Newbie questions 150cc HH

[plee911]

Ok so posting here because I work a lot and my work comp lets me access this site but not the other one I have been on the most.
Here is a basic run down
Buggy is a 2005 HH twister 150
It was used and abused by the PO
I have been slowly working to bring her back to life.
She went from dead in the water with no spark to running pretty solid
Still have a lot of work to do to get her back where she should be but I have a few questions that I have not been able to find good answers to. I am fairly handy but I am new to these buggies and don't understand some things so please be understanding

1 weird cut out when the buggy is sitting at idle. When the buggy is sitting still at idle if I grab the roll cage or frame and shake the buggy a little it will bog and act like its gonna die. Weird thing is I have run it pretty good since getting it to start and run and even jumped it over a small hill a couple of times and didn't notice this behavior any other time but it does it every time if it is sitting still at idle.

2 Battery size. I have seen that the 7 amp hour batteries are pretty standard for these but I would like to put something a little bigger/better in the buggy.
not planning to run a ton of extra stuff will be changing to LED lights and want to add a 12" LED light bar and maybe a wench all connected to the battery not run by the charging system. Im not looking for a $200 battery just an idea of good sizes with out going huge or super expensive. Was thinking AGM battery so no liquid to spill but not as expensive as the lithium batteries plus I don't have to by a special charger to charge AGM batteries. (all wiring on this buggy is crap butchered/sun damage so I am working on building a complete new wire harness for it to include new electrical box that's why everything will be ran direct to the battery with switches. charging system will only be powering CDI and rectifier and charging the battery)

3 the 39T sprocket. I see a lot of mentions of going to the 39T sprocket but not seeing a lot explaining how to go about doing the swap. how involved is this and does the change in gearing justify the work?

4 Head porting and port matching.
Everyone says this is a great thing to do but I can not find good instructions on how to go about doing this. If anyone has a good breakdown on how to do it or even better a video on how to do it that would be super helpful. I have never done anything like it and the few things I have found that talk about how to do it left me more confused than when I started.

5 Gear oil change. What bolts do I take out to drain and refill (finding a lot of conflicting info) What gear oil and how much should I use. (Going off what is in it would be bad idea cant count on it having the right amount in it from PO)

Added pics to how the sorry state she was in when I brought her home.

[neo71665]

Most everybody is members on both forums.

1. I'm gonna say its a short. The ground system on these are soldered and known to be problems. Something else is to look at the rubber on the intake. Chinese rubber is subpar at best and they are known to crack.

2. You can't put too big of a battery or it will overload the charging system. I run a lawnmower battery on mine. You can pick them up for around $20. It is bigger than the tiny one that it came for and I built a new battery box for it.

3. it's the sprocket on the rear axle. You can look at it and see everything you have to remove to get the old one off. I'd suggest oiling everything down well before you plan on trying to slide everything off the axle. Things like to rust weld back there.

4. Without a flow bench you can't tell if you are doing any good or making them flow worse. Just hogging the ports out bigger does not always mean its better. I'd suggest just cleaning up the rough casting in the ports and making the ports match the gasket. Grind out what you have to and blend it in about 1 inch down the port. On the intake track you want the surface finish a bit rough but the exhaust is where polishing it is good.

5. I use 75w90 synthetic, brand choice and normal/synthetic is personal preference.

2nd post in this thread has pics and pretty much nails gear oil change on a gy6
http://49ccscoot.proboards.com/threa...gearbox-change


I think I told ya over there when I got my buggy it was pretty much in the same shape as yours. I ended up ordering all new electrical stuff (cdi, starter relay, etc) and pulling the entire harness out and going over it with a fine tooth comb. I resoldered all the joints and added new heat shrink to them. I also replaced the plastic connectors because mine were brittle and breaking if you looked at them. You can find the connectors cheap on ebay but they ship on the slow boat from china. I was lucky my brakes worked fine but I did replace the pads. Right now I'm replacing all the bearings and bushings. The bearings I'm changing them out with quality ones. The bushings I'm using urethane, most of which I'm having to custom make.

Got mine cheap as a runner but has turned into a frame off resto. Wouldn't have been so bad if I knew it going in but what I get for sending my brother to check it out.

[plee911]

Thanks for the info.
If it's a short then the rewire I'm doing should sort it out. I'm going in with all new 14 ga wire and new connectors on everything. 12 ga for the primary hot from battery to the new front electrical j box and back electrical jbox like you recommended.Got the china connectors now but will be upgrading all of them to good water proof ones. All new grounds and ground straps going in as well

Battery what's the amp hour rating on the ones you use or what's the highest amp hour you would recommend not going over?

For the sproket I was mainly trying to figure out if it was worth it. If I do it I will probably replace the bearings while I have it apart they are not bad but just something I won't have to do later.

On the port matching how do you figure out what isn't lining up on the ports?

Gear oil change
None of the fill spots in the post match what I have except for the one on the cvt side down low that's what was confusing me. The post is for a scooter so it's showing stuff that isn't on my motor.

Added pics to how state of the wiring when I brought her home.

[plee911]

I don't have to go as deep into it as I am but I really want it to be reliable to take out on hunts away from home so I'm going to be stripping the frame and repainting basically everything you're doing eventually

[neo71665]

I'll try to remember to check the battery next time I'm able to.

Can't help ya on the sprocket change being worth it. I have a double roller chain and they don't make sprockets for it (if they do they aint as easy to find). the drive is one of the few things that works and is in good shape. Once it wears out I'll look into what it takes to swap it to a single roller chain


These engines are based on a short case scooter engine. A lot of the time the references on stuff do cross over and are useful to us. The buggy sites are full of useful info but I've also found some good stuff on scooter sites. Scooters are far more popular so it seems more reference to them on stuff.

Gasket matching is simply where you make the port opening in the head match the port opening in the gasket. On these engines it's mainly the intake. The exhaust seems pretty good until you really start major mods. Plus the exhaust header is pretty small anyways. I built a 1 inch header for mine and that alone made a noticeable difference. Gonna try an a12 cam next and then if it is begging for more head I'll crack that open and work on it. I already have a 30mm intake manifold and a 28mm carb so I can see everything combined the head will be the weak link.

Do you have the external reverse (forward and reverse lever)? The fill and drain should be generally in the same spot back there. If you have an internal reverse (forward, neutral, reverse) I'm no help as I aint worked on one of those.

Yeah next winter I'm totally blowing mine apart and aint made up my mind if I'll paint the frame or have it powdercoated. Planned on doing it this winter but too much other crap came up. Just want to make sure there is no other tabs or brackets I want to weld on the frame before all that.

