Rear Axle mod --another variation ...

[x-bird]

I figured that rather than bury this in my yerf saga thread or in any else's axle upgrade one, i'd pop a new one ....
Open to suggestions on this plan ....

Weakness of the stock spiderbox axle appear to be 2 main areas ...

Lack of adequate support at the ends.

A nasty little stress riser where the hub butts into the step up in axle diameter.

In setting up to see what replicating Ckau's (forgive me if credit is due someone else) dual-bearing per side upgrade, another approach sort of smacked me in the face.

The additional bearing carrier still gets installed and boxed in.

However, rather than just locating a bearing on the axle, i'm thinking about welding the bearing to the end of the hub at the side collar.

Additionally, the 90-degree step on the axle will get a fillet and build-up weld.

The weld will then get filed to match the axle OD and the bearing collar will get 2 more set screws These will be needed as the hub's splines will only be engaging the axle's splines in the area shown between the two marker lines on the hub.

Downside to this "creation include having the bearing retainer permanently captured between the hub and bearing and the need to cut and grind if either the hub or bearing fails.

Pluses include ...

eliminating the stress riser

Adding the second axle bearing support.

Adding about 1/2-3/4 inch width per side.


Other downsides??? Have at me with anything you can see.... Fingers are itching to start welding and i'm out of stuff to work on at the moment .... except for this ....

BTW... already worked out how to cut the old hanger plate to fit inside the rim ....
And dug out a 2-bolt collar shaft clamp from our old AMF bowling alley pinsetter motors that fits the axle perfectly--need to buy another.

Also was considering filling the space between the two bearings with sealed bearings in a tube that'd be gusset up to the new support all the way across, bit i think that might be a wee bit of overkill )))) i have a pile of sealed bearings from dead mower spindles that fit the bill ... LOL ...

[x-bird]

Discovered the downside--hopefully the only one ... It's in picture 1 . I'm afraid that limiting the amount of spline engagement area to the 1 inch or so shown will lead to a stripped spline or axle.

Of course i did begin the mod ...

Rather than fill out the end of the step and under the bearing collar with weld beads, i found that the 1" ID tubing slides over nicely, so i used a tubing cutter and cut a piece about 5/8ths long, beveled the end that meets the axle step, beveled the axle step all the way down to the core and fillet welded them together. At the other end of the tube, i laid a bead around it down into the splines then used a series of round files to give it a nice radiused transition. after filing and sanding, the bearing slides on smoothly and the hub meets right up to it.

Thankfully i didn't weld the hub to the bearing yet. I need to change the bearing type.

The benefit of this setup is that it will spread the hub load out over a much wider area, including taking the inside end of the hub up off the splines and up onto the thicker 1" diameter main shaft portion. The downside is back to axle engagement. I'm just not comfortable with 2 or even 4 set screws along with the 3/4 " of spline engagement area being enough to take the torque loading. Thoughts??

Options out there include bearings with the split collar and a series of broaches in the protruding inner race that the collar clamps around to lock it to a shaft and eccentric cam lock collars with the same basic arrangement.

What i'd really like is a bearing with a one piece inner of the same width as the ones i have, but broached for a 1/4 key. I could cut the keyway in the axle easily enough, but i can't find anything on the market that has a 1 inch ID and a thick enough inner race to have a keyway in it.

Think I'm stuck with 1 of 3 choices,

Adding 2 more set screws to the existing bearings (after welding the hubs on i would index the set screws to drilled dimples in the axle and match mark the hub end to the axle so they line up on removal and reinstall)

Going with the locking collar and broached bearing inner type bearing

Going with the eccentric cam lock type bearing. (the least attractive one)

This bearing is a direct replacement for the stock 3203 one, I' thinking it's my best choice along with lightly knurling the axle where this would lock on along with some Loctite green compound (for sleeves etc)

http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...-Insert/Detail

[x-bird]

Well, got my answer (nice to have a racing engineer as a regular customer) --stick with the set-screw type bearing and drill a couple pockets for them --and don't weld the hub to the axle because of the hardened steel. He feels the amount of spline engagement will be ok, as long as it's butted tight against the bearing race (which it is) and doesn't loosen up. Going to order new bearings and flangettes for this and keep the older ones as back-ups.


