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| 150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
07-19-2016, 06:12 PM
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I swear this thing is gonna be the death of me.
Hey guys, so I've been having trouble with the exhaust studs staying in. Well, I broke one of them so I ordered a new head (which was somehow cheaper with the cylinder kit as well). All put back together, rode it around for a while, and it got louder again. So I looked underneath and one of the exhaust nuts had fallen off. Also noticed I have a pretty extensive oil leak from the gasket on the side crankcase cover. Anyone have tips on what to do to keep the exhaust in place? I've tried a jam nut before and lock tight (blue) and neither worked for very long. I'm about to drill holes in the nuts or studs and put a wire through them like they do on race cars. Also noticed the driver's lower control arm needs to be replaced (bottom spindle hole is walleyed pretty badly). About ready to just tear the engine out and rebuild the whole thing and blow this thing apart to repaint it since it was once red and now it's more of a pink color thanks to the previous owner storing it outside all the time.
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#2
07-19-2016, 06:49 PM
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Have you tried a nylock nut? It may be getting lose because if the expansion/contraction of the metal as it heats and cools. It's it being tightened enough?
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#3
07-19-2016, 07:56 PM
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nylock will just melt. if the studs have not come loose, install the nuts, run the engine til it's warmed up, tighten the nuts again. then, take a second nut and run it against the first. Hold the first nut with a wrench while you tighten the second nut into it. that's a double jam nut. should end your issue.
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#4
07-19-2016, 08:53 PM
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Is your exhaust properly supported? Seems odd that you're having that issue
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
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#6
07-20-2016, 09:28 AM
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Probably why most factory original application's use a flanged long acorn nut - more surface / thread contact area to maintain the torque . Also if your using stainless studs and nuts , I've heard it said , hard to maintain torque -- doesn't get the " crush " on the thread because of the hardness .
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2011 BMS KING COBRA 150 Sold YERF DOG SPIDERBOX's Sold YERF DOG 3203's. Sold MANCO SILVER FOX. Sold 2009 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4 2002 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4 2000 POLARIS MAGNUM 2X4 HALF A DOZEN CHEVY 4X4's NEED-MO-BUGGY 
Last edited by OLDKID; 07-20-2016 at 09:38 AM. Reason: detail again |
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#8
07-28-2016, 08:52 PM
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Could be over torquing them and stretching the stud. Once the yield point of the material is reached, it's all down hill from there. As you broke one after having repeated trouble....this might be what happened.
Something to consider in the event you're not using a torque wrench. Sometimes less is more. Al |
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#9
01-19-2017, 08:41 PM
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Hey,
Im a noob on here, but have you tried adding a lock washer under the nut? I hadnt seen that suggestion used. |
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