[BEEFKING69]

Hey plee welcome to this forum Battery....20 dollar one from walmart...they are 230cca i believe and they also have one with slightly more cca thats like 10 bucks more. Ive used both no problems. The HH150s already have the 39T sprocket unless its been swapped for the 31T but it came with 39T from the factory. 39T sprocket is defiantly worth it if for some reason its been changed.

I run A12 cams in all of the ones ive done upgrades to. Tried A11 and it broke the valve springs ina stock head. Have never had luck with the 30mm intake and the uper cross bar for the engine mounts was in the way on mine. 150cc scooters are the same motors as the older buggys for the most part but there is several different variations of the gy6 transmission/gearbox.



This should be yours....top circled one is fill and bottom circled one is drain....Fill till it starts to run out the fill hole.

[plee911]

NEO
Thanks for checking on the battery for me that will be a big help in finding the right one

I had read everywhere that port matching and polishing the exhaust port are great ways to get power gains out of this little motor for free so I defiantly want to do that.
An A12 cam yellow contra spring with the bearing base shim and 12 gram sliders are on the to do list as well.
Not planning to race with it but since im planning to use it for a hunting rig I want it to have the power I need in the trails


hey ya Beefking

Didn't drop the other forum just cant access it from work any more cause of a security rules change. Stupid but nothing I can do about it. Plus I found a bit more info over here that I wasn't able to find on other forums so glad I checked this one out

For the battery I am just looking for something with a little more capacity to handle the extra light bar and winch and I think it will do a little better with the heavier wire harness im building.
Ill check walmart out for the battery and see if I can find the one your talking about just didn't want to go to a battery with to many amp hours and burn up stuff that's why I was asking about the amp hour size

Ill double check the sprocket when I get home on Friday maybe I got my wires crossed but I thought I had the 31 tooth

Cant see the pic you posted for the gear box for some reason but ill look at it on my tablet when I get off do I fill it till oil runs out of the top hole? .

[BEEFKING69]

Yeah just fill it till it run out the top one. And yeah i like both sites and always find stuff on one that aint on the other and vise versa.

[plee911]

Beefking is this the battery your talking about
https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart...U1P-7/16782695

The PO already welded a second tray onto the buggy that's bigger than the factory tray. Ill need to measure and see what fits.

I have been using the old battery out of a 750 Vulcan for the time being.

[BEEFKING69]

Thats the higher amp one i was talking about which i have on my crossfire 250. The cheaper one is 230 amp i believe. Its 19.99 and either one of those will out last those junky little stock batterys.

[plee911]

Beefking

Thanks for the info ill get one picked up.
Now that I know what im looking for I can start looking for an AGM type as well but it will work well for the start and having the AGM later will give me a back up.

[plee911]

Also what do you think of this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Uni-UP-6200...1ZGfVN&vxp=mtr

or should I go with the shorter version

[BEEFKING69]

These are the ones i use on the 150s along with a 6 inch drain tail pipe for sinks and a 1.5 inch rubber coupler. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[BEEFKING69]

http://buggynews.com/5-dollar-intake...lter-t465.html The prices have gone up quiet a bit from when that was posted but itll show you what to get. The white plastic ones are cheaper and work just as good unless you just want the the chrome/brass ones.

[neo71665]

I have the 230 cca battery in mine. Sorry it took a bit I had doctor appts all day.


So far I've swapped the factory lights out with 18 watt led pods, I have a lighted whip, and running a 1500lb winch. The battery has kept up fine to date. I do plan on putting a 19 inch single row bar light on the roof but it's not gonna be for long term use. I will say if you go with the harbor freight winch with wireless control put some disconnect on either the winch or whole buggy. That wireless draws power even when not in use and if you don't run it every other day or so it will suck a battery down. Frankly I suggest putting in a hardwired toggle switch to control the winch anyways. You can then leave the wireless (still run a disconnect) or just do away with the wireless. There are a few tutorials on youtube on how to hardwire it. Just requires a double throw switch and 3 wires.

On my intake I do have to run an intake spacer to jump it over the tube. My intake tube was trimmed down in correlation with the manifold length and it seems to run fine. Matter of fact I have 24 inch tires on the rear and those are supposed to dog the engine down. They are the factory take offs of my honda 4 wheeler (barely any grip when new/they 1/2 tread now) and the little engine has no problem breaking them loose. I like where the powerband is right now I don't want to try to redo it. When my new tires come in (23 inch dirt devils) I might have to redo it all to get it back like it runs now. I'm a gearhead so half the fun is tuning but from what I read every one of these engines react differently. There is a rough base that works universally (intake, exhaust, weights) but the fine tuning is different.

[BEEFKING69]

X2 on the 18watt led pods thats what we run on all of ours...I did up mine to triple row 45 watt pods on mine last year and we have two buggys with the HF wireless 1500 pound winches and they definitely kill the battery after several days of not being ran. Side note i will be upgrading my winch to a 3 or 3500 pound winch as i burnt the 1500 pound one up after a couple of months.

[plee911]

Neo and beefking thanks so much for the info guys it has been a huge help I definitely have my projects lined up for the next little bit. Will post back here as I get things done and let you know how everything turns out.
On a side note a buddy of mine let me know last night that he has a near new set of tires for the front of my buggy and is going to bring them to me when he comes for a visit in a couple of weeks so now I just gotta the $$ saved and get me some rear tires and I'll be in great shape

[neo71665]

Just came back from wally world, the 230 battery is $21 something here

[plee911]

Cool i will plan to pick one up payday. Dont know that i will put it in till i get a new regulator but will be nice to have it here and ready

[plee911]

So the weather here has not been my friend. Sunny and warm on days I have to work 20 MPH wind, rain and Snow on my days off. (Man I need a garage)

Here is the current status
Verified I have the 39 tooth sprocket
Have the battery picked out but not picked up yet
Still waiting for front tires to be delivered

Parts that have come in
new master cylinder
new tubes for front and rear
new ignition switch
new light switch
new horn button
new kill switch
new turn signal switch
and
200 ft or 14 ga wire that I have been waiting on

If the weather decides to play nice this weekend this is the plan

1 Now that I have the last of the wire I can finally get all of the wire harness redone.

2 get all the new switches and ignition installed

3 get the master cylinder installed and bleed the brakes (this sounds like a fun chore)

4 pull back tires and get tubes installed

5 Pull and clean carb, pet cock and tank (It has sat for a few weeks cause of work and weather and now doesn't want to start and I noticed that the fuel filter wasn't staying full so thinking I have a flow problem at the tank.) may go to 1/4 lines with good clamps instead of the 3/16 stuff I have on there too.

Still have a lot to do and a lot of parts to get but with only 1 day off per week on 12 to 16 hour shifts its a slow process

[BEEFKING69]

Have fun with the brakes Use ethanol free gas or put stabil in your gas cans.

