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#104
11-23-2011, 05:15 PM
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hi kids,
my pc barfed up it's power supply the other night. r&r'd it just now and back in biz. havent touched the ydog; master links are still in the envelope. maybe tomorrow. happy thanksgiving you guys 
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#107
11-26-2011, 03:43 PM
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how many guys can see the only thing they could find to solve a problem is a hunk of blown up bearing?
i used the hub/inner race of one of the jshaft bearings as a sprocket hub spacer. it's the only thing i could find of the correct size. took ol' boris out for a drive. cruised around the yard a while then got brave and went out on the road. made 3900 rpm on level ground. new shocks are delightful. old clanking still undelightful, however. got braver and cut into a piece of land i won't mention but is all raw and real steep hills. had me some fun, went down to the bottom of the gnarliest hill around here. 10 feet up the throttle cable pulled outta the retainer on the carb. reached back and used my hand. the bouncing caused me to turn the choke on about every 15 seconds getting back up the hill, stalling it out. took me 10 minutes to sputter my way up. we've learned some things: carry a damn screwdriver. turf saver tires suck in uphill mud. my belt's a little too loose. i'm wearing some deercrap so the front fenders need to go on. don't test-touch the cvt after you realize the belt's too loose bc it's HOT!!! the 8 tooth sprocket did indeed help out quite a bit; i'm satisfied with the gearing now. the ydog is a bit too small for me and i'm not gonna spend any more money on it. but i will install the suspension bushings and whatever else i already bought first and enjoy it some then i believe i'll put it up for sale and perhaps start building the sandrail up as a reverse trike with license plates. so...for sale!
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#108
11-26-2011, 05:57 PM
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" the ydog is a bit too small for me and i'm not gonna spend any more money on it."
Wise decision grasshoppa! If you're interested, maybe we can swing a deal with the Kawasaki engine? Trim the weight of the VW stuff off front and rear and that frame of yours would make a nice, light woods buggy. The red front frame piece on it retails for $350 new btw. I have the head gaskets and seal for the kawa coming next week, going to set it up on a test stand and get it running so I can maybe sell it prior to christmas ... Next spring-summer (when i'm "flush" $s) I'd like to have 2 yerfs, one near stock for the 'lil one and one for the wife and i that'll be powered by my brothers 9hp subie and will have been treated to a widening and pedal extension. I'm actually liking a lot about the 3202/03 platform as a base for an adult size buggy. Figured out my tubing cuts and runs to make it happen pretty easily without piling on a ton of weight last night.
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#109
11-26-2011, 08:56 PM
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sure, if you take monopoly money!
realistically, i won't build squat and will sell the rail tubeframe, etc when someone wants it. if i do build it, it'll get a spare 600 yamaha. there's a fella in VA selling a subie 6.5 kart motor for 40 bucks right now on CL, btw. that's silly cheap. i wasn't pleased to realize my HF clone's carb was dumping fuel outta the bowl vent after i opened the petcock today. lost at least a quart. after only an hour's total run time and letting it use up all the fuel in the bowl to shut down every time i'm less impressed w/ chinamotor quality. a rap on the bowl unstuck the needle but that's kinda irritating this soon from new. on the flip side, the engine keeps running at ridiculous tilt angles (i was almost vertical today; maybe 85 degrees up) and stays very cool even after several minutes at WOT/load.
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#110
11-27-2011, 04:23 PM
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today we ground some of the old bearing race/sprocket spacer off to fix cvt pulley misalignment i had courtesy of that spacer being too thick.
cvt runs much cooler now, even after it slipping pretty hard getting to the top of the mondo hill; still need to add a bit of tension. had it wide open 5 minutes each way to my super hilly test area of doom. saw 4140 rpm; that's about as fast as i want to go in this thing though it behaved quite well at "speed". also rigged an extra throttle return spring as the stocker let it hang up a little above idle. was all happy about finding a longer (for the new spring) correct-threaded throttle cable retainer screw in my holley parts only to snap it off running it in because apparently it wasn't right despite my (apparently no longer) calibrated eyeball. grrr. pulled the throttle plate and stole the unused one. worked the suspension hard enough for the first time to dent in the gas tank when it compressed; still need to move that up top. today we brought the tool kit along but, naturally, didnt need it. ya only need it whens ya donts gots it. saw lots of nice deer and a fox, nothing broke, didn't get stuck, didn't get hurt. 
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#112
11-29-2011, 06:05 PM
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it's a chinese motor.
what could go wrong?? 
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#114
11-29-2011, 08:04 PM
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if it wasnt for bad luck i'd have none at all
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#115
12-03-2011, 04:20 PM
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today boris got a dashboard made from a dead vcr case with a cereal-box prize digital watch and the tach mounted w/ the Vulcan's primary contribution to human society, velcro.
it's much less obtrusive in life than in the pics. i used a spade connector for the tach wire in case of outside storage to make it removeable. i'll cut up a soda bottle to make a mud shield. also ziptied on an old digital compass i had around so's i can find my way home. sadly, the tach doesn't like, presumably, the added resistance from the connector and/or the extra wire and it's reading ~1000 rpm low up top. i'll try soldering the connections and see if it helps.
