150cc Reaction Buggy starting and then suddenly dying!

[lpfullmetal]

Hey forum, A newbie here.

So I just picked up a 150cc Reaction Buggy. I bought it used knowing it had a problem. The guy I got it from said it probably needs some adjusting; valves, timing, carb, but that is what the guy who sold out to him said.do I'm not sure.

It will fire up within a second and die within 3-5 seconds. I try to give it gas while it's running but it only makes it fire quicker.

Any thoughts?

[zman007007]

sounds like either your auto choke is not working or the carb. could use a good cleaning.

[TheFauxFox]

If there is a problem with the auto-choke, typically it presents itself within a few minutes, not seconds (as far as I've heard...) but it could just be the auto-choke not working at all? See if carb-cleaner does anything when you start? I'm wondering if maybe that'll help enrich it and if it runs more 'enriched' than maybe it's a jetting/choke issue...

[x-bird]

check your ignition switch. same buggy, same sounding problem. found that the switch would click off the run spot a tiny bit and die. try holding it on after it starts (be careful you don't keep the starter running) and drive a little bit holding the key. if it runs til you let go of the key, it's the switch.

[zman007007]

the auto choke could be stuck in either open or closed position thus causing it to flood or either not priming the engine for gas like it should. thus could effect the engine right away or in a few minutes.

[lpfullmetal]

Well I messed around a little bit with the ignition and kill switch, with the kill switch in the iff position it will still start. And when I played with the key it ran for about 10 seconds, so in gonna go to napa and pick up a new ignition switch and try it out. Wish me luck.

[lpfullmetal]

So I got a new starter switch, put out in. She started up strong and then would die in about 10 to 15 seconds. But now when she's started I can give it gas and she revs up but soon dies after. By feathering the throttle I can keep her running a little longer. Maybe a carb issue?

[zman007007]

still sounds like the carb to me

[TheFauxFox]

Originally Posted by lpfullmetal

So I got a new starter switch, put out in. She started up strong and then would die in about 10 to 15 seconds. But now when she's started I can give it gas and she revs up but soon dies after. By feathering the throttle I can keep her running a little longer. Maybe a carb issue?

checked the valves? I'm leaning that it's carb but it's best to check everything!

[351mustanger]

Try running it with the gas cap off. The cap vent may be damaged. Also check to see if you are getting a good flow of fuel from the tank. I am not sure if this machine has a vacuum activated fuel valve or not. If it does, you will have to apply vacuum to the vacuum line to get fuel to flow from the fuel line. Hope that makes sense. I am thinking you have a fuel flow issue.

[zman007007]

Fox if it was the valves it prob. wouldn"t crank to begin with if they were off that bad.

[lpfullmetal]

Hey guys, so I pulled the carb off and tore it apart and found my primary jet totally clogged. So I unclogged it and have the carb a good cleaning. Put it all back together and she started right up and kept running :-). I took it out for a spin and she lasted for about 5 min before she wanted to die. Then she wouldnt want to start untill a hour later. I'm thinking auto choke. I just ordered one on Amazon a new one. Ill keep you guys posted!

[lpfullmetal]

Im back! So I got a new auto choke and put it on. Started it up and she idled for about 4-5 min and the sputtered to a stall. I pulled the fuel line off at the filter and tried blowing into it but it felt like it was blocked. Shouldnt I be able to blow through it and get gas to come out of the over flow drain hose?

[351mustanger]

Originally Posted by lpfullmetal

Im back! So I got a new auto choke and put it on. Started it up and she idled for about 4-5 min and the sputtered to a stall. I pulled the fuel line off at the filter and tried blowing into it but it felt like it was blocked. Shouldnt I be able to blow through it and get gas to come out of the over flow drain hose?

Not if the bowl is full of gas. The floats will close the inlet until some of the fuel is used. Just curious if you tried the suggestions in post #10 and what the outcome was?

[lpfullmetal]

Yes, I toom the cap off and ran it and it still died. I dont think it has a vaccum valve...how would I find this out.

[351mustanger]

Two lines coming from the valve on the bottom of the tank. The vacuum line usually connects to the intake and the other is the fuel line to the carburetor.