Big mis-type up there ^^^ ... "don't weld the hub to the inner race" is what i meant. Lol "gar*($Q#% *&%^#) hub won't come off for some reason!" Scary as it sounds, i knew a guy who once welded his brake calipers in place on his caprice ... and he was an auto mag writer no less !!!

[T3beatz]

subbed... I need to start on my rear axle mod, just got to find the time and start ordering all the crap. I might just go with Ckau's mod because of it's simplicity.

[x-bird]

Well, after the back and forth on bearings etc., what I'm doing is really just giving me a bit more width than i got by using spacers between the axle and hub (another 1/4-inch), getting rid of the 90-degree stress riser and adding the second bearing out at the stock axle end. It's actually pretty simple and low cost--(ckaus deal with a stock axle instead of the azusa)--matter of fact if I didn't want to put fresh bearings in, it would be a no-cost upgrade given that i have the 3203 parts. Without those, you just need the extra bearings and some 1/4 plate stock and a jigsaw blade for your sawzall.
I lost one of the round flangettes for the bearings (i think it fell in a bin that went to the scrapyard a week or two ago--had the axle standing in the same corner) if not for that, I could put it all together while waiting for the new bearings.

[x-bird]

Bearings came in yesterday, so I made a little progress.

took the idea i had for attaching the hub to the bearing and moved it over to the 2-bolt shaft clamp. kind of a no-no to weld on the hub (hardened) but even with all this work, i'm not expecting too much longevity out of this axle. It already has a slight bend to it. BMI is at 140. for them

anywho, attached one half of the clamp to the hub, drilled and tapped the other half for a set screw and indexed the hub to the axle so i can dimple the axle surface for the set screw and install on the same spline easily if i have to take it apart.

used the 3203 hangars for the new bearings. Going to use socket cap allen bolts for the one brake bolt that has to pass through the hanger. don't have to make as big a hole for that.

The shaft clamp rides on the 1 inch and will both clamp down and get locked in by the set screw to take some of the stress off the splines, spline engagement area is pretty minimal.

Used a single piece of 3x3 angle iron, going to add another 1/4 inch thick piece to stabilize the long side of the hangars.

Just have to find some shallow-head lock nuts for the axles.

inching ever so closer to completion

[T3beatz]

looks pretty good, I know I'll be doing my axle mod soon, I took my hubs off a week ago and the splines are really starting to twist up. also I have a slight shift in the axle from side to side, it's not locked into the bearings anymore.

[x-bird]

If the bearings aren't worn out, check the bearing hangars with the axle out. Mine weren't hanging 90 degrees from the frame and were spread out. When putting the axle in, I had to "pull" the bearings together to the hangars with the through bolts. The hangars were sort of splayed out and slightly twisted away from the frame.

[T3beatz]

yeah, I think that's what my problem is, the tubing where the chain tensioner mounts to us bent kinda in an upwards U. It had cracks in it on both sides, I had to re weld and put some angle over it just to get it fixed temporarily. I have another spiderbox swing arm in the shed out back, and once I change out axles I'll just use that swing arm for all my new mods. I'll start buying the parts I'll need one by one to get ready starting with the axle.

[x-bird]

I keep looking at the basic straight 1 inch 1/4 key stock axle with threaded ends at bmi--comes in 45 " length. just need to set up a keyed sprocket and rotor hub on it with set screws to lock it up good, slap it in with 1 inch bearings and maybe add a center bearing carrier. I don't think 1 inch diameter hubs with 1/4 keyway would be hard to find and again, a couple extra set screws to really lock them on the shaft is no big deal unless they're heat treated. Or even have the axle machined with splines to match something stout on the market. They also have the hangar plates with the bearings for around 20 bucks for the whole kit. If this rig of mine fails, i'm pretty sure that's what i'll be doing.

Did pick up my other shaft clamp this am, axle nuts 16 mm x 1.5 thread and long 10 mm x 1.25 socket cap bolts were a no go ... for the brake bolt, i'll jsut make a bigger hole, gotta find some shallow lock nuts for the axle though or i'm dead in the water ...

