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  #1  
Old 10-15-2009, 08:40 PM
Ryanscat Ryanscat is offline
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Default Carbide rear brake problem

Took the buggy out after not riding it for awhile and discovered the rear brake wasn't grabbing. I put new pads in and got it to grab a little but you can turn the rear wheels by hand with the pedal mashed. I noticed it seems to be pushing from one side meaning that when you hit the brakes the disc flexes over to one side. Any ideas?
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  #2  
Old 10-15-2009, 10:19 PM
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I'm trying to remember how my carbide was setup.

How's the pedal feel on it? Mushy or normal?

Any problems when swapping the pads?
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:40 PM
Krusekontrol Krusekontrol is offline
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Did you clean (everything) and bleed them? If you did already try to adjust the parking break bolt to close the gap.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:08 AM
Ryanscat Ryanscat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuggyMaster View Post
I'm trying to remember how my carbide was setup.

How's the pedal feel on it? Mushy or normal?

Any problems when swapping the pads?
I had trouble getting air out of the line but the pedal never felt mushy. No problems swapping pads but the caliper was packed with mud, had to remove and clean up but I didn't take it apart.
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Old 10-16-2009, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krusekontrol View Post
Did you clean (everything) and bleed them? If you did already try to adjust the parking break bolt to close the gap.
c;eamed amd bled but I didn't dissassemble the caliper, thinking I might need to now. How does adjusdting the parking brake bolt help? Bring the pads closer or something?
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:48 AM
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yes, it will push the piston out more and the pads will be closer to the rotor
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:32 AM
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Do you feel that you got all the air out? The reason i ask is in the event that it is not out, you'd get the feeling that the brake is solid but only because the fronts are doing their job but the rear still has some in it which keeps it from getting the full effect.
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Old 10-16-2009, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuggyMaster View Post
Do you feel that you got all the air out? The reason i ask is in the event that it is not out, you'd get the feeling that the brake is solid but only because the fronts are doing their job but the rear still has some in it which keeps it from getting the full effect.
I had a very hard time with that. I couldn't get any fluid at all to come out the rear bleed scre at first and I eventually opened all 3 bleed screws and put a hose on each that ran into a bottle of brake fluid. That let me get a full stroke of the pedal and eventually got the rear caliper moving. It might still have air trapped in the line somewhere.
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Old 10-16-2009, 01:12 PM
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if there is air in the lines it can be a pain to get them bleed, I use a vacumn style bleeder
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
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if there is air in the lines it can be a pain to get them bleed, I use a vacumn style bleeder
Where did you get the bleeder and how much? I searched advanced auto website and couldn't find one.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:12 PM
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the helix brakes are just 100% fine. i get lots of nice comments on them lol, also on the carbide there is front brakes if im correct and those are just fine? i had a problem on my old doodlebug mini bike and i just adjusted them with a wrench and now its fine.
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Old 10-16-2009, 02:17 PM
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I got mine from napa. www.napaonline.com I think thats the websight
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2009, 02:22 PM
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Does the carbid have a fork style mastercylinder set up? What i mean is does it use one master cylinder and then two driving rods, one for the front brakes and one for the rear? That's how the GTR was setup and the way to bleed them was to take out the tuning fork and pump the rear brake by hand using a screwdriver or something. That way you are just bleeding the rear brakes and get a full stroke. Was a big pain to deal with until I tried that. The front brakes were perfectly pumped up so I could never get a full stroke to bleed the rears.
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Old 10-16-2009, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuggyMaster View Post
Does the carbid have a fork style mastercylinder set up? What i mean is does it use one master cylinder and then two driving rods, one for the front brakes and one for the rear? That's how the GTR was setup and the way to bleed them was to take out the tuning fork and pump the rear brake by hand using a screwdriver or something. That way you are just bleeding the rear brakes and get a full stroke. Was a big pain to deal with until I tried that. The front brakes were perfectly pumped up so I could never get a full stroke to bleed the rears.
It's just got one master cylinder and looks like what you are talking about. I wonder if I were to take one of the rods loose from the back of the pedal if it would do the same thing? The weather has been so crappy around here I haven't had a chance to try.
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  #15  
Old 10-16-2009, 04:11 PM
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Ok, that's what i mean and that's likely what the prob is. You can't get a full stroke due to the fronts being fine. Take the rod out for the rear and pump it by hand for the bleeding process. We had one hell of a time with this on the GTR till we did it like that.
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:52 PM
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Must be a problem with the Carbides I noticed my rear brakes werent working yesterday.Havent looked into it yet but neither ehe parking brake or the pedal is working!
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  #17  
Old 10-17-2009, 10:54 AM
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  #18  
Old 10-17-2009, 11:15 PM
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HaHa
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Old 10-18-2009, 10:26 AM
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My s#@$ is all messed up not sure why.Went mudding in a creek the water was 6-18 inches deep.Ran fine climbed the walls of the creek bed like a champ they were maybe 8 feet tall and anywhere from 55-65 degree incline.The next day went out to drive and noticed the brakes werent working and now when you put it in forward gear you can floor it and it barely moves for 6 or 7 feet then jerks the heck out of ya then starts going fast.No idea whats wrong!Gonna check belt today.
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136 Main Jet
Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch
Dr. Pulley Variator
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One 55w Reverse Light
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  #20  
Old 10-18-2009, 06:54 PM
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sounds like water in the belt case maybe?
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