I give up

[terrys]

Ok I cant make this stupid Yerf dog 6.5 tec run worth a crap . I had the carb rebuilt. Put it on and finaly got it started. It ran for a minute then shut off all at once.I tried to crank it back and it had locked up.. I messed with it for a while,took out spark plug and sprayed wd 40 in it to see if i could get it freed up. It came loose so I started it back up and noticed gas flowing out of the carb. took the bowl off and the flote was stuck. put it back together and started it up again. same thing flote stuck again. I have no idea why it locked up the first time. trying to decide if I should buy a new carb or a new motor? Could someone tell me what to get from harber fraight if I decide to go that route. Model number or something. i dont want to get the wronge one. Also what would i need to go with it? Anything special, I want to make sure if i buy it I have everything that i need to make it work. Any help would be great. I was hoping to have this thing running for my son by now but no such luck .
Thanks again
terry

[x-bird]

Hate to hear you're having problems.
Before tossing in the towel, check a couple things with the carb that are simple but can cause problems if not done correctly.

1. The bowl (cup) is very specific as to it's placement. there is an angled portion and across from that a dimple. The tallest portion of the bowl (dimple is at the "center of the tall area") is for the float to be able to pivot up into without binding. You have to make sure that the hinged portion of the float is 180 degrees opposite the tall flat with the dimple when you install the bowl.

2. The little thin wire clip that holds the float needle needs to go through the hangar on the float in a specific direction. check the rebuild manual to make sure it's going in the right direction. Off hand i can't tell you if the open end is supposed to point to the air filter side or the intake pipe side, but it does matter.

Either of those two items can hang the float up albeit in different locations. If it hangs "up", it will run til the bowl empties and the stuck float is preventing fuel from coming in so it will cut out. Stuck down and it'll overfill. I don't think you need to buy a carb. If you check the two items above and it still doesn't work, e-bay the engine and stick a harbor freight etc. clone in it. Just make sure you buy one with the correct shaft diameter--the keyed portion of the shaft length will likely be a little shorter on the clone, but that's a non-issue.

As far as the lock-up goes, no idea, but it may not be the internals, could be something jammed up in the flywheel area.

[terrys]

Thanks. Anybody have a link to what to get from harbor fraught and what will be involved in installing it.
Thanks

[xlint89]

This engine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/predato...nia-68120.html


Get this coupon to save $$$

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARBOR-FREIG...item4600a2f166


Only thing you need to do is add an extension on the ouput shaft. I think the HF shaft is about 3/8" shorter.

Everything else bolts right up.

[terrys]

Thanks so much. I didn't know that I could buy a coupon off of eBay. That's funny. Next question is what does the extension shaft look like? Where does it go and how does it attach. It shouldn't be a problem to make one once I know what I need. Is there a drawing or measurements somewhere I can go by?
Thanks again for everyone's help.

[satoys]

Don't buy the coupon ! I just hate scaming people who don't know how to search. They are free if you just search... here is an expired one, but they are new ones about every month. http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/ho...ale-99-hf.html
Do a Google on harbor freight predator coupon
Sign up for their email, you get monthly adds even better than ads in the store.

Right now they are $149 with 20% coupon, that is $119. I saw them on sale last month for $119. Parking lot sales are where they are usually $99.

VERY easy, unbolt old, bolt in new. The new predator (black) are even easier than the old Greyhound(blue) since they come with all the throttle connections.

Get this new throttle cable http://www.*************/item/Throttl...-36000750-7252 and just cut the bullet end off, leave the cable long.

Extending the shaft is just a longer bolt - it is a 5/16-24 x 2 1/2 at Lowes, HD. sku # 008236709827, Hillman # 880590. Your clutch will hang off the shaft, but get the bolt tight, it runs fine.

I fought the old Techumseh's for weeks (I had 4 to try to get running), bolted on the Predator, was running in 30 minutes. Now I spend my time having fun !