[T3beatz]

I saw the post the Ckau did on his mod and that's probably the stuff I'll go with. He said something about a flex-proof one from here... http://gokartgalaxy.com/deluxe_flexp...teel_axles.htm

I just hope the axle holds up better than the stock one, I also will probably do the hub the same way he recommends also. or just get one of the BMI 4x4" ones and re-drill my rims.

[ckau]

Originally Posted by T3beatz

I saw the post the Ckau did on his mod and that's probably the stuff I'll go with. He said something about a flex-proof one from here... http://gokartgalaxy.com/deluxe_flexp...teel_axles.htm

I just hope the axle holds up better than the stock one, I also will probably do the hub the same way he recommends also. or just get one of the BMI 4x4" ones and re-drill my rims.

The axle holds up very well. The first "flex proof" axle I promptly bent at the wheel hub due to lack of support. I then added the outboard and center bearing supports. The second axle with the correct supports has been in for about 4 years now. I've had only two issues with the set up. I sheared a sprocket hub and tore the spokes out of a wheel hub. the sprocket hub split and sliced the 1/4x1/4 key length ways after stabbing the gas on hard pack. The wheel hub snapped doing laps on a oval track. neither had any effect on the integrity of the axle.
I mated the stock 4/110 rear hubs with the machine coupler in order to use the key way and also to retain the original bolt pattern. The 3/4 step down gives a shoulder to bolt the hub tight to the axle end with a axle nut. The set screws in the coupler then only have to serve as locks for the key stock. You use a locking collar behind the coupler to help keep the key stock from "walking out". In time, the key way and key stock will wear a touch so the key stock has the tendency to work loose from under the coupler. The locking collar holds the key stock in place.

[x-bird]

Wrapped up the (bearing) "house that x built"

total width outside-to-outside on the tires is 48, gives me a good solid 3/4 inch clearance between the tire and rear frame corner.

Hopefully going to get the engine in tonight.

Got the new bearings and final shaft from TOM/SYC --can't be said enough how good he is to his customers and the hobby as a whole.


Final shaft is from a kinroad, puts the reverse box over to the right, either it'll line up with the yerf sprocket, too far over and i may have to try the old shaft and hope it was just the bearing. (the bearing definitely was not in good shape)
I also have to re-engineer the reverse box to engine support bracket to fit the change, even if it lines up with the sprocket. So no road test or completed pics or vids just yet ...

[T3beatz]

Lookin good, is your hub welded to the locking collar?

[x-bird]

Yes, it's welded to the half the bolts for the collar pass through. the threaded side is free and is drilled and tapped with a set screw at center. i found the "smoothest" hub engagement position on the splines and index marked the shaft and the hub to it, then drilled a dimple in the shaft for the collar's set screw to lock into after it has been tightened around the shaft. anytime i need to remove it, ican put it back on the same spline position and hit the dimple. same goes for the new bearings, dimpled the axle for their set screws and index marked the axle for re-alignment purposes.

the collar itself clamps around the area where i welded tubing over the splines and made it match the od of the thickest part of the shaft. It took some doing to get it all dialed in, but it butts snugly against both the bearing (shaft collar side) and the end of the tubing welded over the splines (original hub end).

I discovered that the axle nuts are the same dia. and pitch as the transmission output shaft/reverse gearbox nut, but can't find any locally and only found plain hex nuts on the internet. I need low height ones to boot. nothing at fastenal, grainer, bolt dept, lowes, H depot, Ace etc .... I had an extra pair of castle nuts that fit it, so i drilled those and the axle out and installed a temporary cotter pin (trim nail "Z" bent)

Everything's in, no major glitches on the install, surprisingly the brake caliper bolt inside the hangar was one of the easiest things to tighten up.

chain alignment is now about 1/8th to the right, i'm hoping it doesn't cause any skipping/jumping, otherwise going to have to make shims for the sprocket on the reverse box. my "puck" spacer to support the axle sprocket i had made is now unnecessary.

still have to throw the tank on, wire it and stick the seat in, but so far, looks like a test run is on the way in the next few days.

[T3beatz]

I've found the nuts at handyman hardware... they are the same for the gearbox, axle nut, and stock front spindle nut.