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#116
12-26-2011, 07:06 PM
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santa was kind this year thanks to my sweetie.
we have some new 22" knobbies mounted on 4x110's steels (oem spiderbox stock), alloy hub adapters for said wheels, a carb inlet adapter to attach ze Ram Air (4), a 7" driven pulley, a wireless digital bike speedo/computer, some 10" alloys from a yamaha w/ nice 22" knobbies on them for the kawi quad front end, a spare new rear axle, and an led bicycle headlite for evening use. so, i'm keepin the cart awhile!  hope yous fellers had a merry xmassikawanzativus.
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#118
12-27-2011, 04:46 PM
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in zis case ze RA4 refers to i'm gonna use four q-jets.
do you think that'll be enough flow?? pm repliedified
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#119
12-27-2011, 04:48 PM
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ps: truman spins his cast-rod 400's 8 grand through the lights!
 :ee k:
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#120
12-27-2011, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Took it off, removed the extra wire and connected it to the plug wire holding the tach in hand, perfect again. Ended up just saying my son doesn't need a tach on the Yerf. One more thing to distract him from having his eyes on the trail. With the electric start motor it's governed anyway so not worrying about him doing any ridiculous RPM's.
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#121
12-27-2011, 07:16 PM
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ya get what ya pay for...it'll work fine on my 2 stroke minichop if soldering and ditching the spades doesnt help, but i think it will
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#122
12-28-2011, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
I've got the same tach coming my way, maybe a heavier gauge wire might do the trick? I'll have to do some experimenting.
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#123
12-28-2011, 07:33 AM
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I tried heavier gauge wire on mine, no change
Think it is just somehow calibrated for the resistance of the included wire and hates anything else Go ahead and try it yourself though, maybe it was just mine being too picky 
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#124
12-28-2011, 01:24 PM
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jim, he had his first rod failure only a few years ago.
it's insane; cast rods ain't sposed to survive such horrors. i'm close with chuck roberts who co-wrote the "gto resto guide" years back. he ran the machine shop i used for all the speedshop engine builds over the years...i used to spin my 455's up well past 6 grand but nowhere near 8k. i only spun one rod bearing in all that time myself and i know it was past 7k when it went because my '73's factory tach was real slow and it said 6500 when it went "SCREEEEEECH". chuck swears it's all in the bearing crush. anyway, i used heavier wire to extend my tach from the get-go...will report on any positive change.
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#125
12-28-2011, 05:31 PM
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RE; the tach. I recall reading someone's yerf website with information about mounting a Tiny tach ... they ordered one with an extra-length wire. I think it must have a specific resistance value per foot wire type that has to be changed based on the length. Likely the same as the resistor wires in the ignition systems of cars from the 60s-70s. I may call tiny tach and find out if they can supply some.
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#127
12-28-2011, 07:34 PM
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jim, i remember seeing the same post about a tach w/ a long wire.
joe, i'm sure the name brand is > than my 12 dorrar ebay speciar; as always in life, you get what you pay for
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#128
12-29-2011, 08:22 AM
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honestly, for the little bit of circuitry there is to these, i doubt there's much difference at all but price. I have tiny tachs on a couple of my deck mowers, never looked at the end of the wire to see if its glass fiber wrapped or has a specific type of core beyond plain copper wire. I'm sure they do.
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#129
12-29-2011, 12:44 PM
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i'd imagine the better ones, like the Microns for example, have stronger op-amps on the inductive signal input side and probably better noise filtering
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#130
01-17-2012, 04:08 PM
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the new swag and i finally dragged the quad front end inside after sitting out for many years; the track is surprisingly close to the ydog spec.
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#131
01-17-2012, 04:10 PM
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here's a preview of what's to happen.
i should be able to drive up a pickup truck afterwards 
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#132
01-17-2012, 05:09 PM
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One up, one down .....
I really like those new front tires. That's the tread I'll upgrade mine to when i wear the ones i have out. I take it you're going to keep the quad center frame section? if you do you're going to want to get it more forward to get some tire clearance. Sure will save a lot of improvising mounting points.
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#133
01-17-2012, 05:41 PM
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i went for the fronts on ebay bc i liked the tread as well.
i was thinking it'd work well with the big camber shift of the oem setup plus they're on 6 inch alloys and really really light. at 31 bucks for the pair i was happy to gamble and use only the wheels if the tires sucked. i guess i'll mount the other fresh turfsaver tires on the wide wheels the quad's wearing now for alternate/road use. the plan is to split the atv front end down the middle and widen it to where the arm pivots are equidistant to my rack outputs. i'm torn on that though as i wanna be able to get between trees and such...wider bad for that but good for everything else..... eventually it'll use the hydraulic discs up front but they'll get removed for now; after years of being open i'm sure the calis need a rebuild. the yamaha wheels appear to be 4+2 so i can play with net track width a little by reversing them. i'm surprised at the height difference 'tween the rear oem 20's and the new 22's. my tape wasnt handy so i didnt measure but one of the two sidewalls ain't telling the truth. for 50 clams/per the rears from bmi were a nice deal; the rubber's soft and fresh as new; i couldnt find decent tires alone that cheap. i feel confident my prior lack of offroad hookage will be cured. re: the front end use: kawi did a proper engineering job on it. through it's entire range of travel without shocks installed (idk how much travel but it's very plentyish) there's almost no bumpsteer or camber change. everything is quite beefy and it's quiet and tight. it'll be an easy adaptation; i'll be adding only a little wheelbase for tire clearance because plan to cut the front frame corners off and plate in what's left.