[SYCARMS]

The locking up of the engine was most likely due to too much fuel in the cylinder do to the flooding causing the engine to lock up since it cannot compress liquid. Repair the carb following X-birds directions and I think you will be fine. Smell your oil and I'll bet it smells like gas. You will want to drain the dilluted oil and replace before running the engine too much.

TOM

[x-bird]

nm --SAtoys treed me!

[terrys]

x-bird what did that mean?

[x-bird]

I was going to pass along the same info that SA posted ... didn't see his post at first so i deleted it. "treed" refers to getting beaten off the line (timing light tree) as in drag racing ... though if i'm getting treed by 2.5 hours, i'm really asleep at the wheel! lol

[satoys]

yeh, I missed that one.... hope being "treed" is good, you are one of my hero's x-bird !

one thing I forgot on the predator, the exhaust bolt pattern is just barley off so that headers don't fit. I took header I had and drilled out the mounting hole to a 1/2 hole on one side, fits now. I'll go take some pictures and post.

[terrys]

thanks everyone. I havent found a coupon except the one on ebay so the motor is 150. still trying to decide if I want to buy a carb or the hf motor. If i buy a carb where should i look? also will it need adjusted or will it come pre adjusted. I dont do well working on carbs. I have already payed someone to rebuild this one and it still dont work.
Thanks everyone for answering all of my questions.

[metalstudman1]

terrys-Your last post sums it up!!! The HF Predator engine is complete & ready to go!! (other than adding oil and fuel) you just need to go buy the "new" engine,that way you'll have a viable power plant from the get-go, you'll be able to learn about the engine as it ages and get the needed confidence to work on it . Carbs rarely just bolt right on without some type of tinkering,jet changing.

[satoys]

terrys - I want to save you money ! (sounds like a car ad)
Here is a 20% off coupon, they are in my Sunday paper every week in the coupon insert, in AARP magazine, in my power co-op magazine monthly, just about everywhere if you look hard enough.

This 20% will save you 30$

Most cashiers have one at the register as well, just ask nicely.

[satoys]

oh, and read the fine print in the 20% off, says coupon can not be sold... bet it is off ebay soon.

[terrys]

Thanks so much. Everyone has been so helpful and answered all of my questions that probably have been asked a houndred times. Thanks again fellows.

[xlint89]

Sorry, I see no problem with paying $3.30 to save $80. It cost me $107 out the door for my Predator engine with that coupon.

As for the extension, I actually made one to fit between the clutch and output shaft. I didn't like how little of the clutch was seated on the key without it. (you'll see what i mean if you get the engine)

I imagine you can cut part of the old shaft off the Tec motor and graft it to the new out put shaft of the predator, then buy a new longer hardened (grade 8) bolt. That's all there is to do.

I've read some guys have just bolted the clutch on, and haven't heard about any issues, so it's up to you....

I even used the stock throttle cable. Just cut off the ball on the end and fish it through the Predator linkage. Like it was made specifically for the Yerf.

I did fabricate a clamp to hold the throttle cable from kinking/bending/binding

And I did add another throttle return spring just to play it safe. The Kart is for my 8 yr old nephews and I don't want any throttle sticking going on at all. The one on the Predator is a bit flimsy, and I can see it start to get weak at some point.

Hope this helps.

[satoys]

xlint89 - no problem, you'r just trying to save some money.... I just did not want to give the ebay-er a penny, everything he was doing was unethical. (the coupon clearly states not to be sold, ebay prohibits selling manufactures coupons, etc). I'd pay the extra $16.50 (difference in the cost with the $99 coupon and the 149-20%-coupon cost), just to keep from giving the e-bayer a penny. I'm gonna make it my mission now to post a free one every time I find one ! but, enough of that...

I agree with you on the shaft, I did not feel good about hanging the clutch off, but after reading of lots of people doing it, and it working ok, I tried it. I've got 3 of these running now, no problems on any of them.

