What gauge wire and size fuse for headlights

[Breakhard]

Breakhard here, still working on my Fox Helix 150 with the GY6 motor. It appears that it has aftermarket headlights that were wired direct to the battery. The headlights are two 6" round 12v 35w each mounted on the outside of the front roll bar. There is a third rectangular shaped light mounted on the front plate where the Fox emblem was (before the previous owner spray painted over it) I don't know anything more. other than it must be 12v.

The original wiring, before I removed it went like this....from the positive side of the battery ran a 12 gauge wire 8-10" long with an inline 7.5 amp fuse. Spliced to that is a length of 10 gauge wire that runs along side the throttle and brake cables. Then spliced in is another length of 12 gauge wire going to a single pole off/on switch. From the switch is a ??? gauge wire spiced to the three headlights....with duct tape!!!! The switch was taped to the frame of the go kart . No tail lights. The two 6" lights were single wire, so the frame must have been used for the ground. The rectangular light has two wires, one going to a screw into the frame for it's ground the other to the wire coming off the swithc.

I'm replacing the headlights with similar ones and plan on using the frame for the ground. Then replacing the wire from the battery with one continues length and also replacing the switch with a waterproof one.

What gauge wire, from the battery should be used....and should all three headlights run off the same wire and same switch or should each light be run separately.....and, if so what size wire would you use. What size fuse should be used?? The battery is new, so what will running the headlights do to it?

As always, thanks for your time and advice. Breakhard!!!!

[Breakhard]

Additional info I failed to mention in my first note. I'm replacing the two 6" headlights because it appears that they were used as targets for someone's 22.

[Masteryota]

If you are going to run similar 35w lights, I would go no less than 14ga. You can run them in series, but that puts a big load on the wire and fuse, I personally would incorporate a relay into the system, as 2 35w lights will pull a good amount of current, resulting in excessive heat if run though just a switch.

Have you considered LED replacements? They used about 1/10th the current, don't get hot, and last about 10 times as long, and are not real sensitive to shock(movement). If you were to got with LED's, you could get away with 18ga wire to both, and forgo the relay, as it won't draw enough current to create much heat. Plus we have a vendor on this site that deals in them and we get a discount, although I remember someone saying the site was down.

I, for example, am looking at some LED fog light style driving lights, they are low profile, water and shock proof, and bright as all get out.

I posted a generalized wiring diagram below, its fairly simple, but very effective and safe, If you buy a kit, almost all of your wiring, switches and a relay are included, which is nice, just make sure you get something bright enough, i.e. beware of cheap eBay light kits.

Also, take note, be careful when running a chassis ground to the frame if the battery is mounted in the swingarm, sometimes the bushing/bolts don't supply a great ground, 2 options there, run all the grounds back to the battery(tedious and lotsa wire, and ugly) or run a 14-16ga single wire from the swingarm to the main frame, essentially ensuring any thing grounded to the frame will have a good solid connection to the battery.

[Breakhard]

Masteryota, thank you so much for the information and diagram. I'm sorta committed to the type of lights, as I've already purchased them, and the buggy is a fix-up and sell kind of deal....which I've already sold. That said, I'll use your diagram to see if I can incorporate most, if not all of it. The two headlights only have one wire so the ground must be to the frame. I'll make sure where they attach is clean so I have a good ground. The switch in the diagram is exactly the one I have so should be easy to follow. Finally, would it be OK to run the supply (white) wire to the switch back to where the yellow wire from the battery ties into the Relay. I don't don't trust myself enough to mess around with the ignition switch/wiring. I will if you say that's the way to go, but if the other way is a good & easy work around I'd prefer to go that route. Again thanks for your input, I'll keep you posted as to how all this goes.

[Masteryota]

I don't see an issue with it, both wires are just 12v supply wires, make sure the wire is fused though. In reality, if it were me, I would do it the same way you are thinking, no need to run a separate feed wire, and putting it on the switch will be fine as well, I actually hated that I didn't have a switch for the lights on my spiderbox, but it will when I'm done with it.

[Jackstand Johnny]

Im currently running twin 55w Hellas with 14g wire and no inline fuse. Ive been running this same setup only with a 30 amp fuse in my Cherokee for a couple years now and they haven't let me down once. I'll prolly throw in an inline fuse on the buggy after reading this thread though. Never crossed my mind before.