Steering way to far?

[Tionestajeeper]

Trying to get the front end of a crossfire set up right. Steering seems to steer to far the front wheels go almost sideways. So for that it just plows in the dirt instead of rolling on threw. How can I limit the steering as to not have it go so far. Bump stops or something I'm missing?

[xlint89]

Pictures might help

[Tionestajeeper]

Will get some photos tomorow heavy hail storm now.

[SLESTAK75]

What happens if you dont turn the wheel as far?? Do the wheels just get thrown into that position by the force of the turn??

[Miamieddie]

Wow you must have a real good turning radius if your going slow... I wish my buggy had a better turning then it has now. All you have to do is not turn it so far to where it starts to dig that's all...on tight situations I have to use foward and reverse often to get my buggy turned around tight areas that is.. I wish I had your so called problem..

[ckau]

If your steering is working good and you're biggest problem is plowing, then focus on a front tire with better grip. The Kenda Front Max is one of the best turning tire you can find. You'll never cure the problem totally because of the solid rear axle but a front tire with good lateral bite make a huge improvement .

[Tionestajeeper]

You got it slestak75 once you turn to a certain point they seem to just go all the way instantly. Mainly on the left turn. Had to back up to get it to straiten out. Will try for picture tonight. Could use new tires but it doesn't seem to do it with a right turn. Front alignment looks ok but looks can be off..

[SLESTAK75]

It sounds like alignment. Sounds like the steering box is not adjusted right. Allowing more travel to the left and less to the right. Check out the thread " Alot to be said about proper alignment"

[Miamieddie]

If that's the case yes that's dangerous its probably needs alignment as slestack75 mentioned. Count the threads on the right side and make it the same on the left. Start there and see if that helps.

[Tionestajeeper]

got it a bit closer just with an adjustment of the tie rod and heim joint on one side but still not right. thinking on taking it all out and starting from scratch and measure everything. eyeballing just isn't cutting it. Yea new tires would probably help to..
(added photos to album)

[x-bird]

someone did the rack modification to it (added teeth) with a couple too many and no steering bump stop. Are you on the gulf coast of Fla.?

[Miamieddie]

Yup listen to xbird he knows about these steering machanisms. He's explained it on another website.(confusing) to me.tooo many moving parts .. don't ride it like that you'll roll it resulting injury.

[Tionestajeeper]

Sorry x-bird I am up in PA. Buggy came from Ohio going to take it all apart to try to figure what the previous owner did. Nothing seems to be even and still center. So starting from scratch will be my best option. Even all the heim joints are set different. Some all the way in and some everywhere in between. I think I should start evening the upper and lower arms first and then figuring if the rack is stock or flawed. How much camber should there be and is about 1/4" or less toe in ok?

[x-bird]

Reason i asked about the location is that looks a lot like a Florida member's crossfire--but a lot of people do the rack mod.

As was mentioned in another thread, 0 to 1/8th toe is good. you want a little bit of toe in to prevent toe-out from occurring as things wear and deflect. I'd disconnect the steering rods, get your a-arms set correctly with the heims, then center the steering wheel and re-attach the rods with the tires dead ahead or toed in a touch.

Your rack looks like it has enough teeth to allow the steering rod at the arm pivot to get pulled into a nearly straight line with the upper a-arm ball joint. when that happens it can deflect rearwards--really bad situation --- imagine hyper-extending your knee ... aside from putting a new rack in (then you'll be complaining about not enough turning radius) you could weld a stop tab in somewhere or open up the rack and put a filler weld in the last tooth on each side.

to check your camber, jack up the front, pull the shocks and run the suspension through it's full range up and down. watch how the camber changes as you cycle it. camber really comes down to riding style and terrain. i like none to a little cambered in up top. (i always forget which is pos or neg ...)

I'd open the rack up anyway just to make sure 'ol X is correct and it isn't some other issue with the geometry. You shouldn't need to replace it unless the added teeth (if any) are in really bad shape.


--also ...ditto CKAU ... you need front meats big time. kendas are excellent, i'm running kenda dominators