I went with the longer throttle cable since the stock ones barely fit, and one even pulled out while driving. I had one that was rusted inside and broke as well, so it was a good time to get new ones on, and the price was right. It also turned out it was better to run the cables in from the back, it seemed to pull the throttle open better. 100% agree with the extra spring, the one on the engine is weak.

[terrys]

Ok I think I decided on the H.F.motor. Thanks everyone for the help. anybody need a 6.5 tec motor complete with a pos carb?

[Azwild66]

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum. I picked up a spiderbox 3206 for free, or close too( I have to let my cousin borrow my RV for country thunder). Any way, can't get the thing started, it started to fire up and idle but I noticed an exhaust leak at where the manifold bolts to the head. Tightened it up, can't get it to fire up again. Checked for spark, good, fuel, good, cranking over strong. Nothing has changed( at least nothing I can see ). Don't know what's going on. I'm gonna check compression this weekend, but I do have a Honda 8hp engine that I pulled from a cement mixer, think it'll bolt up? Any info would be appreciated, thanks guys.

[T3beatz]

Azwild66, The exhaust leak you noticed was seen and not felt right? In that same area there is the cooling exhaust for the engine shrouds too.

Have you tried spraying starter fluid down the intake? Have you checked for any leaks around the intake manifold? When was the last time the carb was cleaned?

[metalstudman1]

Try what T3beatz asked and let us know.
Your mixer motor has gear reduction,probably doesn't have an electric start and only runs 3500-3700 rpm's- also you'll need to buy a comet style 30 series clutch & driven w/ jackshaft plate & belt if the crankshaft is 3/4"(#40 or#44 series if 1")- these items cost around $200+ just to make that engine move the buggy not counting the swingarm fabrication to mount the engine. All that work to have a crawl speed buggy!!!!!

[Azwild66]

Sprayed starter fluid, not even a sputter. Don't know when the last time the carb was cleaned, it's been sitting in my cousins garage for approximately 2 years. He bent the driverside spindle and stopped using it. Looks like he started to tear it apart for some reason so I had to reassemble alot around the engine. I cleaned out the fuel tank, new fuel lines & filter, vac lines, etc.

[T3beatz]

Clean the carb thoroughly!... if it doesn't want to start with starter fluid you may want to check the spark again.
How did you check it for spark the first time?
Also go over all the wires and make sure they are tight, you might have bumped something loose

[Azwild66]

Should I completely remove the carb and clean with some b-12 chemtool or do suggest something else. When I checked for spark, I pulled the plug wire and used a screwdriver against the frame while my wife cranked it, also pulled the plug itself and repeated. When I saw the exhaust leak I could see fuel spurting out.

[Azwild66]

Also, thank you for the info guys I really appreciate the guidance. I'll save that mixer motor as a replacement for my current mixer.

[T3beatz]

Was there oil mixed with that fuel? you may want to do a compression check... if you don't have a compression meter they can be bought at harbor freight for like 18 bucks.

If it's turning over too easy that can be a sign of little or no compression.

[SYCARMS]

What color is the spark? A yellow spark is really weak, white is weak, bluish white is good. Chemtool is for removing light surface varnish. Sometimes if soaked in it, it will break loose the heavy varnish collected in the tiny orafices. The best for soaking the carb overnight would be the Berriman chem dip. It comes in a 1 gallon can with a basket. Totally disassemble carb removing all gaskets and rubber then set in basket and soak for several hours, remove and run under water then blow off with air making sure to get all the orifices and passages. If it sat for even several months with ethanol blended fuel guarantee it will be clogged up especially if it sat several years. If it started and ran before ,and ran good ,I doubt it will have bad compression, but it would still be a good thing to check. I would look closely at the spark by pulling plug and connected to the coil lead ground the outer casing to the engine and have someone spin over the engine. You should have a bluish white spark. Also, don't know if your buggy has one but if it has a kill switch make sure it is not in kill mode. I am assuming that your exhaust leak was between the exhaust manifold and head, is this correct. If so and the spark is good, loosen that exhaust at the head and try. Could be a rat, mouse or dobber nest is plugging the exhaust especially if it sat several years.

