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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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Finally got around to working on my 6150!
Hi! Long time lurker, first time poster (in years, anyway) I've had a ASW 6150 bought not running in '12 for 3 or 4 hundred bucks I got running. Navy moved me from GA to VA and I left it in FL for the (very) occasional drive. Now, recently back to VA I moved it up to where I live now which has miles of trails around my house.
So! I got some parts and set to work. New oil for the motor and gear oil to kick it off and I did the following: 1)Replaced the CDI last night with a supposed racing one with an adjustment screw that is supposed to modify the timing. Haven't touched it but am interested if anyone has any experience w/them. I've found limited practical info on making adjustments. I have an old Z car and I've Advan Ed the timing before on it years back. Anyway, took it out for a test run that night and it seemed the same as ever, though I feel like the engine responds better (no occasional backfire) when I come off the throttle. 2)This morning I installed 12gram sliders in place of the stock rollers. I have read they're 13gram stock. 3) Additionally I rejeted the carb. I was expecting a 108 but found a 114. From all my reading I decided on a 130 jet. I have a set of 10 that range from around 100 to 140. 4)Finally, I have put a uni-filter on Took the cart out this afternoon before I drove down to FL (not in the go kart!) for the weekend. She started up well but I guess I overjeted, as I'm making a little bit of smoke and smells gassy. I was hoping for a little more off the line response, though it seemed to hold RPMs a little higher, longer. I may go with lighter sliders again. Everything I saw was that the 12g slider would react like a 10g roller. Hoping it running way rich is robbing some power. Just gotta settle on whether I'll go to a 125 or down to a 120. Any suggestions appreciated. Anyways, just looking to try to have a modded climbing ability a little better and retain the 35-40 mph flat out it'll do. My kids are 5, 4 and 1 and are enjoying going for rides. I actually got them a dune racer power wheel w/an 18v battery setup they can hit probably 8 mph on. All the fun toys I never got to have as I kid... It's never too late to play with toys and have fun! |
#2
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Glad to hear u got it running, with a 130 main jet you are definitely rich. I saw you said you put an after market intake on I'm guessing that's your only power mod. I would say since it's summer time and I have no idea what elevation you are at I would start with a 115 main-118 main and make sure u have the fuel mixture screw 2- 2.5 turns out and go from there. Post some pics if you can.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#3
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Will do. Just got back home a bit ago. I was 114 stock. Think I'll try a 120 and read the plug. I don't think I have a 118 on hand as I'm pretty sure the set was in increments of 5. I read up on how to set the air/fuel mix so I'll do that at the same time and see how it goes.
I tried the CDI alone before I messed w/anything else and that seemed fine. Probably should have done e the rest one at a time to not have so many different variables but... you know, you get in a groove and all of sudden all your parts are in without a test run in-between. Haven't come up with much in the way of tuning the CDIs timing by reading online so that'll be my next adventure this week after I get the jet right. |
#4
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If you did a uni, i would go with a 125. If you add the exhaust later (like an FMF or similar) you'll wind upmwith a 140 or so believe it or not. We've done extensive testing with these things. Also change your driven clutch spring to the yellow middle ratd big spring and for us that and the 12g's that you already have were the best combination.
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#5
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Look at this old thread and look at the pic in post 18 for what our plug looked like:
http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76 |
#6
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I understand a air cooled engine is suppose to have a slightly higher jetting then a liquid cooled, but a 140 main is huge for a 150cc with a intake and exhaust. I've done tons and tons of tuning with the main jet and I don't even use a 140, with a intake, exhaust, a big valve ported head, camshaft, and I'm at sea level. That goes for the current engine I have and the engine I put together when I had the yerf. Buggy master not saying ur wrong but every time I tried a 140 my plug would get fouled up from being way to rich and the buggy wouldn't perform well. I purchased a wide band kit which I can't wait to install to see the exact results of where I am. I know every buggy is different and we all live in different locations. Weather also plays a big part when you tune the buggy also.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#7
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That is just for the american sportworks machines. I don't know what it is about their carbs but they are unique in the buggy world. I suspect it's the way the passages are ported. They start with a 114 and I have seen more than a few with a bright white tip on the plug. Again...just the American Sportworks machines the 6150's and the 7150's. Our machine with cam, UNI, and FMF if I remember right we wound up with a 146 or something. Can't remember exactly...have to look at that thread.
