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#201
12-13-2011, 12:49 PM
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GX, i still wear vans around the house - blk & white checkers, like Spicoli.
jim, was gonna suggest an old u-joint from a socket set but thought it too obvious... |
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#204
12-13-2011, 06:31 PM
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are we long-lost, obsessive, poncho-lovin' bruddas from anudda mudda?
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#205
12-14-2011, 03:18 PM
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aren't all children of the 70s/80s? LOL
Now, off the dang bikes and Vans and back to the important stuff ... Finished up the steering/uni-joint mess and adjustable shock mounts. Did some test driving today and promptly split one of the steering rod ends open. Just so happens i grabbed the old Scag clutch kickback rod and rod end off the workbench (from up at work) today and it was an exact replacement in terms of rod size and thread direction. It's also way stronger. So a nice 2 minute fix. Pulled it out again and promptly snapped one of the new rod end mounts off the steering arm (it was only tack welded) Pulled it back into the garage and moved the rod to my original location, adjusted it and pulled back out again. Steering got "unusual" and straight-lined me into a tree ... the steering column hangar (an old yerf spindle) just basically twisted right over. Pulled back into the garage and welded some support plates to it and the upper tube. Pulled it back out again ... Beat the living daylights out of it and i'm pretty pleased with it. The universal joint has too much slop in it, i have a plan or two to fix that. I changed the air intake, cut off the elbow, it runs better, but still sputters out quite often and is carbon sooty again. I have an idea for a final attempt. It's like this carb wants nothing attached to it. I think the intake pipe feeding it is causing some type of turbulence that's killing the venturi effect of the carb body. Pic and video (shot some static and a quick walk of the woods) by later tonight (takes forever to load, edit and upload to the u-tube. Last edited by x-bird; 12-14-2011 at 05:03 PM. |
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#206
12-14-2011, 08:02 PM
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so ...2 hours and the video is not even 1/2 uploaded! So some pics instead for now ....
Really getting close to calling her done .... Or is that just wishful thinking?  Aside from the sloppy u-joint, (i've got about 3 inches of steering wheel freeplay--blech,) the steering needs a support just ahead of the joint, seems to flex a lot there. I'm thinking of hanging a tube with a pair of 5/8-id wheel bearings for it and also tacking a bearing where the steering shaft passes through the support plate by the steering wheel. (tricky i know, i may pull both seals prior to the weld and use rtv to seal it on the plate side and repack it and put the original seal on the backside.) First test of the setup the other day bent the shock mounting plate down into the arms. I'd intended to put a brace under it between the arms and forgot about it. So last night was mostly about doing that (1-inch thin wall box tubing) and finding a way to support the other end of it. It doesn't look like much support, but that little extension held up to some pretty brutal treatment today. the gussets for the end of the shaft i pretty much just slapped in there and had at it with the mig really quickly. I moved it all forward another 2 inches or so because the gas pedal got trapped under the steering rod a couple times in hard turns --- WHEE!!!!! omg, you got scag orange in my yerf! I'm also back to using the original steering shaft mounting hole on the pitman, cut off my extension--yay it shed a quarter pound! steering effort is pretty easy now and the ackerman is at an acceptable level. Last edited by x-bird; 12-14-2011 at 08:13 PM. |
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#207
12-14-2011, 08:28 PM
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 57% ......Latest air filter setup ...still no good, better but no good. no more trapped pedal ...dang thing nearly got my toes when it happened, actually pretty scary. hey, my new fenders work ....  snapped the lower tube off this one--yes, i already clipped a tree. but that's what i want them to do, thin wall tubing with a tack weld. i'll just wipe the mud off and tack it again. better than making it real sturdy and bending the frame.
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#208
12-17-2011, 11:15 AM
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Bit the bullet today and dropped my dime on a rack. managed to get a new unused one on e-bay for right around $65 shipped. the single arms and stock steering, no matter what i do with it, are going to give me issues, the amount of toe-in under compression is too much and is putting a heavy strain on the upper tubes. i'm afraid of that in combination with the steering being mounted up there is going to result in an epic failure. I'm going to attempt a helmet cam vid today to show just how bad it is. Steering rack isn't going to go in until i get the upper arms done.
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#209
12-17-2011, 02:59 PM
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Let the little one have her first taste of yerf-doggy! Scary chit!!!!
 She's an all or nothing speed freak just like her old man. Steering is still too strong for her though, i had to keep a hand on the bottom of the wheel to keep us out of trouble. Pedal rig worked well, i need another limiter bolt, the one i put in it is too short and she had full throttle. I'm still trying to get a decent video, here's a link to today's helmet cam run. the cam is low quality, framerate is too low and the sound is out of sync. It only holds about 3 minutes of video and i still haven't found a good angle to mount it on. I did a slow "lap" and then a faster one. There's another static video i shot the other day with my JVC, about 9 minutes long first 2 minutes is worthless, then it's a bunch of clipped shots of me riding through the woods. BTW, if you watch the vid in the link, the end was hard enough to flip the kill switch into the off position but did no damage at all to it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ipTh...ature=youtu.be Last edited by x-bird; 12-17-2011 at 03:34 PM. |
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#210
12-17-2011, 09:31 PM
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if you're gonna have an epic failure make sure to get it on tape!!
what rack did you get? |
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#211
12-17-2011, 09:50 PM
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It's a stock yerf rack that someone bought but didn't use. I'll mod it for more turning radius. It's not going in until i get everything together to do the duals. The distance i have between the steering arms most likely means that i'm going to have create new rods for the rack. I can cut the width easily when i remove and turn the spindle mounts into spindles (rotate them 180, weld the axle through the center of the upright and trim the extensions to whatever i want), but i'm really liking the 53-in. width up front.
