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#1
02-21-2012, 09:26 PM
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rear wheels stuck !
On my yerf 3203 I need to get the rear wheels off to replace the tires. I got the nut off but the wheel wont budge. I have tried everything, well almost. I have soaked it with pb blaster. screwed the nut back on part way, put the socket on the nut and beat the crap out of it. nothing will loosen it up. Any ideas?
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#2
02-21-2012, 09:42 PM
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Been there... not pretty... I soaked mine with PB for weeks, still no luck. I finally got a new axle, bearing, c clips, keys, new tires, and built a new axle. If there is even a little bit of rust, nothing slides off. I even painted the new axle with a light coat of paint to stop rust, nothing slid on or off ! It is such a tight tolerance, it has to be clean. I put grease inside everything I could when I put it back together, and plan to take the wheels on an off on a regular basis. Good news it the axle is 15$
http://www.*************/item/Axle-Sh...-38-01132-3673 I left the old axle outside for weeks, walked up to it one day, took a punch and hit it in the dimple in the axle, it finally came off after several whacks ! Heat from a torch may have worked, but don't have one, and bearing were shot as well, so started over. You are now probably understanding why these are "projects". btw - finally posted some predator throttle pictures in other thread. |
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#4
02-21-2012, 10:25 PM
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yeh, most of these have been used, abused, rode hard and put up wet.... I even kept buying ones to rebuild, since once they get going, no guarantee they will keep going when you want them. When my granson's come over to ride, I usually end up with one in the "shop" while they are here. Why I decided to go ahead and rebuild as much as possible.
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#5
02-21-2012, 11:02 PM
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Check the axle right next to the hub and make sure there isn't a buildup of rust and dirt. it doesn't take much to lock a shaft onto a hub or bearing. If it's dirty, the axle is oversize to the hub and the more you work it into the dirty part, the tighter it'll get. clean it up with a wire brush followed by some fine grit emery cloth run around the axle like a shoelace--just pull back and forth until you have clean bare metal right next to the hub-- and all the to its end.
If that doesn't do it then ... If you can get the axle to drop out with the wheel/s attached, (you may have to tweak the bearing hangar over a bit to pop it out) and can figure out a way to make a pair of solid "stacks" (pair of really beefy sawhorses, 4x4 or bigger wood post stubs --cinder blocks would work, just stack them hole-side up etc.) you can deflate the wheel, rest the rim edges on the stacks (on a piece of 2x4 etc to protect them) with the axle hanging in between them and drive it out downwards using a hefty wood block and a 3 to 5 or 8 pound sledge. reassembly--new or old, use anti-seize on the axle. The driver's side on mine was always a fight. Even with my brand new axle (spiderbox splined type) and new hubs I have one that's tight and i have to work it off with the big deadblow hammer on the tire. Last edited by x-bird; 02-21-2012 at 11:07 PM. |
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#6
02-21-2012, 11:47 PM
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The 3202 has a solid axle with 1/4" key stock.
You know what I found to work by accident? Soak the axle with penetrating oil. (which I;m sure you have) Then take an air hammer and a block of wood to the axle, wheel, whatever you can that won't cause any damage. The outrageous vibration from the hammer shakes things up pretty well, and hopefully the key should walk enough for things to move. |
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#7
02-22-2012, 08:48 AM
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