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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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White Smoke?
I have white smoke coming out of my exhaust. Its not just the white smoke from a cold day, but it is pretty intense. Anybody have any idea whats wrong?
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Sheckells MAV#29 |
#2
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Is it there at all times? Even when fully warmed up?
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#3
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I was thinking that it could be deposits in the engine from sitting for a long time. (it was sitting for about 2 years in a barn). And i havent gotten it to stay on long enough to warm it up fully. Its also been raining for about the last 4 days.
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Sheckells MAV#29 |
#4
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wat buggymaster said if its not warmed up it could start to puff up some smoke
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MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#5
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Usually, condensation will cause that until it gets dried out. I don't think I would worry about it just yet.
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#6
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Could it be oil burning?
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#7
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Oil is usually a darker kind of smoke.
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#8
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I thought it burned white.
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#9
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only god knows
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MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#10
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Antifreeze typically burns white. Oil can sometimes too but it depends on what it looks like really. Super white is coolant.
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#11
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orrrrrr you could have a blown head gasket....:O
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CARTER 150 TALON DLX REDNECK INTAKE AND THATS ALL!!! SUGGEST MODS!! |
#12
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okay
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#13
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oakkeeee dokie
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MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#14
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How can I know if ive blown a head gasket?
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Sheckells MAV#29 |
#15
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You can pressurize the cylinder when engine is hot and look for bubbles in the radiator or again when hot pressurize the radiator and look for leaks. If no leaks are found and pressure will not hold chances are very good the gasket is bad, or a cracked head. TOM
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#16
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Well, i dont have a radiator on my 150, remember that. But its all good now, i needed to adjust a few things and then i was good to go.
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Sheckells MAV#29 |
#17
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What was wrong with it?
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#18
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Well, i adjusted the fuel air mixture. Also, once i got it out for a little bit, it started to warm up and i just kept adjusting it until i finally got it almost right.
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Sheckells MAV#29 |
#19
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has the smoking gotten better? sometimes the rings can stick if they sit for a while
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#20
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(older used SUN L 150cc) I too have just begun to get some serious white smoking both from the exhaust as well as breather on top of the head. Fearful it's rings- but still has decent pep. Idles and drives well. Only benefit is here in East Texas I'm keeping to mosquitos at bay! It did sit for over a year, but NEW carb, fresh oil, gear lube etc... Have run it for several hours on two occassions. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Stogs61; 07-18-2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: in addition... |
#21
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Sounds like the rings are bad possibly from sitting for 2 years. No big deal though. The job will take you if first time about 1 1/2 hours. You can call me and I can instruct you on how to do then if needed. Depending on the age of the engine Sunl used to have 57mm rings than switched to the more common 57.4mm rings. This you won't know until you pull the cylinder off and measure the cylinder. TOM
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#22
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How much crud will I have to pull off in order to get to them? Looks like carb, intake, the plastic shrouding... Where do you purchase parts? I have gotten different things from different sources... I got an entire engine for $100 from the warehouse in Dallas that was once Sun L. They had a stack of them that were re-done for a similar issue.
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#23
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Pretty much what you said . Exhaust,lowershroud, carb, upper shroud, valve cover, than loosen the 4 bolts for cam, release the tension of the cam tensioner, remove the 4 nuts, rocker assy, chain, cam, head than cylinder. I should have what you need in stock, all I will need to know is if you have the 57.4mm or 57mm cylinder. TOM
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#24
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Top end noise...
Thanks for the info. Tom. I've yet to break it down, but do hear some engine noise from the front of the motor- under the carb. Will fire it up a couple more times before breaking into it- and will take apart the extra motor that possibly had the same issue- it too was smoking and eventually quit all together. I think it had run low on oil. I've had the toughest time keeping oil in them, but they don't leak. The angle to put oil in- even with a funnel is really time consuming. I tilted the entire kart to put oil in them the last time. Might that have caused something? Not a mechanic, but have tinkered with them so much that I'm becoming one! Made a chain guard from a tin vent pipe, a throttle spring out of a heavy clothes hanger. My next project is to get the brake lights going (the kind with the switch between the seats) since I now have both of them in service. What I'd kill for is that Model's (Sun L Model 2A) owner's manual. Have one of the front wheels to unstick a brake caliper too. My two youngest sons are 12 & 15 so got them as sort of projects. They haven't disappointed me in that regard, but we have a blast riding them as well. Thanks for the information. Will get the size of the cylinder as soon as I get something to properly measure them with.
