Kandi GKM-3 rear sprocket removal??

[stamp4]

Hey guys.
I am a newb here and just found this site a week ago. We have recently purchased a new Kandi GKM-3. Awesome buggy and we have had no issues with it yet and we run it pretty hard!! A was looking at the rear drive sprocket and thinking about replacing it with a lil bigger one from the local farm store. They have many #50 industrial ones to choose from for more low end pulling power. First question is will the #50 industrial sprocket be the same pitch for the chain that comes on these karts? Im assuming they must be #530 motorcycle chain on these from the factory. SECOND question is I can't figure out for the life of me how you remove the sprocket (or the brake disc) from the axle once you unbolt them from the 4 bolt holders that are welded solid to the axle? It almost appears that they assembled the axle complety and then slid the bearings and bearing carriers on each end, bolted them to the hanger, THEN welded the hanger to the box swing arm on the rear. Even if I remove the 3 bolt bearing carriers and bearings, there wont be enough room to slide the axles out of either side because the sprocket hub and the disc hub that are welded to the axle wont fit through the hole where the bearings are. Not near big enough. Do you have to cut the bearing hanger off one side to remove the axle and slide the sprocket off and then reweld it or what??? Please any feedback is really appreciated guys.

[liduno]

530 and #50 will interchange. As far as getting the axle off, can you remove the bearing from the axle?

I'm surprised the bearing mount that's welded to the frame doesn't have an opening at the bottom. Could you maybe cut a slot on one side big enough to lower one side of the axle?

[stamp4]

Thanks for the reply laduno!
The bearings can be slid off the end of the axles after the wheels, and 3 bolts are removed from the flanges that hold the bearings to the hangers but the hangers ARE 1 solid piece without any slots in them, Just a big square with a hole in the center just big enough for the bearings.?!! NO way the sprocket or brake disc hub will fit through em. They are a cross shape with a bolt in the end of each "arm". I quess cutting a section for the axle to drop through may work but Im not sure it if will weaken the hanger or cause the bearing to not want to stay seated.? I am a cert. welder and have a mig so welding is no biggie, but just thought there had to be a better way, maybe!! LOL.

[liduno]

I would ''think'' once you remove the bearing, you could slide the axle all the way to one side. That ''should'' allow you to get the other end out of the bearing mount.

[stamp4]

LOL!! Your exactly right. After sitting and studying it for about 15 min. last nite, I finally figured it out. The hubs that are welded to the axles are offset farther to the right of the axle ( as viewed from the rear). I will just have to remove the rear tires and wheels, brake caliper, and the axle flanges and the axle will slide far enough the the left to get the right to drop out of the hanger, then drop it below the hanger and slide it to the right and out. Man do I feel really dumb right now...Thanks liduno!!

[liduno]

We've all been stumped by something simple..lol

[wildbob]

You folks should have seen me battle with the rear axle bearing housings on my trailmaster...