My Yerf dog 3206

[jmansracerocket]

any more news on the front shocks?

[T3beatz]

I've been using this type http://www.ebay.com/itm/isb-12-5-8-3...23e2a9&vxp=mtr for the past year and they have held up very good.

[jmansracerocket]

yo whats up t3 where have u been I might try those shocks, r they to soft though our they a nice ride for trail riding where I wont have to worry about bottoming out

[xlint89]

Sorry Jman, haven't done any trail riding to try out the "other" shocks yet. Just been running on the asphalt "track" when I do ride it. (Been VERY busy trying to get the summer toys all lined up now that the kart is running and steering well)

[T3beatz]

I have not bottomed them out yet and this is from riding very hard on the trails at St. Joe. They are super adjustable.
The can go from very soft to very hard by adjusting the pre-load screw

The first pic is with them on my buggy, ( I've since painted the front over and had put over 150 miles on the shocks) you can see how mine is modded. I have an older buggy and it had shorter upper A-Arms so I extended them and made new shock mounts on the bottom ones.

The second pic, is the mod that I did so that I can change out the shock oil at anytime. I just drilled and tapped to holes in the top and now I can service the oil pretty easy on them without having to break the shock down.
and Yes the shock is rebuildable.

Next, I'm thinking about getting rid of the way it bolts up to the nose piece and putting heims in place of the bushing-bolt type of setup. Right now there is too much play for me, and it will cost over 40 bucks for new bushings, it will cost about the same for metal and hardware to change things over, but it would be much tighter not get loose as quick.

[2SlickNick]

Nice vehicle!!!!! Just found your thread and Wow!!

[xlint89]

Thanks, it's a lot of fun. Hardly any off road with it, but it does do well in the Burger King drive thru.... (my "track" is an old burger King parking lot)

[xlint89]

Went out today to get my new top speed run, and the GPS batteries died. UGH.....


Guess I shouldn't have checked all of those acceleration runs prior.

Did have a cop stop me tonight and ask if the cannon was loaded. LOL

I'm averaging about 30.4 MPH in my 300' test with my current set up.

I did have a couple "hero runs" of 31.2 and 31.4 MPH, but those were almost cheating. Held my foot into it a little longer and actually swung wide into the turn. Still though, 0 to 30 MPH in a Burger King parking lot is pretty good for a 150cc go kart/mini buggy with a scooter engine. Not bad...

[2SlickNick]

Not bad at all. No woods in Cleveland; I take it....
I at least have some woods directly down the street. I have to cross through a creek ( pronounced "crick" in WV) that always makes my belt slip a little and then the trails are really rutted out so I ride the top of the ruts. After a few miles of it I am wore out. J really need rack and pinion. I wish I did my research a little better and got scooter type engine with more torque , than a lawn mower engine. I still have fun riding and modifying the kart though.
There is a Burger King about 1/4 mile from me and behind it is the Ohio river. Awesome woods there protected by a guard rail. I am gonna drop a ramp off there and roll over it to access the woods thus week. The atv just go through the 3 foot deep creek. My buggy and I have to be clever to get to what looks like some if the best trails ( not rutted up) near by.

[xlint89]

Not a lot of riding land near here. You gotta drive out for a ways, or know someone with land. I just have fun running around my "track" if you will.

I was so focused on gaining more speed in my acceleration test that I didn't realize what I was missing.

With my new A10 cam, the 2.2mm stroker crank, 14g sliders, and the 36T axle sprocket I was expecting to see more speed gain, unfortunately I didn't gain anything. BUT....

What I just realized was that I didn't LOSE anything. My acceleration is exactly the same as before, but I am now pulling the 14g sliders as opposed to the 12g sliders. What that means is I've added another 12g of weight (total) to my variator with no ill effects on bottom end. I can't wait to see what I get for my top speed run now......

And if I can "tune" out my midrange flat spot, I will only increase my acceleration speeds.

It launches really nice, (kinda pins you to your seat) falls a little flat, and then really starts to take off about midway down the track. So, if I can eliminate that mid range bog and have a smooth acceleration all the way through the RPM range, I should see decent gains of speed at the end of my runs.

[xlint89]

Found this to be very good if you're using a mikuni carb like I am.

http://forums.pstuning.com/index.php?showtopic=545

[bear]

Heck, I know some "beater" cars that wont do 30 in a BK parking lot!!!

