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Electrical Tech General Tech for Electrical issues not related to specific engines (Lights etc)

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Old 12-15-2015, 11:40 AM
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Default Which LED headlamp did you use to replace the OE Incandescent lamps?

Question:
Which LED headlamp did you use to replace the OE Incandescent lamps?

Background to why I am asking:
My boy was driving and I was passenger 2 weeks ago Saturday mid-day, make a long story short he had too much speed going into a left turn 180 degree and the go kart rolled.

Prior with his much lighter brother in passenger seat he was "drifting" that corner ....

We are all ok, 5-point harness were properly snugged and both us wearing full moto helmets. The cart rolled 270 degrees total, my direction, it stopped on his side down. I made sure he was "ok" verbally, turned off the engine, since I was hanging above him he got out first, then me second.
Checked him again, take off helmet, very relieved.

I've told everyone who rides in the go kart "always hold onto the steering wheel if driving and the passenger t-bar, if the kart rolls over KEEP your arms on them". As it rolled over, in slow motion mind you, those words were in my mind also and both of us did that, fortunately no broken bones.

I need to replace all 4 headlights, suggestions on where to buy appreciated.

side view:


view of front headlamps:


[edit]
I've removed them so we can drive the cart again till replacements come
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Old 12-15-2015, 11:42 AM
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Looking I've found these that look nearly identical:
http://www.gopowersports.com/headlight-6-000-009-hh/ . http://www.gopowersports.com/head-light-with-hi-lo-6-000-104/
Quote:
Hammerhead single beam headlight, plastic grate over lens has single pigtail.$19.95
Quote:
Head Light with Hi-Lo $24.95
.

$90 for 4 new ones ....

or I see some LED ones, like these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKQ69BK
Quote:
LotFancy® 2X 27W Round Spot Beam LED Work Light Lamp Off Road High Power ATV Jeep Tractor 30 Degree Light (2X Spot Beam 27W Round)
List Price: $60.00
Price: $25.99
Sale: $19.90


I'm thinking LED, longer life, filament does not break due to bumps, etc.
What have you guys done?
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Old 12-15-2015, 01:57 PM
wildbob wildbob is offline
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I bought these ones:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00
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Taida 4V head with 23/22mm valves, forged 4V piston,Taida 62mm jug,forged Taida 8200 KDU stroker crank, Koso high-flow oil pump, Taida case half w/ oil cooler ports, Setrab oil cooler,TrailTec Vapor, Mikuni VM26-606, aluminum 30mm intake, Uni filter, aluminum stack, Hammerhead racing exhaust, MotoRio adjustable CDI/HO Coil, Iridium plug, Full Dr Pulley CVT kit w/ 16g sliders, JD's Mikuni slide kit

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Last edited by wildbob; 12-16-2015 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 12-15-2015, 08:40 PM
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As far as when you're rolling the proper technique is actually cross your arms around your chest. This way if the steering wheel jerks back and forth you don't break your wrists/fingers. I made this mistake when I was driving a UTV two years ago and the steering wheel really messed up my hands... Couldn't drive the rest of the day and let me tell you, my hands hurt like hell... Nothing broken/sprained but very very sore (and I was only doing 10mph tops). You can always get some arm straps to prevent this kind of thing from ever happening.

Glad to hear everybody is OK!

I would suggest getting some cheap incandescent lights and swapping in some LED chips and a small block of aluminum to act as a heatsink. Those things are SUPER bright (even without a lens). Additionally you could take a small aluminum bar and make a light bar with those chips.

As far as buying premade goes I would dig around on eBay... For the most part LED's are LED's and as long as you buy from a highly rated US seller you'll be fine
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Old 12-16-2015, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildbob View Post
Those are perfect for my upper front lights, the lower had yellow running lights and a normal headlamp light, these.


I like that 2-step function, Is anyone aware LED lights that also offer that?


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFauxFox View Post
As far as when you're rolling the proper technique is actually cross your arms around your chest. This way if the steering wheel jerks back and forth you don't break your wrists/fingers. I made this mistake when I was driving a UTV two years ago and the steering wheel really messed up my hands... Couldn't drive the rest of the day and let me tell you, my hands hurt like hell... Nothing broken/sprained but very very sore (and I was only doing 10mph tops). You can always get some arm straps to prevent this kind of thing from ever happening.

Glad to hear everybody is OK!

I would suggest getting some cheap incandescent lights and swapping in some LED chips and a small block of aluminum to act as a heatsink. Those things are SUPER bright (even without a lens). Additionally you could take a small aluminum bar and make a light bar with those chips.

As far as buying premade goes I would dig around on eBay... For the most part LED's are LED's and as long as you buy from a highly rated US seller you'll be fine
Honestly as the go kart was rolling over I could hear in my brain my speech to my boy "hold onto the T-bar" and I did exactly that! It happened so fast, yet felt like slooowww moootion while it happened. A friend told me her go kart rolled and her boy had compound broken arm because he did not keep them inside the roll cage zone. Did not know about the cross arms over chest technique, makes me wonder is that reality when it's rolling already?

