DN150 electrical fix need help

[Jagfist]

I got the kart in april ,it would not fire. I replaced ignition key switch after fixing wires that melted in front harness.then replaced the rectifier, CDI, Magneto / stator, and master cylinder
took reading from all with DMM
when all was assembled and tested good it had spark fir about 45 seconds but the volts tested out the back of cdi going to coil visibly went from 34vac to 1.3 volts
I still don't know if my brake pedal needs depressed as I am getting right numbers at key cranking i think from all but trigger wire
sometimes it does not measure on my DMM
ANY IDEAS?
stator-34vac @ crank
trigger-.1 @ crank
It keeps blowing cdi
if I put new one one it has good blue spark for about 10 seconds

[zman007007]

sounds like you have one heck of a short somewhere. remove all and any wire coverings so you can make sure none are melted together. separate all your wires in other words.

[Jagfist]

I will open all harnesses and wiring up again on front where original short was found I only repaired what was visible but did not do full wire check on all
but yeah figured It must be short on something when starting with switch
I unhooked front harness but damage to cdi was already done
wonder why I am not blowing fuse though?
New 15 amp in starter relay line new battery too
these newer style karts should come with plug in code readers like cars to figure which modules are bad or where shorts are occuring

[x-bird]

make sure you're getting the right cdi. ac vs dc. Sometimes they'll blow without popping the fuse if you have the wrong one in.

[Jagfist]

I Matched it to original
DC is most of time a little bigger unit but yes ac fired from magneto according to diagram for this VIN CODED MOTOR

[Jagfist]

Have not tried with good cdi while front harness unplugged seems costly test if wrong
I have good knowledge of ac fired system but just really need to know if I accidentally got the plugs for electronic choke and starter relay plugs turned around backwards cause they are same harness plug if it would still be able to start from the key but that the electronic choke would put constant 12v power rather than intermittent would it cause a short in my cdi because of it being connected all the time not just when the key is on start I only say this because all the other wiring seem to be correct and already had the rear harness apart and rewrapped
front had short and I thought I fixed the melt but to be honest I did not trace all burned wires to harness just to ignition

[SYCARMS]

The choke should only supply voltage with the ignition switch on. The choke does not work intermittently, there is a resistor in the electrical box that will cut the voltage to about 9v. This is to slow the rate so that the needle does not block circuit prior to engine being warm. It sounds as if there are some wires crossed if getting power to choke with ignition off. The choke is wired to the accy side of switch.

[Jagfist]

yeah Im not looking forward to having a dig back into that front wiring harness after having already ripped apart just little of it and repaired it and then take it all back up guess I have too much confidence in my own work not very scientific on my part. Lol
I will tear into it today and report back what I found
its important to document how I found just in case someone else has sane issue