The vids i get are pretty horrible, i may take my JVC out with my HD extension cords tomorrow and set it up close at different locations and patch together a video that shows all the corners etc. it's a pretty cool 1/3 or so of an acre, but you really can't see how extreme most of it is. Or was-- I'm chewing a lot of rock out of the trail (chunks the size of bowling balls) and its smoothing out by just riding it. In the 9 min. video around the 7 min. mark i drive up and over a downed tree (about a 28-32 in. diameter trunk) that's built up with dirt on the top side and has nothing but a 2 to 3 foot drop and the hill falling away on the other. It's another of my old mountain bike jumps. I almost went over it by accident one day and said to heck with it and just hit the gas and was more than a little surprised that it drove over it. In the vid it looks like nothing. Last edited by x-bird; 12-17-2011 at 09:54 PM. |
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#212
12-17-2011, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
 .but nice soil samples though !
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#215
12-17-2011, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Last edited by rich1; 12-17-2011 at 10:30 PM. |
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#216
12-18-2011, 01:23 PM
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decided to pay a little attention to the back end this morning. reset the valve lash, it was at .010 spec is .004 so tightened them up to that. had it up on stands and noticed the belt getting too hot. convertor alignment was off, so i started in on that and found i can't get them aligned (using a straight edge from my machinists square). Belt is chunking so i'll be down for a couple days til the replacement arrives. Looks like i'll be pulling the engine and mounting plate to grind in some more adjustment range. Is this common?
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#217
12-18-2011, 08:51 PM
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give him a break; he's a writer, not a photographer, damn it (jim)!
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#218
12-18-2011, 08:54 PM
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mine wasnt perfect when i got it; still isn't but it's reasonably close and runs acceptably cool.
with the build tolerances these seem to have i'd bet it's pretty par. check carefully for swingarm plate warp. mine is out a couple/few degrees or so longitudinally. i only noticed it after a fella on diy mentioned they're prone to doing the twist so i looked closely and sho' nuff. |
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#219
12-18-2011, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
 i just know i'm shooting with junk for vid  this last one may look familiar to you mike ... 3 am, texas sonic, burned this exposure for 3-4 minutes with a 300 fixed. Last edited by x-bird; 12-18-2011 at 09:45 PM. |
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#220
12-18-2011, 09:14 PM
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i might've twisted it doin the log drop a few times. I was able to get them aligned before. Overheating on the outer side of the driven. threads started peeling out from under the top layer of the belt while running it on the stands.
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#221
12-18-2011, 09:25 PM
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that 3rd pic looks like a pikes peak ride.
i just read they paved all the way to the top; wtf??? |
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#222
12-18-2011, 09:35 PM
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That's the "winged wonder" turbo'd mazda power. Duryea hillclimb, reading pa around '98 or 99. hill record holder at the time. Its air path knocks dead limbs off the trees above on its way through. original test track of the duryea brothers, historically protected old rotten wood and 2 cable guard along offside course.
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#223
12-18-2011, 09:50 PM
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if i eat enough chili my air path blows (ok, ass-phyxiates) squirrels right outta trees.
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#224
12-18-2011, 09:52 PM
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wow, are those Champ 500's on that goat?
i havent seen a set in forever |
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#225
12-19-2011, 04:34 PM
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i'd have to dig in the slides to find out, vette suspension, 700 hp with NOS, was competitive in solo cone racing, tires were street/ performance handling.
Anywho, time to steer the choo choo back on to the rails. What do you think of these? There are some cheap spring/oil ones used out there, but i'm a bit leery of buying used shocks. http://www.ebay.com/itm/260887127437...84.m1423.l2649 |
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#226
12-19-2011, 04:46 PM
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was just idle curiosity, dont go to any trouble.
slides.....heehee, kodachrome. we're old. shockwise, it'd be really good to know the spring rate on those before spending dinero..i'd suspect they're stiffer than the SC's claimed 110 lb springs, which might serve you well given the leverage your setup's got....and you can add air to crank 'em up more if needed...until you blow the seals out, anyway. otoh, the sc's are a bit too stiff for mine, so might be bueno for you... last, why not go longer? size does matter. nyuk nyuk |
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#227
12-19-2011, 07:29 PM
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i did a couple hour run through e-bay and CL checking out what's available. measured it out and found that i don't want to go beyond 13 inch. ey to eye. the spring rate doesn't worry me much for the reasons you mentioned. If i could find a pair of double adjustable Risse racing air/oil shocks like i have on my DH rig, i'd drop the dime on them in a heartbeat ...actually, it'd be a massive pile of dimes for those puppies. ... oooh ..that would be one of these, the other is on my bike. http://risseracing.com/store/product...16924ab39429b3
Last edited by x-bird; 12-19-2011 at 08:11 PM. |
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#228
12-19-2011, 07:33 PM
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being too stiff was my concern; atv's carry most of their weight up front; our junk's the opposite...
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#230
12-19-2011, 08:30 PM
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roger that, but most of it's unsprung
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#231
12-22-2011, 06:41 AM
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If anyone is looking for a good source for hardware I found this place, http://www.boltdepot.com.
I ordered some stuff on Monday and got it last night. Each item was packaged in a ziploc bag with a label of its contents.
__________________
If the only tool you have is a hammer, Then all your problems look like nails. |
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#232
12-22-2011, 09:14 AM
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Thanks for the info. Another source is Fastenal which I believe is a bit cheaper especially if you have an account with them. I am constantly purchasing bolts to replace the cheap Chinese bolts. I always thought the markings indicated grade 5, but they do not equal our grade 3 bolts. When I need a bolt I purchase by the box which is cheaper then individually. So now I am getting somewhat of a collection. Plus I have a Fastnal store not far from me so there is no waiting for delivery. Some times they do not have a particular size available. Now I have a backup source.