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#134
01-17-2012, 07:31 PM
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New meat at $31 for the pair on alloy rims??? Nice!
As far as front width goes, I'm way out there at 53" but i get through the trees better than before because of how tight i can cut it. Going that wide pretty much eliminated any roll over issues, with the exception of something drastic like sliding sideways into a rut at 20 or more. I think your idea of splitting it may be the one you want, you'll gain some track width but keep the fabrication down to just frame attachment and steering. Getting the atv arms on the shark has been pretty difficult even with the mount tabs welded to angle iron stock. The uppers are kind of welded to thin air and the shock mounts need a hot air balloon to attach to.
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#135
01-17-2012, 10:09 PM
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I'm impressed with your improvements/mod's. This is a great go kart/buggy, very plentiful, tremendous leg room- fast (30+mph) with a descent ride for the money. I've been hunting for this video for a while since I saw jetasen74, speedshopmike & x-bird's builds on this particular buggy & so anyone with this Yerfdog model could visually understand the chassis & what occurs over slightly rough terrain. Pay close attention @ 15 seconds!!Watch the floor pan @ the seat area- Remember this is a kid- maybe 90-110 lbs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NQW7...eature=related Last edited by metalstudman1; 01-17-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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#136
01-18-2012, 01:31 PM
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i saw that vid too....frame flex isnt necessarily a bad thing.
i wouldn't want my mustang doing that but it's reasonable for this type of light duty play vehicle. if it didn't flex it'd just crack everywhere instead.
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#138
01-18-2012, 03:07 PM
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I felt the flexing & twisting on our's, just couldn't see it or pin-point it till I saw this video by accident!!! Flex is important-to a point, these karts/buggies have smaller tubing than most. That vid was just for informations sake- when making modifications you may be improving this condition or adding to it!!
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#139
01-18-2012, 03:19 PM
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i'm planning on adding a longitudinal rail to each side and that's pretty much it.
if/when it gets the 400cc honda twin it'll need to be very significantly beefed up
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#140
01-18-2012, 03:41 PM
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When i first got mine, i came across that same one and saw that part of it. (I must have watched a couple hundred yerf & go kart videos the first week I got it.) The frame definitely does flex in the video, but the front and rear suspension movement along with the cart's shadow dropping into the little gulley makes it look a lot worse than it actually is. When i was considering the kawasaki, my plan was to mount it to a full length rectangular box made of my 2x2 tubing and weld the entire yerf sans rear on top of that. I know i flex the living bejeepers out of mine, since i widened it, i was getting it to lift the inside rear wheel (jacking) while doing donuts. The rear frame piece i cut out and used in my daughter's had a nice curve upwards on the right side.
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#141
01-18-2012, 03:49 PM
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funny, i did the same video/info hunt when i got mine.
OCD + funemployment is neato
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#142
03-15-2012, 10:30 PM
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Spring is springing early in these parts so ima try to get all the new bits mounted up in the next week, less the kawi front end stuff.
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#143
04-22-2012, 10:58 PM
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hi kids.
long time no see. ive done nothing to the Ydog but mount up the 7" driven and Slime the leaky back tire. but, ive managed to put nearly 4 hours on the cart total. the latest couple were on relatively long runs to retrieve a buncha tadpoles from an unfortunate location before they expired - each run used a full tank of gas round trip. anyone want some tadpoles to raise? i'm quite overstocked now. anyway, nothing fell off the cart and it got where it needed to go, clanking it's ass off but without troubles. i did get it stuck in mud; next mod will be hanging those new rear tires and chicken wiring a crap deflector/windshield; prickerbushe in your face at 30 aint fun. out on my very very tight trail it was surprisingly nimble. i'm audi 5000 till next time i have something worthwhile accomplished. keep yer faces outta the mud.
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#144
04-23-2012, 06:17 AM
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Welcome back,
Your dreams were your ticket out. Welcome back, To that same old place that you laughed about. Well the names have all changed since you hung around, But those dreams have remained and they're turned around. Who'd have thought they'd lead ya (Who'd have thought they'd lead ya) Here where we need ya (Here where we need ya) Yeah we tease him a lot cause we've hot him on the spot, welcome back, Welcome back, welcome back, welcome back.  source: http://www.lyricsondemand.com/tvthem...terlyrics.html
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