First Buggy Build...

[GDAccent]

Hey everyone, I've been on here a couple of months now and picking brains and asking questions. I started a thread "How much tubing is needed..." I am gonna reserve that thread for my single seater mini buggy. I should hope to have a start there soon.....But in the meantime, things are lining up that I can start on my 2 seater.

This will be powered by a 1980 Honda Accord 1751cc motor. Originally my father in law gave me the car a few years ago at the time I was gonna make it rally race ready for Rally X. And so the kids came along and the car sat. Fast forward now time to make a buggy/rail with it.

It looks worse than it is...But it runs after sitting for 5 years in the back woods.


A couple of weeks ago I had vacation time off and pulled the engine. The Honda has a sub frame and unibody. I just had to remove 8 bolts from under the body, and 6 nuts from the shocks. Since this is a front engine, will be putting it in the back and blocking the spindles to stay straight. So the engine and suspension came out all in one piece.



So I have never welded before and, well decided to start learning. My father in law pointed me to the welder. Said heres the rods, ground it here, wear the mask and practice a few runs. Don't get the metal too hot and your're good to go. Ok Great...

And so my first weld joint. I know, I know, looks bad but I will grind and fill when needed. Yes, I did grind down edges before i started. Yes the metal looks rusty but is FREE.


So now after researching and gather measurements, picking brains. I think I am ready to tackle the challenge to build my own first mini buggy.

I had some of the metal already cut for the single seater, but decided its time to start for the 2 seater. I am waiting on an engine for the single seat. The single seat buggy will look like a Piranha base style.

I sat down and mapped out a length and width and will have a cab length 52", and 40" at back frame and 32" at front frame. Now all 4 corners, rough as it looks are welded. I found out today I may be using a thick rod meant more for 1/2" metal. My father in law has a lot of rods and found some 1/8" 7013, and I think he has some 6013. not sure on numbers. But sounded like common rods.




I know the design I am wanting to make and since I am basing some of my measurements on some guess work, I feel I will have a decent sized buggy when done. Today after work made some more cuts and yesterday also got in a middle support.


I am gonna design a suspension box area, I guess I'll call it. length is 16" and set 10" apart.

These were just cut and setting there for measuring and will weld them in place soon after a couple of adjustments. I am going on a business trip and will be gone 10 days. Today Monday 7-30 starts my 3 week work week. Will be in Sturgis SD. I won't get a weekend off until the 18th. I cut out a couple more pieces tonight to have ready for welding when I get back.

I will add cross supports and the 2 pieces standing up are just a thought at this point at 12" there. A side rail will run back to the frame behind seats and should be 16".


My father in law was given not long ago a vw style sandrail. IT measures in length about 11.5 ft. When I am done with mine it will be right at 9-9.5 ft. Which seems a good size. I didn't want to have the nose sticking 3 feet past me feet like it does in the sandrail.

I plan on sticking in these seats...http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...70201/10002/-1

Recently purchased a black one for a smaller go cart and if fit nicely to my butt.

So thats all I have for now. I do have a design in mind, but I am not gonna post just so readers can see where I am going with this.

Thanks for looking, and I'll have some updates in a couple of weeks.

GDA

[metalstudman1]

Make sure you get seat covers and a slide adjuster with your seats. These seats are great but hard on your butt without the padded seat covers if you drive for a few hours non-stop!!
Welding- have you tried to drag the rod on some scrap steel to get the feel of the distance needed to keep an arc? your first posted weld appears to be too hot (voltage too high) Having the proper angle when arc welding (around 45 degree) gives you the opportunity to watch the penetration and speed of the rod- an 1/8"-1/4" gap at the rod end.
Another tip: Tack weld the frame work pieces- then before the final weld re-align & square! on large parts a temp diagonal brace tacked on till fully welded will help keep it aligned- heat distorts!!

[GDAccent]

That seat type, i hadn'T had any problems with it. We have one on the small go cart i bought it for. Feels to fit my frame (body) well. I will probably get pads or covers at some time. I will be getting slides aswell. Or take some off one of the other cars around the property. I am only gonna make the drivers side adjustable. for me all the way back will be fine. my wife will need to adjust when driving it.

Welding..lol. yup i am a newb. I think some probs are the dia. of rod i used to start with thick like 1/4". Since found smaller dia. i think it will make a difference. I have been using 45 angle. Otherwise i was getting alot of sticking rod to metal. I also couldnt see well tbrough the mask. condensation started blocking. The clear lens is old and well used. I took it out and had some plexi to make a new one. Much clearer now and can actually see something.

So when i get back from my trip I will be fresh on some knowledge. Will try to read up or watch some youtube vids on welding while i am gone. I wish i was further along but research is the process.

GDA

[metalstudman1]

Good luck @ Sturgis

[GDAccent]

Since i am using this 1½" square tube. I have enough to make the A arms as well. So question..What dia. of round tube should i use when i make the hinge part to frame? I plan on using ½" grade 8 bolts and curious with tube size and bushing type i will need. What is recommended?

[x-bird]

Rather than go that route to attach the a-arms to the frame, why not install heims in the ends of them. no bushings to monkey with and all you'd need to do would be to weld the heim bungs in the ends of the tubing and put two mount tabs per heim on the frame. You would need a short piece of round tube to fit into the square tube, then the bungs.

[GDAccent]

yeah. ok. i remember seeing some applications like that. excuse me asking but what are "Bungs" is that like a bushing the Heims go into? There is an ACE hardware here that i believe have these Heims. Or should i rather purchase online from a rep. place? Hoping they dont cost too much.

Since i want to use the ½" grade 8 bolts. what would demensions of Heim u would need and how long?

ThX,

GDA

[x-bird]

remember the blue buggy in your "how much tubing" thread? that one has a similar type of setup on the front arms i'm referring to. You would get a heim with a 1/2 ball bore, length is usually around 1.5 inches of threaded area. the bung is basically a thick tube internally threaded to accept the heim.

[GDAccent]

Thats right !! Cools. thanks for reminding me that buggy had that set up. Are those Heims expensive? I will check around and see what i can find. And are those also in Grades as well?

ThX,

GDA

[metalstudman1]

Heims are usually cheaper than ball joints but a little more than bushings- Here's a link to what you'd be looking for to use on the end of the A-arms instead of bushings:
http://stores.ebay.com/QS-Components...=p4634.c0.m322
Heims will probably last longer than a bushing and allow for adjustment where the bushing doesn't. Searching the combo sets & specifications and accessories should give you an idea of the cost.
These do have a grade per lbs. most of the economy are plenty strong enough for your purposes.

[GDAccent]

Hey Everyone !! I am back from my Sturgis business trip. So i am ready to get back to work on the buggy. I have been itching all last week while away. We did well with orders for our boots. But now its Buggy time. I will try to get some work done on it this weekend and post some updates.