[plee911]

Yea im learning that the hard way lol
I saw all the posts about not letting the gas sit very long.
AZ gas isn't usually to bad but man 3 weeks of sitting and she wont start.
She was running good to even when ice cold started pretty easy.

Ill clean the carb and plug really good this weekend as long as mother nature doesn't decide to be bi polar again and I am sure she will be back to normal.

Also sure it doesn't help that I never took the petcock off and cleaned it before I started running her but I did notice that the flow wasn't keeping the inline filter even half full so that's on the to do list when I clean the carb this time and possibly going to 1/4 lines instead of the 3/16 stuff. I know I should have done it I just got excited to get her to start the first time and ran with it because she ran. Now I will go back and do it like I should have from the beginning.

[plee911]

So pulled and drained/flushed the tank removed the pet cock. Screens were nearly completely blocked with varnish. soaked it and the carb parts overnight cleaned it all up and she fired right up and has no trouble keeping the filter full now. Mother nature has decided to be nice this weekend so going to be installing the master cylinder finally and doing more of the wire harness.

[BEEFKING69]

Is yours vacuum or manual petcock? Around here ive had 2 week old gas turn dark yellow and leave green tint in carbs. I use 1/4 lines on most of my stuff also

[plee911]

BeefKing
Mine is the vac type. I am eyeballing the gravity type but focusing on the stuff that has to be fixed first.

Progress this weekend wasn't what I wanted stomach flu decided to pay a visit to my house and other things decided to break that had to be fixed before I was allowed to work on the buggy but did get some stuff done.

Master cylinder is installed. Blew out all break lines and went through 5 reservoirs full of fluid before I was satisfied that the breaks were bled properly but they now work great.

Dove into the rewire hard core looks worse than it did when I stared LOL but I know it will be awesome when I get it all done.

New properly working key switch, blinker switch, horn button, and head light switch are installed.

Should get the front tires this week finally but the re-wire is going to keep me busy for a couple of weekends at least.


Also what is the biggest you would go on a rear tire? Has 22s on it now do you think 25s would be ok or would it make it a dog.

Mother nature was very kind this week and I'm hoping that we have finally turned the corner into spring and nicer weather.

[neo71665]

Do yourself a favor and swap to the manual petcock. The vacuum type are problematic to say the least. The theory is sound on paper but rarely works long term and will drive you batty trying to troubleshoot.

As for tires they say 22s are the biggest you want. In the front it's the biggest you can fit without rubbing problems. On the rear anything bigger sucks the power out the engine. That said I'm running 23x8-11s on honda atv rims on my kinroad. I was lucky and got a buggy that has the same pattern front and rear so I was able to run the factory rims I pulled off my 4 wheeler. Those just happen to be the smallest you can easily find for the oddball 11 inch rim. They do rub on my front when I turn it hard.

[OLDKID]

Ditto on the 25's . Would suck up all your power . I went with Kenda Bear Claws on the back of My King Cobra . 23's on 10" stock rims . Deep aggressive mud tread , AND A LIGHTWEIGHT TIRE !!!

[BEEFKING69]

For the rear 22 or 23inch kenda bear claws or itp mudlites. I like 21 inch kenda max a/t K284 on the front. I also recommend swapping to manual petcock and 1/4 inch lines.

Edit.....Idk if you can get the kenda front max in an 8 inch rim tho......I think 20 inch is the biggest tire of any brand you can get for 8 inch rims.....All mine have been swapped to 10 inch fronts now.

Edit#2...... Ok you can get the kenda max in a 20x7x8. http://www.mud-throwers.com/inc/sdetail/65264/62076

http://www.mud-throwers.com/inc/sdetail/83155/331

http://www.mud-throwers.com/inc/sdetail/64885/515

[plee911]

After I posted the question I read through a bunch more threads and found the info on the tires. Should have looked first LOL. I just got excited because I saw a set on CL for a really good price but didn't want to waste the money if they were going to turn her into a dog.

The manual petcock is on the to get list along with 1/4 inch lines.
She is running good now with the 3/16 and vacuum petcock, but I know I definitely want to upgrade them. Just more focused on the stuff that MUST be fixed first then I can go back and change the stuff I want to change.

I should get the new front tires Thursday if everything goes as planned and should finish the rewire by next weekend.

I need to get some progress pics and post them haven't done it yet because most of the work I have done isn't really noticeable. But she has come a long way from the non running mess I brought home.

Have to start looking for a set of RZR seats soon the seat rebuild didn't work out very well and im using a half bench seat from a SUV for the time being.
ITs ok for around the yard and test rides down the block and back but once I get her ready to take out and really run its not a good safe seat to be using.
I will find a set soon enough though plenty of them out there.

[plee911]

Ok so here is an update on how the old girl is coming.

Got the rear end wire harness rewire completed and man seems like she starts and runs better with the new wire.
Got her fired up and went for a few runs and the breaks are working fantastic.

Has been a bit of a challenge with the 14 ga wire. The Chinese wire connectors don't like wire that big lol. But a good crimper, solder and heat shrink sure are making some nice tight connections 100X better than that junk that was on there from china.

Will probably be starting on the front section this week it will take a while because there are a lot more wires to replace and im doing all of them.

Hoping to be able to use a key to start her very soon.

[BEEFKING69]

Sounds good buddy! Ive been wanting to get some water proof connectors to use on my 400cc swap and i defiantly need some good crimpers.

[plee911]

Right now im using the standard white connectors to get her back going but plan to upgrade to the water proof ones later.

Like everything else I do though I want it to be bullet proof until I can get them that's why in leaving about 6 extra inches in my lines to make it easy to replace them when im ready..

The wife is getting impatient for it to be fully user ready so im working to that end then going to fix the things I want to fix once I get her all sorted out.

Bouncing between the buggy and getting a 62 Chevy Biscayne road worthy again. (Project for my daughter she will be the 5th generation of the family to own/drive it great, great grandpa bought it new in 62)

[plee911]

Ok so new question because im stupid. I cut the 4 pin connector off the regulator during the rewire so i would know what wire goes to what pin. Just getting to the new wires to and from regulator and cant find the old connector. How do i figure out what wire runs to what pin? I have the skinny longer regulator not the square type.

[SYCARMS]

Post a pic of the regulator. Also the wire colors.

[plee911]

Here are the pictures of the regulator. I have green, yellow and white on the 3 wire plug from the stator.

[BEEFKING69]

This should be it but id like a second opinion.

[SYCARMS]

That is what I come up with.

[plee911]

Ok i dont know if i am just cofusing myself or what.
Is this correct?
Coming from stator connection.

Yellow splits one to regulator 1 to auto enricher
Green splits to regulator but also to ground
White straight to regulator

Red out of regulator to battery and solonoid.