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#233
12-22-2011, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
I need to start a new bolt cabinet/rack to organize all this stuff. My old one I outgrew years ago. |
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#234
12-22-2011, 10:01 AM
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I was a sales rep for a hardware company named Wurth USA. I can tell you that very few nuts and bolts are made here in the US. Most are made in taiwan,india and china.
The grade markings for grade 5 are three slashes, grade 8 has 5 slashes. Most of the Home Depot and lowes hardware is less than grade2! I always make sure that they are ansi rated.
__________________
If the only tool you have is a hammer, Then all your problems look like nails. |
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#235
12-22-2011, 10:46 AM
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Lyonsperf you are correct. The chinese bolts marked with 5 slashes are not even a grade 3. Im talking about the bolts which are used on the chinese vehicles or purchased from places like Lowes. Many of the suply houses such as fastnal, bowman use the ansi rating. I always tell my customers that you get what you pay for and just because they look the same doesn't mean they are the same. Much of the cheap chinese metal products come from recycled metal which is not the same as virgin metal. Does not matter which metal, everytime it is heated the molecular structure changes which causes the metal to react in a different way. I have a friend who owns a tool and dye company and he has often told me that the recycled metal they use for making dies lasts much less then if made with virgin materials His problem is he cannor get the same quality tool steel as in the past.
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#236
12-22-2011, 01:02 PM
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yep, hardware is a real crapshoot these days. I inherited a big upright steel cabinet with 100 drawers in it from my father-in-law. about half the drawers were filled with various automotive clips, screws, nuts and bolts. the boxes don't have a manufacturer's label, just a number and a picture of the fastener. Its from a friend of his who owned an auto parts store that shut down in the late 80s and the stuff likely dates to the mid 70s to then. Between that and my own bins from working on cars for the last 30 years, i rarely have to buy. if i can dig it up in the garage, i know it's quality.
BTW --- my steering rack arrived ....temptation! But it's not going on or getting modded until everything is ready for it.
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#237
12-22-2011, 10:45 PM
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old stuff > new stuff.
merry holidays and i hope santa brings you something besides Clean Coal. |
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#238
12-24-2011, 09:54 AM
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Quote:
Anyway, success this morning. I "made" an adjustable main jet, works well. I'll post a little how-to thread for any tec owners that want to do it, nice, cheap easy mod. Got the new belt and dismantled, cleaned & lubed the driver & driven. may put up a how-to thread on that in regards to taking apart older units that don't want to come apart easily. Got an issue with the driven, both plates are cracked around the rivets.  Gave it a quick test drive and it's definitely running soooo much better. Gotta build the lil shark then it's time to finish the arms and steering on this one. Happy horrordays all!
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#239
12-31-2011, 11:33 AM
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Poor old Yerfie has been "stalled" for awhile. The 5 minute run with the new belt already started fraying and glazing it a bit, so no playing outside until i get another driven ...dang Mike, do i have to wait until next year???
Been nice out and I'm jonesing! I want to get some time in on it before i rip it all apart again. I did decide to go with "upper end" shocks front and rear, i have a set of rebuilt Fox spring/oil shocks from a snowmobile coming. 13 1/2 eye to eye, adjustable spring. Spring coil looks pretty soft (wide spacing between the coils, non-progressive, I think they're Polaris front ski shocks. The other set is off a 91 Arctic Cat 550 Ext, Fox front air/coil with adjustment on both, remote air reservoir and 14 1/4 eye-to-eye. avg cost shipped works out to about $38 ea. Given that they're rebuildable, I think it was the better way to go. |
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#240
01-01-2012, 09:47 PM
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damn the budget, full shock ahead!
sounds good; assume the longer ones are for the back? i'll do my besty to get the driven on the road tomorrow for ya |
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#242
01-05-2012, 12:37 PM
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Man do i ever wish i had a parts washer! Got both engines cleaned externally and inside the transmission/drive pulleys. Also cleaned the Sunls reverse assy, the grease was really thin. The carter's is still pretty decent. I stink!!!! Both have broken variator fans. I'm going to start with the Carter engine on it given that it needs the least amount of parts to work and engine-wise is running. I'm going to put the reverse assembly from the Sunl on it along with the clutch, variator and belt. They all look to be in better shape. Got most of the parts mounted in the frame for mock-up. I need to offset the drive sprocket on the axle to the left about 1/2 in. or so. I put a pic below, I was given an injection carb with the Sunl. the trans cover is dated 2000 on it, was an injected engine stock or is this something aftermarket?? I take it the injection goes into the covered hole on the head. The sunl is going to be my hot rod project and the carter the runner. Got my shocks, going to have oil/spring up front (polaris) and Air/spring with reservoirs at the rear (Arctic cat EXT 550) PS-- Mike--driven arrived today, gonna hit PP now and get you taken care of ... Now I realize I likely have to do some modding to the mounting plate for the 6 inch so the belt fits  I just want to bolt it on and do some riding with my insanely sloppy and ill geometried steering system
Last edited by x-bird; 01-05-2012 at 12:40 PM. |
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#243
01-05-2012, 02:39 PM
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dont forget the sprocket's in there too.
verily, you will indeed be slotting your mounting plate; you gotta reduce C2C distance 3/4". i went over this in my thread. ooooo, you have reverse; nice! |
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#244
01-05-2012, 04:17 PM
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Yeah, checked around to see if there was another shorter belt--no such luck. Forgot about the sprocket .... looked down on the floor a couple hours alter and found the box ... "hmm what's this ...ohh duh!"
I think i'm going to use the yerf's subframe, cut the axle mounts off, weld the mini atv swingarm axle mount & axle under the yerf's frame and see if i can't cobble the big sprocket onto it somehow. Between the 6 inch driven and shorter atv tires, i think she'll be ok speedwise without having to limit it. Don't think i'm going to get a ride in on the yerf before i cut it up back there. Tonights mission, get the belt fitted .... |
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#245
01-06-2012, 09:38 AM
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The last ride of project 3203-X (I just like that letter--goes back to my old NJ BMX number 32X--and it's the VIN code for an SD) has taken place and ended in one broken old Yerf being dragged back to the garage!