[jmansracerocket]

^^ lol

[jmansracerocket]

sounds like ur making good progress xlint now get the new battery and let us know what ur new top speed is

[xlint89]

Sorry for the lack of posting.

Tires didn't like the cold, and they broke free really easily. Took a turn a little fast, and BOOM!!!! Smack into the 6" curb/building.

Ckau's heims held up great. The reinforced spindles, not so much. I guess I need to add 1 more gusset to them.







Everything is supposed to be flat, straight, and square. Oops.....

[jmansracerocket]

wow where have u been

[Masteryota]

Welcome back, old friend.

[x-bird]

Hey Xlint, good to see u still around --not good on the circumstances though ...

Anywho, that bent at the tie rod load, correct?
If so, it's easier to make that stronger if you go vertical with the heim instead of horizontal. Gets rid of the through bolt interfering with a good strong pair of gussets. you can box the steering arm pretty much completely from below and to the outside.

[bear]

Wow, you must have been rolling!!!

[bear]

P.s. good to here from another "buckeye" again!

[xlint89]

Hey, thanks for the kind words guys. I've been checking in every now and again.

I was prob doing a little over 20 MPH when I hit the curb and building (brick), Back end washed out and pointed me right at it/them. Hit the curb, rolled up over it, and right into the building. Left a tire mark on the brick. And a good lump on my wrist. (still hurts weeks later)

Yes X-bird, at the tie rod load. I plan on adding another gusset right underneath the one in the middle pic. (That's where she bent, once reinforced there, it shouldn't ever bend/twist ever again.

I'll tell you what, after all of the reinforcements are done, the Yerf can take a beating. I've slid into curbs sideways while drifting, jumped over curbs because the snow was too deep (or bald tires) and just kept going straight after I turned, and even let my 9 year old nephew drive it. He managed to jump the curb so bad, we wound up partially on the sidewalk

That's the one down side of making the kart accelerate faster. You get into big trouble much sooner.

The thing is a blast though. There has not been 1 person that didn't laugh while driving it. I've had 60 year old ladies all the way to 9 year old kids drive it, and every one of them had a ball.....

I'll be back to post some more stuff.

[bear]

Ah, nothing like a "bullet proof" buggy! good job 89!

[xlint89]

UH OH........

Did I say bullet proof????? DOH!!!!


It isn't good when you find pieces like this inside the intake manifold, or or exhaust pipe. RIGHT????

[xlint89]

Looks like I'm going to have to change my signature.

[xlint89]

Well, you can scratch the 58.5mm Nikasil cyl and the NCY ported head with SS valves off of my build.


The good news is, my cases are at Syc performance as I write this.

My new NCY 62mm Nikasil cylinder and A 12 cam is already here.

As well as the new valves and seals for the home ported stock head.

[jmansracerocket]

Holy carp!!!!!! Both valves completely destroyed

[x-bird]

you lunched that puppy but good! did you lean it out too much or did something go with the timing chain?

[SYCARMS]

Noticed the discoloration on the exhaust side of head and cylinder as if the head gasket was leaking.

[xlint89]

Originally Posted by jmansracerocket

Holy carp!!!!!! Both valves completely destroyed

Yeah, along with the head, piston, cylinder, and might as well throw in the oil pump too. (not taking chances with all that metal floating around in the oil

Originally Posted by x-bird

you lunched that puppy but good! did you lean it out too much or did something go with the timing chain?

Didn't touch carb setting s at all. My guess is timing chain mishap.

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Noticed the discoloration on the exhaust side of head and cylinder as if the head gasket was leaking.

It might just be dirty oil making it look like that, but I can get more pics of something specific if you want.

Tom, I didn't send the crank with the cases because I checked it out really good after cleaning out the bearings twice. Pretty confident we're still good to go. Even though there a couple dimples on the connecting rod. That connecting rod on this crank is really heavy duty compared to my stock rod.

[SYCARMS]

I was looking at the mating surface of head and cylinder. On exhaust side looks as if there was an exhaust leak by the discoloration of the metal or a hot spot. I've seen this once before on a blown engine like yours.

[jmansracerocket]

any updates xlint?

[xlint89]

Parts gathering my friend.