[lpfullmetal]

Ok, so I do not...its only one line coming out of the fuel valve

[jmansracerocket]

Trying changing the fuel valve and cleaning out the fuel tank if the buggt sat for a while outside with ild gas I bet the the fuel valve is clogged every used buggy ive bought I had to replace the fuel valve

[lpfullmetal]

Ill give that a try, and im also going to check the valve clearence as well

[jmansracerocket]

Yeah cant hurt to check the valves, but I bet the fuel petcock is clogged with crap and put a inline filter in if u dont have one already

[Miamieddie]

Make sure you have a line running from your carb. To your manifold

[351mustanger]

Originally Posted by Miamieddie

Make sure you have a line running from your carb. To your manifold

Good point. Even if the fuel valve isn't vacuum operated, the carburetor still uses vacuum to work correctly.

[Miamieddie]

Let me know if that worked... also unplug or fuel line coming from the tank. If the fuel flows out good your petcock is good. No need to replace it. Make sure fuel is flowing thru your filter also. If so your filter is good. And try adjusting your valves to .004/.006. Good luck and let us know.

[Jmanjeeper]

not sure what happened to all my post in this forum...i was gone a while and it looks like they reset to zero

ok fellas...im having the same issue. Mine sat with gas in it for the winter...I was deployed and forgot about it. I took apart the carb and sprayed it down. I couldn't get tot he jets...seemed like it was one piece. I do have something on the bottom of my fuel tank with 2 lines coming out of it. Which one is the filter go on? I had them on and fuel was not going to the filter. I switched them and the filter gets fuel only when it cranks.

i crank it up first time and it will idle for a long time...as soon as I hit the gas...it dies. please help! I am transferring soon and need to figure out if I am taking this buggy or selling it.

Model: KD-150GKA-2
Engine type : 150CC 4 STROKE All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) Go - Kart, 6.5 KW/7500 RPM

[Miamieddie]

Jmanjeeper. ....Dump the gas out.... and you need to get to your main jet and clean it.. . Actually clean your whole carb out and jets!!

[Jmanjeeper]

I already dumped the gas and cleaned the carb. I couldn't get to the main jets but after reading more last night I am going to get to the fuel bowl by making slots in the screws.

But what about the vac fuel valve?

[Miamieddie]

I'm not to familiar with vacuum type petcocks. That's why I went with gravity fed type. Less headaches.

[Miamieddie]

But I'm sure someone here will Chime in that has one.

[Jmanjeeper]

I would love to switch to a regualr fuel shutoff valve! But there are 2 fuel lines....so which one goes away and how do I cap it on the carb, lol

[SYCARMS]

That is actually a vacuum operated fuel pump. The bottom hose goes to a vacuum source on the intake. This line may actually connect to a tee but ends up at the intake. The top hose, fuel supply goes to carb. How it works is that when the piston is in its down travel a vacuum is pulled which pulls down the spring loaded diaphragm allowing fuel to flow into the chamber. As the piston starts up vacuum drops and the spring loaded diaphragm pushes the fuel into the carb. To check, first make sure the hoses are correct, remove the hose from the carb and crank the engine. Fuel should spirt out of fuel line in time with engine cranking. Usually when the go bad either the spring inside breaks and fuel stops flowing or the diaphragm ruptures in which case you will get fuel out the vacuum side of the pump. Your problem sounds to be in the carb. Sometimes due to the ethanol in the fuel from sitting the carb will get clogged. Even if the jets are clear the orifices in the carb can also plug. The best way to clean is to pick up a gallon of Berryman carb dip $13-15.00 at an auto parts store or Wal-Mart. Disassemble the carb of all rubber parts and let soak a few hours or overnight then rinse under warm water and blow dry with compressed air making sure to blow through all the small orifices. If you do decide to go with a regular petcock just plug off the vacuum line. I do have both type in stock.

[Jmanjeeper]

Thanks! I'll dig back into this thing Friday!!