 Snapped a steering rod end. No biggie as she's going under the knife today and won't come out of surgery until both ends are finished. Also having some tubing bent for a new primary hoop that i'll weld in with as close to proper triangulation as i can get --no more bolted cage.Mike---holy &^#@$!!!! Did you run the 6-inch with the 11 tooth sprocket??? Flippin drag race gearing!! Scary quick acceleration, and with the Tec properly jetted still ran as fast on the top end as the 7-inch did running too rich. I took the roll cage off last night and had no helmet or belts, scared myself more than once in the woods and i was taking it easy. The ground is frosted here and I was getting big spinning powerslides, donuts that after coming around had the tires spinning forwards while still sliding backwards (what's with the word "drift" anyway, that's what old people do while driving--- dang newbies to the scene!)
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#246
01-06-2012, 06:42 PM
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mine came w/ a 9 tooth, i'm at 8 now.
the smaller driven made your gearing taller, of course; shoulda hurt acceleration. therefore, i think you're experiencing the same happy thing i did when i put on the 6. i won't say what as you'll figure it out pronto if you try spreading the sheaves of the old driven by hand then try the new one. nothing i've ever been in "drifted" better than my first '73 TA; it loved being sideways |
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#247
01-06-2012, 09:15 PM
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the old sheaves sound like a tambourine when you shake the whole piece. I'd say that driven got used way beyond it's expected life cycle. Pulled the subframe, chopped my mounts out and cut the rear rack down. Also eliminated most of the bottom rail the shock mounts to and angled it up to meet the rack then welded it all up. Swept up a lot of Yerf dust off the floor today. If I had kept it all, i'd have about 2-4 gallons of it by now. Mounted the crusty new rear shocks and used them to figure out where i want the GX rear to sit. looks like i'm adding about 4 inches to the wheelbase.
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#248
01-06-2012, 10:25 PM
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the spring was utterly spent in my old one; i figured yours probably was too.
the stiffness of the fresh driven spring really surprised me and explained how my cart got quicker despite less gear. have any pics of the new shocks and your work so far yet? |
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#249
01-07-2012, 07:47 AM
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Been shooting a little video and some pics ... going to do a decently produced 5-10 minute video. No pics of the front shocks allowed for now ;~) Camera fell off the Mig yesterday and broke both mounting tabs on my 18-55 zoom lens, which is my tech article workhorse :~( . The wife smacked my 100-300 zoom getting out of the car a couple months ago (my feature article workhorse) so i'm down to my 35-135, which is my oldest piece--has Por-15, gear oil, spray paint etc on it or my 24 mm fixed lens, which gets really bad vignetting with the digital body. Gotta get the glass to Nikon for repairs.
Anyway ...here's the clearance work on the rack area. I'm going to have to move the shock mounts inboard and add some gusseting for them. Still working out how to build a nice beefy mounting point for the rear swing arm. I have some 2.5 x 2.5 angle iron. I might use that from corner to corner across the lower rails and tied into teh old frame stubs then add a piece of box tubing behind it. It'll put the rear about 2 inches further back and the GX rear also sets the axle back 2 inches more than the 3203. The rear shocks need rebuilt and a longer line for the reservoir. Without a cage, this thing looks like a T-bucket ran into Speed Buggy.
Last edited by x-bird; 01-07-2012 at 08:58 AM. |
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#250
01-07-2012, 12:32 PM
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it DOES look like a t-bucket!
i've got quite a bit of surplus nikon gear....several good nikkor and quantaray zooms and some fixed length lenses too. interested in any? ps: por15 is an excellent optic preserver, lol |
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#251
01-07-2012, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
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#252
01-08-2012, 03:06 PM
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Doing some layout ideas for the rear. Thinking about running the angle iron outside the rails by about 6 inches then bringing a tube from behind the front wheels to that to act as a nerf bar. It'll get a notch cutout at the vertical rails to get it forward a bit more and tied in tighter at the corner. The box tubing piece has a bend. I want to go fully across with it and have the swingarm mounts come off of it. Right where they mount, I may put diagonal round tubes going up to the upper shock mount area to beef both areas up. Also have to move the shocks inboard by about an inch, going to drop an angle iron base into the corner; just have to rehang the engine to make sure nothing interferes.
Gave the engine another run session yesterday, according to the el cheapo tach, it was running up into the 9000 rpm level with no valve float, hit the wall at 10 grand. Seems to have a "hunting" issue for stable rpm though. Might have been the lack of an airbox and vacuum lines. Also looked like some reversion flow coming out the carb at the upper rpm levels. Today was "spring cleaning" day --- Took apart the shocks, drained them, seals all look good, this set need new mount bushings and longer lines. Came across a little trick to cleaning the springs after running them on the bench mounted wire wheel. I picked up some rolls of belt-style sandpaper at Fastenal the other day for a buck each (bargaaaain!) Stripped it lengthwise into 1/4 inch wide strips, gave it a wrap around the coil and commenced cleaning them up. Not perfect, but a good method if you don't have a blast cabinet. Just tedious! |
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#254
01-08-2012, 06:58 PM
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i know less than zilch about your new chinamotors, but if it's got a CV carb like a motorcycle than the missing airbox is the hunting rpm culprit; it's way lean.
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#255
01-11-2012, 01:55 PM
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Still kicking around ideas for the back half of the frame. I've got a good straight length of my 2x2 (I used the best, straightest pieces when i made my body dolly for my MGA) that would make probably the strongest ever kart frame tube, but it weighs in at 10 pounds! Got the garage cleaned up from yesterday's session, looked like a go kart explosion. Think i'll get the 2x2 cut and prepped along with prepping the frame and weld it up tonight along with the last couple piece of the dog shark rear.
