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Old 05-24-2013, 06:57 PM
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Masteryota Masteryota is offline
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Default RM80 clutch slipping

Ok, I bought an RM80 with a bad top end, turns out the water pump seal failed, overheated, and cooked the piston. Bored .5mm(was already sleeved), Wiseco forged piston, new Suzuki water pump impeller, bearings and seal. From the outside the clutches looked ok, but I know coolant does naughty things in there, and now the clutch slips at anything over 1/4 throttle. Changed the oil 3 times, marginally better each time.

Is there a way to fix without ripping cover off and R&R clutches and springs?

I was planning to sell this thing, but now its turning into a $$ pit, and its waay too small for me.
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:03 AM
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Old thread, new issue. Now I have a float seat oring problem, which overfills the carb and either pukes out the side overflow vents, or loads the cylinder up with fuel. The repair kit is only available from suzuki, and runs around $70. New carbs on ebay are running $30-60, but they are round slide carbs, where as the bike came with a flat slide carb. The numbers match, and it should fit in place of the flat slide unit, but is there anything else I should know before gambling with one?

BTW, the new carbs are mikuni housings.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:41 PM
351mustanger 351mustanger is offline
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Your best bet is to take the clutch out and clean it up with some brake parts cleaner. Take some calipers and check the specs on the friction plates. Some of those have steel plates and some have aluminum between the friction plates. The aluminum ones wear quick if rode aggressively. The alumnum ones will be obvious if worn (they will look like a worn brake rotor). The secondary option would be to flush it out several times with kerosene. Put kerosene in the trans and kick away for awhile. Then drain and repeat a few times. Make sure to pull in the clutch lever while kicking so the plates spread apart. When you replace the oil, make sure to "not" use oil that says energy conserving in the lower half of the rating label. They are known to make motorcycle clutches slip. Alot of the 10/30 has this. Most 10/40 does not. Good luck.
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 351mustanger View Post
Your best bet is to take the clutch out and clean it up with some brake parts cleaner. Take some calipers and check the specs on the friction plates. Some of those have steel plates and some have aluminum between the friction plates. The aluminum ones wear quick if rode aggressively. The alumnum ones will be obvious if worn (they will look like a worn brake rotor). The secondary option would be to flush it out several times with kerosene. Put kerosene in the trans and kick away for awhile. Then drain and repeat a few times. Make sure to pull in the clutch lever while kicking so the plates spread apart. When you replace the oil, make sure to "not" use oil that says energy conserving in the lower half of the rating label. They are known to make motorcycle clutches slip. Alot of the 10/30 has this. Most 10/40 does not. Good luck.
Yeah, I actually already fixed that by putting a HD clutch kit in, now I have a carb issue.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:24 PM
351mustanger 351mustanger is offline
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Oh. Duh. I just noticed the original post. The rm 85's have round slide mikuni vm's. They seem to work good on those.
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:47 PM
351mustanger 351mustanger is offline
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You could try these two places for the parts you need.

http://www.sudco.com/

http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:38 PM
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I'm not looking to rebuild the carb since there is not a full kit offered anywhere, and the individual parts, orings, and gaskets I would need would be well over $150 from the manufacturer.

From what I read on carb sites is that the round slide is slightly less efficient, but has better mid throttle response than the flat slide, but the physical size is what concerns me. There isn't much room for the parts that came with the bike, let alone adding some bigger ones, and not to mention if there is a difference in the cable.
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