The white to lights in the pic is throwing me off.

[SYCARMS]

The white should split off somewhere in the harness to lights.

[BEEFKING69]

His is dc so he wont use the white for lights....Infact i dont think he will use white period other than just from stator to regulator. Plee i think you have that right but make sure you have the resistor on the ground side of the enricher.< edited. Thx Syc.

[SYCARMS]

No the resistor goes on the ground side of enrichment valve.

[plee911]

Yeah that's what I got yellow split to regulator and enricher. The other wire from enricher goes to the long white resister then the resister has a second wire that goes to ground.
My lights and everything else on the buggy will be running dc the only thing that's AC is the CDI.

I wanted the AC CDI because if my battery dies I can still start her and get her home with a jump or booster pack.

With DC if the battery dies she's dead in the water.

[SYCARMS]

Both buggies with ac or dc cdi can be started with a dead battery using a jump pack.

[plee911]

I feel like I how I put it looked like I was bashing on DC systems and that was not what I meant.
Yes they can both be started but with the exception of a few odd balls that I have heard about once you disconnect the jumper a DC CDI buggy will die. This isn't a problem if using a booster pack but if the pack dies then your still dead.

I suppose you could have a buddy with jumpers pace you back to the truck lol.

There is nothing wrong with a DC CDI system on a buggy they are easy to maintain and many people like them. They are a great system and I think easier to trouble shoot.

I just prefer to have mine set up AC because the only thing that requires the battery to start is the starter. So because the stator provides spark and power to the AC CDI once you get her started she will stay running even with a dead battery. Since I don't always have a buddy to go with me but I always carry a booster pack this was the logical way for me to go.

[SYCARMS]

Both systems weather AC or DC volt the stator supplies the spark for engine to run so a battery is not needed for it to run. The battery is only for cranking.

[BEEFKING69]

Dc wont run if its not charging tho..... at least thats been my experience. I like ac because i can wire it up quicker to run and i like dc because my dc buggys always seem to have fatter sparks and run smoother.

[plee911]

Thats what I was meaning.

DC systems require 12v from the battery to operate the CDI and signal from the stator to create spark
So if the battery dies if its just a bad battery you can jump it and it will run off the charging system.
If the battery died due to a bad regulator or charging side of the stator failure your can still jump it but as soon as you disconnect the supplied power the system will shut down or run like crap.

On an AC system the power for the CDI is supplied by the stator so if the battery dies the system will run once jumped and doesn't require anything from the battery or charging side of the system to continue to do so.
The down side of this is that if it wont jump and you know your battery is dead then you probably have a bad CDI or stator.

Granted wires shorted will throw gremlins into either system and fuel/AIR issues could be other culprits.

Im just using this as a busted battery type scenario where there are no other issues involved except the power to the CDI.


I was putting it to simplified and it had the potential to cause confusion and that's what SYCARMS is trying to correct so that people are not getting incomplete information.
Plus there is the fact that some buggies refuse to be wired differently than originally set up.

SYCARMS thanks for pointing it out Im far from being an expert and I tend to over simplify things and we want to help people not confuse them more.

[SYCARMS]

First off all stators supply AC volts, however some of the older buggies used DC volt stators which you can tell by lights dimming at idle and getting brighter as RPM's rise just like when cars used DC generators years ago. The AC current used in newer vehicles weather cars or buggies require a rectifier to convert AC volts to DC volts. The old AC system used AC volts off the stator for the trigger the new system uses DC volts thus the difference in CDI's used. It does not matter which CDI is used for both will start and run without a battery just like modern day scooters today using DC volt CDI with a kick start. On either AC or DC if the stator is bad you will not start or run. An AC volt system will still run with a bad rectifier since it gets its power off the stator in the form of AC volts where as the DC volt will not run with a bad rectifier. If you recall to check a car alternator while running, if you disconnect the neg. terminal of the battery the engine will die because the rectifier is bad. Due to rectifier being bad the alternator current cannot convert from AC to DC so the ignition will run off the battery until the battery discharges or the negative cable is removed. Bottom line is that either one will run without a battery.

[plee911]

SYCARMS

Yes exactally what i was trying to say. Not very good with the technical terminoligy but you are 1000% correct and far better at expressing it.

For my spesfic curcumstances the AC system works better for me and i have fewer things to have to worry about in the ignition system by doing it that way. But again this is my preferance/opinion.

[BEEFKING69]

Thats also what i was trying to get at. You just said it alot better lol

[plee911]

SO its been a bit since I posted an update and a few things have changed.


Rear rewire was nearly completed when the connectors for the regulator and CDI both decided they had had enough and disintegrated so had to order some replacement pig tails. They are finally here and will hopefully get the chance to get them added to the system this weekend.

Other big change was I had been letting my kids drive the buggy around in between rewire sessions. I had the rule that they could only drive it while I was home so I could watch for issues and because of my work hours that meant only on weekends. that rule was not followed and kids were driving it every time I wasn't home. Well kids don't understand the importance of little things like checking the oil.

So I get to my weekend and head out to start and warm it up for them to take a short ride before I replace more wires and they inform me that it died on them and that they cant get it to start.

Well it was more like couldn't get it to crank. so I hook up the booster thinking dead battery and still get the same result just real slow crank. Pull the dip stick and you guessed it not a drop of oil on it.

So get some fresh oil in it and get her cranking like she should and she fires up and runs. Granted the only reason I know she runs is because I can hear the engine I cant see a dang thing for the huge cloud of smoke lol.

Well after checking her over I haven't been able to find any indication that the bottom end was damaged and there are no signs of damage to the head.

But we all know that the rings and cylinder are toast.

So now I have added a top end replacement to the to do list.

My plan at this point is to go to the 155cc kit.
I was able to confirm that my engine is the 1p57qmj with the 54mm stud spacing so I will be able to get the parts pretty easy.

I know there are bigger options but the 155cc kit is drop in and I have no where close that I can trust to cut the case for me and overall cost is an issue.

So that's where im at will update one I can get a kit ordered and update on the progress getting it put in.

[BEEFKING69]

That means you should have the big valve head? I havent forgot about you on checking that other HH i just havent had a chance to get over there and look at it

[plee911]

No worries Beef I figured you had been busy.
Remind me what the size was for the big valves so I can check.

Plan to do a general port and polish and lap the valves when I get the kit ordered.
Not gonna go crazy just clean it up and do what I can to polish the exhaust side

[BEEFKING69]

30ish mm and 26ish mm I believe

[neo71665]

Originally Posted by plee911

No worries Beef I figured you had been busy.
Remind me what the size was for the big valves so I can check.