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#25
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Rings / Valves
I had posted an issue with my GY6 engine last year and just now getting around to tearing it down...
SYCARMS has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - White Smoke? - in the 150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech forum of BuggyMasters.Com - An On Line Mini Buggy Forum and Go Kart Forum. This thread is located at: http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...7&goto=newpost Here is the message that has just been posted: As a reminder... The karts I bought were from the box 150cc SunL Model 2-A that I had bought used.. They had been sitting up and after putting new carbs on them they ran really well... Until... A few hard rides and they both started blowing white smoke. I've taken the one engine down and although the valves are all but sealed shut, the rings, piston & cylinder wall itself look fine. There is a score on the wall of the cylinder I finally got a micrometer and have the 57.4 mm cylinder on it. Realize I'd never be able to free the valves, but cylinder/piston looks OK, although I think new rings are in order- especially since I have it torn down. Notice the kit that the replacement rings have 5 total, 4 plus the thicker one closest to the shaft. I only took 2 off. How do you get the lower (thicker) one off? Thanks! |
#26
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" piston & cylinder wall itself look fine." "but cylinder/piston looks OK" ----I don't agree with those statements!!! Cylinder looks BAD
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#27
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it sanded smooth, but probably should be replaced. Any thoughts on the # of rings required?
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#28
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I hope you meant honed smooth and not sanded smooth.Since I haven't replaced rings in GY6 but have in MANY other types of engines I can't provide exact information- But I'm sure someone will jump in that has. In the pic I see 3 slots for a ring, But this doesn't mean only 3 rings are used. Usually the bottom slot is your oil rings (3) Are the rings in the kit all the same?There's an order that the rings are usually installed- did the kit come with instructions about this? do you remember where the original rings were from top to bottom?.Rarely can you pull rings from a pack and not have to file the end gap so knowing that specification is critical.
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#29
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I agree with Metal' that cylinder looks trashed. if you can hang a finger nail in the scratches then it's beyond honeing. If you sanded that scored area out then you have formed a depression which wont allow the the rings to seal.
White smoke is normaly an indication of water or a lean condition. Since you have no water then probably the jets are clogged from sitting up for so long. the gy6 piston has 3 slots and uses 5 rings. the bottom slot is your oil scraper . it uses the 2 shiney rings with the wavey ring sandwiched in between. The top two slots are for compression. The two dark carbon rings go in these slots. Ring gap is .0010, Postion the rings on the piston so the gaps are at- looking down from the top- 12 O-clock, 4 and 8 |
#30
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The lip at the top of that cylinder is what really looked so bad- it's a big lip!!! Thanx Ckau for your expertise with the Gy6 ring configuration.
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#31
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I glanced at the pic , thinking the jug was inverted. On second look, that lip is quite large. Since the gourged area is now at the bottom of the stroke it indicates the wrist pin is also loose and has beat out the connecting hole in the piston. The piston wobbles as it starts the up stroke. The piston needs to be replaced. This also means the connecting rod is now in questionable condition too.
IMO- You can try to salvage some of this stuff but you would be wasting money in the long run. I doubt you will get much run time out of this motor. Whenever I get one where the damage is extended to the point of affecting the connecting rod .I don't bother with that motor anymore. I found it is more economical to replace the whole motor than take chances. Considering the cost of replacement parts for a total top end rebuild plus the time and labor, I can simply get one of these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=400222401460 hard to beat the price when you add up the cost of individual top end parts. Swap out the final transmission shaft from your old motor, remove the brake connecting pin, gut the cvt of the kick start mechanisms, replace the fluids.. it's ready to drop in. About as close to a plug and play as you can get. I have used several from this seller with good results. |
#32
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I also will have to agree with the above. The pics I viewd in my e-mail were kind of blured, but looking at these pics I can see the cylinder is looking trashed. You can replace with a 159mm kit which will drop right in with no machining of the case if you don't have the odd ball cylinder. Measure diagnally center to center the stud holes in the cylinder. If they measure 3" you have the normal cylinder but if 3 1/8" you have the odd ball cylinder. Let us know which you have.
TOM |
#33
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Quote:
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