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#256
01-12-2012, 07:27 AM
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setup the back end, haven't welded it up. It's a chunk!
Not liking the GX rubber bushed mounts all that much, haven't made up my mind if i'll go to a solid bearing style like i had before with this or just weld in some tabs and give the rubber ones a try. It's only metal
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#257
01-12-2012, 03:54 PM
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well, went to prep and weld in the new rear frame section and somehow roped myself into cleaning up and fully perimeter welding the floor pan and unfinished welds on the main tubes instead. So here's a picture of 95 pounds of yerf.
Also got to thinking about the rubber bushings at the rear--they're going to stay. I think a lot of frame distortion issues on all karts of this type are caused by having a front suspension with an active roll center and a rear suspension that's rigid with no roll. the two together equal twist-o-matic. A little give via rubber bushings should be a good thing. Last edited by x-bird; 01-12-2012 at 03:57 PM. |
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#258
01-12-2012, 04:19 PM
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i was going to say the exact same thing, dude - keep the rubbers.
that's what i decided to do for mine too |
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#259
01-13-2012, 02:43 PM
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Burned her up good last night, must have added 10 pounds of wire into it! And ground 8 of it back off
Fully welded all the seams of the new rear tubing pieces and welded the underside of the extra plating i put on the front end a while back. Saving all the little cut off bits of metal comes in handy. I'm going to drill a couple drain holes into the angle iron so it doesn't hold water down there. Finally got around to putting the first part of the Jeep spare tire holder on, it's my bash plate for the front. Already crushed one of the rectangular box sections i put in between the front and rear mounting plates, so i had to do some hammer and dolly work on it.
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#260
01-24-2012, 02:53 PM
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95 pounds of yerf now weighs in at 125 pounds in the same stripped down form. Man that's some heavy chunky! Gettin' too old for this!!
Got my rear mounts made and installed today. Next is cutting off and re-mounting the shock mounts. Going to have to hang the engine to make sure I don't pull a placing the shocks. Trying to keep picking away at it so i don't lose motivation on it.
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#261
01-25-2012, 08:57 AM
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Rock and a hard place time. valve cover just catches the frame crossmember. sprockets out of alignment (knew that because of yerf being non-reverse output shaft) exhaust is really close to the shock in the stock location, which also puts the shock really close to the tire. exhaust blocks a move of the shock mount to where i hoped to put it. Sooooooo I can cut the frame out and rebrace it for clearance. Not a real big deal--pic below. i can make or find a sprocket spacer ...bit of a pain deal I can figure out if this is a 250 muffler and use the smaller muffler that came with the other engine. OR, I can move the engine mounts back about 2 inches and over about 1/2 and resolve all three of the above in one shot. Anyone see any issues balance-wise with moving the engine back that much? longer chain. It's a bit tricky in that if i don't go back far enough, i wont be able to get at the spark plug because of interference with the upper frame rail--at the rear the reverse cable's metal neck limits how far back i can go before it hits the frame rail. |
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#262
01-25-2012, 09:36 AM
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Moving the engine farther back may limit your clearance for the chain between the engine case and axle sprocket. You could also move the axle farther back by relocating the bearing hangers and disc brake mount to compensate. The top swing arm cross bar may not clear your carburetor without using an intake riser to move the carburetor above the bar.
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#263
01-25-2012, 03:56 PM
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if i go the engine move way, i'd be moving the top cross bar so the carb interferences wouldn't be an issue. Your definitely on the money about the chain/case and it would limit future sprocket choices. Moving the bearing hangars looks like a nightmare because of the way they're welded up.
I just got rid of the shock mounts and put a gusset/plate and new mount on the swingarm. I'll be doing the frame chop and can deal with the exhaust by reworking the way the pipe turns coming off the engine. Does anyone recognize the muffler in the pic in my previous post? got it with carter 150, but i think it's for a 250. much larger pipe at the connection than the headpipe. it was cobbled onto it with muffler wrap and a pipe clamp but was still really loose. I have a steel sleeve that reduces it to fit the headpipe much better. |
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#264
01-25-2012, 05:07 PM
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It's a GY6 150 muffler, I have one identical to it. It was on the JEHM BX125 I had.
Last edited by metalstudman1; 01-25-2012 at 06:13 PM. |
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#265
01-25-2012, 06:00 PM
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thanks, i got a much smaller muffler with the sunl 150--shorter, narrower with a smaller head pipe id. the size difference made me wonder. That one has the pipe and hangars going off a completely different way. nearly everything i got in the "installed and running and brand new" parts & engine buy has "issues" the brake master last night had the retaining ring jammed in cockeyed. took 1/2 hour of monkeying with it to get it out and in correctly. Wife and little one are out daisy scouts so i'm cutting and making noise while I can.
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#266
01-26-2012, 07:43 AM
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Seems like i keep moving weight from top to bottom in this poor old thing .... not a bad thing
 but tedious. Silly me originally installed the swing arm and engine, checked for clearance and figured out where to mount it ....before i chopped and welded the rack section of the frame, which lowered the rack about 2.5-3 inches. Had me puzzled all night as to why the engine mounting cross bar hits the rack. Dawned on me this morning. So the center rack bar has to come out yet, no big loss. I have an 2.6 gallon atv fuel tank to mount up there. It'll change the way i mount it, but should still work. Got my fancy "window" all done. Going to set the shocks so there's a relatively acute angle to the subframe, have to make sure the travel is all used up and i don't punch the engine into the seatback on big hits. Basically i'm just adding more ground clearance to the rear.
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#268
01-26-2012, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
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#269
01-26-2012, 09:28 AM
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Been keeping that in mind. The rear mount on the carter that adjusts the chain/engine level is a round puck in a metal cup that doesn't fit into the yerf bracket (too wide). I may have to make a set of drop hangars to lower the front ones and make something new for the back. just about ready to weld in the upper shock mounts, once they're in i can set it down and see where the engine needs to go.