[x-bird]

don't have those around me, only place i haven't hit is tractor supply ... may have to send u shopping LOL )))

[T3beatz]

Next time I go out I'll get a few extras... if you need I can ship them with no problem just let me know... I usually get the low profile nylon lock ones.

[x-bird]

That'd be awesome. i looked up handyman, nothing around me--ACE is our true value hardware chain, but they're all newer and only stock the most common hardware. I'll hit TSC sometime in the next week or so, -- if they don't have it, i'll let you know. About 1/2 dozen of the low profile ones is what I'm after.

[T3beatz]

No problem, I'll get them today or tomorrow, if you need them I'll ship em, if not then I'll just keep em as spares.

[x-bird]

Here's one for the "I can't believe my luck!" ... maybe ... file.
Just started dismantling the old Ez-Go golf cart rear axle assembly I picked up yesterday.
This is a complete electric motor rear, springs, hubs, drum brakes, c-section/diff etc.

First off, hub-to-hub (inside) is right around 36 inches, same as what i have with the extensions on mine.

So I open up the carrier to see what type of diff/pinion setup is in there. these are gear reduction units with the motor mounted right to it. the back end is a 10 bolt cover with a center gear cluster right out of gm basically. There's a cog tooth style "ring" gear that's bolted to a really stout hub. center of the hub flange is 15 1/2 from the wheel hub, matching pretty darn close to the sprocket distance on the spiderbox rear.

I'm considering keeping the entire unit close to intact if i can, welding the center gear cluster together to basically turn it into a spool type and sealing the axle tube inner ends. I could drop some hangars right to the tubes and weld them up. (They may even fit in the existing hangars.) biggest hurdle would be what to do with the carrier section. Chop it 1/3 open and use it as is? Scrap it for a 3/4 box made out of plate with the carrier bearings fitting into that????

Gets even better. axle tubes have seals on both ends. took the entire unit apart. bottom gear had a seized bearing, which is why this probably hit the scrap heap. Rear is a Dana. If i replace the open-ball carrier bearings with sealed ones, i can cut the carrier case (aluminum) beyond the carrier bearing mounts and have enough room for the chain to run. structurally the case is pretty nice and with the axle tubes welded to the swingarm on both ends it should work pretty well. Only issue to stop this in it's tracks is finding a sprocket to match the spider gear hub flange.

"Aaaannnnddd" heh place that line LOL ....

The flangettes from the axle bearings match the od of the golf cart axle tube perfectly

"aaaannnnnddd" the original golf cart ring gear is bigger than the axle sprocket. If that didn't fit it would be game over ...
I can put the cover back on the diff and even make a rubber boot for the chopped side of the diff with two holes for the chain to run through.

Liking this so far!

Only real work to do on this deal is to either weld the spider gears, or install a female splined coupler to slide the axles into. Snap rings in the axle tube ends retain the bearings & axles on the outside end. Inside a roll pin through the spider gear idler shaft and then the mesh of the 4 spider gears handled keeping the axles locked from moving inwards.

Debating the brakes, hubs are pretty heavy cable style drums. (cables were shot, so i cut them) firebird setup time there. Most likely hydraulic disc hubs are on the GC market that'll fit in the 8 inch rim. might be spendy.
If i switch the sunl to polaris or kawasaki front hubs, it has a set of front hubs that have discs and calipers inside 8-inch rims, i may have a friend TIG on some lugs for the discs I'd have front hyd disc and cable drum rear with a split pedal. )))

[x-bird]

OK ... so for all new readers of this particular thread, throw any thoughts of modding a stock spiderbox axle in the trash can along with the axle. Ckau's bearing hangars, saving a stock axle ... save yourself a painful lesson!


Anyway, onto the latest idea for this thing. Electric Golf cart dana rear end --basically the whole kit and caboodle minus the shock, leaf spring and brake cable mounts.

here's some pics of what i'm thinking.

chopped the center section, may be able to run the chain through either end if the c-section hits the engine--it's close, won't know until i chop the junk off the axle tubes and enlarge the hangar openings to pop the tube up into there.

biggest lingering concern is whether the cut down c-section will survive or crack . if this all fits, it will have 4 direct mounts to the bearing hangars (half-"C's forming a circle around and welded to the axle tubes and bolting to the hangers) plus 2 more of the same at the axle inners to an additional lower framerail that doesn't exist yet.

