Newb to Yerf-dog kart

[Ryan937]

I recently bought a project kart, I think it's a Yerf-dog 30034. First Kart for me. I found when looking it over the front wheels wobbled and figured the spindles were shot. I've found the manual.

The spindles are 5/8" and showing some wear but most of the slop is in the wheel hub...

Here's my newb question:
Are there supposed to be bearings in the front wheels? What do I need to make this right?

[2SlickNick]

I would say "Yes" there should be bearings. check the other wheel. I had a manco and it took a 5/8 wheel bearing up front. Here is the link to the bearings I used. It was the top one. You can also get them at Tractor supply company.
http://www.*****************/bearings.htm

[Ryan937]

Thanks Slick. Both wheels are in exactly the same shape.

So what looks kind of like a worn out bushing in the wheel photo is more likely be the outer race of a bearing then?

Does each wheel take 1 or 2 bearings? Nothing related to front wheel bearing shown in the exploded view in the manual.

I take it I should be able to knock those out with a drift punch?

One more...any idea why one side of the ID of the wheel bore/bearing race would have threads? or is it just from riding on the threads of the spindle?

How much wear on the spindles is acceptable?

[Masteryota]

The inside 'threads' are from exactly that, riding on the threaded portion of the spindle bolt. I would say, after you clean up the spindle bolts, if there is ANY question of its strength from the wear of the bearings, then look to replace it. Yerf was known for using grade 5 bolts for the spindles, so they aren't that sturdy from the start. The bearing races should come out pretty easily with a hammer and punch/drift, and replacements are inexpensive, just be sure to specify you want the high speed 5/8" bearings, they are built substantially better than the cheap-o brands. I think I paid $4 each from a bearing store, and were rated at something like 25,000 RPM, don't know what that translates to in MPH, but it seemed ok to me.

Also, welcome to the forum, you will find LOADS of info on the Yerf's on here.

[Ryan937]

This is making more sense now.
I was thinking looking around that I have a 3003X but now I'm not sure. Mine has a 6.5HP Tec. motor but the TC is a Comet 20 P5. The manual I downloaded cross-references the TC as a Comet 30...I'm planning to disassemble/clean/lube the TC and figured I'd go ahead an replace the drive springs while I had it apart and maybe order a spare belt. Here's another pic...

I've got a new Predator 212 to go on it too...good stuff on here about that.

Is this a 30034?

[Ryan937]

Masteryota/Slick,

I found these at TSC...they have a snap ring
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...with-snap-ring

The flange type from Applied Industrial are $17 each!...she said common on lawn mowers and they sell a lot of them.

[2SlickNick]

Those are the ones I bought. You can remove snap ring if you have too.
I know this is also the same bearing with snap ring used at jack shaft.

[Masteryota]

I found these at TSC...they have a snap ring
http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...with-snap-ring

The flange type from Applied Industrial are $17 each!...she said common on lawn mowers and they sell a lot of them.

Wow, what a rip, I thought I paid too much. They are very common, and if you don't mind waiting, I'm sure you can find them cheaper than TSC. They probly cater to companies and contractors, where they can get away with that price, I found this with Fastenal, but I still buy my specialty bolts from them.

Your kart looks like a 3203, but its a bit iffy since the roll bars are removed. If you plan to use the 212cc predator, I think you will need a new torque converter, the 30 series is a great match to the 7hp, but if you plan to hop it up very much, it too will not handle the power output. I believe the limit is ~8hp for the 30 series.

[x-bird]

vxb.com or *************.com for bearings etc. both are straight shooters with good prices and quick to ship. As far as the model of the yerf goes, pretty much most differences came down to the frame structure and hp level (5 and 6.5) If you need a decent replacement seat, (cushions and cover section) lmk i have one sitting in the garage with a minor tear in the stitching where it slides over the back of the frame. yours for the shipping.

[Ryan937]

I picked up the bearings on the way home and they didn't fit. The bore size of the wheel is 1-1/8" which I found out after knocking out some weird flanged bushing ...one on each side of the wheel. One wheel had a piece welded to it to make it 1". The tires are good but I feel at least one wheel will need replaced. IThe tires are 15x6x6 and look pretty decent and are holding air. I'm interested in wheel or wheel tire recommendations.

I went ahead and inserted the original bushings and some temporary 5/8x 3/4 bushings to take up the slop. Since the shocks were cranked up max I moved the shocks to the highest setting and this made the wheels about plumb...prob need new shocks eventually but will hold off for now. With the slop out, the driver's side wheel was pointing to the left, passenger side was straight when the steering 'lever' 90 deg. (centered in my mind). I adjusted the tie rod until it was straight. The right tie rod is bent and the rod end that connects go the steering wheel column is split...planning to replace if I can find one.

[Ryan937]

Correction to my earlier post, it's a 6 HP tec "power sport". I've been using the 6202 manual.