I've do so many DIY projects, simply my whole basement and whole home theater.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...in-screen.html

However, in this case stay away from DIY LED lights and get the premade ones, amazon or ebay.
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Old 12-16-2015, 10:38 AM
wildbob wildbob is offline
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The cree lights I bought survived a rollover too, I changed it so the high beam setting became a cabin light.
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Taida 4V head with 23/22mm valves, forged 4V piston,Taida 62mm jug,forged Taida 8200 KDU stroker crank, Koso high-flow oil pump, Taida case half w/ oil cooler ports, Setrab oil cooler,TrailTec Vapor, Mikuni VM26-606, aluminum 30mm intake, Uni filter, aluminum stack, Hammerhead racing exhaust, MotoRio adjustable CDI/HO Coil, Iridium plug, Full Dr Pulley CVT kit w/ 16g sliders, JD's Mikuni slide kit

2014 Kandi 90B
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Old 12-16-2015, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildbob View Post
The cree lights I bought survived a rollover too, I changed it so the high beam setting became a cabin light.
Thx, I just placed my order via Amazon for the same ones, free shipping so expected Dec. 22, 2015 - Dec. 28, 2015.
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Old 12-16-2015, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post
Those are perfect for my upper front lights, the lower had yellow running lights and a normal headlamp light, these.


I like that 2-step function, Is anyone aware LED lights that also offer that?




Honestly as the go kart was rolling over I could hear in my brain my speech to my boy "hold onto the T-bar" and I did exactly that! It happened so fast, yet felt like slooowww moootion while it happened. A friend told me her go kart rolled and her boy had compound broken arm because he did not keep them inside the roll cage zone. Did not know about the cross arms over chest technique, makes me wonder is that reality when it's rolling already?

I've do so many DIY projects, simply my whole basement and whole home theater.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-ded...in-screen.html

However, in this case stay away from DIY LED lights and get the premade ones, amazon or ebay.

Amazing looking house/property there! Can I move in

I prefer to DIY stuff obviously do what you want
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  #9  
Old 12-24-2015, 12:39 PM
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Help me elect tech guys, I'm frustrated

I got my (4) LED lamps last night, so this morning I went about cutting the locking connectors from the old lights and attaching them to the new LED lights.

Also the hardware just did not fit right, the buggy long bolt that attached to the frame were m8 1.25 thd, just too big dia for the new brackets so I got m7 bolts/lock nuts instead (a Christmas eve home depot run)
My kitchen table:


Now, I decided to do just 1, get it working, then the others.
Upon putting it on the buggy and plug together nothing lit up.
I suspected my connection, so did a ohm continuity check, and to my surprise looked like a open circuit, infinite ohms.
I then checked another LED light directly from it's bare connectors and it also appeared as open circuit. I then thought that possible LED cannot be checked via ohm meter, so I made a quick jumper and put it onto my tractor 12v battery, boy that was bright! So, LED are good.

I then re-did the locking connector and upon plug in it did not work.
Now, I feel dumb as a wet dog...

Checked the output voltage at the buggy connector side, 14.96 v.
Plugged in the old broken light, they work fine!

What am I missing?
Why are the LED lights being lit by a simple 12 connection to the tractor battery, yet not when into the buggy circuit?
The buggy lights are 12v 25w rated, I took the bulb out that's what it says on it.
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:14 PM
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Hmm.. I just cut the connectors off the old lights and spliced the new ones on. The only real change I did was wire "high beams" to be a red LED strip as a cabin night light. Mounting wise I bought generic mounts off of Amazon. Is your light switch in high beam mode or some other setting where it might not send voltage down the normal way?
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Taida 4V head with 23/22mm valves, forged 4V piston,Taida 62mm jug,forged Taida 8200 KDU stroker crank, Koso high-flow oil pump, Taida case half w/ oil cooler ports, Setrab oil cooler,TrailTec Vapor, Mikuni VM26-606, aluminum 30mm intake, Uni filter, aluminum stack, Hammerhead racing exhaust, MotoRio adjustable CDI/HO Coil, Iridium plug, Full Dr Pulley CVT kit w/ 16g sliders, JD's Mikuni slide kit

2014 Kandi 90B

Last edited by wildbob; 12-24-2015 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:53 PM
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you may have the polarity crossed up. in the US standard color coding dictated red is positive and black is ground. WhereasIn some places, particularly china color coding doesn't seem to apply. I've seen ground wires black, red, yellow, purple. It doesn't seem to matter to them. It has had the best of us scratching our heads over a simple project. You have to trace the wires back to insure correct polarity.
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Old 12-25-2015, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ckau View Post
you may have the polarity crossed up. in the US standard color coding dictated red is positive and black is ground. WhereasIn some places, particularly china color coding doesn't seem to apply. I've seen ground wires black, red, yellow, purple. It doesn't seem to matter to them. It has had the best of us scratching our heads over a simple project. You have to trace the wires back to insure correct polarity.
Thx for this, it's the only thing I did not think of, I'll check it tomorrow.


Just for "fun" I used calculator and the circuit should be delivering around 1.7 to 2 amps of current to the LED lights, 12v ; 2.1 Amp by design/battery and 14.96v ; 1.7 amps while running off the engine.
.
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Last edited by mtbdudex; 12-26-2015 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 12-26-2015, 04:02 PM
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Lights!! Thanks again ckau

Yes it was the polarity, my bad at assuming red = red = +, and then just connecting the other wire , green to black.
.

These are definitely a whiter light, and seem brighter also.


Mounting needed some extra hardware, but i managed, used some rubber washers and tie strap to keep vibrations down


Now, the front lights are dual bulb, so I have to decide how to wire the single LED for them.
.
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