Plan to do a general port and polish and lap the valves when I get the kit ordered.
Not gonna go crazy just clean it up and do what I can to polish the exhaust side

Without a flow bench I suggest just cleaning up the casting flaws and opening the ports to the same size as gaskets. When opening them up just blend it in about an inch inside the port. Leave the intake runner a bit rough but the exhaust can be as close to mirror polished as you want to spend the time on.

[plee911]

Neo
That's the plan that's what I was meaning by general
I wouldn't have the slightest at how to do a full port and polish but clearing the flaws and smoothing out the exhaust side that I can do. The intake side needs to stay rough after clearing flaws or it will mess with the fuel air mix in the intake because the fuel will want to reform into drops on smooth walls. The exhaust side the smoother the better.
I'm not gonna go nuts because I wouldn't have a clue if I was doing it right beyond the basic version. Even if I had a flow bench wouldn't know what I was doing so a professional level job is out of the question.

If I ever end up with a spare head to play with then I might try experimenting but since this is all I got I'm planning to stay well inside of the safe zone with the cleaning of the ports.

[BEEFKING69]

Ive got a 55 gallon drum full of old heads/cylinders if you want a couple to experiment with ill give you a couple if you pay shipping.

[plee911]

Beef

Heck yea PM me your info and a shipping cost and I will get something set up.

Would like to see the differences between the standard 157qmj head and 1P57qmj heads

same with cylinders

If you can tell the difference between them lol

Would also give me some practice on doing a full on port and polish and see how they turn out.

[neo71665]

Dang Beef I need to come down there and go though your parts pile. I wouldn't mind having an extra head to grind on.

[BEEFKING69]

Ill pm yall. and plee cylinders should be the same.

[plee911]

So things have been slow going here a lot of other projects jumped up and have kept me away from the buggy for a while.

If everything goes as planned I will be ordering my rebuild kit this weekend.

Beefking I haven't forgot about you just had other things come up that ate my paycheck lol.

My work cut off overtime so im going to have 3 days a week off for the next while.

Plus side is more time to work on the buggy.
Minus side less money the wife will let me spend on the buggy.

The new front tires I was waiting on ended up being a bust. Wrong size and badly dry rotten so they are back on my to do list but did find a used one to fix the one that disintegrated.

while im waiting to order parts has anyone used the a12 cam on the 1p57qmj motor.

I am seriously looking at getting one but if im understanding the other posts I have read and what I have seen on youtube then I cant use it with a 1p head because the cam sits higher in the head or something to that effect.

Im just confused because I have seen ones saying you cant go higher than an A9 and other saying they cant use the lower numbered cams with the 1p heads but that the A12 works great.

So im looking for someone who can say for sure yes or no.

[SYCARMS]

If you have the hammerhead buggy an A-8 to A-14 cam will work. The cam you choose will depend on type of terrain and what you want out of the buggy eg. bottom end, mid or top end power.

[plee911]

I'm going for decent low-end grunt without losing too much of the high-end. I don't need the thing to do 50 mile an hour but I'd like to maintain about 30 ish.
During hunting season it'll be used for scouting and hunting not super rugged terrain but it needs to have some torque to get around through the trails.
When it's not hunting season it'll be a little fun buggy for my kids.
I live up in northern Arizona which is high desert and mountains. There is not a lot of flat ground mostly low hills.
From everything I had read an A12 seem to be about what I wanted to go with to get the best of both worlds teamed up with probably 12 Gram sliders.

That teamed up with the 155cc kit and a cleaned-up head should give me just about what I'm after for now.
I'm planning to gut the stock exhaust that's on it if it's not already but leave a nipple at the end to attach an additional Muffler when I'm using it for hunting to quiet it back down. That way when I'm not hunting I can enjoy the sound and not have a pissed-off bumblebee LOL

Like I said I just read a few places that you couldn't use the a12 cam on the 1p heads but nobody really said for sure why and I had seen a couple of posts that said they had the 1p motor and use the a12 just fine but not A9 through A11.

[neo71665]

The P engines have a different head with slightly different spacing on things compared to a normal gy6. The cam is raised and the exhaust runner is longer. Due to the design the P engine already has a bit more HP and torque than a normal one. (1-2 horses, it's not ground breaking).

It's been awhile but if I remember right an normal A12 cam will bind the valve springs on a P head. A normal exhaust won't fit without a bit of tweaking.

When I was reading up I recall seeing on the scooter forums about a seller on ebay that ran a shop in taiwan that could get and ship P engine parts to the US.

I had a P engine but it seemed hopping it up was gonna be too much headache so I swapped to a regular gy6. Lucked out finding a short case parts scooter the engine was pretty good they were just robbing everything easy to take off of it.


I will tell you I learned on v8s longer runner intake manifolds generally make more torque in a lower powerband. With that in mind I put a spacer on my gy6 and it did make it torquier lower in the power band without a cam. That with a 28mm carb, free flowing exhaust, unifilter, and 12 gram sliders I was running 23 inch tires on all 4 corners and still bouncing off 40mph on a good straight stretch and it done just fine climbing hills and jumping over logs in the woods. I kept up with dad on a 2wd 250 honda recon with 26 inch tires everywhere but deep mud. The A12 cam dropped my top speed down to 37. About the only real noticeable difference is it will now spin the tires at a dead stop on gravel where it did just squat down and run. I was expecting more and IMHO rather disappointed in no more gain the way guys praise the A12.

The muffler idea is a good one. When I built mine I made it way too loud to hunt off of, lol. I welded an 3/4 inch rigid electrical connector to the end of it and screw on a lawnmower hotdog muffler when I want it sneaky. When we mud ride I can open it up. I will warn ya just that little bit does require me to rejet the carb. I just drop down or go up one size, pretty easy. Really didn't notice any major power drop with a full 1 inch exhaust with the last bit 3/4.

[SYCARMS]

The HH uses the normal GY6 series and the cams will fit. The old style GY6 engines were 157QMJ and those with the P prefix were the industrial which most had 2 bolt valve covers but some used the 4 bolt covers. The main difference were they had a taller head with different rocker arm ratio but also the spacing of the head studs measured diagonally center to center was 3-1/8" where as the normal/ original licensed GY6 engine was 3" and used the short head.

[plee911]

Ahh ok now that makes sence.
I had found some info but no one really explained. Thats why i was confused.
Thats fantastic info though cause it means i can go to the A12 cam with out being worried.

So with 155cc kit, cleaned up head, gutted exhaust, uni filter and A12 cam my motor should be able to put out a bit more punch.

It wont be a sreaming demon but thats not my goal for it. Since it will eventually be passed on to one of my daughters once i get something bigger for me to use for hunting.

I do like driving it though so may look at a 250 ish type buggy rather than a side by side. Or may continue with mods and get them something else.