Does anyone know if there's a ready-made spacer that fits the stock yerf sprocket? need to move it over about 3/4-in. Really gotta finish this up so i can get back to the little cart. Last edited by x-bird; 01-26-2012 at 09:31 AM. |
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#270
01-26-2012, 10:16 AM
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Doubt there's a production sprocket spacer as the HD axle up-grades simply let it slide over.
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#271
01-26-2012, 11:32 AM
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Having read through some of the issues with the stock axles I expect to have to replace this sometime during the summer. For now, i'll work something up for the sprocket and see how long this one lives.
Got everything tacked in place. shocks are at 125 psi and the springs are pretty soft. Despite how it looks, with me in it, it settles in about 3 inches, don't think i'll have to make anything to level the engine. New shock location gave me enough exhaust clearance, so that issue is no more. after seeing the travel range, i didn't really need to cut that cross tube, but the end result is much stronger and dissipates the load from the shocks a lot better --and it gives nice access to the head/sparkplug. Final welding will get done later tonight. I have some nice metal rectangles (3/32nds thick by 6x12 or so) with upturned edges (more golf club rack material) that i'm going to use to fill the frame space underneath the seat to help tie that area together. I can see that with enough power, the way i have the back end connected, I could rip the back section off where the floorpan rectangle ends. I also intend to put in some diagonals from the side bars down to the bottom tubes. i've gotta switch gears and get on the little kart, as i only have 2 hours left before school's out. raining out,, so no painting today, looks like i'll get the floor and seat mount in place. |
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#272
01-26-2012, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
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#273
01-26-2012, 01:38 PM
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it's not as far out as i thought, only a sprocket-width, so the same method that you used should take care of it. Thanks to metal's input on the fev thread, i see that i need a resistor. The airbox that came with this engine is a mess -- broken mount tabs, small bolts on the cover jammed way down where a socket can't fit etc. I think just getting it decently wired and plumbed is going to give me more fits than all the fab work.
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#275
02-08-2012, 08:51 AM
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Ahhh ... back to work on my baby! Started cutting off the front a-arm spindle towers. Rather than re-use the towers as the new spindles, as I had originally planned, I got to looking at the present spindles i made for the towers. Re-using the towers involves trimming down the excess plate material, cutting the axle off the spindle, welding it to the tower and adding a steering arm.
I'm thinking i could weld a plate to the top and bottom of the spindle tubes (or run shouldered sealed bearings if i can find them) and run a single grade 8 bolt top-to-bottom capturing both heim joints and misalignment spacers if needed . The steering arm i'd cut shorter, closer to the axle centerline and weld a short tube to it parallel with the spindle's vertical tube and attach the tie rod end to that. It would knock a lot of weight off the ends skipping the towers, be less work overall, but I'd lose about an inch or so of track width on each side doing it. Anyone think this would be too weak of a setup? the spindle main tube is the 1-1/8" cro mo tubing. Last edited by x-bird; 02-08-2012 at 08:56 AM. |
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#276
02-08-2012, 01:11 PM
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if i recall correctly, adding a "4" as prefix to the part number of a sealed bearing will provide you that bearing but shouldered or snap-ringed (if it's available as such)
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#277
02-08-2012, 01:29 PM
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Got the arms de-towered and cleaned up. A friend of mine owns a railing fabrication biz (currently doing the Statue of Liberty stairs) and mentioned a machine shop next to his facility. Turns out the shop owner is a regular at our driving range and I spoke with him a few years back about making some new offset trees for my DH forks-- never came to be because i didn't have the time to race any longer ... anyway, his clientele after the tooling side that is devoted to making bearing installation and removal tools is pretty much Indy, nascar some F1 and a lot of local dirt and asphalt modified teams etc. Got an "appointment" to drop in on him over the weekend, I think we'll be coming up with a way to integrate a bearing set in the spindles along with the heims. I think the spindle will be strong enough, using it knocks 5 pounds off the end of each arm. The towers will most likely become the upper arm mounts on the frame.
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#278
02-08-2012, 01:55 PM
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losing that much unsprung weight would be really good, esp at higher speeds
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#279
02-08-2012, 04:40 PM
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Yep ... a little painful to be chopping apart this much work ... lol Just finished turning two cutting discs, 1/2 a disc flap wheel and about 2 foot of welds into a pile of that magical yerf dust ... Steering hangar and supporting gussets are now in the scrap bin. Trying to figure out what i can work on next. kind of stalled with any fabrication until i finish the spindle. Once that's done i can start building the mounts for the second set of arms as well as the arms. Then its shock mounts and steering rack.
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#280
02-08-2012, 04:45 PM
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undoing hard work sucks.
i feel for ya |
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#281
02-08-2012, 07:32 PM
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If you could see my waste boxes of things I've made that didn't function exactly right and got tossed- then got butchered into something else to be tossed again!!!!! Everyone needs a "bone yard"!!! to show your dedication and progressive skill levels, my poor man cave lives in a haze of gray dust from grinding & cutting!!!!
I realized a while back that our time is the "cheapest" commodity around when you figure the time spent on these toys. |
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#282
02-08-2012, 10:28 PM
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Yes it is a necessity for every properly equipt man cave to have a bone yard. I can not tell you how many times I have pulled off on to the shoulder of the hwy. or road to do my civic duty and pick up that piece of steel laying in the road. It takes a trained eye to spot a good piece of steel or whatever @ 70.LOL
TOM |
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#283
02-09-2012, 09:06 AM
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Getting ready to pick up some tubing and am working on beefing up the frame to be able to support the cage properly and stiffen the entire works.