Thanks for the seat offer x-bird. I have a bottom but may just make new ones.

I'm a pretty decent fabricator/welder...CWI actually so if I should be making something rather than buying give me some direction/inspiration. I was also a foreman millwright for about 5 years so I have some at least basic mechanical skills just not great with engines or vehicle concepts.. I don't want to spend a fortune on this as it's mostly for my 7yo daughter but am willing to put what it takes to make it safe and correct.

[Ryan937]

I read that the Comet 20 series is good for 8hp...can I simply get a 20 series drive clutch with a 1" bore? Or is it more practical /wiser to just get the 30?

BMI Karts is only an hour away, I may just make the trip over there once I get my ducks in row.

[Ryan937]

The 20 Series 1" Bore - Part #219560...with this work since the new motor has a 1" bore and my existing Comet 20 driven clutch or am I missing something?

[Ryan937]

I stopped by BMI and picked up two new wheel/tire combos with bearings, used but good condition especially for $15 each, new spindles and tie rods and installed everything. Now with everything installed, I had to lower the shocks a bit so they're not in too bad of shape.

I went ahead and picked up a throttle cable/spring kit too. I figured it was worth the $5. They agreed with you guys that I have a 30 comet...apparently that 20 stamped on the side doesn't mean it's a 20.

Also picked up a pretty decent full face dot motorcycle helmet for $25. All in all including a can of Comet lube and a couple of bearing ended up around $100 but I have piece of mind.
Next step is the back half swap motors and freshen up the TC...hopefully it goes a little better than the front.

I'll be looking for a how-to on the right way to align the front wheels...feel free to link me.

[x-bird]

your going to be limited alignment-wise to what you can do with the tie rod lengths. with the single a-arm/kingpin type spindle, there's not much else you can align but toe-in/out. one the first page or two of "my yerf upgrade" thread are some minor mods to quiet down some of the play and wear issues front and rear. after that, mine became a frankenbuggy that's still undergoing surgery. )))

[Ryan937]

I've looked through some of your improvements I can see myself heading in a similar direction eventually as I have time. I can tell just by moving it around the garage the clanging of components is going to be hard for me to live with. At the least I'll probably have to add some urethane bushings, do a little plating and maybe add a few strategically placed pieces of UHMW and neoprene bearing material here and there to quiet, dampen and smooth things out. My time is pretty limited this time of year so I hope to get it in safe operational condition for now through fall and make improvements over the winter.

This is my first cart and I'm kinda surprised at how cheap parts are...much cheaper than ATVs, sportbikes, cars and 4x4s. It's like significant upgrades are like 1/10 the cost which is kinda cool. I'm enjoying this little project kart much more than I expected.

[Ryan937]

I cleaned up and lubed the clutch and mounted the new Predator 212. The Predator's shaft was about 3/8" shorter than the Tec. 6.0 so a longer bolt for the driver was needed which I found at Home Depot. The Predator motor was already set up for the throttle cable so that was pretty easy. I spliced in the kill switch on the column too.

The existing seat was a couple of outdoor cushions so I made new ones. I used 3/8" CDX plywood for the bottom/back and found 2" cushion material and black vinyl by the yard at Hobby Lobby currently 30% off. I shaped the cushion material with my battery powered fillet knife, stretched the vinyl over the seats and used about a hundred staples with my air stapler around the back side. $22 for new seats and about 45 minutes.

Filled the motor with oil and gas and it fired up on the third pull. I ran it around a bit and during right turns the right wheel was hitting. I found the right A-arm was bent, probably from a collision with a tree or something and the brake was barely functioning. I also ended up pulling the throttle cable eyelet below the seat off twice so I ended up soldering it in addition to crimping it as hard as I could would vise grips. Will add a foot pedal stop to prevent this again and I'm a little concerned about the light metal linkage on the motor bending under a heavy foot.

I ended up ordering a few more parts...right A-arm, new wheel lock nuts (existing pretty used and not locking so well), a new belt as someone put on a sym. v-belt instead of the correct asymmetric one (Part 203591 should be right as my c/c on the clutch was 6-11/16" after reassembly and the driven is 7"), and a new brake band...I have the 4.2" drum...I hope the new band gives some decent stopping power because it's almost 0 at the moment. Also after riding awhile with myself and daughter it became apparent that the front shocks will need replaced so I ordered these 12" ones http://www.*************/Mechanical-A...80.html...they were a 1/3 less than the stock ones, hopefully they work. Found 2 nails in the rear tires which I plugged...not sure how they weren't leaking before.

All in all including all the new parts and cart price I'm into this for $480...a little more than I planned but I'm satisified. Hopefully I can get the old 6HP Tec Powersport running and sell it...any idea what it would be worth?

I've had so much fun I may have to build myself one now!