Yerf Dog Spindle , Heim , Reverse Motor Question

[skiprec]

New member , first mini buggy Yerf Dog 3209 , and my head is about to explode . So I figured it's time to ask . Probably spent 2 full weekends researching . I need to replace ball joints , so I thought it would be best to do the Heim replacement CKau recommeds . He bought his on Ebay but the link is broken as happens when item expires . Anyone know who the seller on Ebay would be ? I believe they are 3/8 ? Now , if I do the Heim conversion , would/could I use an ATV spindle ? Or , are the Yerf's spindles ok if beefed up ( as I have seen on a thread here ) ? If beefing up the Yerf Spindle I would go with the 3/4 axle that is mentioned .
One last question , I've spent a LOT of time looking , but have not found pictures of a starter motor reverse setup for the Yerf , or GY6 for that matter.
Thanks in advance !

[metalstudman1]

I think the spindles are plenty good beefed up- to use an ATV spindle you'll need to be creative as they won't just have a hole for a bolt thru the Heim.(use 1/2" Heims)There's probably a reason why you haven't found any pics of a starter reverse on a GY6- I think that would be a very tough set-up (no real Neutral) and since you can buy an external reverse to add onto the GY6 not very practical.

[skiprec]

Thanks Metalstudman BTW I was wondering on your ATV Project , was there a reason you didn't just swap the whole drive train into the buggy , driveshaft and all ? The reason I ask is I have a donor Honda 250es , I was thinking of putting into the Yerf . I thought the whole drive line , engine , driveshaft and dif could go into the Yerf as a unit . Any problems , seen it done ? So 1/2 Heims , know who the seller on Ebay or a good place to buy ? Thanks again !

[ckau]

The heims are 1/2x20 thread. Look for American Star on e-bay. Get the matching bungs as well if you don't have machine lathe capabilities. It will save you a lot of trouble. The stock spindles could be o-k for now. Get the heims set up first, then beef the spindles if you find it neccesary.

[ckau]

Ooops! told you wrong! here's the link to the heims
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-2-x...item563fbb096b

[metalstudman1]

I'd loved to have used the shaft drive set-up and rear diff. The reasoning for not using the rear set-up was simple! "width".The width on the Bigred hubs was around 26"-30" wide, way too narrow for most buggies.

[skiprec]

Thanks again guys ! So glad you responded CKau , I'll be following your tutorial step by step . You mention in hindsight you'd do less than 15 degrees . Can you give me a number ? Just out of curiosity what do you use to measure your degrees ? Thanks Again , I'll be getting those Heims today .

[ckau]

I'll probably do 12 or 13 degrees on my next one. Which means the a-arms won't have as much drop before the heim binds. it will basicly move the travel range up.That puts it more into the range of the shock travel. the total distance of the arch still exceeds the range of any front shock that will fit in the stock mounting points
setting up the measurments is easy if you have a drill press. the bit is at 90 Degrees , simply tilt the the table at 13 degrees. I use a simple protractor to get the correct angle.

[metalstudman1]

I know you asked Ckau- The heims ultimately need to be level with the ground when everything is all back together at a stand still. (the simpleman method!!!) I just mocked up my frontend with the shocks and spindles I was going to use and marked one of the A-arm's and copied the angle from there.NOTE: I don't have Heims yet but it works the same for the tabs when using the HD ball joints.

[skiprec]

Thanks again guys ,Ckau is that a hole saw you're using ? I tried blowing up the photo best I could , but still couldn't tell .

[ckau]

Originally Posted by metalstudman1

I know you asked Ckau- The heims ultimately need to be level with the ground when everything is all back together at a stand still. (the simpleman method!!!)

thats true but with the shocks used on these things,the shock is fully extended at stand still. There's hardly any compression with the weight of a driver. so the heim has to be set at an angle that equals almost full bind at bottom otherwise you loose part of the movement range in the heim. you have to allow full movement of the heim as the shock compresses. a full custom shock with a 40/60 droop would work perfect for setting the heims at a static level angle. I got the angle with the shock in place then setting the heim angle to allow full movemnt upwards. The set up I have now shows a ever so slight possible binding of the heim at full compression, thats why I suggest a little less angle on the heims.
Skiprec- that is a bi-metal 1" hole saw in the press