Spiderbox build log

[Jtsarby]

I purchased a spiderbox last week for my boys. I can't leave well enough alone. I tend to take everything apart any put it back to my satisfaction. Being my first kart, I wanted to keep track of my build. Here are the details that I know of.

The guy I purchased it from bought it and did a few upgrades. He was asking $400. I got it down to $250. The engine would turn over just fine but he could not get it to start. That's how I got it down from $400 to $250.

Here is what it looked like when I got it home.



This is what he added.
New carb with oversized jets
New racing Cdi
New plug and coil wire
New spindles and tie rod ends

It has no air filter and he drilled out the muffler (why?).
It is missing a crossbar on the brush guard

I drained the oil and gear box fluid. The oil was dark but fine. The gear box fluid was a bit milky.

Here are my plans for now.
Replace rear tires. (Done)
Order new cooling shrouds
Order Uni filter
Order new electrical box and cover
Order new muffler
Order new rack and pinion boots
This will be a project for me and my boys to do.

If you see anything you would add or change, please let me know.

[OLDKID]

Have bought two E box coves for two different Buggies , think like $16-$17 apiece plus shipping . Both cracked and flew down the trail never to be seen again . Third Spiderbox got a rectangular Tupperware container and some zip ties , still there . There's a couple threads here where guys relocated and built better boxes within the body out of harms way and off the bouncy ride of the engine cradle . See'n spidles were replaced I'm assuming better balljoints were used ( originals were troublesome leading to a recall ) .

[Jtsarby]

I thought about making one.

[OLDKID]

The original box is just a tiny tray with the components crammed on top of it with rubber mounts ( tab into slot ) that usually dry rot and spit out the parts I'm sure you've noticed every rubber part on your buggy is shot . New cover is hard to mount as box is full and usually ( always) breaks .
Somebody will chime in , a few active members here that have already posted their box mod.

[OLDKID]

Oh , And Welcome To The Club .

[Jtsarby]

Why would he have drilled the muffler?

[OLDKID]

Probably trying to let it breathe better ( exhale ) reduce back pressure . Theirs right ways and wrong ways to accomplish that . SYCARMS just touched on that in a very recent post , and layed out the proper procedure , search the threads , I mean like a week or so ago .

[Jtsarby]

Something else I just thought of. He disconnected the electric choke. Although new he said they were trash. Is this correct? Is there a better choke option?

[OLDKID]

Once again that topic has been discussed many , many times here . You'll find lots of info . Most are fussy on a cold start and you need it . Not a choke , but a fuel enriching circuit , that when key/switch is off it's in detent mode , plunger retracted allowing extra fuel in the circuit . Ignition on " choke " plunger extends within a minute or two and blocks port -- choke off , no more extra fuel . Easy worthwhile repair ... plugged fuel circuit , bad " choke valve " , or not getting current ( wiring , ballast resister ) Time to Search Forum .

[OLDKID]

Unplugging won't help you , if the plunger is stuck in the up position .... Choke will always be On .... Will run rich , if plunger is stuck in the down position .... No choke .... Hard to start .

[ModdedMotor212]

Speaking of the "plunger".. CarsAndCameras on youtube had theirs fail. They didn't know why it wouldnt start after it was sitting for a while. They fixed the no-start issue by removing that plunger and it started RIGHT UP.

Either try that first, replace the carburetor gaskets if needed, or find out just how "over sized" the jets really are and reduce size if needed.

[Jtsarby]

I ordered a few parts from buggy depot on Thursday and amazingly they arrived today. I ordered a new exhaust, uni filter, heavy duty ball joints, and a gasket set. I was going to install the ball joints tonight but ran into a problem. Here is a picture of the stock ball joints. It has a retainer clip holding the joint in. I can't get my spring clip pliers into the gap. Any advice?


On another note, I sanded and repainted my swing arm. Here is a pic. I'm going to nickname the cart money pit.