Got my cases bored by Tom. Also bought a good set of American made valve springs from him too.

Got my new Taiwanese made A12 camshaft here

Ordered a set of new oil seals and a couple trans bearings that felt a little gritty. Better to be safe since I'm this far into it. Still waiting on them.

NCY 62mm Nikasil coated cylinder is here.

Ordered up one of those big valved Taida heads. (30mm INT and 26mm EX) Wasn't real happy with the machine work. There was a scratch (could catch a finger nail) that ran through the combustion chamber all the way to the end of the head. And the exhaust port gasket surface was not milled completely. I'd say 80% was milled, while the other 20% was still rough cast. Because of that, there was an EXTREMELY small amount of gasket sealing surface at the bottom of the port. Maybe 1mm (yeah, 1mm) of sealing surface. Can you say guaranteed exhaust leak????

So because of that, I sent the head back to the seller for an exchange. Waiting to hear back from them with my new one. The thing that sucks is, the cases showed up the day I sent the head back.

So I can't start to assemble the engine. Once it's all together,it goes into the buggy pretty quick.

[jmansracerocket]

Ok xlint keep us updated

[xlint89]

All parts are finally here. Now I can begin the engine building process.

[jmansracerocket]

Good deal cant wait to hear the results

[xlint89]

Got some buggy porn for you guys

[xlint89]

Some good stuff from Tom at Syc Powersports

Bored cases with fresh bearings, seals and the American made valve springs. Notice how the inner and outer coils spin in opposite directions, unlike the normal ones? (much better)

[xlint89]

Wow, look at the difference between the aftermarket performance crankshaft connecting rod, and the stocker.

I bought a NCY, and the sticker says NCY, but the box SCREAMS Ruima!!!!

[jmansracerocket]

wow that's some good stuff there!

[xlint89]

Cleaned up the head (casting slag) and polished the exhaust port.

Installed the American made valve springs. Quite a bit stiffer than any of the other ones I've ever encountered. I actually had to use a spring compressor to install these, as opposed to just using my thumbs.

Installed the new trans bearings into the case.

Installed the new engine and trans seals into the case.

Started to assemble the bottom when I realized 2 rookie mistakes:

1. I failed to sort and mark the bolts for their location. Normally not a problem, but when your rebuild drags into weeks, you tend to forget what went where. (never realized all the different length bolts these use, I thought the majority were pretty much same length)

2. I failed to chase all the bolt holes. There was a lot of crap inside the bolt holes that prevented them from running all the way in.



I clay checked the piston to valve clearance because I thought the larger valves may be an issue. Clay says there is no problem using the large valve head with the 62mm NCY piston.

Checked ring gap. I read .004 for every inch of bore size, and add another .002 for the second ring. 62mm is just under 2 1/2"

There was no need to modify. Top ring was a tight .010 from NCY and 2nd ring was .013

Adjusted the rocker arm to valve clearances to .003 Intake and .005 on Exhaust

Why I don't know? But with the cylinder spacer installed for the stroker crank, I have to use a longer (more links) timing chain. I was hoping with the taller Taida head that would work perfect. But no.

I had to add another 2 links (4 total from stock now) to my timing chain to accomodate. This sucks because I had to add a bolt to the bottom of my timing chain tensioner in order to make up for the excess slack in my chain.

At last she is all back together with new upgrades done. Just need to add some gear lube to the trans, and install the CVT cover.

Then I get the fun task of trying to shoe-horn the engine back into the frame.

I'm sure I'll need to modify the exhaust slightly to make up for the taller head.

And I will most likely be installing larger gauge wires for the starter and ground. The added bore size with longer stroke will put a hurting on the stock starter, so she'll need all the muscle she can get from the battery.

[jmansracerocket]

Good to hear shes all together

[xlint89]

The new engine is ALIVE!!!!!!

Installed 8 gauge wire from the battery to the starter solenoid (stock was 10 gauge)

Funny thing was, the solenoid to the starter had 8 gauge wire already????? 10 gauge feeding the 8 gauge makes no sense to me.

Just ran it for a few second the first fire up, and about 25-30 seconds on the second.

I'm done for the night.... 1 AM

[jmansracerocket]

Good deal

[jmansracerocket]

Time to break her in xlint

[xlint89]

Yeah, I hate break in. You gotta have self control.........

