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| 150cc GY6 and Under Engine Tech GY6 and Smaller Technical Discussion Forum |
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#1
06-07-2016, 08:52 PM
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Spoke too soon
I put the new battery in with the new cylinder piston head etc on. and it started right up. However i noticed it was leaking oil out of the base of the cylinder. do I need to tear it all down again and put new gaskets in again? Or can I pull the head and maybe tighten up the cylinder a bit more. I really do not want to tear the engine apart again if I can avoid it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
06-07-2016, 11:04 PM
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Not knowing what machine you're asking about, I can assume you have a 150?
If so, are you sure your oil gallery hole between the engine case and cyl aren't blocked? It's a small gallery. I would think you need to remove the cyl and see what's going on. It's not normal for oil to come out of the base gasket.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
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#3
06-08-2016, 07:57 AM
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Yes I have a gy6 motor I apologize for not having that in the post. I odered another set of top end gaskets for the motor I guess as soon as they arrive I will tear the motor back down. The only thing I can think of is maybe I forgot to scrape off the old gasket material from the crank case. or I missed a bit of it or something like that. Can I add a little rtv to the new gasket to ensure a good seal?
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#4
06-08-2016, 11:47 AM
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Make sure and remove the access screw from the chain tensioner and make sure the o-ring is in tensioner. If not it will leak and run down the engine. Also not knowing which GY6 you have and how old, some older models had a chrome 6mm screw in cylinder that seems to go to nowhere. If so make sure it is tight and has the gasket. Either one will give the appearance of leaking from the base of cylinder.
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#5
06-08-2016, 11:58 AM
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I have a kandi 150 from 2008 not sure of any other specifics on the cart though.
got a darn oil leak at the bottom of the cylinder where the case clamps together. At first I thought maybe I forgot to clean the old gasket material off which is pretty unlikely. After perusing the almighty internet it seems others have had the same leak at the cylinder gasket at the point where the crankcase bolts together and they fixed it with a little rtv. I already ordered new gaskets and they are on the way. However since I don't have to pull it totally apart to try a dab of rtv where it is leaking I think I will give the rtv a shot. If it works great I will have a spare gasket set if it does not well I will have to put new gaskets in the darn thing anyways. |
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#6
06-08-2016, 12:27 PM
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I removed the whole tensioner with the 2 bolts as the tensioner adjustment screw was stuck when i took the motor apart. I decided to leave well enough alone with that but I also checked for leaks there as well. I will recheck just to be sure. thanks for the suggestion.
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#7
06-08-2016, 09:24 PM
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You can try the RTV, just don't go crazy with it. That oil gallery hole I spoke of can get plugged up with it.
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My Yerban assault vehicle: 2.2mm stroker crank, 62mm Nikasil cyl, Taida large vavle head, American made valve springs, ported intake manifold, TM 28mm carb, stock CDI, Bando coil, TK exhaust, stock CVT except for the 14g sliders, 13/40 internal gears, 16T drive, 31T axle sprocket, 22" rear tires, and ONE BIG POTATO CANNON mounted on top.......... |
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#8
06-08-2016, 09:54 PM
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could be a bunch of things that caused that leak without seeing it in person. Liked u mentioned make sure everything is cleaned with a degreaser before laying the gasket down. Another tip are you torqueing the head bolts? should be tq them I believe its 14pounds and do it in a star pattern to achieve a even placement. With that I hand tighten the 4 main head bolts in star pattern then once then start getting some tension I tighten down the 2 side guide bolts, then go back to the 4 main bolts and tq them down.
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Hammer head Single seater know as herbie under construction Aluminum fuel tank, aluminum wheels, custom fuel/cargo rack, entire rewire, trail tech vapor, ported big valve head, a12camshaft, 12 gram sliders, straight intake, kirkey wide seat, front end extension. 4 point harness, welded cage. Hammerhead exhaust. Blade Single Seater Restore welded cage, engine build, new wiring harness/electric box, spun aluminum fuel tank. |
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#9
06-09-2016, 08:06 AM
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i pulled it apart again last night the surface was clean but I cleaned it again to get any oil i could off.i then put a thin layer of the rtv on the gasket itself and a little layer on the problem area just to be safe I also did the upper split as well. upon inspection I also found a small leak at the tensioner gasket. since I did not have a spare gasket I applied a little rtv on that used gasket as well. lets hope this thing is oil tight. I really do not feel like fighting the darn rings back into that cylinder again it was a pain in the neck. I tried to go sparingly with the trv I personally hate when I see peoples work with big globs of it sticking out of gasket areas drives me nuts.
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#10
06-16-2016, 08:05 AM
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Finally got the Buggy running last night. I retimed it again as well as gapped the rockers etc. it still ran poorly needing half throttle to stay running etc. So for grins I pulled the vacuum lin off of the fuel tank and covered it and it idled perfect. If I hit the gas it bogged from fuel starvation however it lead me to the real problem. I had the original fuel valve in a box so I pulled it out took the seal and sock off the new one and installed. Final result it fires on first crank and idles perfectly. I have not driven it yet but ran it in the garage as I completed it late and it would have been a bad thing to wake the kids up on a school night. Thanks to all who helped me out with this rebuild.
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