Yerf Dog 3203 Brake Band to Disk Brake Walkthrough w/Pictures!!!

[gran_pann]

This was my first real welding project since I got my first stick/tig welder. Brakes work GREAT! There are probably other ways to do it, but this worked for me.


First, pull off the drivers side wheel, and brake band. If the wheel is hard to get off, use some penetrating oil, and a big hammer. If the disk brake wont budge, just cut it off with an angle grinder.



Next, buy a 6" disk brake with 1" bore (I purchased a Comet 212369A , and a mechanical brake caliper (carlisle 11125 caliper). Slide the disk brake on, and set the caliper so the pads are as far out on the disk as possible. Make sure the lever can move back and forth freely without hitting the bearing hanger. Mark around the bearing hanger where the caliper will sit. Grind it out. Drill two 5/16ths holes through the bearing hanger/flangettes, and bolt them in. This will help stabilize the flangettes with the steel you just removed.



Get a long flat bar of 3/16ths steel, make the bracket and bracing for the bracket. (you could probably go 1/8ths for the bracing, but the bracket should be 3/16ths.



Now you should tighten the caliper to the exact spot you would like it to be when the bracing is all welded together. Weld up the bracing first, then as the final step, well the bracket to the bracing. Make sure you have enough clearance from the tire, when the welding is complete, the bracket and brake should fit inside of the wheel well just a little bit. put the tire on just to double check.



Take one end of the original brake cable, and weld some metal onto the hole of one end (try not to breathe the zinc fumes cough cough). Drill a 1/4" hole through it and grind it down flat to original thickness. This will be the end that fits onto the brake lever.



Cut off the three brackets holding the brake cable and brake rod onto the go kart. Starting at the brake hanger, align the bracket with the brake lever. You may want to reinforce the bracket with a little more steel, but it isn't necessary. Weld the next bracket on the square tubing. Make sure that the nuts on the brake cable housing are backed in against the housing in case the cable needs to be adjusted later on after stretching. I used a few inches of 1/4" rod and welded it together (not pictured) to lengthen the rod. You could always buy a (1/4 inch or 5/16ths not sure double check) threaded rod and a threaded rod nut to accomplish this.



Sand, prime, and paint everything. Put key stock back in the keyways FIRST, then tap the disk brakes on, repeat for the wheel.



This is where it sits when its finished. Stomp on the brakes and it will slide. Fits neatly close to the tire so there is less chance of hitting it on a rock if it were in another spot. Im sure there are other ways of doing it, but this worked out great for me!

Here is a list of stuff that i used/bought to accomplish this. all of which I bought at home depot (minus brake disk and caliper)

Supplies
~1 ft of 1/4 rod (can use threaded rod and a threaded rod long nut as well.)
3/16ths inch barstock
One 1/4 inch grade 8 bolt with three 1/4" washers, and nylock nut
Two 5/16ths inch grade 8 bolts with nylock nuts.
disk caliper carlisle 11125 caliper
disk brake Comet 212369A

Tools
chop/abrasive saw
hand drill with 5/16ths and 1/4 drill bit
vise
wrenches,
angle grinder
sand paper
TIG welder w/ welding magnets (I'm sure its possible to MIG it as well, but I have only used a TIG welder)

I also replaced the engine, and axle bearings while I was at it. Thanks for looking.