[jmansracerocket]

Lol u aint kidding takes up so much time to I did 6 or 7 hrs total cant remember

[xlint89]

You have self control. I will most likely be doing about half of that, and then dropping the hammer.

[jmansracerocket]

Lol I its was tuff

[SYCARMS]

I have found that if you break in a motor as compared to no break in is 10-15 more psi of compression. Break in will give you a better ring seat.

[xlint89]

I didn't say I wasn't going to break it in. I won't be doing a 7 to 10 hour break in.

I do have a problem though, and I don't know why????

For some reason my reverse gear box is splitting apart while driving now. It didn't do that before.

The sprocket side of the gear box is "walking" towards the engine until the chain rubs on the engine mount.

Anyone have a clue why this might be happening?

This isn't showing my exact problem, just a picture of my set up.

[SYCARMS]

Only 2 things I can think of. 1) the spacer between case and reverse unit. 2). sprocket bolts loosening letting sprocket move toward case.

[xlint89]

Thanks Tom.

1. I'll have to get a pic of the spacer set up, but the sprocket side of the gearbox can actually slip over the spacers. The sprocket is bolted to that gearbox half, so I can't really use anything up against it (to hold it in position)

2. I thought the same thing and moved the axle sprocket towards the passenger side. Sprockets are now out of alignment and the same thing is still happening.

[ckau]

Originally Posted by xlint89

Thanks Tom.

1. I'll have to get a pic of the spacer set up, but the sprocket side of the gearbox can actually slip over the spacers. The sprocket is bolted to that gearbox half, so I can't really use anything up against it (to hold it in position)

2. I thought the same thing and moved the axle sprocket towards the passenger side. Sprockets are now out of alignment and the same thing is still happening.

Just guessing here..... Possibly motor torqueing over, tugging at reverse box ? The rear chain adjuster mount doesn't do much other than suspend the rear of the motor. I have had problems with the motor twisting action pulling the chain slack and misaligning the sprockets and this is without a reverse box! I can only imagine the force it places on the reverse mechanism.

[GX150]

Double check that spacer. If it is stepped, you may have it in the wrong way. Is the nut on the output shaft tight? Does yours have a spacer or washer between the the nut and reverse assembly? There should not be any room for the reverse assembly to move laterally on the shaft.

[xlint89]

Thanks for the suggestions Ckau.

My spacer is a stack of washers. I pieced together a reverse kit from Ebay.

Nut on output shaft is snug, not super tight.

I have a spacer between the gearbox and the output shaft nut.

The gearbox main body doesn't move. The sprocket side of it does.

I'll have to get up to the kart and take a few pics for you guys as it's hard to explain.

Anyways, mine looks like this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GEAR-BOX-W-R...43d15e&vxp=mtr

See how the splined collar protrudes from the sprocket? My washers are tight to the collar. The gearbox "half" can slip over my washers and seperate from the main body.

I may have to look inside the gearbox and see if I maybe broke some snap ring or something?

[SYCARMS]

The gear box is not suppose to move at all. The shift fork moves the planetary internally in and out switching between forward & reverse as you pull or release the cable. The end nut is what holds the 2 halves together the spacer keeps the case side of reverse box from moving.

[x-bird]

You need the stepped spacer, (usually two spacers that fit together on the step, one wide, one narrow) it's the right diameter to hold the gearbox in place.

You answered your own question when you stated your washer stack/spacers allow the sprocket to ride right over.

The spacers rotate with the sprocket, on the engine side of them you need to make sure they butt against the bearing race and don't hit the engine case and drag on it.

[xlint89]

It seems as though everyone is in line with the answer.

Now does anyone know where I can find spacers for this? Or do I have to come up with that on my own?

Just wondering why this is happening now, and didn't do this before?

Thanks guys

[SYCARMS]

I have spacers in stock but don't know if it will work. There are several different rev boxes which look identical but use different spacers. Carter and Kinroad boxes look almost identical but one won't fit the other since the output shaft and spacer are different due to difference in rev box. I would need to know what that gear box was off.

[xlint89]

Generic gear box from Ebay.

How much are the spacers? I may just get 1 of everything. Thanks

[jmansracerocket]

Xlint u break that bad boy in yet?? Ive been breaking mine in and man what a difference

[xlint89]

Slowly getting some time on it.