Up to that point, the fab work isn't too difficult and is basically no cost.

the 39T sprocket needs precision cut and drilled to bolt onto the cart's carrier--nothing out there to fit it with a chain sprocket.

The hyd brake goes bye bye and the cart's drum brakes take over the stopping duties, i also have plenty of golf cart rims so that's a done deal.

The reverse box/shaft stabilizer rig does interfere, but i'm thinking the axle tube may be a good place to make a bracket to run it and the engine to --would be slotted for chain tensioning purposes.


What could make this a real pain is if i decide the c-section isn't up to the stress --option then is to make a steel box, weld the axle tubes into that and find a set of bearing blocks to weld or bolt in for the carrier hub. Or scrap this idea and move onto the next ... But i really like these axles, good quality forgings ...

[Zapper]

Say a faster way is to find a motorcycle trike rear and bolt right up and gear ratio is almost unlimited

[x-bird]

trike rear would likely be a little too big to fit without making the wheelbase longer ... and the prices on those puppies!!!! the following is from frankenstein ....

"Our Trike rear end has a Dana 30 open differential, there must be a differential in any rear end used on the street to allow the outside wheel to turn faster when cornering. It pulls on both tires all the time unless you have one wheel on sand or a slick surface, then that tire would spin. It isn't a positrac or limited slip, a positrac or limited slip has clutches inside the differential to limit wheel spin on one wheel, these are designed for the weight of a car and does not work well on a trike, it would have a tendency to push the trike straight in corners.
We had a 140 HP 145 ft.lbs. of torque 127 cu. in. engine in the Frankenstein trike, it would smoke both tires or if it hooked up, wheelie.
Since it does not have a driveshaft it has no tendencies to lift the right rear tire and spin it like a car without a positrac or limited slip differential."

i'm thinking of trying the setup without welding the spider gears up.

if it doesn't fit, biggest problem i've created is that i have to cut the bearing hangar openings out to two inch diameter. i'll have to repair those to go with the azusa flexproof.

just really not wanting to spend another nickel on this.

[Zapper]

Why does everyone use this kind of bearing.The 4 bolt flange are a lot stronger and you can get them almos anywhere.

[metalstudman1]

I'm liking the looks of the rear end(solid) and the width isn't that far off to the bearing mounts. Keep posting as you make progress!!! I guess your recovery is coming along!!!

[metalstudman1]

Originally Posted by Zapper

Why does everyone use this kind of bearing.The 4 bolt flange are a lot stronger and you can get them almos anywhere.

I had the same thoughts early on about flangettes.
FYI- I've tried 2 bolt,3 bolt & 4 bolt flangettes- I've found no substantial difference in strength- Our Spiderbox has a 2 bolt for the last 3 years. IMO- All flangettes need to be boxed or re-enforce for lateral movement regardless the bolt pattern if you're going to drive hard.

[x-bird]

It's going to be about 6 inches wider total on the rear track which is why i may try it as an operational "open" style rear first so it doesn't push like a bulldozer. The rectangular plates on the tubes are for the drum brake backing plates, I'm going to use those. I cut, but forgot to remove the brake cable clevises and saddle hardware off the cart when i dumped it back at the salvage yard. probably still there.

Everything else gets cleaned off the tubes. (today's mission) then the "C's" go on to bolt to the hangars. I'm thinking with a total of 6 attachment points, the c-section should hold up well, even with it cut in half.

as far as recovery goes, whole arm is purple and the swelling is finally going down. can almost straighten my elbow out. going to have to start some self imposed PT to get some flexibility back into it.
Been working since the day after it happened, just picking and choosing which jobs i tackle so i don't tear it up worse.

[x-bird]

Nosed around the atvs this morning before the rain hit for sprocket choices, but 520 series won't work. So It was back to modifying the stock sprocket to install on the carrier hub. Took about 6 sessions with the hole saw to get through this bugger! Beat the heck out of me and started cooking the drill in the process ...

It had some drift to it, so i've been filing and sanding to get it concentric.

