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  #1  
Old 08-06-2015, 09:34 AM
tkeagle tkeagle is offline
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Default Font Clutch thoughts for gy6 CVT

This was a while back, I think I had a Nut come lose and was running free inside the CVT case. Well, at hearing a little clanking once and a while. Not at all times. But (something) busted up the Front clutches pretty good.
I had a aftermarket, so called (performance) clutch. I had a spare Stock spare set. So for now, just running it.
Anyone know if there is such a thing as High Performance front clutch system for these? I dont mind spending a little more money, IF actually is worth it. Going back to stock clutch, saw no performance lose at all.
I did see on one website.... About a duel slider system.. Anyone try those?
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  #2  
Old 08-06-2015, 11:13 AM
scjeep4.7HO scjeep4.7HO is offline
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That looks like my stock variator on my Hammerhead GTS150. I read about the DR2 Dual rate roller variator and it sounds like a good thing but I don't have any real world experience with one.
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Old 08-06-2015, 12:09 PM
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The Variator is stock. Never really saw anything that would increase performance on the Variator side. Guess was asking more on the Roller side. And yes, think that was it. DR2 dual rate. Anyone using this? And if it works as they say it does?
  #4  
Old 08-08-2015, 02:56 PM
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I use the dr2 on my baja 150 and Carter 150. They work great, I now have low end and top. I have no complain so far.
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Old 08-08-2015, 02:59 PM
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I'm also considering on a shorty clutch, the dr2 I got from Tom at Kidnme.
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Old 08-08-2015, 05:44 PM
scjeep4.7HO scjeep4.7HO is offline
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I changed the torque spring, clutch spring and rollers in the variator but it wasn't enough so now I want to do MORE! LoL
  #7  
Old 08-09-2015, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO View Post
I changed the torque spring, clutch spring and rollers in the variator but it wasn't enough so now I want to do MORE! LoL
that's because that just changes the shift points and doesn't add any power. Go with a top end setup will wake the buggy up then your going to want more after that lol.
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



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  #8  
Old 08-09-2015, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeagle View Post
This was a while back, I think I had a Nut come lose and was running free inside the CVT case. Well, at hearing a little clanking once and a while. Not at all times. But (something) busted up the Front clutches pretty good.
I had a aftermarket, so called (performance) clutch. I had a spare Stock spare set. So for now, just running it.
Anyone know if there is such a thing as High Performance front clutch system for these? I dont mind spending a little more money, IF actually is worth it. Going back to stock clutch, saw no performance lose at all.
I did see on one website.... About a duel slider system.. Anyone try those?
tkeagle, I would change that variator, I prefer the stock one but everyone is different.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2015, 12:43 PM
scjeep4.7HO scjeep4.7HO is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmansracerocket View Post
that's because that just changes the shift points and doesn't add any power. Go with a top end setup will wake the buggy up then your going to want more after that lol.
I know that right. I have a Paxton NOVI 1000 sitting on the shelf, it's big as the whole gy6. Maybe I should throw it on lol.
  #10  
Old 08-09-2015, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scjeep4.7HO View Post
I know that right. I have a Paxton NOVI 1000 sitting on the shelf, it's big as the whole gy6. Maybe I should throw it on lol.
lol ive been thinking about putting a votech blower on the mustang.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank.
  #11  
Old 08-09-2015, 06:16 PM
scjeep4.7HO scjeep4.7HO is offline
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I have the Paxton NOVI 2000 on my Jeep Grand Cherokee.

Last edited by scjeep4.7HO; 08-10-2015 at 09:56 PM.
  #12  
Old 08-10-2015, 09:36 AM
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miadieddie. Thx for input. As said, dont mind putting out the money, long as it works as they say it does. Had purchased a so called Performance Clutch and bell. Put it on, and tried burnout putting my front tires up against building, on concrete. Right off the bat, the clutch started slipping. The bell had holes throughout, for cooling, and grip on the clutch side of bell. Bell was also balanced. Looked like nice setup. However, after looking at it better. The clutch pads where Almost half the size, in length than the stock clutch pads. Same # of pads. You could tell where the pads made contact to the bell. Pads where making contact to less than half the bell.
Put a brand new stock clutch clutch and bell in. Smoked the tires right off. No clutch slipage, that I could tell.
Contacted the company, and told them what was going on. Asking why it was doing that. If had warped bell or what? Was told I must have put the clutch in (incorrectly). LOL. Sorry, I have put plenty of clutches in that thing. See what works best, and just playing around. It was put in correctly. Not as much as some ppl here on here. But they are not hard to put on.
After replying back that it was put in correctly. And sending them pics, and that what they was saying, didn't explain, why the only contact from pads to bell, was directly in the center of the bell.
They stoped replying back to me.
So, would like some feedback, if possible from items that are so called (performance).
  #13  
Old 08-10-2015, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeagle View Post
miadieddie. Thx for input. As said, dont mind putting out the money, long as it works as they say it does. Had purchased a so called Performance Clutch and bell. Put it on, and tried burnout putting my front tires up against building, on concrete. Right off the bat, the clutch started slipping. The bell had holes throughout, for cooling, and grip on the clutch side of bell. Bell was also balanced. Looked like nice setup. However, after looking at it better. The clutch pads where Almost half the size, in length than the stock clutch pads. Same # of pads. You could tell where the pads made contact to the bell. Pads where making contact to less than half the bell.
Put a brand new stock clutch clutch and bell in. Smoked the tires right off. No clutch slipage, that I could tell.
Contacted the company, and told them what was going on. Asking why it was doing that. If had warped bell or what? Was told I must have put the clutch in (incorrectly). LOL. Sorry, I have put plenty of clutches in that thing. See what works best, and just playing around. It was put in correctly. Not as much as some ppl here on here. But they are not hard to put on.
After replying back that it was put in correctly. And sending them pics, and that what they was saying, didn't explain, why the only contact from pads to bell, was directly in the center of the bell.
They stoped replying back to me.
So, would like some feedback, if possible from items that are so called (performance).
I feel you on this tkeagle, I remember the very first thing I did to my mustang 11 years ago was a "performance catback exhaust system" and what do you know I lost 1 hp on the dyno. Its stuff like that drives me nuts when you purchase a performance part and take the time to install or if you pay a shop to put it on and the part you bought was a loss or wash.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