I've got issues with the gearbox though, so I need to address it.

Trying to rejet the carb too. Old settings are too lean for this set up.

[SYCARMS]

What's up with the gearbox?

[xlint89]

I need that spacer for it.

[SYCARMS]

I have the spacer that fits the Kinroad and older HH and Carter. This bushing has an outer lip(rim) on one side and an internal lip on the other end. Imagine a top hat with a hole in the top. Total length 25mm, inside diameter 28mm, outer lip thickness 5mm, outer lip diameter39mm, inner lip thickness 6mm, inner diameter of lip 20mm. Cost is 10.00 plus shipping. Give me a call 662.301.1563 or e-mail me tom@sycpowersports.com. I will be in and out of the shop most of the day.

[xlint89]

Email sent. Thanks Tom

[xlint89]

Tore into the gearbox tonight, didn't find anything out of the ordinary. I just wonder if this a symptom of a bigger issue going on?

When driving, the kart seems to have more vibration than normal.

And upon removal of the gearbox, I found that the chain gets tight, and really loose depending on the tire rotation. I know a tight point is normal for chains, but I'm talking tight, rotate the wheels a bit and I have 1" of slack on the chain, then it gets tight again. 0 - 1" of slack seems very excessive to me.

Here you can see the problem I was talking about. (but never was an issue until after the new rebuild)






And in this pic, you can see how I moved the sprocket to the passenger side to see if the chain was "pulling" it towards the engine. Sprockets are now out of alignment

[SYCARMS]

From what you explain it would seem that one of the rotating shafts are bent. Either the output shaft or the axle.

[TheFauxFox]

Maybe a bearing in the axle hangers is messed up and causing it to swing about on every rotation?

[x-bird]

i cant' see the output shaft being bent causing that much eccentric in the run. axle, maybe. take the chain off, jack up the rear and set something next to the sprocket teeth tips. Rotate the axle and see how much out of round travel you have. then do the same for the axle. Either bent axle or sprocket is not concentric to the axle.

As far as the gearbox goes. either the output shaft is a mismatch to the reverse box or you're missing something. it should slide on the shaft and come to a stop with the other half aligned for the mount brackets.

[xlint89]

Yeah, I'm going to have to look into the out of round further. I have a higher priority at the moment. Trying to get another jet ski water worthy and stickers updated by Sat.

I can see the axle being bent considering how many major hits it's taken

Thanks for the ideas guys

[xlint89]

Yep, axle is bent.

Sprocket moves about 1/4" up and down while the wheels wobble around pretty good.

Got to see what BD is doing for the heavy duty axle replacements....

The newly redone web site lists only stock like axles. And they "pro rate" them when returned now.

[Masteryota]

Yeah, honestly I would look into either retrofitting a diff model axle to the yerf like jerseydevil did, or convert it to a conventional kart axle like most of us have done. I hear mixed-bad reviews on the HD axles. Some were bent right out of the box, that I would avoid paying hard earned $$ for.

[xlint89]

Put the stock axle back on with the 31T sprocket, I'd imagine top speed should increase.

Installed the reverse gearbox spacer from Tom, worked out good.

Changed the "break in" oil.

Changed the throttle valve in the carb as the one installed was larger than stock. (bought it used)

Took it out for a little "shake down" and did good. Need to readjust the carb with the new valve installed, but that will come in time.

So far so good.

[jmansracerocket]

good deal hopefully it holds up

[SYCARMS]

Glad to hear the spacer was the correct one.

[xlint89]

Getting closer.

Leaning out the pilot jets. Started with a 22.5 and am now down to a 17.5. It's not too bad, but still a little blubbery on the last clip position of the needle.

I'm hoping a 15 pilot and second from the top needle should do it.

Still taking it easy for break in, but it's got some good midrange pull thus far even with the 31T sprocket on there. (Was using a 36T)

[xlint89]

Got the Mikuni dialed in pretty good now. 20 pilot 180 main top clip 3 1/4 turns out on the Air mix screw with the 4.0 throttle valve.

No mid range bog any more, very snappy bottom end. Working my way up to more throttle since I'm still breaking her in. So the main jet may still change, but so far it's a winner.