Like my indicator? (wd-40 can)
I've got it really close and am using feeler gauges between the chain link and the carrier hub to get it dead center. i've about 1/32nd off at the moment

wife kicked me and the little one out for some peace and quiet, so i'll be picking up a transfer punch to make sure i get the bolt holes on the money ....

Still kicking around ideas for the overall mounts to the swingarm. going to have to chop away more of the bearing hangars than i wanted to in order to get it past the center crossbar on the swingarm. In place, it clears, just can't get it in the hangars because the c-section hits it on the way in.

[Zapper]

Have you tried *************.com.The have all kinds or sprokets and chain.Just thought you may be interested.

[x-bird]

Yeah put in and hit my limit on the search. This is an oddball setup for a sprocket, another instance of me creating the need for a non-existent component. I'm really good at that ....

Struck out on the transfer punch. Figure i'll just get it in position and finger-spin a 3/8ths bit to make a mark to center punch

[Zapper]

Me to seems like I always get the oddball stuf and have to build it myself.

[x-bird]

a little more hacking away this evening. ground off the rest of the various mounts and welds on the axle tube --quality welds, wiped out all of my grinder disc stock --took them all to the fiber.


Still looks doable, close, but should work . i'm losing about 1 inch of ground clearance. Thinking about talking to a couple people about tigging on a cover for the the bottom section to beef it up. about the weakest part..

wondering if the bearing caps will withstand the pull ...

some basic welded on tabs should handle the bolt-in duties, may weld the nuts to the insides of the bearing hangar boxes. just about impossible to get anything inside with the tube in place.

the diff cover will get some holes for the chain to pass through and i'll likely back-brace it somewhat.

going to have to swap to the GC rims, not relishing swapping these tires again ... the one's bead is getting to be really rough.

[T3beatz]

I know about having to change out tires... I can't stand when I get something set, then have to go back and change it all around.

[Zapper]

flipping axel housing around ,slot enough for chain clearance.The cover should give you enough strenght.Make an H cover for the end and go for broke.
Just a suggestion.

[x-bird]

I can go either direction, (tried both) but flipping it eats up another inch of ground clearance and puts the edge of the housing at a really bad angle for snagging protruding rocks etc. In some places the C-section is really thin, the rectangular portion that i cut away is one of them and i'd have to cut more of it away for the chain to clear. One of my employees dad just closed up his welding shop, I'm hoping he still has a tig around. I can trim the bottom part of the rectangle back to make it parallel the ground and was going to see if i can get it welded completely closed like that. I have some stout aluminum C-channel (5056 iirc) for that if needed. the original metal cover i'm going to put a couple holes in for the chain and then add some ribs on the outside.

Swapping the tires isn't to much of a bother, it's just one bead is really shot from my first install attempt, it's chunked up pretty badly--6-ply with heavy wire beads and the bead is misshapen.

I decided that working inside the hangar boxes for mounting is going to be too much of a PITA. So the mounts will be angle iron welded horizontally to the outside of the bearing hangar and framerails. Another piece of 3x3 heavy angle will cross between the back tubes (where you guys added tubing) and slightly smaller angle iron going from that to the mid cross tube. the axle will have angle iron tabs like a leaf spring perch to meet those and allow vertical bolts to go into welded nuts.
I'm going to "drop" the tubes/housing down about an inch to0 give a little more room betweent he housing and engine/mid tube area.

Gave some though to solid-mounting the reverse box support bracket down to the frame or axle but think that will lead to stress cracking of the engine case. It fits with the housing in place, so that and the chain tensioner will stay "stock" with the exception of of bracing the top tube/tensioner bracket.

Already eye-balled whether the Suzuki 250 will fit back there, its chain sprocket is in a fairly decent location ...winter project.

[Zapper]

Do you think you could relocate the rear axel to give more clearance.I know you have already built the bearing housings,but if you did you could use a longer travel shock.Just a thought.

[x-bird]

it's the center section on the axle housing itself that concerns me regarding clearance .... no matter what i do, that's going to be the lowest point and i like riding rocky terrain. Going to put a stripe on the dashboard in line with the low point for a visual reminder of where not to drive over the pointy stuff. ))

[Zapper]

If you look at my album of the rear of the Trantula this thing has the whole motor is hung high off the swing arm.I think this is the best setup i have seen so far.