Will just have to see what luck, oppertunities and finances decide in the next year lol.

[neo71665]

Originally Posted by plee911

So with 155cc kit, cleaned up head, gutted exhaust, uni filter and A12 cam my motor should be able to put out a bit more punch.

Woke mine up. I'm kinda interested in what a 180cc kit does now.


I have a 400 4x4 4 wheeler and I find playing with this buggy is more fun. Whole lot cheaper to boot. Unless a really good deal on a 250 falls in my lap if I ever upgrade buggies I think I have my eye on a trailmaster 300 xrs.

[plee911]

Ok so a few things have happened

New battery has been purchased and is sitting in the buggy.
155cc kit has been ordered and is on the way.
New set of jets from 115 to 135 ordered and on the way

Uni filter will be ordered Tuesday and the rest of the parts for redneck intake picked up

Rewire has been stalled due to connectors crumbling and solder iron just wasn't up to snuff.

New 100watt solder gun purchased and all new connectors that were ordered have come in so now it wont take 20-30 minutes to solder each wire on the new ones.

Considering dropping the motor now for the rebuild and doing the sand and paint at the same time as the rebuild.

A12 cam isn't in the budget at the moment but I can always toss it on later.

Been stalled for a bit but its nice to finally have something happening again.

[neo71665]

I know it's discouraging looking at it sitting there not running in parts but stick with it bud. Been/still there my self as a single parent on disability trying to raise a 10 year old boy. I break systems up into a single project and tackle it. Don't move to something else until you are done. Bouncing around you waste time, money, and wears you thin. You start worrying about doing something else you might skip over doing something you are supposed to be doing now unintentionally.

I suggest if you are gonna rewire it then don't waste time and money fixing the factory harness. If anything can wipe out all your hard work in one go it's a short in the electrical burning the buggy to the ground. If the engine is running get the wiring done. At least that way when you tear the engine apart to do the big bore you know for a fact some hidden bad spot in the cheap factory harness hasn't gone bad if you can't get it to crank and run.

Please for the love of anything holy do not tape up any wire connection ever unless it's temp to get home to fix it right. Heat shrink takes a bit more time but does a better job, lasts longer, and doesn't leave black goo all over everything when it comes off. The summer heat makes tape release, even the good tape.

[plee911]

I hear ya NEO

As far as the wiring goes im doing a full rewire.
There will be none of the original factory wire when im done.

The only things I was using from the original harness were some of the connectors.

However the ones for the regulator and the CDI disintegrated after I got them soldered into the new wires.

I ordered new CDI and regulator connectors and everywhere else im swapping in brand new connectors because I don't want it to happen again.

It means going back and redoing some of the work I have already done but at least it will be done with all new stuff. Nothing from the old system is being reused now.

Also I am heat shrinking all soldered connections with good heat shrink.

I am using electrical tape in a couple of places but only to gather the wire together in a bundle not on any of the connections. once I get everything done it will all go inside good wire conduits for proper protection.

I just have a lot I want to do.
Some things are fairly cheap some are more costly.
Some wont take long to do others will take a while.

One rule that is part of my reality is that if it doesn't run and im not actively working on something that the wife can see as a reason for it not running then it gets dubbed a piece of junk that im never going to fix and she will hound me till I get rid of it.

Im planning to use it for scouting and hunting this fall so I really want it repainted before then. Looking at either an OBD green base or coyote tan base with camo.

It is for hunting and my daughter loves camo anyway

If I do the engine and get it running then she will want to know why im taking it all apart to paint.

If I get all the wiring done then I will just have to take it all off to sand and paint.

If I pull the engine now while im waiting to rebuild the engine and only have the back half of the wiring done then sanding and paint will be easier and since I have a sand blaster and paint sprayer she will see progress being made toward making it nice again.

I agree with you that it is best to focus on a specific project and get it completed.
That's how I usually approach things myself.

How ever on this project there is a lot that needs to be done and depending on the order I do them in I will either make more or less work for myself by doing them one at a time only.

I also have to contend with the fact that I do not have a garage or shop to work in and that I can only work on it on my weekends. I work 12 hour shifts and have a 3 hour round trip commute so I only have time to sleep between shifts.

I can put the motor in my shed and work on it when the wind, heat, or possibly the occasional rain prevent me from working on the sanding and paint.

When I cant work outside I can work in the house on stubbing out the electrical so that there is less work when I fit it to the buggy just trim to size and tie in.

I hate breaking the project up and having to bounce but given my options its the only way to keep progress being made.

Of course if the weather plays nice I can focus on the paint and get it all done. That will give it time to cure good while I do the motor and the rest of the rewire.

The main thing is to keep something happening. Even if it drives me nuts to do it that way.

[SYCARMS]

Like Gilligan's Island it always starts as a 3 hour tour.

[plee911]

I hear you lol.

Get started in to one thing and find something else that leads to another issue lol. Story of my life.

I have looked over all of the frame and bearings everything looks good. Nice and tight and the fittings all took grease properly.

So as far as the painting goes I shouldn't run into any problems there.
Most of the factory red paint is still on the buggy the PO just went over it with a rattle can in black. Far as I can tell they didn't even sand the factory paint first. From poking around and inspecting for rust the only place I have found any was under where the original twister stickers were on the sides. The PO painted over them too lol.
Not going to go nuts with the painting I have a big pot sand blaster and a home made paint booth so stripping it down to bare metal and addressing the few very small rust spots wont be hard.
That coupled with an ok HVLP paint sprayer and I can get her done up.

Good automotive grade primer, 3 coat base automotive grade paint with a good 2k clear coat for sun protection and she should be good to roll. Got to have the clear coat here in AZ or the sun will wreak paint fast.

Powder coating and or bed liner would be nice but is cost prohibitive for me right now.

She isn't going to win any beauty contests but she will look presentable again.

[SYCARMS]

I used Dupont Chroma System on my buggy in 2006. Cost me short of 400.00 but it has held up as well as powder coating. It has only one chip the size of a dime where my son backed into me hard enough to dimple the tubing.

[neo71665]

I'm all for fancy paint but I'm rough on my off road toys. I find it easier to spray them with cheap rustoleum. When I do scratch them up or have to repair it's pretty easy to touch it up.

[plee911]

Not planning anything fancy as I said its going to be a hunting buggy for me and a play buggy for the kids.

The desert camo motif is more to give it a little character and make it less noticeable when scouting and hunting.

If I buy the paint in cans for the sprayer I figure I can do the whole buggy for a little over $100

[neo71665]

Should be able to easily do it for $100. Last year I painted 2 medium sized tractors for $100 in paint materials. That doesn't include the sand I used in my blaster, just primer, grey, and red paint. Also no body work because I don't care if they are pretty just wanted to keep rust at bay.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by neo71665

I'm all for fancy paint but I'm rough on my off road toys. I find it easier to spray them with cheap rustoleum. When I do scratch them up or have to repair it's pretty easy to touch it up.

