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| Other tech issues For all other technical issues. Think frame, suspension, steering, brakes, etc |
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#1
06-05-2012, 10:02 AM
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spiderbox chain tensioner ?
Do the yerfs have a bushing in a metal cup that goes against the underside of the tensioner bracket on the frame?
reason i ask, mine is a mix of carter/yerf and has the bushing and cup. one thing i noticed right away is that the way the cup flares out, it hits the upper frame rail. When installing it hung up a lot trying to get everything tight. I got rid of it a long time ago. If this is a stock yerf part, that cup banging away on that frame rail can't be a good thing if ya get my drift ... Also, tightened up the bolt that holds the tensioner to the rear of the engine (mine had a castle/cotter) had to shorten my chain a link to stop the engine from hitting the rear framerail. Think i'm going to actually ride today (day off) 
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#2
06-05-2012, 10:30 AM
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No the stock yerf didn't have the bushing and metal cup, just bolt and washer setup. I bought an aftermarket one for mine with the rubber bushing/washer or whatever it is.
The way mine is installed, I have the rubber on the top side under the bell to aid in chain stretch on hard acceleration. I guess it's supposed to take some of the stress of the chain. this is the one I have http://www.chineseatvonline.com/chai...s-p-12883.html
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T.J. Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
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#4
06-07-2012, 07:47 PM
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Whle your messin with the tensioner, take a close look at the mounting tab on the top of the swing arm. Under hard aceleration this tab can flex downwards causing erratic chain tension. I experienced stress cracks and metal fatigue where the tab was welded to the crossmember. beefing up the tab helped chain skip and eliminated chain adjustment problems and some of the knocks and pops . I would adjust the chain only to find it loose after a while . I attributed it to chain stretch at first but discovered the tab flexing downwards would give the tensioner enough slack to work loose.
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#5
06-07-2012, 08:11 PM
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with mine, just the tab wasn't flexing down, it was the whole tube... I had cracks on both sides. I did the fix just like Ckau posted, but it was a little to late, bearings started to spread and my axle got loose, just from not having that support at the bottom.
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T.J. Yerfdog Spiderbox, Uni Type air filter with 6" intake, 130 jet, Orange no-rev limit cdi, Red coil, iridium plug, 1500rpm clutch springs, 1500rpm contra spring, 13g sliders, 22" rears, 21" fronts, aftermarket reverse installed, and Trailtech Vapor.
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#6
06-07-2012, 09:25 PM
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FYI- I found after a few good bumps/taps to the rear tube it cracked from fatigue, the steel must not be of very good quailty to crack like it did.cBefore I changed engines I'd made a new plate for the tensioner too.
Ckau- that tensioner support looks awesome & well supported, your corner gussets are saving your rear tube from the stress cracking I had.
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#7
06-07-2012, 10:32 PM
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mine has the corner gussets like ckaus -- maybe a running production change added them? I have just the piece of angle iron to put over the tube/tensioner. been checking that tab on a regular basis. Of course, i haven't kept it in one piece long enough to put more than an hour or so of total ride time on it. Once i got a good par of jam nuts on it and centered the sprocket to the axle center, i wasn't having loosening issues any longer. the clanking/banging on certain bumps still has me puzzled. was louder than the stock, worn out 3203 rear swingarm.
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