[x-bird]

Heavy Metal ...
been picking away at it when i can find the time ...
Decided the spider gears are going to get welded up for a locked rear instead of even messing with an open setup at all.

When i installed my mounting brackets on the swingarm, i intended to drop the axle a little to get some clearance between the center section and engine and swingarm... for some reason, i ended up about an inch and a half lower than i wanted. no big deal, going to do a little box & brace from the old bearing hangars and new brackets to the front and rear bottom tube corners of the swingarm. The location puts the chain real close to the crossmember i added, so I have an idler pulley to add to keep it from hitting the crossmember. And the chain i just shortened had to be lengthened

Also used the chunk of angle iron leftover from cutting out the front corner frame supports last year to beef up the top tube, which has a definite "bow" downwards in it.

BTW, the engine is now a "through-the-side" install/remove. tight, but it works. I have to pull the carb and muffler. with the shock off and the header pipe off it's relatively easy. with them on, a little too much cussing!.

Didn't have anything decent tubing-wise for the frame, so i used 2 pieces of angle iron and made my own box tube. Cut the stock round tube in the corner, hammered it in and squared the angle iron into that. The round tube going forward to carry the axle mount next to the center section is the steerer tube from the suzuki quadrunner

two of my tack welds failed pulling the rear out from underneath, so i'll bench mount it to the swingarm and re-install the mount plates, all of the ones on the axle tubes will have gussets one each side so the axle tube doesn't twist the welds on the plates right off. There's 5 in total, i want to make sure the axle tubes won't flex the carrier.

the drum brake setup is going to be tight, but workable. all the brake components on the backing plate are like brand new, so this thing went through a rebuild at some point.

Getting pretty close to completion, Have a pretty long welding session ahead of me. Brakes will probably be the biggest hassle.

[T3beatz]

lookin good, seems like you still have a lot of work ahead of you.

BTW did the nuts make it to you?

[x-bird]

This thread sort of got a little lost along the way ... I've been trying to push this latest axle set-up as hard as possible to reveal any faults and so far it has been rock solid. While i haven't been able to bash it on my rocky run, i've been trying to hit it as hard as possible otherwise.

On the golf cart forum i frequent, i was warned about stripping the splines out of the drum hubs, but i've checked the axle nut after each test and reshimmed (castle/cotter setup with no backing-off for cotter alignment) and tightened it as needed --- which was one time after the initial tightening for each side. I think that issue relates to these when used with an open diff--i could see them stripping if the hub was loose and all the power went to one side.

So for anyone looking for a bulletproof--albeit heavy-- rear axle setup--this is a viable method to consider.
Heck, i'm even getting used to drum brakes--good enough for my firebird, so why not the hound?

[x-bird]

Repair time for the axle housing. Running with a flat tire over rocky terrain with an aluminum housing--not recommended so much Pretty much tore the entire bottom section out in one fell swoop. It's probably a permanent part of the race course or got into some poor racers tire ...

Anyway, cleaned up all the edges and had to do quite a bit of grinding on the internal walls as well as the sides of the C-channel I'm using as it the channel was about 1/8th inch too wide. Pretty sure this stuff is 6061 grade or something of that nature, very difficult to grind on the flat, just doesn't want to cut. I though of splitting the channel into angles and going back-to-back down the center, leaving a protruding keel-like rib, but that would have created 8 pieces to weld into place as the sides would also have needed angles welded to them to make to the "T" in the middle.
Got it pretty well cleaned and prepped--dropping it off this afternoon at an old friend's shop for him to Tig it together.

I'm leaving enough room for a future mod ... a pair of aluminum sleeves welded into the lowest corners with a slot cut through the corner walls next to the sprocket. Put a shaft through with a wheel protruding about an inch through the slot to roll over bottom outs. Pretty much the same thought as the anti-scalp wheels on my deck mowers. In the race vid, the first spot i got stuck and and had to reverse out of was the high center around a set of deep ruts that the leading edge of the housing just dug into like a pan dozer. That course has ruts like that 2-3 feet deep in places for about 50-70 percent of its length.