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  #1  
Old 06-18-2012, 12:44 PM
furball751 furball751 is offline
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Talking New to the kart world

Hi I'm kinda new to the kart world. I have owned many 2 & 3 wheelers but never cared for 4 wheelers, so I decided to go a kart cuz I have ridden them befor and liked them. I just got a new Tao Tao ATK-150a with the gy6 p motor on it. I am quite impressed with the power it has even with me & my budys 320lbs in it. But I'm looking to get a little more low end power out of it and more top end, 32mph is just not enough 40+ would be better. I have done a fair amount of mod research on the net & on this forum & this is what I have planed for mods, any in put would be great.
HP ignition coil & cdi
Iridium spark plug
32mm carb & intake
44mm air filter
Modified exhaust
1500rpm yellow torque spring
115mm HP variator light weight drive face
Dr pulley sliders 11 or 12 gram ??
Possibly HP cam ??

I have all ready replaced the rear tires and the cheap chain that kept strechin till it broke. Also need better rear shocks any suggestions. Summer is here in MN but now I can't wait for winter too.
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  #2  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:11 PM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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Welcome to the site.A lot of info.and good people here.
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  #3  
Old 06-18-2012, 09:01 PM
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Welcome-I think the iridium plug is a waste of money as I get the best result from a good copper plug.
  #4  
Old 06-19-2012, 05:12 AM
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Ditto on the plug.

WELCOME ABOARD!
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  #5  
Old 06-19-2012, 10:36 AM
furball751 furball751 is offline
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to late i all ready ordered a plug but thats ok it was only $8. I also got all the other stuff I wanted for mods except the carb & intake and the exhaust(Next week). I'm not sure about getting the performance cam thoe I hear mixed things. But I know that it can make a big improvment on most engines. I mostly dont want to have to modifye the motor.
  #6  
Old 06-19-2012, 10:55 PM
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A 32mm carb is pretty big for a 150. Alot of guys have used the 30mm carb, and alot go back to the stock 24mm too.
  #7  
Old 06-20-2012, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlint89 View Post
A 32mm carb is pretty big for a 150. Alot of guys have used the 30mm carb, and alot go back to the stock 24mm too.
The 24mm with the proper jetting works great in a 150. A few mods to the carb itself make it even better. a 32mm, is just too big. even if you're running a baored and stroked engine, out to 180cc, a 30mm is as big as most folks go for all around good performance.
A ported and polished head, will do you more good, especially with the OEM sized carb, than a larger carb.
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2012, 06:05 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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Can someone tell me how to bypass the elect.choke or plug
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:12 PM
furball751 furball751 is offline
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Thanks for the info maybe I will get a 30mm carb then. maybe just a jet kit I will have to see how it go's with the stuff I have on the way.. how about the performance cam's any one know any thing about them.

If you don't trust or like the auto choke put a switch on it so it can be shut off, thats what I'm going to do.
  #10  
Old 06-20-2012, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
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Can someone tell me how to bypass the elect.choke or plug
Take the choke off at the carb and make a gasket and put it back together.This will close off the holes that let the choke work.A manila folder makes a good gasket.When its cold you will have to pump the gas a few times wile starting,when wormed up its starts the same as before.
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  #11  
Old 06-21-2012, 04:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by furball751 View Post
Thanks for the info maybe I will get a 30mm carb then. maybe just a jet kit I will have to see how it go's with the stuff I have on the way.. how about the performance cam's any one know any thing about them.

If you don't trust or like the auto choke put a switch on it so it can be shut off, thats what I'm going to do.
The auto choke doesn't work like most people think, it REQUIRES voltage to shut the fuel circuit off. Putting a switch on it and turning off the power will let the choke come on constantly. Its default setting is OPEN with no power. Turn the power on, and it slowly heats up an element which expands to extend the needle into the carb, to close off the fuel circuit.