I should also note that we did a ton of testing with a wide band O2 sensor stuffed in the exhaust. I have a thread on that somewhere too. |
#8
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Actually I re-read my thread and it took a 150!!! Like I said...something about those carbs.
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#9
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150 main jet is ridiclious big lol.
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#10
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150 main jet on a 150cc??? Whoa...That's crazy.
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2010 Carter Interceptor GTR 300 2010 Hammerhead 250 SS 2015 Kandi 49FM5 110cc 2015 Hammerhead GTS 250-SOLD 2008 Kazuma Coyote 150-SOLD |
#11
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Being involved with a international company producing industrial vehicles, I see a lot of this sort of thing. We source out thousands of parts from all over the world. Cost is a major consideration when awarding a bid from a suppler. quality is always a compromise. Most likely American Sportsworks found some company sitting on a bunch of carbs originally designed for some obscure small cc 4 stroke. They did a little R&D. The ports and the needle/seat were smaller but The carb fits fine and all they had to do was change the jetting some to put it in a marginally acceptable range. Did the carb produce optimum performance or ideal compatibility? No, but the cost per unit looked great on the bottom line! I'm thinking of a line from a movie, some astronauts siting in a rocket! " We're sitting on top of 10,000 gallons of rocket fuel in a machine with a million different parts supplied by the lowest bidder!"
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#12
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It ran perfect too! The picture below is the spark plug with that 150. Only these machines though. I had a baja 150 which if I remember right had a 108 factory. Added some minor mods and tried a 114 and it was too much. Choked it out.
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#13
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Just got back into messing with the go kart today. Old Z car and clearing the back of the property has been my top projects lately. I put a 120 in and will try that out. Have 125-140 available in increments of 5 to try. Will report back.
Other question: do aftermarket exhausts for gy6s, which I expect to be mostly for scooters fit these karts or do you have to buy one specific to yours? Only thing Google search gave me was a hammerhead product as I recall. Something to the tune of $250, which IMO is mad for a foot or two of pipe and a little muffler. |
#14
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I personally have the hammerhead, it is pricey, but it is pretty good quality. It is loud, but I love the sound of it when u hit the throttle. Looks good also won't rust, and performance there was a little gain but not to much, but it matches with a Performance head, cam, and intake.
__________________
Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
#15
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Carts running pretty good at 120. Plug looking good. I may try a 125 to see but as of now it's going good.
I do think going to the sliders and uni made a substantial difference in its low end pickup so it isn't gutless like it'd been. Riding on a trail, I high centered it while I was trying it out so the next thing may be bigger tires. I know that'll, in turn raise the effective gearing so a hunt for a little more power, cam, or lower gear may be in order. |
#16
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Been running hard on and off the last few months. Tore fenders off a few times. Burning a touch of oil and figure a teardown may be in order. Also saw today my muffler and pipe are separating. Curious if any of the scooter exhausts for a gy6 work or if the orientation is off? Having lots of fun but am not interested in spending 200+ on exhaust. Looked at a couple websites but they are out of the replacement exhaust. Bit of rust and wear on the current muffler so I don't know it'll do much good to keep it.
Performance is good but I'm actually a fan of quiet exhaust. Like to take my kids, 6, 4 and 2 on rides and they don't like the noise. Suggestions appreciated. |
#17
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can anyone help out wiring pictures, im trying to rewire. but I cant find good pictures...
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#18
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What are you trying to wire? Different karts have different wiring.
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