That's my point, this paint is amazing after running through heavy brush rocks scraping the bottom the paint has held up surprisingly well. After driving through mud and sliding my feet across the floor the shine has left a bit but the paint is still intact. Before I got my enclosed trailer the buggy was left outside for about a year since my garage and shops are full the seat and belts have faded but the paint looks like the day I painted it.If you can budget for it, it's well worth the money.

[plee911]

SYCARMS
I have read a lot of good stuff about the Chroma paint.

Its just too pricey right now

NEO

As far as painting 2 tractors for that I can believe it.

Im just being cautious because of all the tubing.
Painting tubing has a lot more wasted paint than other surfaces.

Plan is to use a good automotive self etching primer should run me about $30
Good automotive grade paint will run me around $45 for the 3 base coats of coyote tan and the grey and black patches that will get 2 coats each.
Then top her off with 3 coats of 2K automotive clear coat that will run me about $30

I have done a couple of simple paint jobs on motorcycle tanks and bicycles for my kids and they came out pretty good doing it that way.

Like I said before im not going for a professional grade paint job just one that will last a bit and meet the needs I have planned for buggy.

If things end up the way I want I will be going to a bigger buggy in a year or 2 for me anyway so it will end up as a kids/wife's buggy.

If by then the paint hasn't held up very well then I can look at more durable options, because by then the ones using it will want it a different color anyway lol.

The primary users right now are me and my 2 oldest daughters. I want the subdued color for hunting and they love camouflage so its a win/win.

When I move up to a bigger buggy the primary users will be my youngest daughter who loves yellow and purple and my wife who loves dark green and dark blue.
So there will be no telling what kind of paint job will end up on it other than that they both hate camouflage and will want it changed lol


So my aim right now is good paint job with low cost.

[plee911]

Ok so rebuild kit is here.
Jets and intake are still on the way but should be here by the end of the week
Will be picking up primer and paint Thursday.
Blasting media is sitting in my shed.

Crossing my fingers for good weather Friday and Saturday so I can really make a dent in this project.

[SYCARMS]

Originally Posted by plee911

SYCARMS
I have read a lot of good stuff about the Chroma paint.

Its just too pricey right now

NEO

As far as painting 2 tractors for that I can believe it.

Im just being cautious because of all the tubing.
Painting tubing has a lot more wasted paint than other surfaces.

Plan is to use a good automotive self etching primer should run me about $30
Good automotive grade paint will run me around $45 for the 3 base coats of coyote tan and the grey and black patches that will get 2 coats each.
Then top her off with 3 coats of 2K automotive clear coat that will run me about $30

I have done a couple of simple paint jobs on motorcycle tanks and bicycles for my kids and they came out pretty good doing it that way.

Like I said before im not going for a professional grade paint job just one that will last a bit and meet the needs I have planned for buggy.

If things end up the way I want I will be going to a bigger buggy in a year or 2 for me anyway so it will end up as a kids/wife's buggy.

If by then the paint hasn't held up very well then I can look at more durable options, because by then the ones using it will want it a different color anyway lol.

The primary users right now are me and my 2 oldest daughters. I want the subdued color for hunting and they love camouflage so its a win/win.

When I move up to a bigger buggy the primary users will be my youngest daughter who loves yellow and purple and my wife who loves dark green and dark blue.
So there will be no telling what kind of paint job will end up on it other than that they both hate camouflage and will want it changed lol


So my aim right now is good paint job with low cost.

Get one of those touchup guns from Harbor Freight, their cheap and work great. You will get a smaller fan spray and it will use half the paint as compared to a full sized gun.

[neo71665]

Originally Posted by SYCARMS

Get one of those touchup guns from Harbor Freight, their cheap and work great. You will get a smaller fan spray and it will use half the paint as compared to a full sized gun.

X2

I find I use the touch up gun more than I use my full size. I also quit buying spray bombs and now just buy paint in the can. In the long run it's much cheaper.

[plee911]

Yea I learned a long time ago that rattle cans are to be avoided if possible.

I have always gotten better results from paint sprayers even with lower quality paints than I was ever able to get with a rattle can.

Not saying rattle cans are bad or don't have their place I just could never get the end result as nice as I would have liked with a rattle can.

For this im going with fair quality automotive grade paint and primer.

When I get to the next repaint I will plan for something more durable since it will stay that color and will probably be looking at the Chroma for that.

I will look at picking up the touch up gun I have the standard HVLP gun from harbor freight already but the touch up gun wouldn't be a bad investment if it will allow me to complete the job with less waste with out adding a lot of time.

I like to primer one day with about 1 hour between coats and paint the next but when doing base coats I only do 2 then let it cure for a week depending on temps before putting on another coat.

Im sure there are better ways to do it this is just what has worked well for me on other paint jobs.

I have found that if I rush the coats I get a poor finished project and if I wait longer than a week between the 2 and 3rd base coat I don't get any better result so that's how I do it.


I will get some pics of my progress and post them as I get things done.
Had not posted many up till now because I was focused on the rewire and it doesn't show well on pics lol.

[plee911]

Ok well no matter what i did something kept getting in the way of working on the buggy..

Finally got irritated yesterday and got the top of the motor off. Old cylinder looks like its in ok shape no heavy damage.
Piston showed real damage around piston skirt and ring area. Rings were compressed and trapped.
Gonna hone and save old cylinder as a back up.

New piston and jug installed.

Worked all morning today on cleaning up the head holy crap was that thing in rough shape.

Combustion chamber volume was probably reduced by 20% from all the build up.
Exhauste port was reduced by 25% atleast.

Got them all cleaned up and cleared the casting flaws. Got intake shim matched to intake port man that thing was way off.

Still have to lap the valves and match intake shim to intake neck then i can finally put it all back together and get her ready to start.

Should see a good increase in power from fixing all of this stuff.

Paint and wires are still on hold stuff kept getting in the way every time i tried to start on either one.

[plee911]

First a shout out to Beefking.
He sent me 2 old heads to play with for porting and polishing. Thank you so much these will help me develop my skills in this area.


Now the update got the top end all bolted back together everything looks good and sounds good when spun by hand.

Had to rebuild the exhaust. Had lost one of the studs so got a new one and cleaned up the mess that was inside. It had already been gutted but the PO had rigged up a crappy screen system inside as a red neck spark arrester. Anyway its all gone now. Will be setting valve gap in the morning and with a little luck the engine will fire off to begin break in tomorrow morning.

