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150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
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Couple of issues a day after mods to the Carbide
Took my son out in the freezing cold today to see how the Carbide did with the mods (Unit-filter, 130 jet, 12 gram sliders) at the local sand pit. Overall it ran great and definitly pull harder from takeoff however it stalls every once in a while when coming to a stop unless you give it some gas. I searched on here and found a thread about the fuel air mixture. Also if the cart is running at idle and you shake/wiggle the roll gage the engine dies..........not a violent shake either. Any ideas.
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#2
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I was going to suggest that the engine isn't idling fast enough, but that doesn't really make sense.
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#3
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I think the cage thing might be coincidence. You will very likely need to make an adjustment on the air fuel mixture screw. Adding the UNI changes the air flow geometry slightly even at idle. Essentially, you are pulling in more air at idle than you were before so it makes sense that your old air mixture screw setting may not cut it.
You'll just need to tinker with it to find the sweet spot. Also, the cold air will have a bearing. |
#4
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Can't the same thing be achieved by rejetting the engine?
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-JoshMy Ride: ASW Carbide Mods: Dr. Pulley Hit Clutch FMF Slip-On Exhaust No Rev. CDI Uni Air Filter 130 Main jet 1500 RPM main clutch spring 11g sliders 75w Halogen Headlights CARBIDE! |
#5
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check all your electrical connections. they are notorious for working loose, especialy while your moving the wiring around while working. bad connections give the same symptoms as faulty air/fuel except the symtoms come and go whereas a true air/fuel problem is constant. check for good ground at cdi and coil.
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#6
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Your idle is handled by it's own little circuit in the carb seperate from the main jet.
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#7
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Buggymaster, I found a previous post of yours regarding the air/fuel mixture screw. The picture you posted looks exactly like our carb except where you point out the air/fuel screw mine appears to have what looks to me like a lead cover or even filled in with lead. Is the screw under that? Is that just a cover? If infact there is a screw there, how do I make the adjustment, is there a start point or a number of turns from bottoming it out to start at? Also I pulled the spark plug prior to rejetting cleaned it, checked the gap and reinstalled. Today I pulled it again just to see how it looked going from a 108 jet (yes a 108 came factory in our carbide) to a 130 jet. As you can guess the plug was completely black, looks to be running rich. Should I jet down to a 127???
Thanks for all your help |
#8
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Yes, the mixture screw is behind that little plug. I typically take them out when I have the carb in my hand. Based on your plug reading, you are going to need to rejet your main anyways. While you have the carb out, you actually get a little drill bit and a self tapping screw. Drill just enough to get through that cover, then thread the screw into the hole where it gets a good bite and use the screw to pull that cover out.
Yours is the first one I have heard of to have a 108 main jet in it. I would step down to a 125 and see how that looks. The 130 is a good jet with your mods for the typical carbide that comes with a 114 main. |
#9
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Buggymaster, thanks for the quick reply. I will call a supporting vendor and get another jet sent my way. Do you have any advice for a reference point when adjusting the fuel/air mixture screw? I too was surprised about the 108 jet but its stamped right there on top of it. I know that this cold weather we are having could be affecting the carb as well.
Thanks again |
#10
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I am really wondering if with your buggy they had an issue with and ordered a carb for it. I've seen them brand new with a carb issue that was due to bad machining. Point of that being that the only fix was to replace the carb. The place where I get my parts from has carbs that come with a 108 main jet. It is not uncommon for Tractor Supply to have an issue and have it fixed local.
Generally speaking, to adjust the air mixture screw start out with 1.5 turns out from bottomed out. The buggy should be warmed up. Experiment with turning the screw in or out until you get the best idle. |
#11
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Really no telling if Tractor supply did anything with it or not. I only had 2 miles on it with I bought it but who knows. Right now it idles fine but we do have to push the gas pedal just a bit to get it to start almost every time. Once running it seems to idle up then back down. I have adjusted the idle screw (the one with the spring) a couple times but it we still have to give it gas to start. Once I get another jet installed I'll make the adjustment and see what happens.
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#12
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According to the jet size in the carb, that carb was intended for a scooter. same carb but different setup. Carbs for Buggys normaly start in the low teens, I have ran into this problem before, buying carbs of ebay. The low idle jet should be changed out also. [next to the main, this one has a tube out the end with tiny holes in the side] there should be a number on the side. If memory serves me it should read 35 to 37. The scooter idle jet is also too lean. Explains the stalling issue. Getting this jet is a pain. you have to go through a kehin distributor [a motorcycle dealership] take the carb with you! the kid behind the counter won't have a clue! I can give you all the pertanant numbers for quick identification if you can hold out for a while. I won't be at my resources for a few more days. I've had enough cold weather, I went south for a while
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#13
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You can check with a honda dealer if you have one near by. Thats where i got my jets from when i was having issues with my helix
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