Oh, and that's with the 20" rear tires instead of the 22" I used to run, and with the stock 31 T rear sprocket too. I imagine the bottom end response would be slightly better with the 36T sprocket back on it.

[xlint89]

Well, I dodged a bullet......

So there's a really big bike Rally in Chillcothe OH. (Easyriders Rodeo Tour)

I wanted to take the kart and pull a trailer of friends behind it, so I made some mods to her.



Added a 2" ball hitch

Installed the NCY ball bearing clutch spring seat to stiffen the stock spring up

Installed 12g sliders instead of the 14g

Re-installed the 39t rear sprocket and longer chain

Stock CDI (lower rev limiter than NCY)

Figured these mods should allow me to pull some weight with her.

Sooooo........ We needed some ice while camping and you're allowed to drive your kart/ATV/golf cart/SXS or whatever down a short stretch of road (maybe 1/2 mile) to get to a gas station on the corner. (waving to Sheriffs as you go bye)

I noticed the kart was revving pretty high with the gear change and was only running around 20-25 MPH I would guess. Figured it should pull a trailer with no problem now.

Got back with no issue.

Did the trip 1 more time a little while later for some adult beverages and had no issues.

Now the time comes to really try this thing out. So I hook up the trailer, load up 4 guys on the back with the GF riding shotgun. Start it up and it dies.

Push the start button and it stops cranking. Start it up and it dies. Can't get it started again. BUMMER!!!!!!!

Fast forward to tearing it down and.........


The top timing chain guide slid off.

Here's where I dodged the bullet. BOTH valves kissed the piston. (made contact) BUT, neither one bent.

I made a modification to the chain guide and put it all back together. And she fired right back up when i was done. Whew.......

[xlint89]

Also found a set of front shocks that work really well for the Yerf. It's been so long since i bought them (and never installed until now) I forgot what they're off of.

I THINK they are from a Kawasaki Mojave

Seems like they would be a good replacement shock with little or no modification to make them fit.

[jmansracerocket]

Well glad to hear its holding up somewhat

[SYCARMS]

How did the top chain guide slip off the chain?

[xlint89]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

How did the top chain guide slip off the chain?

Using the shim/spacer under the cyl for the 2.2mm crank, the stock chain is too tight. So I had to add 2 links to it.

Now it's really loose and relies on the chain tensioner heavily. And there are only those 2 tiny little tabs to keep it aligned with the guide. One of those tabs was broke.

I suspect me running down that road really wound it up when going down a slight hill and the chain prob started bouncing pretty good? Not too sure.....

[SYCARMS]

Milling the head .025-.035 will correct this problem thus giving you a higher compression. That guide should be replaced. Eventually you recent mishap will occur again and you may not be as lucky.

[xlint89]

I suppose I could ditch the spacer altogether and use a thicker base gasket VS. shaving the head. That would prob be the ideal thing to do.

With the mod I did to the guide, I doubt that would pop off again.

But better to do it right, than use a band-aid.

[xlint89]

Removed the (.060) spacer and installed a .031 thou gasket with a thin coat of sealer on all mating surfaces. Hoping to achieve .035 total. That would be a .025 thou reduction from the spacer.

Removed the 2 extra links from the timing chain I had added.

Chain installed with a tiny bit of slack on it now. (success!!!) Thanks for the recommendation Tom.

Engine rolls over just fine. No piston to valve contact.

Fired her up and it runs pretty good. Lots of bottom end oomph...

Even with the stock CDI installed it seems to rev too high for my liking at WOT. I may be looking into replacing the stock Yerf internal gearing now. I think she's got enough balls to pull something with a bit more top speed now.

Or has anyone installed the slightly longer belt with good feedback? I wonder if this will pull down some of my RPM? Thanks

All engine specs are listed in my signature

[jmansracerocket]

xlint are you still using the 14 gram sliders?? maybe try 16 or 17 gram sliders? I was using 16 gram rollers when I had the combo and it still pulled off the line quick, but that was with a 39 tooth sprocket, so I don't know if u have ur 36 tooth sprocket on there or the 31.

[SYCARMS]

How are you measuring the rpm and how high do they go?

[xlint89]

Actually I think I still have the 12g sliders in there right now. (never swapped them back after labor day) Running the 31T rear sprocket.

Tom, just running by ear right now. (Sportster didn't have one for a long time) Haven't heard it hit the rev limiter at all.

