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Go Kart Engine and Torque Converter Tech Forum for discussing go kart engines and torque converters (Briggs, Tecumseh, Suburu, Comet etc) |
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#1
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Picture of front drive torque converter pieces
A lot of people don't realize what all parts are in the front of the torque converter. In particular, they don't realize that they come with a copper looking bronze bushing that the belt rides on. When this is gone, the belts get eaten up repeatedly. Here are a couple of pics showing the parts, and then what they look like when together (held in hand for the time being) where you can see where this bushing in place.
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#2
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hey i just joined are you sure that mine is a 30 series torque converter
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#3
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That pic is just of the front side. From the pictures you posted, I believe yours is the 30 series. Anything over 8hp is supposed to move up to the 40 series but I am yet to see one with a 9hp and a verter over a 30.
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#4
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make shure youcheck the bushing ever 20 hrs or so... just to make shure is not completly ate up... it will cause premature belt wear and breakage...
__________________
Talon DLX 150R K&N Air filter W/ wrap Prodigy Clutch 2000LB winch FMF Powercore Turbine 2 Maxxis Alltracks 22x11-10 Redneck snorkel 2 55watt PIAA lights |
#5
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I just looked at your pics again and they look every bit like the 30 series.
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#6
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That's actually the problem that many people get. I see it quite a bit where people state that it eats belts and they can't figure out why.
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#7
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oooooohhhhhh now i no
__________________
MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#8
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i had a techumseh with 5.5 that had a 2x3/4" drive shaft and i replaced it with a brand new motor(same kind) and the shaft is only 2x1/4" now my torque pullys dont line up and if i do line them up i only have about 1/4" of shaft available to put the outer converter on...is this ok???
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#9
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Been there done this. Let me ask, is it a yerf dog?
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#10
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P.S. Yes it is ok and very typical. Some carter machines that I have seen actually used a special made spacer for this very reason. I don't know where to get one but like I said, it is commong practice to be ok to use just that 1/4. The idea is that the bolt that holds it on, along with the keyway, will still make them function as one. What you DO have to do is before putting the belt on, put the drive pulley on as if you were putting it together and start. make sure you don't have a ton of wobble going on. If you do, seat the pulley better and try again. Then make note of what you had to do to get it nice and even while spinning.
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#11
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yea its a yerfdog and so far its working fine but while were on the topic i notice that it loses power when were crankin' around our dirt track some but when we get back on pavement and open it up it runs great,any idea why it would be doin this? remember the motor is still under its first 2 hours
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#12
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Did you put a clone 6.5hp engine on it? If not, what kind of engine?
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#13
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a clone
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#14
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ok, here's the thing about that. Those yerfs bolt pattern are a little different than the junk tecumseh that come off of them. Last one I had, I had to slot out the bolts better to get the proper distance so that the belt was correct. When the spacing between the engine and the jackshaft are at the correct distance, you should be able to pinch the belt and the clearance between the belt and the front of the bronze bushing should be apx a 1/4 inche. When I first did the swap, there was about an inch and a half which is why I had to modify in order to get the proper spacing of the engine to the jackshaft.
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#15
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ok im back now i need to know if my comet "driven" pully should be stationary or float on my jackshaft along side my techumseh power sport motor
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#16
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Depends how you look at it. Yerfs like yours use a large plate mount to be able to adjust the chain. When adjusting this, the jackshaft can slide forward or backward.
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#17
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let me be more specific,i saw a you tube video that said the driven pully should slide left or right on the jackshaft or "float" to be more specific...mine is stationary,i dont want to move my jackshaft at all, i just wanna make sure my driven pully isnt frozen on the shaft or if its ok that it doesnt float...im kinda green on this stuff,thanks for your help
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#18
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I see. No, it shouldn't move left and right. If it did, your chain would pop off all the time.
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#19
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ahh..why didnt i think of that...thanks alot
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#20
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Sure. note that I have seen plenty of jackshafts with some wear on them that will allow them to move slightly but it should be no more than that.
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#21
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a yerf??
__________________
MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#22
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#23
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oh that one , how do you em bed vids??
__________________
MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
#24
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when you do the reply, hit the advanced button and there is a you tube icon for inserting vids. In between the tags, put only the video ID (when looking at the vid, look at the URL. Copy and paste only what comes after v= between the tags.
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#25
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Thanks~!
__________________
MY HELIX -20' maxxis tires -1 1/2in.UNI air filter -gutted exaust -extended lugs -headlights -reflectors -my stickers -adjusted suspension -ground out hubs (to fit on the tires) helix 150 |
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