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  #14  
Old 08-10-2015, 01:50 PM
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That sucks Jman. I'm sure the exhaust was not cheap. And to lose power, would tick me off for sure.
  #15  
Old 08-10-2015, 03:13 PM
scjeep4.7HO scjeep4.7HO is offline
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That's what has me skepticle about these Chinese motor/parts. Just because it says performance is it actually worth buying and installing. I'm sure there are allot of non mechanics that have bought inferior parts, installed them and then it ran worse and instead of going to what was done last which I would say is always the first place to look, they start looking at other items that May need replaced or even worse pay someone labor rate just a find new part they just installed was worse then the stock item it replaced.
  #16  
Old 08-10-2015, 07:12 PM
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Tkeagle that performance clutch you got what's it called? I'm thinking of getting a shorty clutch from Kidnme.
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  #17  
Old 08-10-2015, 07:14 PM
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Just wanna make sure not to get the one you got, and I'll also let everyone know how it goes for me with the shorty clutch.
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  #18  
Old 08-10-2015, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkeagle View Post
That sucks Jman. I'm sure the exhaust was not cheap. And to lose power, would tick me off for sure.
wasn't the only part I tried that didn't work well, I lived and learned a lot with my mustang. Its the same with the buggy stuff but the buggy stuff is a lot cheaper hobby.
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



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  #19  
Old 08-10-2015, 11:34 PM
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I can only assume he's talking about the Prodigy clutch. That's the only one that has a balanced bell in it's description that I can remember.

A clutch that seems to be proven is the Dr. Pulley HIT clutch, but at a price of $300 I'm not likely to find out. (Make sure it's for the buggy if you buy one. Rumor was guys smoked them if they were for the scooter?)

As far as variators go, some guys swear by the DR2's.

I personally run a stock variator with sliders, no problems thus far. (I also run a stock clutch and bell)
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  #20  
Old 08-11-2015, 02:28 AM
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Thanks 89..... The dr2 did me good, I have bottom end and my top end doesn't scream. I run the 11 gram sliders and 12 gram rollers on the dr2. That works well for the baja 150. The Carter 150 has 8 gram rollers and 10 gram rollers, that works for the carters. The shorty clutch is around $160. I'll try just one to see how well it is, it comes with a rebuilt kit so you don't ever have to buy another clutch again.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:15 AM
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Not sure what clutch it was. I'll get up on where ever I bought it, and see if cant find a name for it. Here are some pics of what I'm talking about.
They was trying to tell me that I didn't have it installed correctly, and the clutch wasn't making the correct contact. And if so, it would just make contact on the edges of bell. After sending these pics, they wouldn't get back to me.

Hard to tell from the pic, but pads are 1/3 less surface area, against the bell then a stock one. As you can see from pic, the contact area is very small. Can see contact area, from the pads, and the bell.

I still have the thing. Still pretty much brand new. Was thinking of using maybe the bell, with the stock clutch pads. See what kind of contact it would make. However, more work than I want to do, for something that may or maynot help. Maybe next time I get in there, I'll play with it. Maybe get some kind of use out of it. Think I paid around $150.00 for the kit.
However, the D2 looks like something I will look into.

Not sure of all the terms. What do you mean by "Shorty"? different type of clutch? Smaller?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bell clutch.jpg (88.4 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg bell.jpg (92.8 KB, 12 views)
  #22  
Old 08-11-2015, 09:37 AM
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xlint. Well, all I can find is it is called a Scooter High performance Clutch. So maybe there is something different between the Scooters, and Buggy Performance. But most stuff listed is under GY6 Scotter. However, I told them what I was using it on. And there was no bitch there.
So might be a good warning. If possible, make sure (on the Clutch end) that states is for buggy, rather then scooter. I guess. Still, after sending the pics, they could have at least offered to give my money back.

