Whatcha think?

[bear]

So i was just wondering, has anyone else tried this "redneck ramiar" on there buggy's or is this a first for me?

[rebellinredneck]

I haven't tried it yet but plan to. I'm gonna do it a lil different tho. I'm gonna make a roof outa high density plastic, and make a scoop and mount it to the roof and duct the air down to the engine.

[bear]

Yea i think im going to mockup a more form fitting one out of cardbaord and then fab it out of fiberglass resin n cloth?

[rebellinredneck]

I think I might make mine out of sheet metal mainly cause I'm an hvac tech and have access to plenty of it at a great price, free.

[x-bird]

I think your idea is a sound one; i wouldn't go quite as far as to call it ram air, (talking as a Pontiac muscle car gearhead) as while you are likely putting more air into the engine area for the intake to draw from, it may not be coming in at a much greater pressure and the CV carbs as we've seen from people trying to snorkel them, don't seem to like having long, sealed air feed tracts. The carb is basically going to drawn in air at the rate it's designed for. Once the air dumps out of the tubing, it'll revert back to atmospheric pressure pretty quickly--if it hasn't done that inside already.

If its location is creating a pressure differential at speed because of "blockage" with less available air, then the ram air would work. Same holds true for air temp--if the surrounding air is hotter because of the engine, then the fresh/cooler feed would help.

In automotive applications, the idea of scoops and ram air was largely marketing. One of the most iconic air feeds, the shaker hood scoop on the 70-81 Trans Am was one of the worst designs--and they knew it. The Formula model with its pair of forward facing "nostrils" took air in off a higher pressure boundary layer at the leading edge of the hood and worked very well. It should have gone on the T/A, the engineers wanted it but got the shaker instead. the shaker opening faces rearward and sits at the middle of the hood where there's no pressure differential to take advantage of. If it had been at the base of the windshield like a cowl induction hood, it would have worked well. However, that location required too much tooling. The "Wow factor" trumped sound engineering and it became the T/A's hood scoop with an easy punch out hole in the stock hood. The air cleaner base also had a single snorkel that fed off a duct to the radiator panel area for it's primary source. the shaker didn't open until the secondaries kicked in and in 73 it was sealed and was nothing more than a "looks" item. the Formula hood had ducting that fed in direct to the air cleaner pan and was true Ram Air. Best way to mod the T/As cars is to feed a pair of ducts off firewall (drill monster holes) in the cowl vent area at the base of the windshield where incoming air is compressed inside the cowl structure and pressure increases.

It's worth experimenting with though, very difficult to judge whether there's a true power increase. if there is, it's because of air temp or overly turbulent air around the carburetor.

[rebellinredneck]

I ain't really aiming at more power which would be great, my main goal is a cooler engine. I ain't ducting it to the intake just over the top of the engine to force air over the motor to help keep it cool due to the seats being in the way an not allowing much air to pass therefore making the engine hotter.

[bear]

Ditto!

[x-bird]

if that's the case, you could run one directly into the fan intake on the side of the engine and another like i did directly into the CVT intake boot. With the shrouds on the engine, you won't cool at much bringing air into the general area. If you put a fresh supply right into the side of the fan case, it would be much more effective.

[rebellinredneck]

Thanks for the insight x-bird. What did you use for the duct?

[x-bird]

Removed the plastic disc with 4 holes in the intake and pushed narrow style shop vac hose into the opening---pool filter hose should also work.

Pics on post #461 below
http://www.buggymasters.com/forum/sh...?t=2243&page=5

[bear]

Thats a great idea for the bigger buggy's!!!

[ckau]

Actually the seats don't block as much air as one would think, as long as your moving! Sitting still, idleing is the worst thing to do!
We were riding some old coal strip mine property up in PA. There were these beds of fine powder coal dust. When we drove through them it was like smoke in a wind tunnel. You could observe how the air moved around the buggys. The air hits the front of the seats then curls around behind in a vortex sort of thing. Kinda like how the air travels over the roof and blows back through the rear window of a station wagon or pickup truck. Some body panels on the frame next to the seats would help channel the air more effectivly. No matter what you do as long as your not moving there's no air flow.
Ducting the CVT, as X-Bird suggested is a real effective way to help keep temps down.

[bear]

Yea, but this was added to a little 110 buggy with an open finned head, and the outside air really seems to have helped on the long outtings.

[MASTERBATES]

LISTEN!!!!!! the stock air box that came on my tomberlin 150 crossfire had round air openings on each side.what i am about to describe may seem a little con fusing but bear with me please. standing at the rear of the buggy looking down at the airbox. on the left side round opening,i routed 2" flex hose to the cvt air inlet sidecase. inside the airbox i made a 45 degree angle or maybe a lil less, a flap that split the air guiding it more towards the the intake tube of the carborator. on the right side of the airbox i took 2" flex hose and routed it up the frame and attached a wide mouth shopvac end onto my roof. it was a pretty inpressive gain by itself. the fan in the cvt pulley combined with the ramair with a spliter in the airbox. i had good outcome with this setup. this was not installed on a tomberlin crossfire though. i had the airbox left over, and put it on my modified HH150. i will post pictures of this setup as soon as i can get around to it. i would be willing to even make my own air box from scratch if i could route it the same way. trust me the gains were pretty sweet. i gues you could call it a "REDNECK SUPERCHARGER

[Rarerat]

I've done something similar to my Pilot & daughters 350 Odyssey, only I added K&N filters as prefilters. There was a noticeable power increase, but the biggest benefit is the addition filtration. I used to clean the filter in the air box after every second ride or if I spent much time following someone else after every ride. Since doing the prefilter mod I can go months without having to clean filter in the air box, & when I open it up the filter looks freshly cleaned.




On our side by side I went a little different route and added the dual prefilters but just mounted then directly to the air box with out the hose.



I think our Yerf would really benefit from this simple mod because the filter is so low to the ground and right in the middle of all the dust kicked up by the rear tires. Especially after adding the Uni to it, the filter is filthy after each ride. When I get some time, I would like to build a new air box for it and then add the dual prefilters up high out of the dust trail as well.

[SLESTAK75]

Why not just go ahead and hook the other ends of those vacuum hoses to the outlet of a shop vac, find a way to power it and call it a " redneck TURBO".

[SLESTAK75]

Seriously though. Thats a nice lookin setup Rarerat.

[x-bird]

hmmm, think "leafblowers" and there may be a realistic supercharger for a 150. I woulnder how far i could push my sym engine?

[SLESTAK75]

I here the wheels of invetion starting to crank.