Up front, the exact layout will really be determined by what needs cut out of the way to install the upper arms. i already know that the main pair of tubes that run from the bottom to the top frame section up front have to get chopped at the vertical to fit the arm mounts. I'm most likely going to remove the outer tubing run as well (where i have the upper fender mount tube) and replace it with a straight run from the corner to the "snout" and support the corners off that. The roll cage tubing is going to be new, as it no longer exists and was too short after i chopped the bolt-tabs off. I think i'm going to pick it up just a little outboard of stock, at the tubing junction. On the sides either a single diagonal or an "x" should help reduce any "belly" flexing and will support anything coming from the cage at the rear. At the rear, the stock setup just looks like a house of cards waiting to flop rearwards, so i'm thinking of tying the cage upper run to the top tube as was original, but then putting in tubes from the top down to the bottom rack tube, then from there down to the base frame corner. about the only way to route it without getting into the shocks. Thoughts??? |
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#284
02-10-2012, 10:38 AM
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OK, so i set out to do something simple today ... align the sprockets ....simple, but not easy. I looked at just spacing out the sprocket with washers,like GX150 did, but don't like the idea all that much. It moves the sprocket off the hub and will introduce the chance of having the sprocket off center giving unequal chain tension through rotation. Whee! ... cue the creepy deja-vu music to the fits and frustrations of setting up my chainrings on my BMX bike every weekend at the track so it ran even all the way around!
Instead i figure, ok i'll just find a tube or hub to slide on the axle and weld in place. So i measure the axle OD and the hub OD to figure out what it wants ... How's 30.956 mm or dec. 1.218 ID and 57.94mm or dec. 2.2812 OD. strike you? Who be programming their mills? lol No such thing really exists out there that I could find. I did find that the mini shark's original sprocket and brake hub has the correct OD on the flange portion, it's machined so it should be nicely concentric. I may bring it along to the machine shop tomorrow to see if he'll bore and face it, but i really don't like dumping anything extra in that trip. Ti'l then, I think i'll pop a few washers in to make sure that it's the right width. if not, i'll have to have him do both sides of it and chop and stack them. I'll still need to space the sprocket off the original hub, but at least this method will provide support and correct centering of the sprocket around the axle. If anyone knows of a hub that will slide onto the stock yerf axle, please let me know! |
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#285
02-11-2012, 12:22 PM
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Made some progress in finishing up on the rear end the past couple days. The seemingly inexhaustible supply of golf club racks donated some nice thick (just under 1/8th) metal with 90-degree edges to use to finish the flooring under the seat.
Yesterday turned into "exhaust" day. Not sure if what I started with was original to the carter or not, but it didn't work as it was, so i started off by making a muffler bearing (heh, never thought I'd use THAT in a sentence ) out of the remains of the golf cart spindles. That gave me something that fit into the muffler's clamp pipe, i closed up the slots beyond where the headpipe inserts so it seals nice and snug. Also chopped and moved the mount (used a yerf cage mounting tab) so it's closer to the engine and gives a little more room by the frame, then painted her up. Let's see if anyone can ID my exhaust color before SSM ... Spent the morning setting up the wiring runs for a box, connected the vacuum lines, installed the redneck unifilter hose and set my tank in place ($4.50 on ebay plus $12 to ship). Then it was off to HPVE (machine shop) to discuss a plan for the front suspension. Decided to go with a pair of plates welded to the end of the arm clevis style. A custom made spindle shaft with a shock-mount style bottom will get pinned there and the top will take a spacer along with a heim. Frank's (shop owner) recommendation was to stick with the bronze bearings in the tube, avoid using heims on the lowers and have the shaft capture the upper heim. Best part about the whole deal was that he asked if i'd be willing to have the work done for trade, didn't even have to bring it up with him. He's also going to knock out a spacer (just a plain weld in deal) for the axle sprocket. Talk about drool factor, beautiful equipment in an old Easton felt factory, and gorgeous suspension parts all around. Among those were the A-arms for the Audi R8 WSC race cars. Talk about machined and fabricated artwork. Totally aero, featherweight and strong! Made my chunks look like ... well chunks Time for a test fire on the engine to see how it runs with everything hooked up this time. BTW ... battery box pic just shows why I can't stand open seams in any exposed, welded parts. The box came off the yerf swingarm, which was one of the ones from BMI. Last edited by x-bird; 02-11-2012 at 12:27 PM. |
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#286
02-11-2012, 12:44 PM
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It's coming together-So what equipment get's that color? IMO- Drill some holes in the corners of all your floor pans(I know there's already holes in it)-I had to increase my drainage/mud holes to 1-1/4" so when I wash it- it get's the chunks out. I also drilled 1-1/4" holes at the seat bolt locations for easy socket access instead of trying to be a contortionist.
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#288
02-11-2012, 01:41 PM
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Hard to see, but i did remember the seat bolt holes--almost welded them in without them. I'm going to take the step drill to the front corners of the floor and probably one in each of the last pans i added in for wash drainage 1" is the biggest size i have --I'm down to one battery for my drill/saw the positive tab on my other one completely melted into the battery case while stripping the frame for the pans. Brushes were loose in the drill, so that put an end to work while my other one charges.
Just shot some video of it running, spotted a vacuum source that I'm not sure where it goes, likely to the original airbox. covering it stalls it out. It takes 1-2 hours for my youtube uploads, I have no idea what one of these should sound like, so I'd like to hear what you guys think of it once i get the vid posted. BTW, Tom has it. ;~) That's the early pontiac Robin's egg engine color, had a few squirts left in a can and figured what the heck! |
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#289
02-11-2012, 03:22 PM
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Ignore the metallic rattling and any smoke (shockbolts and exhaust paint) at higher revs it sounds a little on the "raspy" side ... While it seems to only like being taken up in revs smooth and slow, I think that's only because of the way it's sitting. I'd love to be able to actually drive this to see if can handle being loaded and whether it's worth messing with. I still have the 4-bolt head Sunl engine sitting untouched. Also need to dig up a ballast resistor for it yet--neither engine had one.
http://youtu.be/s_iw_aaH2ts |
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#290
02-11-2012, 04:26 PM
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The motor sounds good!!! That muffler is quiet too!!! Will it idle?any smoke out the exhaust?
