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Go Kart Engine and Torque Converter Tech Forum for discussing go kart engines and torque converters (Briggs, Tecumseh, Suburu, Comet etc)

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  #1  
Old 07-09-2015, 11:51 PM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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Default Bushing question

Ok I just purchased my first go kart. Old Yerf Dog with a tec 6hp. My son and I fixed it up but I'm having an issue replacing the bronze bushing.
Please see attached photo.
I see the bushing on the shaft ....but it's not as wide as the shaft. In addition there is a hairline crack in it. I don't know if they're supposed to be this width or not?
Regardless, it's old, cracked and burned so I order 3/4 inch off of amazon. It's much wider than what's on there. Seems right.
However it won't slide on the shaft .... It's the same diameter as the shaft it's supposed to slide on.
Is that even where the bushing goes? I'm lost. Does the belt ride on this bushing?
TIA. NEWB trying to learn
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Last edited by Tjlwolf; 07-09-2015 at 11:58 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-10-2015, 06:56 AM
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SYCARMS SYCARMS is offline
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The bronze bushing from what I remember is pressed into the outer half which allows the outer half to slide in and out on the shaft. Looking at the picture it looks as though the bushing worked itself out of the outer half.
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:40 AM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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But the bronze bushings I received will not fit on that shaft....they are the same circumference.
The bushing you see in the pic just spins on that shaft. Plus it's only about as wide as my wedding ring.
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Old 07-10-2015, 07:48 AM
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That bushing should not be seen since it is suppose to be pressed in the outer pulley. I have no clue on the new bushing, the correct bushing presses into the outer half which allows it to smoothly slide in and out on the shaft.
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:14 AM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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I got it! Its a 1" shaft so apparently it doesnt use a bushing. I just assumed it did since obviously it had one on it when i picked it up. I guess they guy before me thought it did too and somehow rigged one. Probably why it split. He mad ehis own and forced it.

Anyway.... thanks for trying to help me.
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Old 07-10-2015, 11:01 AM
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Any of the comet style ones I have come across had a bronze bushing in them sized just a few thousandths larger than the shaft, but as I said they are pressed into the outer half which moves back and forth on the shaft.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:26 PM
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Every Comet Tav 30 I've ever had has a bronze bushing that just free spins between the two halves , right at the centerline of the belt . Can't press into the outer , outer slides on a four tooth splined shaft
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2011 BMS KING COBRA 150 Sold
YERF DOG SPIDERBOX's Sold
YERF DOG 3203's. Sold
MANCO SILVER FOX. Sold
2009 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2002 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2000 POLARIS MAGNUM 2X4
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:06 PM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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Ok so there's no way a bushing can be pressed anywhere.
It would have to just freewheel on the shaft in between and the belt ride on it.
This document says no bushing on 1' shafts. See pic.

Now I'm really confused!
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Old 07-10-2015, 03:46 PM
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Yes , just like the diagram shows , between halves . It says none on 1"shaft , O.K. I believe all of my Tav 30's on 6.5 Tecumseh were 3/4 " crankshaft and all have bushings ---- 3/4 inch crankshaft .
__________________
2011 BMS KING COBRA 150 Sold
YERF DOG SPIDERBOX's Sold
YERF DOG 3203's. Sold
MANCO SILVER FOX. Sold
2009 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2002 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2000 POLARIS MAGNUM 2X4
HALF A DOZEN CHEVY 4X4's
NEED-MO-BUGGY
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:20 PM
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You are right oldkid. They just free float
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Old 07-10-2015, 04:54 PM
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Since you're new and were on the subject , you probably have a asymmetric belt -- flat on one side beveled on the other / flat side towards eng. beveled facing out / corresponding with beveled driver . There are minimum width requirements , easy check is to check the spec.'s on line of a replacement . To check length / seat belt in driven pulley , pinch belt together at crankshaft to con form evenly , should be 1/8"-1/4" free space around your brass bushing . Driver clutch maintenance is easy , disassemble (easy) , blow out dust , look for excessive wear ( compare to pic.s of new parts online) , optional - lube sliding parts with dry-graphite lubricant but not mandatory , and assemble. GOTTA GET THE DUST OUT -MAKES THEM STICK .
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2011 BMS KING COBRA 150 Sold
YERF DOG SPIDERBOX's Sold
YERF DOG 3203's. Sold
MANCO SILVER FOX. Sold
2009 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2002 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2000 POLARIS MAGNUM 2X4
HALF A DOZEN CHEVY 4X4's
NEED-MO-BUGGY

Last edited by OLDKID; 07-11-2015 at 03:33 PM. Reason: wrong spelling
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Old 07-10-2015, 05:51 PM
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Sorry for the misinformation the original thumbnail would not open so I was looking at it as is. I thought we were talking about the rear pulleys. The front does not.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:06 PM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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ive completely refurbed the driver. I'm nervous about the driven though. Needs to be done.
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Old 07-10-2015, 06:40 PM
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Sorry sir , i've never been past the cir-clip on one , tried but it's a real bugger . Had one in the vise once to change the plastic pegs (also a pain in the keester) but never got past the clip .....!!!!! By the way those plastic bump stop/ramps are super critical to its operation ---!!! Any sign of wear - replace or it will skip over and eat belts like crazy .
__________________
2011 BMS KING COBRA 150 Sold
YERF DOG SPIDERBOX's Sold
YERF DOG 3203's. Sold
MANCO SILVER FOX. Sold
2009 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2002 POLARIS 500 HO SPORTSMAN 4X4
2000 POLARIS MAGNUM 2X4
HALF A DOZEN CHEVY 4X4's
NEED-MO-BUGGY
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:01 PM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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.......the saga continues. Stopped into local kart shop. Handed me a bronze bushing that fits perfect.
The ones I purchased off amazon were listed as 3/4" bronze bushing for go karts. I guess not.
Live and learn...
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:51 PM
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clean up the sides of the driver as well, all that old glaze/buildup is not good for a new belt. DK how i missed this thread, i just went through my daughter's comet 30 series yesterday getting it ready for the coming weekend.

As all the others said, bearing free floats and is narrower than the distance between the two sheaves. also inspect around the rivets that hold the center to the sheave. they can crack at the rivets, pretty much game over for the sheave then.

The driven isn't as hard to deal with as it may seem, there's a good you tube video that's been around for years showing how to dismantle it safely with the spring pressure and get it back together fairly easily. just make sure the spring end is in the correct hole during reassembly.
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  #17  
Old 07-11-2015, 11:56 PM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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Oh wow. Everything looked in order to me but I just realized I'm missing 3 buttons. What are the chances I'm missing 1 button from each pair? All on the same sides.
Thanks for the tip. I just orderered new ones and a spring.
Perhaps this will improve performance? I'm really learning alot. Thanks guys
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  #18  
Old 07-12-2015, 02:50 AM
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I have a 1" shaft and Driver from the 70's and it does not use a brass bushing.
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Old 07-12-2015, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjlwolf View Post
I got it! Its a 1" shaft so apparently it doesnt use a bushing. I just assumed it did since obviously it had one on it when i picked it up. I guess they guy before me thought it did too and somehow rigged one. Probably why it split. He mad ehis own and forced it.

Anyway.... thanks for trying to help me.
true.
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  #20  
Old 07-16-2015, 12:09 AM
Tjlwolf Tjlwolf is offline
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Ok I ordered 6 new of the buttons for the driven wheel. I destroyed 3 of them. There is no way in hell to get them in.
I had to put the other three to a Sander to get them in. The guy I watched in the video just tapped them in.
Ridiculous
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