Simply removing the choke assy, and making a gasket will NOT close off the internal choke(enrichenning) passage. It takes the solenoid(electric choke) "needle" to do that. Dissassemble the choke assy, insert the needle, and make a cover that will apply some pressure to it, holding it closed, and your carb is now chokeless. DO NOT put any silicone, epoxy, JB weld or any other substance INSIDE the plunger?needle passage, it will stopp up MORE than you want or need, effectively ruining the carb. The best solution is use the electric choke. I have been for years on stock to wild stroker motors, and never had a problem.

maybe I should fire up the lathe and make a few choke eliminator kits to sell, just so everyone that wants to run chokeless can....HMMMMMMMMM.....
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  #12  
Old 06-21-2012, 07:56 AM
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Kliff,i did the gasket mod and it works.What your saying will work also.A gasket WILL bypass all the choke passages because it closes them off.
Unless I am missing something and only think it run good again.
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  #13  
Old 06-21-2012, 09:11 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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Well the one that is on this Trantula is shot.Have tried to find one ,the only ones are to big for my carb.(the barrel is 17.96 -17.97mm)any help.I think it will take a H053-033.

HEELLLLLPPPPPPP
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  #14  
Old 06-21-2012, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roysheepdog View Post
Kliff,i did the gasket mod and it works.What your saying will work also.A gasket WILL bypass all the choke passages because it closes them off.
Unless I am missing something and only think it run good again.
Interesting, guess I better dig out the ole note book, and pull a carb down, to re-examine. The memory ain't what it used to be, and I certainly can be mistaken....LOL, I've been wrong before...may be wrong again. I'll get back to you...LOL
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  #15  
Old 06-21-2012, 01:10 PM
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I dident know about it ether,I read about it and gave it a try.A free fix is better than spending more $$$$!
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  #16  
Old 06-21-2012, 11:48 PM
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If you remove the choke by removing the two screws in the carburetor body, you will see a little 3-ring o-ring setup. simply putting a little drilled blank plate over this o-ring will bypass the choke.

Prior to ordering your cam, make sure your engine uses a 4-bolt valve cover. If you have a 2-bolt "B" engine there few cam options that will fit.
  #17  
Old 06-22-2012, 12:30 AM
furball751 furball751 is offline
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I like the info on the choke, thanks, I will do something with it when it is needed. How about some wisdom about different cams, that is one of the things I'm looking at doing. And I can't find much good info. Any info would be helpfull. Thanks
  #18  
Old 06-22-2012, 12:48 AM
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Generally the higher number cams favor torque and the lower number favor horsepower - An A10 is about even balance of both. My Yerf ran hills well with an A12, but it was not fast.
  #19  
Old 06-22-2012, 08:25 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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With the plate over the choke holes make it hard to start and warm up
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  #20  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:00 AM
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Yes.
  #21  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:19 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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That i don't need.I have tried to find one but cannot get anyone to give me the size of the barrel.I need 17.96 or 17.97mm.
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  #22  
Old 06-22-2012, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zapper View Post
That i don't need.I have tried to find one but cannot get anyone to give me the size of the barrel.I need 17.96 or 17.97mm.
I, for one, just don't understand what you are referring to, when you give the size of the barrel. Probably just a nomenclature thing, but I'm lost. Can you post a pic, and show me what you're referring to?
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  #23  
Old 06-22-2012, 10:27 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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The round piece that holds the needle that is suposed to close after warm up
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  #24  
Old 06-22-2012, 10:28 AM
Zapper Zapper is offline
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Has o ring that seal i guess
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  #25  
Old 06-22-2012, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
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The round piece that holds the needle that is suposed to close after warm up
OK, I'm with you now, the actual body of the solenoid. When I go out to the sop, later this afternoon, I'll see if I have a spare laying around.
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  #26  
Old 06-22-2012, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
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With the plate over the choke holes make it hard to start and warm up
Mine is not hard to start.Pump the gas a few times and it start right up.
Im not saying it better than having a choke,its not.But it will work just fine and its a free fix.
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  #27  
Old 06-22-2012, 02:36 PM
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It may be easier to start in warmer climates. We average 60 degrees through the year and can't wait for a snow day in the winter. There's no way we are giving that up because we don't have choke. Right now it's after noon and only 55 degrees.
 


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