Hammerhead 250 rebuild need help

[jp80]

Just bought a weathered HH 250 and after unloading at home realized it needs a lot of work. Got it started but after having to weld the shift lever back in place and a lot of wd40 got it to shift. Once I had it started and shifted into drive it made a loud clanking sound and engine died. I've noticed the clutch is kinda rusted and belt is extremely loose, so loose it hits the air filter while in idle. Please help me with your input.

[300cpilot]

Either that is the wrong belt or the clutch spring is broken. Was the cover missing that was over the belt? Tom & Metal would know for sure.

[jp80]

Yes and the previous owner didn't know much about it since her kids would ride it and she never messed with it

[BuggyMaster]

ya kids will abuse them quite a bit. Poor thing looks like it lived outside for quite some time.

[metalstudman1]

Definitely have a clutch issue- the clutch should be closed where the belt is tight between the sheaves/pulleys all the way at the top of them. It's possible the shaft is too rusted to let it close or as 300cpilot says the main spring is broken or in a bind.

[300cpilot]

How much did you pay for it, if you do not mind me asking?

[jp80]

Yeah it lived outside for several months and I think they were lying about that. Once its up and running I plan on doing a complete breakdown and rewelding some panels. I figure even after having to do all that it was still a deal at $750. All the electronics work from what I have tested. Do ya'll think the bad clutch would be the reason why it makes a loud noice when I shift into drive?

[jp80]

I will try to open up the clutch and post some pics to hopefully get some help from you guys. I am new to the this type of buggy, I've had several manco's before. Any help you guys provide will be greatly appreciated.

[jp80]

Where would be a good place to get replacement clutch and or parts for it?

[300cpilot]

SYC Power Sports, the sponsor at the top of the page. I bought all of my buggy parts through him. I have a clutch for this that is real cheap, it is a stock unit, with a snag, the nut came off of it and ruined the threads so I welded it together. Works fine, but you can not change anything on it now. I ran it for a couple of months while I waited for a replacement. I would not sell it to you for a full time replacement, just to use until you get a new one.

I would not run it until you get the clutch figured out.

I just went and looked at a almost new HH250 GTS and they wanted $4199.00 for it so $750 is a good deal. Even if you sink a grand into it you will be money ahead.

[jp80]

Let me know what you want for it, send me a pm 300. Is there any kinda of maintenance I can do to the clutch and driven

[EJ Mac]

I have a motor for sale here that would make that Hammerhead absolutely scream. http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2928 An almost identical motor in one took 1st place in the 250cc drags at the 2011 Buggy Bash.

[SYCARMS]

The clutch pulley is deffinately stuck open. It needs to be disassembled cleaned and greased under the sleeve, change out your springs and by all means it does need the cover. The motor EJ is selling is a killer engine for the price.

[jp80]

Thanks sycarms, what kind of grease should I use and any suggestion on where to find a cover

[SYCARMS]

I use Valvoline Moly Lithium wheel bearing grease. When you disassemble the clutch to seperate the pulley you will need to remove the sleeve the torque spring slips over. Under the sleeve will be 3 or 4 pins that have to be removed in order to seperate. You will want to grease this area liberally but not too liberal since you don't want any grease to ooz out and get on the clutch shoes and drum. I can get the covers but they as I remember are not cheap. I can price it Monday for you if you like. Also if you would like you can e-mail me your phone number along with a good time to call and I will call you with a quote and answer any other questions you might have. <tom@sycpowersports.com>

[jp80]

So I figured out why clutch wasn't working properly apparently previous owners removed the clutch spring. I've got the clutch bell removed but am having trouble getting the rest of it off any suggestions? The driven closest to the clutch is off but I can't get the other driven off.

[SYCARMS]

Not sure if I understand you correctly. Once the drum is removed there will be a 1 1/2" nut to remove which will allow for the clutch itself to be removed.Behind the clutch is where the torque spring should be. Once the torque spring is removed there is a sleeve the spring sat over which has to be removed then the pins and the 2 halves will seperate.

[jp80]

Here are some pics of the part of the clutch I can't remove.

[SYCARMS]

It should just slide off the shaft.

[jp80]

Yeah thats what I thought but its very stuck I've even tried using the claw of a hammer against the tranny with no luck. Just wanted to make sure there wasn't some bolt or pin somewhere holding it in. Let me know if you have any suggestions on how to get it off.

[metalstudman1]

With the rust I see it looks like you need to liberally spray some penetrating oil to help dissolve the rust on the shaft. Sometimes striking the end of the shaft will break it free (put a piece of wood or like item to avoid mushrooming it)

[SYCARMS]

Get some PB Blaster or better yet if available some Krowl oil. Spray the outer end of shaft also try to get some at the front end through the pin holes. Let it set ovetnight. If it still won't pull off try using 2 prybars on opposite ends as you pry side to side. Be careful not to pry too hard to where you bend the pulley. Those pulleys seem pretty stout and should take a fair amount of prying. Prying from one side will put it in a bind this is why you alternately pry opposite each other, also changing position of the bars every so often.

[jp80]

Due to the rust I am going to have to remove the long tubing from the center of the frame. These braces within them also hold the water lines for the small radiator in the front of the kart. My question is do you guys thing it would be wise to completely remove the small radiator and just loop the water lines near the engine area or radiator. Let me know what you think I should do.

[jp80]

Here's a pic of the tubing braces I'm talking about

[SYCARMS]

Not sure what your asking, but if it is to eliminate the small Radiator I wouldn't. If you do you will need the same total capacity of both radiators which means one larger radiator then the other sticking point is where they have the larger radiator mounted. It does not get much air flow and what it gets is off the hot engine. This is why they have the second smaller radiator from what I've been told. I think it is easier and cheaper to keep what you have.

TOM

[metalstudman1]

Are the stock radiator lines rubber run through the metal tubing? I'm all about the radiator being up front for max. cooling and having sight of an over-heating system.

[x-bird]

poor thing--I'm having mini shark flashbacks! they seem to like to run things through the bottom tubes on the HH's. I'd follow metal and tom's advice and keep the small rad. You could mount it up top, or keep the front location, but i'd consider putting the water lines through some heat rated pvc on the floor rather than the frame tubes.

[SYCARMS]

Kinda like the old Kinroads, HH's, and Carters that run the wiring harness thru the frame. After years of water settling in the frame submerging the harness from the holes being on top side and no gromett to seal, the wires corrode and all kinda problems pop up.

[jp80]

Yeah the lines run throught the metal tubing. I'm thinking about just cutting and replacing the tubing with some square tubing instead since it would be easier to work with. At least thats the experience I've had. Also I thought about maybe running the lines to the front small radiator elsewhere but can't think of anywhere else that would work without being in the way. THanks for the suggestions.

[jp80]

Also I will need to replace the lines any suggestions on where to find them?

[x-bird]

any auto parts store should have heater hose that you can get cut to length that would work, depends on whether there's some goofy metric fitting on the end ....

[metalstudman1]

I went to Napa and bought hydraulic hose instead of regular heater/radiator hose because it was a much tougher rubber and not as thick - Take your fittings with you no mattter where you buy it to test the fit. Lowes sells pvc barbed fittings and connectors (plumbing & electrical type).