Honestly, the stock clutch, with a 1500rpm large spring does pretty good. On dry dirt or sand, my son can throw small rooster tails. but with 10 gram sliders, top end does take a while to get there. Why D2 sounds interesting.
Pics of son few weeks ago.
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File Type: jpg son buggy.jpg (103.3 KB, 13 views)
  #23  
Old 08-11-2015, 02:18 PM
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Here is a Video I made, once I changed out the so called Performance clutch, to the stock clutch and bell. The case was left off, so hopefully see if clutch was slipping.
Was impressed how well it did, since I'm around 230lbs.
Like to see what it would do under same test with a serious BB kit in it. Only 155cc BB in it now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMv_...ature=youtu.be
  #24  
Old 08-11-2015, 03:32 PM
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good looking yerf you got there tkeagle
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Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust.



Blade Single Seater Restore
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  #25  
Old 08-11-2015, 06:32 PM
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Cool, not the Prodigy then.

The shorty clutch is a smaller unit (hence the name shorty) that is made by an idependent retailer ( out of respect for tis site, I'm not posting it) but if you do a quick search you will find it.

It's supposed to be lighter than stock and results in better accel.

How about a pic of your exhaust? The right side exit is interesting.
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  #26  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:12 AM
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Thx Jman. Was a fun project for me and the kids last winter. Thou, dont look that clean right now. . As stated on another thread, need some repairs, welding ect.... Need to touch up paint again in places. All minor, and be something to do once it cools down again.

As far as the right exhaust. I found it for sale on ebay. Brand new, was about $50.00 cheaper than Other exhaust I was looking at. Solid Stainless steel. Very good quality. Plus it has a silencer with it. Very happy with it.
However, other modes needed to be made to make it work. #1, was the reverse box. There wasn't enough room to put the exhaust and reverse box on same side, if your going to mount the swing bracket to the engine. Where the reverse cable goes into the box, would hit the exhaust. Wasn’t enough room. But if I flipped it, had good clearance.
So I trimmed the bracket. Then welded a drop down bracket from the rear Cross bars from the spider box. Drilled a hole, and used nut and bolt to connect, so could be easily removed.

Exhaust came with two stainless steel straps. Only really needed one. Again I made a bracket coming from the side cross member off the spider box. Instead of hanging. It’s laying on top of the mount. The strap is very good quality. No issues of it busting or coming lose. Plus the kit came with rubber guards between the exhaust and mounting straps. So that was really nice to have. In that one side pic of the buggy, shows somewhat, what I did for mounting of the exhaust, and the reverse bracket.

Only other thing. Not sure if same issue’s with other exhaust. But does swing out a little. If you don’t have offset on your rims, 10inch is about the max width. But when got new rims, had them with an offset, and could put 12inch on if I want now.

Best to move the battery to the other side. (still have yet to do). Winter project again.

So really with all the work, and trial and error. Wondering if worth saving the $50.00. However, I really do love the exhaust. Looks great, and love the silencer. In town, at night, I can make it sound like a moped. Take it completely out, and can hear the kids clear a cross farm. (which I love).
One major PLUS. It’s sooooooo easy to get into the CVT case. For that reason alone, I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Came in 2 pieces, so had to weld the pipe and muffler. I wish NOW I would have fabed some sort of spring attachment like is done to the Honda Odyssey exhaust. The buggy sounded AWSOME with just that straight pipe. And would be able to hear the kids a mile away.

Other than modes to the buggy itself, pipe fits perfect to the GY6. If interested here is link to the closes one they still saling. Dang, Didn't know could get Carbon Fiber for $10.00 more. .


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hi-Performan...item2a54cfe82a
Attached Images
File Type: jpg reverse bracket.jpg (91.3 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg right rear.jpg (99.8 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg exhaust 1 (2).jpg (94.1 KB, 15 views)
  #27  
Old 08-12-2015, 12:14 PM
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A little better close up pic of it. And it has been rolled a few times. And no dmg has been done to the exhaust. only way it might dmg it, is if flipped end over end. Can see the silencer. It's adjustable. It has two plates, and can rotate it, to get different tones out of it.
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File Type: jpg blow up exhaust.jpg (104.1 KB, 13 views)
  #28  
Old 08-12-2015, 12:53 PM
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Boy , that looks like some extreme angle on the swingarm/engine cradle . I'd be wondering about float level , and crankcase oil level .
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:39 PM
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Float Lvl has been adjusted. And when changing or adding oil. I either find a steap ditch, or use my friends fork lift. Lift the rear end, til engine is lvl, to get the correct oil lvl. When doing this, didn't know about flipping the shock bracket upside down, to make it more lvl. Something I might look into this winter. I haven't had any issues with the oil. Engine purs like a kitten. However, took a while to get carb tuned in. And get the float lvl good, to where not pour gas out of carb, and still high enough at WOT.
 


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