|
|
|
|||||||
| Mini Buggy General Discussion General Discussion forum for Mini Buggies. (American Sportworks, HammerHead, Carter, etc) |
|
|
Thread Tools |
|
#1
02-22-2016, 06:28 PM
|
|||
|
|||
Burning through CDI's
I was running my Baja 150 GY6 just fine and hosed it down. The next morning no spark.
I checked the Stator voltage and I get 40VAC from the stator and 0.1 from the trigger, so that seems ok. The CDI was showing 10 volts output, so I got a new one. It started at 22 volts, but then decayed to 8-10volts within 10 seconds. I tried another new one, and same story. These "new" ones now only start with 10v at first crank. Before I buy a bunch more CDI's, I need help. Any ideas what is going on? |
|
#3
02-23-2016, 01:08 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yes, I agree, am pretty sure the hosing is to blame. My harness was pretty old and brittle so I replaced it, but the problem persists. Could be the ignition harness, but I think I am bypassing that by removing pin 5.
My stator is giving 40v steady, and .09 at the Stator switch. Is 40v too low? |
|
#4
02-23-2016, 03:45 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Remove the 2 and 4 pin connector from the cdi. Connect the + lead of multi-meter to the black red wire at the 2 pin plug of cdi. Connect the black of the meter to the green wire from 4 pin side of cdi. Turn on the ignition and you should have 122v AC or higher. Next with cdi wires still disconnected put positive of meter to the trigger wire and the negative to the same green wire of 4 pin connector. turn on the ignition and you should read 2.1V AC or higher.
|
|
#6
02-23-2016, 09:50 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ok, followed instructions from above, and so I get 40v, not 122v. I get .09V, not 2.1V. So....that is good, it means ....means...what? Stator and trigger ? I bought an impact driver a few weeks ago in anticipation of that, but my first troubleshooting indicated those were ok.
|
|
#7
02-24-2016, 10:52 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Is this one of the machines where the headlights rin off of the stator instead of the battery? (I.e. Headlight brightness changes significantly with engine rpm?)
|
|
#9
02-24-2016, 01:59 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
OK just to be certain you have 2 bullet connectors one will be the black and red the other will be the trigger wire. Follow the wires from the stator where they exit the case and follow them and you will find the bullet connectors. Repeat the same test as previous using the same ground wire as before but this time you will take your readings at bullet connectors. If you get the same readings than the stator is bad. If you get normal readings than the problem is in the engine harness between stator and cdi.
|
|
#10
02-24-2016, 02:30 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yes, I get the exact same readings when testing each bullet connector to ground. Looks like I need a new stator. Thank You!! One other question; when I take the stator housing nut off with a hammer driver, I assume it is a normal nut, and not reverse thread?
|
|
#13
03-04-2016, 10:03 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Ok, so I replaced the stator/pickup. The old one was caked with dirt, and so was the indside of the drum. I was certain they must be bad. But after installing the new stator, I still get 40V on the red bullet, and .04v on the trigger. I get 14v from the cdi to the coil. Battery shows 13v.
So far, I have installed a new stator, engine harness, cdi, rectifier, coil...and still I have a very weak/no spark. The only thing I haven't replaced is the ignition switch(s). Any other ideas? |
|
#14
03-04-2016, 11:00 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
bad ground ? bad connection, check over ur wiring.
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
|
#16
03-05-2016, 05:00 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Your input is extremely appreciated!
At the engine, I disconnected the plug that leads to the ignition switches (key and kill switch). I then jumped the solenoid to turn over the engine. I got 40V coming out of the CDI ! I also tried simply removing the 3 wires from the key switch and connecting them together, to see if it is within the key switch, but got the same poor 12v from CDI, so it must be a short in the ignition harness running through the frame. Need to buy one; I have a 6 prong plug at the enginem only 5 are used (Y,YR, R, Black, G). It looks like itbranches out somewhere as I have those 5 going to the kill/key switches, but also a R and a Black going to front lights (diconnected). Where can I get that harness? Its a Dune 150 |
|
#17
03-05-2016, 10:31 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
that's why we are here, help each other buggy nut out
 .
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
|
#18
03-06-2016, 02:05 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I doubt you will find one. You might have to pull your harness, purchase wire and connectors and wire one up using same or similar colors as the original. If I recall I spent appx. $125.00 on matching color wire and water tight connectors on the internet. I went with 14 gauge wire over the 18 gauge used with the original. Plus I have wire and connectors left over for other projects.
|
|
|