When RPM increases and speed doesn't, time to back off.

Belt appears to travel all the way up the variator. Maybe 1/8" short of the very edge of the sheave.

[jmansracerocket]

try some heavier rollers or sliders first i bet that will help, like i said i had 16 gram rollers in mine when i had the same setup as you but had the 39tooth sprocket

[SYCARMS]

Jman is correct. Of all the work I have done to my engine, bore case, p&p head, dial in new cam including pulling, disassembling, cleaning, reassembly, and test run, I have spent 3 times tuning the cvt including torque and clutch springs.

[xlint89]

So today I went back into the CVT and found that I did put the 14gr sliders back in.

But I did find that the variator was sticking on the boss pin. I think it was hanging up and not allowing it to open up all the way.

After cleaning it (boss pin) and the variator I.D., it spins and slides really nice now.

I also removed the NCY roller base from under the contra spring, just in case the spring was binding up and not allowing the rear pulley to open up all the way.

Took her out for a spin and appears the RPM's were lower than last time at WOT.

I have found that the belt doesn't ride all the way to the top of my stock variator. I'm prob about 2mm from the very outer edge according to the wear marks from the belt. So if I can't reach the top of the stock (112mm I believe they are) how would it ever reach the top of a 115mm performance variator without ever going to a longer belt? Or trying the perfromance rear pulley from KNM, or the Motorio one on Ebay that's supposed to open up an additional 3mm?

[jmansracerocket]

I pmed u x lint I have the kidnme performance pulley sitting in a box.

[xlint89]

PM sent back to you.

[xlint89]

Funny story tonight.

So while I was riding the kart I noticed a cop car hovering around as I did laps.

Then I saw a second one pulling in the drive way. So I stopped for him as this isn't my first time being questioned about where I'm riding.

I get the same ol' Q's. What are you doing here, where'd you come from, etc....

As I'm answering those Q's, the other car pulls next to me too. I'm sandwiched between 2 black and whites.

Once they find out I'm legit, I start asking them if they're "new" and stuff since they don't know about me yet. (been stopped at least 3 times previously) Just setting the stage for light hearted joking.

Then they start asking Q's about the kart, how's the suspension, how fast etc...

It was then cop #2 asks what size engine? I tell him a 180". He replies back, "mine's got a 150"

WHAT????


Cop #2 has a Tomberlin 150......

He's the first guy in my area I've found to have another mini buggy. Naturally I tell him to give me a holler if he ever wants to modify his. It never hurts to have a cop as a friend. And one to go riding with is even better.

[jmansracerocket]

lmao that's awesome, I have no one around me or that I know of that has a buggy and everytime I take them out people love it because they never see them

[ckau]

Originally Posted by xlint89

Funny story tonight.:

A similar story...
On occasion we use the paved road out front for high speed and jet tuning, etc. I was blasting down the road when I pass a county sheriff going the other way. He does a U-turn, lights up and proceeds to engage in a "high-speed "pursuit chasing me back to the shop. He obviously expected to confront some irresponsible teenage trouble maker as he was clearly surprised,stunned and taken back when I removed my helmet to revel a older aged mature adult.
He chuckled, shook his head, " You know you ain't supposed to be out there doing that, Don't cha?. Every one present had a good laugh and the conversation switched to buggies. The confrontation ended with him asking if he could bring by his kid's Carter so we could get it running. The carter got fixed, the kids are happy, We still use the road, he looks the other way and gives a friendly toot on the horn every time he passes the house.
Yep!... Getting your local law enforcement involved makes for good politics, and a happy ending!
With your belt travel problem... draw some lines on your pulley faces with a felt tip marker, variator and clutch pulleys. this will revel exact path of belt travel. you may find the problem is in the clutch pulley not expanding enough to allow full travel. The shaft, spacers and spring get gummed up and stick. Using that ball bearing cup on the end of the spring reduces bind and allows for smoother transition but needs regular cleaning.

[xlint89]

That's almost the same story for sure.

No need to do the felt marker tip, you can clearly see where the belt stops in the pics.

[jmansracerocket]

hopefully the pulley I sent u fixes the problem xlint

[bear]

It's just starting to gain momentum around here, 3 of us with a combined total of 7 buggy's!!! Is that a epidemic?????