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No torque??
I have a Kandi GKM150cc buggy, and when I got it, it had the wrong belt, it was too long, and flapped everywhere, knocking around the inside of the case. Obviously, it ran like doodoo, despite the engine running like a champ. I ordered the right Gates PL belt (742-20-30) and just put it on, and replaced the variator while I was in there, and put new weights in it. (three 8g weights and three 10g weights)
This sucker is still stupid slow off the line. It maintains good RPM when going uphill, losing very little speed, but all the videos I see of these things, they're breaking traction in grass, and cuttin' donuts from a stand-still. I put my 14 year old daughter in there (who weighs maybe 85lbs) and she couldn't get it to break loose at all, even in gravel. Air cleaner is new, carb is spotless, gas is ethanol free 89 octane, plug is new. Am I missing something? I don't want to change the rear sprocket, because I don't want to kill the top end. Is this just the nature of the beast? Any thoughts? |
#2
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What sprocket does it have? How tall are the tires? Have the valves been adjusted?
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#3
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Quote:
No idea what sprocket, still has factory tires, and valves are set. Here's a picture, if that helps any. |
#4
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that looks like a fairly new or almost new buggy. If it is I doubt somethings wrong, the 150s don't have a ton of power, and I believe the buggy you have is kinda on the heavy side. what is your current top speed?
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. Last edited by jmansracerocket; 10-22-2015 at 07:55 PM. |
#5
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Might want to run it on stands with the cvt cover off to see if something isn't right under there. sounds like the variator is not opening up letting the belt drop down into the low range -- or vice versa with the clutch
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#6
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It's a 2013 model, and I did rev it in neutral without the cover, the variator fully closes, and clutch is opening too. Would putting in some 1k clutch springs benefit anything? Also, top speed is somewhere in the low 30mph range, judging by the seat-of-my-pants-ometer.
Last edited by PHenninger; 10-23-2015 at 07:35 AM. |
#7
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I have the same Buggy (Black). I did the mods in my sig below. I weight 200lbs and I can say I can easily do a dounut in gravel from a stand still. Check the spark plug gap. I can say the coil was a big difference. I have not re-jetted yet.
my honest opinion, is check the intake manifold after the carb, you will be surprised
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#8
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Also, if you haven't do yet! Get engine oil and gear oil changed!!! I used Lucus, and the shipping stuff that came out is gross.
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#9
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Quote:
Engine oil was changed already, I didn't know there WAS any gear oil in this thing. Last edited by PHenninger; 10-23-2015 at 12:46 PM. |
#10
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check all my posts and it will explain my mods.
Yes the gear oil needs to be changed also...if you want to call it gear oil Check the intake manifold "curve" first before you mess with the carb.
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#11
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No muffler will effect low end torque.
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#12
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It was lacking torque before the muffler broke off, and being that the majority of the header pipe is still there, backpressure is unaffected.
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#13
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Check intake, I stuck my finger inside of it, and was shocked. Alittle dremel work and the topend difference was huge.
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#14
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Will do. I think I found the "orange" coil you mentioned on FleaBay. I hate that there are no local shops selling this stuff.
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#15
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Quote:
I noticed the most with the manifold fix and intake. Sliders were a big help also
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#16
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news?
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#17
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Replaced the coil, my intake tube wasn't restricted at all, and still no difference. Gonna change to 1k clutch springs next, just haven't picked up a 1.5" socket yet.
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#18
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Yeah, I'd definitely take a look at the CVT. These buggy's stock are no rocket ships, but mine would do doughnuts stock, and I'm tipping 230lbs..
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2013 Trailmaster XRX 150 Type 86 stroker Taida 4V head with 23/22mm valves, forged 4V piston,Taida 62mm jug,forged Taida 8200 KDU stroker crank, Koso high-flow oil pump, Taida case half w/ oil cooler ports, Setrab oil cooler,TrailTec Vapor, Mikuni VM26-606, aluminum 30mm intake, Uni filter, aluminum stack, Hammerhead racing exhaust, MotoRio adjustable CDI/HO Coil, Iridium plug, Full Dr Pulley CVT kit w/ 16g sliders, JD's Mikuni slide kit 2014 Kandi 90B |
#19
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Clutch nut should be a 39mm.
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#20
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You said you replaced the variator. Did you torque the nut down? If it is not tight enough, the variator can slip on the shaft.
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#21
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Replaced clutch springs, not any snappier. I did re-torque everything. I'm getting to the point where I'm considering flipping the axle and putting my Warrior 350 engine on it.
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#22
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its like wildbob said there not rocket ships, its only a 150cc. If your looking for more power you can do a top end kit which will wake it up.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#23
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That would be cool but I would check to see what sprocket it has first. If I remember correctly you want at least a 39 on the axle.
It won't be as fast as a 350 warrior motor, but I have seen a gear change increase low end without effecting top end. And no muffler will hurt low end, even if all the pipe is still there. Last edited by liduno; 10-31-2015 at 01:54 PM. |
#24
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Count the number of teeth on the drive and driven sprockets please.
And definitely get a muffler on that thing. You're not going to get good performance from an open header.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
#25
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It has a muffler on it now, I'll try to get out there tomorrow to count teeth.
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#26
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I completely forgot to count the sprocket teeth, but I went out and cleaned up the clutch (it was full of rubber dust from having the wrong belt on it when I got it) and it made a very noticeable difference in takeoff. I then welded a lawnmower muffler on it (the factory one was giving me constant issues) and the sucker runs like a champ now.
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#27
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Nice.
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#28
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...and someone offered me $750 for it, so now it's gone.
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#29
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I'm the same way. BUT I do regret it every time I sell a buggy..lol
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#30
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you said it was new...750 seems cheap
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KD-150GKM-2 11g sliders, Iridium NGK, Orange coil, UNI oiled filter, smoother intake manifold, drilled muffler |
#31
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It's a 2013 model, not what I'd call "new." It was really clean and in great shape. I had less than $400 into it, so it was almost 100% profit.
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