[neo71665]

Not sure if you have ever done porting work but be careful. My only experanice is with cars (cast iron and aluminum heads/intakes) but it seems these are way softer aluminum. I started out with my die grinder and rolls I normally use and they were eating it up. I ended up digging out the dremel and attacking them with it.

And yes major props to Beefking for sending us heads. When it's not in the triple digits I plan on really working on them. I'm gonna ruin one but I'm opening it up with no low end in thought and just high RPM flow just to see what it will do. No intake spacer for a short runner.
The other I'm gonna go way milder to hopefully work with my a12 cam and daily driving. My buddy is gonna make me another intake spacer and I'm waiting on another "racing" intake so I swap them out easier.

Of course I'm also waiting on the mail for valves, seals, guides, and all the other goodies to rebuild 2 heads.

[plee911]

Ok so i got valves set and everthing back together fired her off and she runs like a dream. Easy starting and loads more power. Thats the good news.

The bad news.
Well read a few posts on the break in. Some said baby it others said run it hard to get a better seat on the rings.

Well im a redneck so naturally i chose the run it hard option. Everything went great for the first hour hard run. Wide open runs for about 100 yards slow to a crawl and launch again.

After the first hour parked her and let the motor cool down completely.

Went back out checked her over everything was good so fired her up for another round.
About halfway through i started smelling oil.

You guessed it i blew a gasket. Well pulled her in and shut her down.

Not sure which one yet cause a monsoon decided to hit and boy was it a nasty one.

Will be going over her in the morning. Hoping its one of 2 things. Because i was heating her up pretty good could have caused head bolts to need retourqed. Or because i just put a little blue gasket seal on the valve cover slapped it on and fired her up it may not have had enough time to cure and seal good.

Either way ill figure it out and get it sorted out.

Really liking how much of a difference it made though.

[plee911]

Oh i set both valves at .004 is that about what you guys are running?

[neo71665]

Brave soul. Seen way too many engines blown up by running them hard without breaking them in. We even broke in our drag engines after rebuilding them and we knew we would be rebuilding it anyways in a month or less.


Run both my valves at .004. I hear ya on the rain, need to adjust my valves but every time I have the energy it starts raining. As soon as I give up on the idea it stops. Then seems like as soon as I walk out to start it rains again. Here it drives the humidity up and makes the job that much worse.

[SYCARMS]

You never run the engine hard during break-in.

[plee911]

Well its just a blown gasket at this point so once i get her sorted i will go easier on her.

I had never seen a recomendation to hard break in a motor myself until i found it.
The hard break in is only claimed to be good for a rering and jug change.
Since that was all i did went ahead and tried it.
Would never even have considered it an option had new bearings and or crank been involved. Those must be broken it easy.

Gonna sort the leak change the oil and keep her under half throttle for a bit. Dont think the hard break in is a good thing todo either now but hey maybe some one else will learn from my mistake

You live and you learn

[SYCARMS]

Bearings do not need breaking in rings do.

[plee911]

Ok so it turns out that its the lower jug gasket that blew right where the oil channel is. Wondering if it was an oil pressure issue. Will check the valve cover vent when i tear it back down to fix the gasket. Doesnt look like the gasket is damaged just pushed out. Will clean it up use some copper coat and reassemble and give it a few days to set up and cure before i run her again.

[neo71665]

Be careful reusing pushed out gaskets. They can look ok but have stretched out of shape. if lucky will work but more often than not won't lay flat and work their self right back out.
I'd try it if you don't have another gasket on hand but order one for backup.

[SYCARMS]

Replace the gasket.

[plee911]

Yea I got one ordered already will probably be here before I get the chance to tear it down anyway. Riding hard probably didn't help but I am thinking I should have given it more time to cure. That and I used the copper coat in the can instead of the spray on stuff. I don't like it but its what I had on hand so its what I used. Should have been watching for push out with that stuff. it probably pushed most of the way out when I was tightening everything down.
The gasket in that area is thin to begin with. will straight edge the area when I pull it off and make sure I don't have a gap on the case or the new jug. There shouldn't be but I don't want to have to do it again. Will also check the bolts and see if they backed off at all when I pull it apart.

[SYCARMS]

The gasket needs no sealant at all just gasket alone, than torque the cylinder head assembly to 16 foot pounds in a crisscross pattern in 2 steps. First 10 ft. lbs than 16 ft. lbs. at room temp.

[plee911]

Ok that will help the specs I had were for 14 ftlbs I did do the 2 step 10 then 14 in criss cross but if 16 is what it should have been then that may very well be what my problem was. Then again it might have been fine if I hadn't been driving it like I stole it. I ordered a complete gasket kit should be here by Friday. Will do both head gaskets with new ones and make sure my oil passages and vents are all clear as I go back together. One good thing about it blowing was I was able to see the volume my oil pump is putting out and it's definitely very good flow took all of about 10 seconds to puke half a quart when I started her to verify leak location. Good thing I had topped it off before hand. I'm usually way more picky about checking things and verifying when doing engine work. Just been kind of sloppy with this thing and those are the results I'm getting in return. Need to just slow down and do it the way I know it should be done and make it take as long as it takes.

[plee911]

New gasket kit is here but won't be able to do anything with it till Friday. One thing I noticed was the lower jug gasket in this kit is alot thicker than the one that came with the 155cc kit. SRP branded seems like much higher quality. Kit also came with new valve seals so gonna replace them at the same time.
With this gasket being so much thicker definitely not planning on using copper spray this time.

[plee911]

Well my jet kit came in today and I now have an assortment of pilot and main jets so once I get her back together with the new gasket I can get her jetted properly.

Mods so far
155cc BBK
Port matched head and cleaned up casting flaws
uni filter with redneck intake.
Gutted exhaust.

I should be running lean at this point but honestly don't know.
Since I will be going easy on her this time to finish the break in I will use the time to check the jetting. Wont be able to get it very accurate until I finish the break in and can do some WOT runs and check the plug but should be able to see if its to lean on the pilot at least

Once I get her back together I will get some pics haven't been very good at getting pics of this process and I know they help a ton for new people that will be looking at this for information and to learn.

Im going to try to go through this week end and get all the pics I have and update my posts with them.
Right now this thread reads like a long book lots of words but hardly any pics.

Hoping this weekend after I get her buttoned up to start on the sand blasting and maybe get to primer her.

I want to do that before I finish the rewire cause I don't want to have to disconnect it all to paint. Much easier to do it after I finish painting.

[SYCARMS]

Do your break in first and do nothing with the jetting. Then do your full throttle runs to get the correct main jet. After the main jet is correct than do your pilot jet. Just keep in mind when doing the WOT runs, cut the engine off at WOT at end of run so you get an accurate WOT reading. Letting engine return to idle no mater how short and reading will be flawed.