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#291
02-11-2012, 04:58 PM
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The engine sounds good, the acelleration sounds like carb issues. The ballast resistor is for the fuel enrichment, it lowers voltage to the enrichment valve to slow the closing of the needle against the enrichment jet. Was the enrichment hooked up or was this a cold engine without the enrichment?
TOM |
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#292
02-11-2012, 05:27 PM
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Everything that has wires is connected. If the FEV is under the 2-in. or so tall black plastic cover on the left side of the carb as viewed from the rear, then yes it's hooked up and running without a resistor = bad X. ))
That's a short clip of the first couple minutes of about 15 minutes run time. It holds idle fine--i bumped it up a little because it was sputtering a little on initial tip in. The one vacuum port that i don't have hooked to anything is just below the top gold cad plated cover (think it's a diaphragm cover of some type) Blocking that kills it asap, I take it running a line off it into the air filter would probably be the best thing to do with it? (I don't like open ports beyond the air filter) It also seemed to start out pretty quiet and got louder by the end of the run, i may chop a bit of the last of the run out of the vid to see if it sounds any different. I've got tinnitus, didn't wear my "ears" and will have the ringing from that session for the next day or so. Once it hits--about 5 minutes in it got to me -- everything seems really loud. Near the end of the run I was getting a little bit of smoke out of the exhaust while running the throttle up in the mid-range. I have no idea how it's jetted, what the valves are like etc. Aside from fixing up the variator and putting on a new belt, I haven't opened anything up on it. In the next day or so I'm going to take the other carb apart, read up on these CVs on the forums here and get myself some education on them. Hopefully I won't wreck any gaskets. Wishful thinking lol. Where's a Q-jet when u need it? ))) Oh ...reverse gear .. I don't have a handle for it yet --about $25 on e-bay or rig something up. I saw you mentioned something in another thread about a cam-style lever/handle for them. I gather it has a protrusion on the handle that rides on an eccentric? I tried pulling on the cable while idling with no drive movement and the idle down pretty low and couldn't get it to budge. Do these take a lot of effort to move the shift fork? Last edited by x-bird; 02-11-2012 at 05:32 PM. |
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#294
02-11-2012, 07:38 PM
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On the GY6 there is only one vacuum line on the carb that should be hooked up. It may be the one you are talking about. it's on the right side (opposite of the FEV) and it connect's directly to the intake manifold to that little barb. Sometimes there may be a T coming off a tube from the intake manifold but you can remove it and run a line strait from that vacuum hose. The T I think, was meant for a gas tank with the pump on it.
It takes a lot of muscle to pull the cable into reverse without the lever. Even if you get it pulled out its hard to get it to stay there. The good thing about this is, is if your on a trail and the cable breaks, it will break in the forward position. This looks to be like the reverse lever you'r talking about from ebay. The one that came with my gearbox sucks! It is the type you have to push forward to go into reverse, and when I'm buckled in my seat belt it can be hard to get it all the way there. I will be switching to one of these real soon. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reverse-Leve...ht_2518wt_1163 |
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#295
02-12-2012, 10:53 AM
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I have the one you're referring to connected correctly. I posted in the engine section as to how i hooked up the various ports and the one that is presently open to the air. There are a couple i'm still not sure about. they may not necessarily be vacuum ports but i'd still like to make sure i've got them right.
Meantime, just checked the valves, looking at .07 exh and .04 intake. The manual shows a 4-bolt head and gives a range for both intake and exhaust of .08 to .12, this is a 2-bolt, don't know if it matters, and i think it was Tom who stated that .03 and .05 are the numbers to shoot for. Just want to make sure those are good for this head/valve set. |
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#296
02-12-2012, 11:30 AM
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You want to set the valves at .003 int. and .005 exh. for either 2or 4 bolt cover. The manuals call for .003 - .005 on both but .003 on intake will bring the best performance and the .005 on the exhaust keeps the valve on the seat a touch longer too aid in cooling since most drive these things long and hard.
Lines you will naturally have the fuel line as well as a vacume line going to fuel pump if equipted. If no fuel pump you will have a vacume line from int. to the air comp valve on right side of carb.The right side of carb will also have a short turned down hose which is the bowl vent and just hangs there, a hose comming off bottom of carb for the bowl drain just hangs there and the vent tube off the valve cover which also just hangs there. TOM |
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#297
02-12-2012, 11:57 AM
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Quote:
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#299
02-12-2012, 11:24 PM
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Gave it another run this afternoon after adjusting the valves and getting the ports figured out. Thank you all for the help on those.
No smoke out the exhaust, had some paint burning off the muffler's tailpipe the other day. the cam lobes do have some minor scuffing on them. Gonna have to keep an eye on them in case they start going away. new video where i don't sound like i'm inhaling helium ... man utube doesn't like me "duplicate video ...access denied" even though it was retitled ... so here goes another 3-hour upload .... And 5 remakes of this little video later and i have something passable. I use NCH Videopad Video editor and somehow reset my audio compression rate and video type and have no idea what it should be. So the audio isn't what it should be and the vid is a bit blocky http://youtu.be/d07c6sv54_Y Last edited by x-bird; 02-13-2012 at 05:51 PM. |
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#300
02-14-2012, 07:50 AM
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Probably going to be a week or so until i see the parts for the lower arms, but at least i have my ball park dimensions so i can begin making the pick-up points.
Said adios to the off-kilter front tubes and chopped the old swingarm towers to use as mounts (reuse before recycle) I still need to clean them up so they sit in place correctly and trim the tubes. Going to try for a front steer setup with the rack.
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