[Jtsarby]

One more thing. I drain the gearbox fluid and it was quite milky. Fearing the worst, I removed the mission cover expecting to see rusted bearings. To my delight everything was in excellent condition. I'm sure it wouldn't stay that way long with the moisture in the fluid. My only problem now is removing the old gasket from the cover to install the new one.

[ckau]

Originally Posted by Jtsarby

One more thing. I drain the gearbox fluid and it was quite milky. Fearing the worst, I removed the mission cover expecting to see rusted bearings. To my delight everything was in excellent condition. I'm sure it wouldn't stay that way long with the moisture in the fluid. My only problem now is removing the old gasket from the cover to install the new one.

This is about the only way moisture can get into the gear box. It's a vent line on the top venting to atmosphere. As long as that hose is in good shape, as well with the rubber gasket in the case, not cracked, pinched or clogged, and routed so water can't back up into the gear box there won't be a moisture problem. The interior has to be able to breath to outside

[jmansracerocket]

you really should have beefed up the frame while you had it apart before paint. As far taking the ball joints out its easy just take a small flat head screw driver wedge it in between the gap and turn it to pry it some and take another flat head and wedge it in behind the clip and pry her out.

[Jtsarby]

Jman. How do I beef up the frame? It's not too late. I got the ball joints out. I took a small pick and got under the clip.

[jmansracerocket]

The rear upper engine mount area is very weak. The tubing is thin on the rear swing arm and they always seem to stress crack. Ckau, xlint, tkeagle, and myself all have beefed up the rear swing arm. So you can look up any of our yerfs. I took a flat square piece of steel and layed it across the top and welded it. Then I took a round bar and welded it from one end to the other at the rear bottom side of the swing arm for more horizontal strength. If your tail riding I highly recommend it.

[Jtsarby]

Did a bit more work today.
Painted the cvt cover and starter. I would like to paint the other side of the case but it would be too much work.


Also mounted the swing arm after painting.


Is there any way to move this thread to the Mini Buggy area?

[OLDKID]

Nice Job , Look'n Good . May you reap the rewards of your effort ! ( In other words it better run as good as it looks ... ) . I'm not computer savy , maybe you should P.M. BUGGYMASTER as far as relocating thread , Speaking for myself , I wouldn't worry too much about it / Pretty tight knit community here , I think about every posting get's read regardless what heading it's under , But then again that's just me . Anywho Nice Job , Good Luck , See Ya .

[Parkiespop]

Looking good!

[Jtsarby]

I purchased the BD heavy duty ball joints. I noticed they are angled. How should they be installed. What direction should the joint tilt?

[OLDKID]

They're omni directional , will find they're own home/angle . Just make sure you mount them all corresponding with each other . Example : If the rubber boot is pointing up , mount all of them pointing up . Not one up and one down .

[Jtsarby]

Thanks!!!

[Jtsarby]

During the de-construction of my spider box I took quite a few pictures to make sure I knew how to route all the wires and cables correctly when I put it back together. Unfortunately I cannot access those pictures. If anyone has pictures of their spider box showing how things are routed I would appreciated if you could post them.

[Jtsarby]

I got it worked out and got her running this weekend. The solenoid is shot so I need to buy a new one. I did a few laps around the yard and it stalled out. Almost like it was out of gas but it wasn't. I experienced the horrible turning radius. I need to cut a few more teeth in the R&P. I also want to do the BD front wheel and tire upgrade but I have uneven a-arms. From what I understand, in order to upgrade, I have to get the even spindles and a-arms.

[OLDKID]

Ask B.D. , I think you can use their wheel/hub kit , but not their lift kit , shocks hit shorter top arms . It's just the even/third Gen. Heavy Duty spindles are stronger , beefier , to go along with the leverage of the taller tire .

[Jtsarby]

Cleaned and replaced the carb. Fired right up and ran like a scalded dog. It was gummed up beyond anything I have ever seen.