210 jet with needle lowered down, or #170 jet with the needle sitting on top adjustment?
Is there a difference??

[SYCARMS]

What ever jetting you have on the first plug pic with blue in it is a perfect read. The second seems a bit more rich. The first pic your ground strap and porcelain is a nice brown color. Start with the needle set on center then get the jetting right. Than you can fine toon the needle if needed.