[Azwild66]

Spark is blue. I rapped lightly on the casing of the carb, and it fired up... Took a little feathering of the throttle but it went. Gonna take the carb off and clean it all up, I suspect the float is stuck and possibly causing a flood, I removed the air cleaner box...again... And noticed fuel dripping out of the front of the carb, which also leads me to believe the float again. But tires are aired up, spindle is bent back to shape( temporarily, have heim joints on order and new spindles from bdx also on order).

[Azwild66]

I do have a compression tester, but I havn't done that yet. Carb issue kinda led me to believe a carb problem not compression. No oil mixed with the spray( at least not an excessive amount). Buggy fires up easier when I first add fuel to the tank, but it was leaking out and didn't know where( till recently ).

[GX150]

Check your oil for gas seepage. If the float was stuck gas may have been running into the cylinder and past the rings.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by GX150

Check your oil for gas seepage. If the float was stuck gas may have been running into the cylinder and past the rings.

Very important point, for if enough fuel leaked past and in the crankcase, it would not take long to wipe a cylinder, cam or valves.

[T3beatz]

Originally Posted by Azwild66

I do have a compression tester, but I havn't done that yet. Carb issue kinda led me to believe a carb problem not compression. No oil mixed with the spray( at least not an excessive amount). Buggy fires up easier when I first add fuel to the tank, but it was leaking out and didn't know where( till recently ).

cool, you got it running so compression probably is not your problem. Do as SYCARMS says and get that carb cleaned. Also, one other thing to add is check the electric choke and make sure it's working correctly.

[x45guy]

Originally Posted by terrys

Thanks so much. Everyone has been so helpful and answered all of my questions that probably have been asked a houndred times. Thanks again fellows.

I put HF motor on yerf dog. stock crank spacer was too long. used spacer that came with comet tav 2 plus a 1/4 inch collar i had to make pulleys line up.

I now have ordered locking collars to make it simpler.

For throttle cable i kept the yerf dog outside sheath and replaced inner cable with inner cable from Northern tool for 6.00 and put eyelet on end, crimped it and bolted up just like stock.

[Azwild66]

Cleaned up carb( completely disassembled), drained oil and refilled... Still no joy, it'll start for a few seconds and idle but it dies, if I hit the throttle it dies. How do I test the electric choke, more specifically, what is the testing procedure? Thanks all.

[Azwild66]

Also, neighbor had a set of Polaris rzr rims and tires just sitting around and asked me to take em... Think they'll work on this spiderbox? I know I'll need adapters for the front, havn't measured them yet(actually havn't brought them home yet), but probably adapters for the rear as well. Don't know if the 150cc will even roll them.

[T3beatz]

Originally Posted by Azwild66

Cleaned up carb( completely disassembled), drained oil and refilled... Still no joy, it'll start for a few seconds and idle but it dies, if I hit the throttle it dies. How do I test the electric choke, more specifically, what is the testing procedure? Thanks all.

To test the choke you just hook one side to the Pos. on a 12v bat and the other to the Neg. Measure how far the plunger is before and after the power is applied. I think it should extend about 4mm, the choke will get warm while doing this.

I doubt that it's your electric choke, the buggy would still start up and run with a bad one. It just wouldn't run right once the engine warms up.

Another recommendation I can give you is to replace all the old warn out components on the buggy Asap. like the CDI, Coil, spark plug. Just doing this adds more life to the buggy and helps it run a lot better. I just changed those 3 components out on my friends buggy and now his starts right up and runs like a champ. We put an orange cdi, orange coil, and ngk spark plug in it, Cost all of $30 bucks and it woke his buggy up.

I don't know if you've done it yet put Adjust the valves... they should be .003-.005ths, if you don't know how to do it go on youtube tons of videos there.

[Azwild66]

Where did you order the parts from? I looked on buggy depot and found them but $70 vs. $30, I'll take the $40 savings these days if I can.

[T3beatz]

1 word... Ebay...