[Jmanjeeper]

what is the part number for the carb on this thing...I will just buy a new one...i only have a short time to get this thing up and running

[outcrydrummer]

Jeeper just look up Kidnme Parts and order a 30mm pumper carb. ditch all the vac stuff and get a normal fuel shutoff from them when you get the carb.
If your replacing your carb you might as well upgrade.

[ChiefGeek]

I know this is an old thread, but thanks to all, I have the same prob as the original poster with my 2008 carbide 150. 😉

[x-bird]

same basics to check then, either carb or fuel feed related or electrical in the ignition circuit.

[SYCARMS]

What type of gas are you using ? With or without ethanol? Has the buggy sat for a long time ?

[ChiefGeek]

Gas has been drained and non-ethanol put in. I've started a specific thread for this bugger, errrr, buggy, I value your input Sycarms and others! ��

[ChiefGeek]

How did the original poster end up, did he find a solution?

[SYCARMS]

Have you disassembled, soaked and blown out with air the carb yet?

[ChiefGeek]

The owner of A1 Funcycles told me they did, and I'd like to trust they told me the truth. ��

[ChiefGeek]

May have found the problem tonight, removed air filter (which they say they checked, and found it DIRTY, rusted, and (not sure why), oil (and or gas), collected in the housing. I'll attach a couple pics...

[ChiefGeek]

Sorry those pics were kinda large, I thought the forum would auto resize them. Oops.

[ChiefGeek]

BTW, I found a hose unattached that runs from the front of the engine, under a aluminum (so it looks) casing, along side the carborator (sp?), and ends under the air filter housing. Should this be hooked up to something? (see pics)

[SYCARMS]

That is the crankcase vent. It was probably connected to the air box which could be why there is oil in the air box. Early models vented just like your pictures show but EPA mandated it be connected to the air box since venting to the atmosphere is warming the climate, causing the polar bears to die off due to the icecaps melting which then causes the the jet stream to push warm dry air causing drought and forest fires, hurricanes which spin off tornadoes causing shortages of food more use of food stamps rampant rise in disability from vapors coming from that little hose which leads to agressive behavior and finally war which will lead to the extermination of human and non human life leaving the earth as inhabitable as Pluto. OK took my meds now I feel better. It sounds as if you have blow-by. Do a compression test it will probably need rings.

[ChiefGeek]

The dealer/mechanic said they did a compression test and it came back 175 lbs., and that is really good?

Could the goop be old old gas that had collected and dehydrated somewhat into the state it is now in?

[ChiefGeek]

One other quick question, could blow by occur if the crankcase was overfilled after a oil change (ie. too much oil)?

[SYCARMS]

175 psi sounds high for a stock GY6 engine, I would be suspect. Yes too much oil will blow out the vent hose.

[ChiefGeek]

Well that was the problem! �� Now it runs like a beast! And of course the shifter is now outta whack. I tried to go by the service manual but it's not working. Any good posts on shifter adjustment? Also, if it's out of adjustment and I hear it grinding a lot, I'm guessing that is not good? I had to drive in reverse to get it back into the garage! ��

[SYCARMS]

Go to the American Sport Works web site,click on the owner tab at top of page then click manuals,than fun karts. On the left hand side there will be a bunch of numbered series, click 7000 a new drop down will come up click on 7150 then click on service manual. This is the best manual I've seen on any buggy. You can save it to your computer or print off a copy. This will instruct you how to do everything, transmission, engine, good illustrations and very easy to follow. You will also want to save or copy the parts breakdown. It sounds like the cluster assy and gear. Try the adjustment first, if it does not fix it get the tools out and tear it down.Read the manual first before you start tearing it down, trust someone who does this for a living. Find the bad parts look up the numbers and give me a call. I give a discount on oem ASW replacement parts to all B/M members.

[ChiefGeek]

Figured it out re. the gears, the plastic pulley that the cables connect to (to go forward, neutral, and reverse) was cracked and was slipping on the shifter that comes out of the transmission.

So, I found one on eBay for $15 with free shipping, and it's metal, not plastic!

[Miamieddie]

Compression that high your buggy must haul butt, and also run hot. The hose coming from your valve cover just let it hang down low. Don't put it back in your filter box, it'll get rid of your oil in your filter problem.